Off-Topic Thread...

HOLY HELL pink floyd is playing ONE reunion show in london england but theyre only selling tickets to people in the UK, WTF i wanna see pink floyd soooo bad

In a 57 hour space of time I spent 45 hours on the road and drove 2464 miles from Detroit, Michigan to Pacific, Washington in a F450 turbo diesel.

I also have my engine and heads back from the shop finally.

Pictures to follow.

Can't wait until you have that write-up ready, Jason.


SHIT! What's up with all the pop-ups on AF lately?

In a 57 hour space of time I spent 45 hours on the road and drove 2464 miles from Detroit, Michigan to Pacific, Washington in a F450 turbo diesel.

I also have my engine and heads back from the shop finally.

Pictures to follow.

:lol:

awesome...pics i will be awaiting.

Can't wait until you have that write-up ready, Jason.


SHIT! What's up with all the pop-ups on AF lately?

ill try to get it done...i ahve the write-up for pulling he engine and trans done. but i want to take some pictures to go along with it...

its not gonna be very detailed...just a good guideline on where to start. i figure people can just PM me if they have detailed questions.

Michael Jackson: Not Guilty!

Goes to show you: If you got money and you're rich and famous... you can molest little kids and get away with it.

Bah!

george, you should try getting the google taskbar or switching away from IE to something like firefox. there's a built in popup blocker on both of em and they both work pretty damn well....

yep mj not guilty... now him and mcauley caulkin (sp is way off) are going back to neverland ranch to have a powow.... of course after he gets 1 or 2 new noses to celebrate.

http://www.baitcar.com/

fucking awesome

yes, the google toolbar with the pop-up blocker is awesome, then i also have mcafee pop-up blocker, so i hardly ever get pop-ups.

http://img148.echo.cx/img148/1782/totrav5eh.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

btw jared that's a sweet pic of the Z.... me likey!

http://www.baitcar.com/

fucking awesome


Crazy...

http://img148.echo.cx/img148/1782/totrav5eh.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

btw jared that's a sweet pic of the Z.... me likey!

Where'd you get that pic? Nice! Looks like a straight six with ITB's??? More info PLEASE!

my cousin sent it to me, said he saw it at some car show in edmonton.... he's not into the imports but he knows i'm crazy about the z's so he snapped a pic and kept walking

Crazy...



Where'd you get that pic? Nice! Looks like a straight six with ITB's??? More info PLEASE!

it looks like a V-6 with ITB's

What-up, Dawg? How's the GTO?

its better then ever right now, just got a whole lot of stuff fixed.
been getting into a few fights lately too, if you ever come to the street racing forum anymore you would know :p

Crazy...



Where'd you get that pic? Nice! Looks like a straight six with ITB's??? More info PLEASE!

You talking about this car? It's a 300ZX GT2.

http://img36.echo.cx/img36/2111/gt2a8mn.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

Description NISSAN 300ZX Race Car. Design Products full tube chassis. This chassis was entirely jig built of .095 wall DOM tubing. For a superior stiffness-to-weight, it uses proper princples of triangulation in its design and construction. It has computer designed coil over suspension on all four corners, with unequal length A-arm front suspension and three link with bottom mount watts link rear suspension. All critical suspension pick-up points and important chassis members are located within the chassis to minimize damage in the event of a crash. The car has been completely disassembled and inspected. Every part was either rebuilt or replaced. All parts were powder coated or ceramic coated. The body was repainted with Endura epoxy paint. The Rebello engine has only one race lap from the 2001 Runoffs. The Jerico 5-speed is two races old and the differential has just been rebuilt including a new DPI limited slip center section. History

This tube chassis was built in 1997 by Design Products in California. The body was built by Willox Motorsports in Canada. The car raced mainly in western Canada in 1998,1999,2000. For the 2001 season it competed at Phoenix, Thunderhill, Laguna Seca, Vancouver Indy, Calgary and at the 2001 Runoffs at Mid Ohio. Since that time it has gone through a complete restoration and has not been raced since. Performance Data

Class: GT2 Weight: 1950 lbsEngine

Engine Builder: Rebello Racing Engines Manufacturer: NISSAN Type: L-28 Displacement: 2800 cc Horsepower: 325 Induction: Triple 47mm SK Racing Carburetors Heads: NISSAN E88 Ported, Polished, and Flowed by Rebello Racing Engines Block: Turbo block Crankshaft: Race Prepped by Rebello Connecting Rods: Carrillo Pistons: J&E Camshaft: NISSAN Motorsports Valves: Stainless 1.78 Clutch: Quarter Master Pro Series 5.5 Pressure Plate: Quarter Master 5.5 Flywheel: Quarter Master 5.5 Total Time: 2 hours dyno Races: 1 RACE LAP Ceramic coated exhaust system including mufflerFuel System

Fuel Cell Manufacturer: Fuel Safe Capacity: 22 gallons Fuel Pump: Twin Holley pumps Fuel Type: VP C-12Oil/Water System

Radiator: Griffen aluminium radiator Water Rad Location: Peterson 4 gallon aluminium tank Oil Cooler: 25 row Setrap oil cooler Oil Cooler Location: Aviaid 3 stage dry sump pumpElectrical System

Ignition: Electromotive HPV Ignition System Alternator: Small Nippondenso 55 amp Battery: Small 13 lb battery Computer: Auto-Rod ControlsTransmission

Manfacturer: Jerico Type: Road Race 5-Speed Shifter: Mid Valley Engineering Trans Cooler: Oil cooler with Tilton Pump Races: 2 racesRear End

Manufacturer: Speedway Engineering Super Max Quick Change Type: Limited Slip Cooler: Setrap oil cooler with Tilton Pump Ratio: 4.11 Case: Aluminium Differential: DPI Black Gold Axles: Speedway Engineering hollow tube Races: just rebuildBody

Construction: Steel roof and windshield pillars, everything else is fiberglass Color: Red Paint: Endura Two Part Epoxy Condition: Perfect - just been redoneChassis

Type: Full Tube Chassis Builder: Design Products Material: .095 DOM Tubing Finish: Powder Coated Condition: Like new Front Suspension: unequal length A-arm, powdercoated, like new Rear Suspension: three link bottom watts link rear suspension, like new Shocks: Koni 3012 Long Body with Ebach springs Brakes: New Wilwood Superlite III Steering: Coleman aluminium R&P Wheels: Taylor Made 16 Tires: GoodyearInterior

Color/Finish: Powder coated silver panes with black texured dash Material: aluminium panels Fire System: Fire Bottle - 10 lb, 3 outlets Restraints: Kirkey aluminium seat with Guages: Autometer Ultra-Lite guages Steering Wheel: Momo Model 31 Condition: newSpares

8 spare 16 3-piece aluminium wheels extra gear ratios large supply of good tires various misc items

i'll be damned, thanks al

Ask and yee shall recieve....

that car was for sale a while back... posted a link to it about a couple months ago. i think they wanted just under $30k for it.

my cousin sent it to me, said he saw it at some car show in edmonton.... he's not into the imports but he knows i'm crazy about the z's so he snapped a pic and kept walking

Nice...


its better then ever right now, just got a whole lot of stuff fixed.
been getting into a few fights lately too, if you ever come to the street racing forum anymore you would know :p

I'll have to stop by and check out what you been up to... I barely starting showing up here as a regular again... I got your back in any fight, yo!


You talking about this car? It's a 300ZX GT2.

http://img36.echo.cx/img36/2111/gt2a8mn.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

Description NISSAN 300ZX Race Car. Design Products full tube chassis. This chassis was entirely jig built of .095 wall DOM tubing. For a superior stiffness-to-weight, it uses proper princples of triangulation in its design and construction. It has computer designed coil over suspension on all four corners, with unequal length A-arm front suspension and three link with bottom mount watts link rear suspension. All critical suspension pick-up points and important chassis members are located within the chassis to minimize damage in the event of a crash. The car has been completely disassembled and inspected. Every part was either rebuilt or replaced. All parts were powder coated or ceramic coated. The body was repainted with Endura epoxy paint. The Rebello engine has only one race lap from the 2001 Runoffs. The Jerico 5-speed is two races old and the differential has just been rebuilt including a new DPI limited slip center section. History

This tube chassis was built in 1997 by Design Products in California. The body was built by Willox Motorsports in Canada. The car raced mainly in western Canada in 1998,1999,2000. For the 2001 season it competed at Phoenix, Thunderhill, Laguna Seca, Vancouver Indy, Calgary and at the 2001 Runoffs at Mid Ohio. Since that time it has gone through a complete restoration and has not been raced since. Performance Data

Class: GT2 Weight: 1950 lbsEngine

Engine Builder: Rebello Racing Engines Manufacturer: NISSAN Type: L-28 Displacement: 2800 cc Horsepower: 325 Induction: Triple 47mm SK Racing Carburetors Heads: NISSAN E88 Ported, Polished, and Flowed by Rebello Racing Engines Block: Turbo block Crankshaft: Race Prepped by Rebello Connecting Rods: Carrillo Pistons: J&E Camshaft: NISSAN Motorsports Valves: Stainless 1.78 Clutch: Quarter Master Pro Series 5.5 Pressure Plate: Quarter Master 5.5 Flywheel: Quarter Master 5.5 Total Time: 2 hours dyno Races: 1 RACE LAP Ceramic coated exhaust system including mufflerFuel System

Fuel Cell Manufacturer: Fuel Safe Capacity: 22 gallons Fuel Pump: Twin Holley pumps Fuel Type: VP C-12Oil/Water System

Radiator: Griffen aluminium radiator Water Rad Location: Peterson 4 gallon aluminium tank Oil Cooler: 25 row Setrap oil cooler Oil Cooler Location: Aviaid 3 stage dry sump pumpElectrical System

Ignition: Electromotive HPV Ignition System Alternator: Small Nippondenso 55 amp Battery: Small 13 lb battery Computer: Auto-Rod ControlsTransmission

Manfacturer: Jerico Type: Road Race 5-Speed Shifter: Mid Valley Engineering Trans Cooler: Oil cooler with Tilton Pump Races: 2 racesRear End

Manufacturer: Speedway Engineering Super Max Quick Change Type: Limited Slip Cooler: Setrap oil cooler with Tilton Pump Ratio: 4.11 Case: Aluminium Differential: DPI Black Gold Axles: Speedway Engineering hollow tube Races: just rebuildBody

Construction: Steel roof and windshield pillars, everything else is fiberglass Color: Red Paint: Endura Two Part Epoxy Condition: Perfect - just been redoneChassis

Type: Full Tube Chassis Builder: Design Products Material: .095 DOM Tubing Finish: Powder Coated Condition: Like new Front Suspension: unequal length A-arm, powdercoated, like new Rear Suspension: three link bottom watts link rear suspension, like new Shocks: Koni 3012 Long Body with Ebach springs Brakes: New Wilwood Superlite III Steering: Coleman aluminium R&P Wheels: Taylor Made 16 Tires: GoodyearInterior

Color/Finish: Powder coated silver panes with black texured dash Material: aluminium panels Fire System: Fire Bottle - 10 lb, 3 outlets Restraints: Kirkey aluminium seat with Guages: Autometer Ultra-Lite guages Steering Wheel: Momo Model 31 Condition: newSpares

8 spare 16 3-piece aluminium wheels extra gear ratios large supply of good tires various misc items


Thanks, Ol'Timer...



that car was for sale a while back... posted a link to it about a couple months ago. i think they wanted just under $30k for it.

Is that the one? Who owns it now I wonder...

Is that the one? Who owns it now I wonder...

yeah thats the same one...i dont know, maybe he didnt even sell it...its ready for race. i cant find or remember the site i found it at but i do remember it was for sale. all the pictures of it were taken at the track...complete, ready-to-go race car. :naughty:

but who would want to buy a ready-to-go racecar? if i was to race a car, i would want to build it up myself. but i guess thats just me.

but who would want to buy a ready-to-go racecar? if i was to race a car, i would want to build it up myself. but i guess thats just me.

nah...i would like to build my own but most people done know the money and work it takes to build a "race car"...if i had the money and wanted to race, id rather buy a race car but ill always buil my street/weekend racers.

ok guys...i am trying to pick the guages i want. im looking at a set of autometers...if you guys were to choose 3 guages you guys wanted, what would they be...assuming one HAS to be a boost/vacuum guage.

how vital is a air/fuel ratio guage? they arent really accurate, i wont be able to do nothing about it even if i wanted to change it, atleast for a while, beings the ECU will be doing the work for a long time to come...

this is my list...as of right now but it will change if someone could give me better ideas and explain why.

1. boost guage
2. oil temperature or water temperature (i figure the stock water temp guage will be fine to tell me when to shut it down or take it easy if it starts rising)
3. pyrometer or air/fuel or intake air temp (if i can find one or rig a different guage to work)

i think an air temp guage would be a good idea to know what the temperature of the air is that is coming into my engine after it has been through the coolers to give me a general idea of what boost i can run...you guys know what i mean. :D

all in one

http://i20.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/0f/ae/42_1_b.JPG

all in one

http://i20.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/0f/ae/42_1_b.JPG

thats gay...that would be the last thing i would want sitting on top of my dash. :nono:

im getting a tri-pod and a shift light later on down the road...and trust me, the shift light will be tucked under the dash somehow.

EDI: well, i just did some searching around...autometer does make an intake temperature guage but the complete kit is $220. WTF?!?! this is compared to a $50 water temperature guage of the same series and brand...

i wonder if could buy a guage and rig up a water temp hardware kit to it...i think i would find this guage the most useful but $220???

but who would want to buy a ready-to-go racecar? if i was to race a car, i would want to build it up myself. but i guess thats just me.

90% of those that start racing start with a car that's ready-to-go racecar. Why? Cause you can get one for 1/2 or less than it costs to build.
Myself that's the way I'd go, but my sponsers have a different idea and being they foot the bill, we build what's required to fit there needs.
To build a car to be competitive in any class requires much knowledge, time and money.

For a Pro Modified car it costs $100,000+. A Funny or AA/F dragster, $250,000. And that is just for the car, not counting the support parts, team, equipment or expenses just getting to the race.
For a Funny or AA/F car to be in the top 20, you'll see in the area of $1,000,000+, and for a Pro Modified, about half of that.

Jason: AF gauges are worthless... just buy an SAFC-II... plus thy have knock sensors and kinds of cool stuff...

what you need:

1. Boost gauge (duh)
2. Oil Temp
3. Water Temp. (it's better to have an accurate reading IMO especially on a TT... stock gauge isn't up to it.

Those are the three I would start with... but you may find in time you want: Oil Temp., Exhaust Temp., Voltameter, Nitrous Press (if you go that route), etc...........

Does this look familliar? The owner, Ralph lives in Canada.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t318777.html

Why would anyone want gages? To be rice? If your serious this is the only way to go, plus it well read error codes. All you need is a laptop, connectors, program is free and a emulator. Then you can change your A/F, Boost, Speed limit or RPM's as desired.

http://img85.echo.cx/img85/2117/computer16bk.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

http://img85.echo.cx/img85/6254/computer21nc.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

Remember this one? What is it?

http://img156.echo.cx/img156/1571/280zgp1py.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

It's a 280Z GP, and the only left in the world. Value? $$$$$$$ It was one of the fastest cars Nissan ever made. Also the most expensive.

Why would anyone want gages? To be rice? If your serious this is the only way to go, plus it well read error codes. All you need is a laptop, connectors, program is free and a emulator. Then you can change your A/F, Boost, Speed limit or RPM's as desired.


i dont know Al, i am getting that later down the road but i dont want to have to look down at a laptop to see what is going on. plus, i want to be able to remove my laptop and still see what is going on.

so you think i should go with the boost, water temp, and oil temp...

but as long as the stock water temp gauge works, as soon as i start to see it moving up i will know something is wrong, right??? i think it would be virtually the same thing as an aftermarket. its not like im running a completely built engine or anything...

id love to have the air intake temp gauge, oil temp, and boost...or would a pyrometer or oil pressure gauge be more beneficial than an intake temp??? would an aftermarket oil pressure gauge be beneficial to me, yet???

but then again, the air intake temp gauge is friggin expensive...

1. boost
2. oil temp
3. air intake temp, pyrometer, oil press, oil temp, volts???

Can I smack you, Jason?

OMG, I have missed you guys!! This thread has had me laughing my ass off! I'm back, and hope to stick around for a good long while.

As always, I'm working on a car. This time it's an '83 Ford Crown Victoria that my boss just bought for $150. Also true to form, I'm stumped by a weird problem it seems to be having. Would you guys be able to help me? You know I think of you as Z Gurus (or Gods -- yes, I AM unworthy :worshippy), but I'll understand if you want me to go to the other forum for this. Has to do with weird overheating....

-Gigi :confused:

Can I smack you, Jason?
no you may not!!! come on...a water temp guage isnt necessary, yet. the stock gauge is accurate enough for me...if it goes up i need to ease it off a little and let it cool. where do you want me to put all these gauges gerogy???

OMG, I have missed you guys!! This thread has had me laughing my ass off! I'm back, and hope to stick around for a good long while.

As always, I'm working on a car. This time it's an '83 Ford Crown Victoria that my boss just bought for $150. Also true to form, I'm stumped by a weird problem it seems to be having. Would you guys be able to help me? You know I think of you as Z Gurus (or Gods -- yes, I AM unworthy :worshippy), but I'll understand if you want me to go to the other forum for this. Has to do with weird overheating....

-Gigi :confused:

ask away..hopefully we can help you. :D

Thanks, darlin'.

Background: got the car 2 weeks ago at auction; only needs minor cosmetic repairs; no leaks, smoking, etc.; runs smooth as silk and fast as s**t; great gas mileage, even. No gauges, just idiot lights.

Problem: This week the engine light started frying my eyes and it seemed to be overheating -- you know, water shooting out the reservoir and stuff. So today I ran it for about an hour in my driveway without the radiator cap on to see if maybe there just wasn't enough water in the system or something and the light never came on -- as a matter of fact, the hoses never got hot at all to the touch. As soon as I got on the road, however -- like a mile -- there's that damned light at every red light. Seemed to come on as soon as my RPMs came down. Got to my destination (about 5 miles) and checked under the hood. Hot, alright, but not overheating quite yet.

At the risk of sounding dumb (duh is definitely in my vocabulary): Could it be the cap?

-G

Thanks, darlin'.

Background: got the car 2 weeks ago at auction; only needs minor cosmetic repairs; no leaks, smoking, etc.; runs smooth as silk and fast as s**t; great gas mileage, even. No gauges, just idiot lights.

Problem: This week the engine light started frying my eyes and it seemed to be overheating -- you know, water shooting out the reservoir and stuff. So today I ran it for about an hour in my driveway without the radiator cap on to see if maybe there just wasn't enough water in the system or something and the light never came on -- as a matter of fact, the hoses never got hot at all to the touch. As soon as I got on the road, however -- like a mile -- there's that damned light at every red light. Seemed to come on as soon as my RPMs came down. Got to my destination (about 5 miles) and checked under the hood. Hot, alright, but not overheating quite yet.

At the risk of sounding dumb (duh is definitely in my vocabulary): Could it be the cap?
-G
yes, it could be the cap...i would change that first beings it is REALLY cheap. also, it sounds like i could be the water pump. beings it does it at idle, you could have a belt slipping or the pump isnt working properly at idle. just like an alterator, if the pump isnt working properly at lower RPMs it will not pump the coolant through the system. just some ideas...

could be a blockage in the coolant lines somewhere, or a big air bubble trapped in the engine or something... sounds like it's not getting coolant circulated very well at all, but definitely try replacing the cap... if that doesn't work, maybe do a complete flush, and if that doesn't work, replace the water pump... just tryin to save some cash. if it's not the water pump, then that could be a lot of money down the hole... then again it's always good to have new parts if you can afford it :)

k3, honestly i don't think i would ever run a modified turbocharged car without a wideband o2 meter and a/f guage... i think if everything is set up correctly, it can be accurate enough to be used for emergency purposes... and you can tell if it's really leaning out under heavy boost/acceleration. aem makes one of the better kits out there, but i have no idea if they make one for the 300zx, as they're geared more towards the honda spectrum for mainstream products. like i said, if it were me i'd have boost/af/ whatever else you need, oil temp perhaps... but with an aftermarket oil cooler, you shouldn't have anything really to worry about on that side of things. voltmeters are always nice to have, but not really necessary... oil pressure is good too, but as long as the stock one works well it shouldn't be a problem.. as the only thing you really need it for is to see if it's too high too low or bottoming out. i dunno man, i think it's just personal preference.

btw good to see you back bettie

k3, honestly i don't think i would ever run a modified turbocharged car without a wideband o2 meter and a/f guage... i think if everything is set up correctly, it can be accurate enough to be used for emergency purposes... and you can tell if it's really leaning out under heavy boost/acceleration. aem makes one of the better kits out there, but i have no idea if they make one for the 300zx, as they're geared more towards the honda spectrum for mainstream products. like i said, if it were me i'd have boost/af/ whatever else you need, oil temp perhaps... but with an aftermarket oil cooler, you shouldn't have anything really to worry about on that side of things. voltmeters are always nice to have, but not really necessary... oil pressure is good too, but as long as the stock one works well it shouldn't be a problem.. as the only thing you really need it for is to see if it's too high too low or bottoming out. i dunno man, i think it's just personal preference.

btw good to see you back bettie

well i was gonna go to a wide band set-up when i start modifying it more...at this point, all i have done is bolt-ons...when i start getting into it serious i will be ordering the stand-alone Z1 wideband kit which comes with its own monitoring system so a guage would be just about pointless. but an air-fuel guage would be cheap and easy to install. :lol:

im thinking...
1. boost/vacuum
2. oil temp
3. ??? i dont know yet.

BTW: voltmeters i find filler gauges.. if you have an open spot and nothing else to put in. i dont have a massive stereo or anything so it would kind of be a waste of time. autometer offers a clock..whats wrong with a watch?? :eek7:

Get a wiper fluid level gauge.

Get a wiper fluid level gauge.

:lol: im on it...thats the perfect gauge.

But whatever you do don't label it, just laugh as people try to figure out what the **** it's for.

But whatever you do don't label it, just laugh as people try to figure out what the **** it's for.

:lol: i could use it a fuel level gauge to accurately measure the level...:rolleyes:

so what have you been up to Broke??? work on the car anymore???

oh, and when you order your boost guage, you have to take it apart, scratch out the word "boost" and write in with a sharpie "bling" with a few $ signs following.... that's the ultimate pimps guage....

http://jaeger.morpheus.net/images/humor/tn/bling_guage.jpg
that one's a fuel guage, but you get the idea

oh, and when you order your boost guage, you have to take it apart, scratch out the word "boost" and write in with a sharpie "bling" with a few $ signs following.... that's the ultimate pimps guage....

http://jaeger.morpheus.net/images/humor/tn/bling_guage.jpg
that one's a fuel guage, but you get the idea

:lol: you guys are ridiculous...did someone actually do that???

Apparently.

No, haven't done anything to the engine since yesterday. Just getting together all the parts I'll need to assemble the long block this weekend. Don't have too much time to work on it during the week.

Apparently.

No, haven't done anything to the engine since yesterday. Just getting together all the parts I'll need to assemble the long block this weekend. Don't have too much time to work on it during the week.

yeah i find that to be my biggest problem...i can only work on my car during weekends and this week of vacation really got in the way. but oh well...

Thanks, K3, Delerious. Going to my favorite hangout, the 24-hour AutoZone, and pick up a new cap...maybe I'll pick up a wiper fluid level gauge while I'm at it... :p

-G

1996 17,691 miles on it one owner twin turbo i wish i had the loot to take this treasure off his hands..
http://images.prosperpoint.com/images/2139/107969-64884.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4555352602&category=6398

minty.... i'd rather have a 95 tho.. i've seen some mods that require an extra core charge for the 96 for some reason.. that and the less hp myths... that and it's easier to figure out how old the car is... nice even numbers :)

maybe I'll pick up a wiper fluid level gauge while I'm at it... :p

Just make sure you get the one with the flux capacitor in it.

Is there any other kind?

minty.... i'd rather have a 95 tho.. i've seen some mods that require an extra core charge for the 96 for some reason.. that and the less hp myths... that and it's easier to figure out how old the car is... nice even numbers :)

its the damn OBDII...it ruins everything. if you are gonna tune it, the newest you want is a 95.

but there is only 500 '96TT's

Is there any other kind?

Yes, the older versions come with a pudding core.

but there is only 500 '96TT's

Maybe it's just me but personally there is only one Z I care about anyway, the one in my garage. So many of that and this many of those is not something I regard highly. Yeah it's kind of cool that you don't see many green Zs with black leather like mine but I like it because I think it looks good not because its rare. I'm not trying to flame or anything here, just thought I might air an opinion.

but there is only 500 '96TT's

yeah, more reason for me to say...if your gonna tune one, get a pre-96. if you want a collector's item then you may want to consider a 96...me i could never own a Z32TT and not modify it. but hey, if you want to take the harder route and try modifying a 96, be my guest.

speaking of Z's...a guy staying down the street owns a very nice mint condition pearl white N/A 2 seater. i snappe a couple pics on my search for more hot beach hunnies. :naughty:
http://img223.echo.cx/img223/6181/picture0116is.th.jpg (http://img223.echo.cx/my.php?image=picture0116is.jpg)
http://img223.echo.cx/img223/9034/picture0127kt.th.jpg (http://img223.echo.cx/my.php?image=picture0127kt.jpg)

what about the porsche you were going to get a pic of?

what about the porsche you were going to get a pic of?

i havent seen the guys garage open yet...trust me, i have been waiting for him to open the garage so i could get another glimpse of it myself. :D

should run up to it and start trying to have sex with it... that would be a good story to tell your grandchildren

should run up to it and start trying to have sex with it... that would be a good story to tell your grandchildren

nah, i dont want to rot in the manatee count jail, id rather rot in my hometown jail...it just wouldnt be right not being at home in jail. :lol:

no you may not!!! come on...a water temp guage isnt necessary, yet. the stock gauge is accurate enough for me...if it goes up i need to ease it off a little and let it cool. where do you want me to put all these gauges gerogy???


Up your ARSE!!!! LoL

Their are tons of places to put gauges... the dash, steering colum, DIN, A-Pod... do you want me to draw you a diagram?