Seriously OT: Whoring Galore here in Part 4!

Some more information on the J-series engines:


Taken from Wiki:


The J35 displaced 3.5 L (3471 cc) and is an SOHC (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SOHC) VTEC (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VTEC) design. Bore is 89 mm (3.5 in) and stroke is 93 mm (3.7 in). Output was 210 hp (157 kW) for the J35A1, 265 hp (198 kW) and 253 ft·lbf (343 N·m) for the J35A3, and 240 hp (178.97 kW) @ 5500 rpm and 242 ft·lbf (327.74 Nm) @ 4500 rpm for the J35A4.


The new J35 used in the Acura RL (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acura_RL) produces 290 hp (224 kW) at 6200 rpm and 256 ft·lbf (347 N·m) at 5000 rpm. This engine was on the Ward's 10 Best Engines (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ward%27s_10_Best_Engines) list for 2005 and 2008.


The J35A9 used in the 2006 - 2008 Honda Ridgeline (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_Ridgeline) produces 247 hp (184 kW) at 5750 rpm and 245 ft·lbf (332 N·m) at 4500 rpm.


The J35 was also used by General Motors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_Corporation) in the 2004-2007 Saturn Vue (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturn_Vue), though GM refers to it as the L66 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_L66_engine).

^^^ Who knew it? ^^^ (Go figure... now we can laugh at everyone that says "GM is better than Honda"... It's about time GM got the hint... Score one for us.)

What we do here for projects.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb190/Sokool101/100_2351.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/tigermack/IMG_4234.jpg

Making a replacement for these top hats to be used with tein flat springs (2.75" ID) and the kmac camber/caster plates (damn McPherson strut)

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb190/Sokool101/100_2352.jpg

I also noticed in my search for information that Honda Skipped "I"...
A = 4 Cyl engine, I config, 1.6-2.0 variants
B = 4 Cyl engine, I config, 1.6-2.0 variants
C = 6 Cyl engine, V config, 2.0-3.5 variants, including turbo model.
D = Obviously... 4 cyl engine, I config, 1.2 to 1.7 variants
E = Some renamed to D-series, 3 or 4 cylinder, I config, 1.0 to 1.8 variants
F = 4 Cyl engine, I config, 1.8-2.3 variants
G = 5 Cyl engine, I config, 2.0-2.5 variants
H = 4 Cyl engine, I config, 2.2-2.3 variants
I = What the fuck happened? Forget the alphabet?
J = Back to engines... 6 Cyl engine, V config, first to introduce VCM, 2.5-3.7 variants
K = 4 Cyl engine, I config, 2.0-2.4 variants, including turbo model.Then again, thinking about it, there is also an "L", "R", and "N"... so maybe they didn't really care about following the alphabet...

I wish I had the kind of money it takes to get that equipment and the space to use it... I can make a rotary lathe, that's easy as hell... but I'd have no place to use it...

Think of the things I could make with even a modestly equipped fab/machine shop...

What are the blue aluminum thingys on the computer desk?

Those are the camber plates, they slide around and allow you to adjust camber/caster at the top of the strut, since the car doesnt have an upper arm. Inside the plates are pillow balls, and below them the red poly things ride, which is what were replacing in favor of the aluminum pieces that just got lathed.

Heres a finisher from tonight. What use to be two pieces is now one solid piece of aluminum as well.

http://s206.photobucket.com/albums/bb190/Sokool101/Kmactophat/

What car is it going on? You say it doesn't have a upper arm... and it has MacPhersons... so it's not a Honda, I assume.

Mazda 3.

...
The J35 was also used by General Motors (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Motors_Corporation) in the 2004-2007 Saturn Vue (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturn_Vue), though GM refers to it as the L66 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_L66_engine).

^^^ Who knew it? ^^^ (Go figure... now we can laugh at everyone that says "GM is better than Honda"... It's about time GM got the hint... Score one for us.)

Yup, it was from their "Red Line" version, if I remember correctly.

Yep... kinda makes me wonder if the Ion Redline had like a B18 or something in it lol.

Ok, all this talk about the J series engine gave me another idea for my 1g CRX when I get done with school.

I don't want whatever I do to the car to be easy, I want to use the car as a showcase for what I should have learned at school. I have cooked up several ideas from installing a 13b rotary/transmission and rear end, or a F20 combo, or just building a 12:1 CR D16Z6 and installing it in the rear to make the car MR....now the new idea is a J series in the back to make it MR. I have seen a 3g Civic Hatch done this way, so it wouldn't be a first really.

But I was thinking originally to get something in there with a ton of horsepower, easy to mod, do a custom suspension setup and go drift the thing....but then I run into the Short wheelbase problem. A J engine in the rear would still make more than enough power to get the car sideways, but with the right setup engine and suspension wise, the car should be able to handle road course action or auto-x action with whatever class it gets stuck in. Because when I finally do build it and get done with it, I do plan on putting it to use.

On the ultimate street car challenge a guy did it to an integra. Ill find the article.

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/981613

Ok, all this talk about the J series engine gave me another idea for my 1g CRX when I get done with school.

I don't want whatever I do to the car to be easy, I want to use the car as a showcase for what I should have learned at school. I have cooked up several ideas from installing a 13b rotary/transmission and rear end, or a F20 combo, or just building a 12:1 CR D16Z6 and installing it in the rear to make the car MR....now the new idea is a J series in the back to make it MR. I have seen a 3g Civic Hatch done this way, so it wouldn't be a first really.

But I was thinking originally to get something in there with a ton of horsepower, easy to mod, do a custom suspension setup and go drift the thing....but then I run into the Short wheelbase problem. A J engine in the rear would still make more than enough power to get the car sideways, but with the right setup engine and suspension wise, the car should be able to handle road course action or auto-x action with whatever class it gets stuck in. Because when I finally do build it and get done with it, I do plan on putting it to use.
What about a K20A block, F20C crank & pistons, and H22A rods; for an MR setup? :naughty:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22125

This has been irritating the hell out of me for a long time now. I still have no front sway bar because I am missing one of the body mounts for it. The car is a std and never had one, but I pulled the front sway off a DA and noticed that although it fits in the bracket for the civic just fine, the brackets for the integra are different, using two bolts instead of a bolt and a slotted tab.

I only have one civic mount, got it from a car in the junkyard but the other side was buried in sand and I didnt have time to dig under the car.

I'll check around... if I find anything, just pay shipping, you'll get it.

Awesome.

What about a K20A block, F20C crank & pistons, and H22A rods; for an MR setup? :naughty:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22125

A K swap MR was an option too, because by the time I finally get to this build, the price on a K should have dropped down quite a bit. Any way around it, the car is going to end up rear wheel drive, with either an engine up front or in the back. And I'm not building it with any rules set on it. The Suspension all around is going to change, don't know what to yet, I will decide when the time comes, and I might end up converting all the hubs to a single lug nut design :)

I've thought several times about the single lugnut thing... I'm still working on feasible ways to do it w/o spending an assload of money and making it out of reach for the average enthusiast.

I've thought several times about the single lugnut thing... I'm still working on feasible ways to do it w/o spending an assload of money and making it out of reach for the average enthusiast.

whats the benefit of a single lug nut over 4?

The obvious reason: quicker to change a wheel when you only have to remove/install one lug nut over 4.

A single lugnut is installed in a reverse fashion... the driver's side lugnuts are installed using a standard thread, so that when the tires are spinning forward, the lugnut can "lock" itself tight, while the passenger side is installed using a "bastard" or reverse thread, for the same reason. the lugnuts always turn toward the back of the car, so they "lock" while the wheels spin forward.

Also, it helps to reduce the inertia of the wheel/hub assembly, by putting the moment of force closer to the centerline, thus reducing the centripetal forces acting on the wheel.

Essentially, it will make your car both marginally safer, and marginally faster.

Oh... and it would be uber-fuckin' pimpin... duh.

I vote uber fuckin pimp mostly.. :P

oh and... I HAVE A FUCKING TACH!!!!!!!!

Tonight I picked up an SI cluster, door panels, rear seats, and CARGO COVER all in mint condition, all for 80 bucks, all from the same car as my front seats.

I cant wait till tomorrow to put them in. I put the cluster in there to make sure it worked and about cried when it jumped up and moved so smoothly. Also it so nice that now when I notice a spot I need to tune I know what damn rpm its at instead of "hmm about 35mph in 3rd"

I vote uber fuckin pimp mostly.. :P

oh and... I HAVE A FUCKING TACH!!!!!!!!

Tonight I picked up an SI cluster, door panels, rear seats, and CARGO COVER all in mint condition, all for 80 bucks, all from the same car as my front seats.

I cant wait till tomorrow to put them in. I put the cluster in there to make sure it worked and about cried when it jumped up and moved so smoothly. Also it so nice that now when I notice a spot I need to tune I know what damn rpm its at instead of "hmm about 35mph in 3rd"

:ylsuper:

i can dream
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s29/TurboDube/European%20cars%20other/Austin%20Mini/K-SeriesMini.jpg

That damn thing has AC!? Wow thats more than I can say for any kswapped honda lol.

Incidentally a friend of mine just 3 days ago sold his 72 austin mini, RHD in a dark blue color similar to that... was a sweet ass car.

Well I just learned the hard way: HX wheels do not clear DA brakes. Haven't taken the wheel back off, but I know there is a nice gouge on the back side of it from the shavings on the ground....might have to roll around on some POS 15" wheels I have for now, until I figure out what to do on the HX wheels.

Could always just leave them on and let the caliper lathe out what is needed, but would rather not, lol.

http://punditkitchen.files.wordpress.com/2008/10/political-pictures-joe-biden-sarah-palin-nuclear-lolz.jpg
:lol: haha I don't care if she's a Republican or a Democrat, or if she was male or female. But I swear, I will lose all faith in humanity if that woman becomes vice president. Damn you McCain!

well I will be rolling on some 15s in the front for a little while. Tried to take a grinder to the bracket on the caliper that was rubbing, but couldn't really get it down to clear the HX wheel. I have some 90-91 CRX Si wheels that clear, but they need to be stripped, painted and tires mounted before I put them on the hatch. Going to see if I can bum my friends 88-89 Si wheels until I get that done, don't want to run around with 15s on front and 14s on back for a long time....plus the 15s leak air.

Btw, anyone either have or know where I could pick up 2 beauty rings for 13" steelies? My black hatch has 2 that need cleaned up, and I'm thinking about leaving it with steelies and beauty rings just because you don't see it.....and its my gas mileage car, I don't want anything bigger than stock on it.

I got better mileage w/ 205/40ZR16's... still stock size, but more rolling weight with the wheels/tires I had.... I went to 205/55's, lost about 10 mpg... too much diameter for the gearing on too little power... 205/50's, got 9 mpg back, so I only lost avg. 1 mpg, got a smoother ride, (not that I care), and quit having to fill my tires once a week. (the 40's were garbage)

I haven't had a chance to try out 205/45's, might do that next summer, if I get around to it... and continue to care enough.

BTW, filled up today... damage was less than 26.00USD! $2.499 on the pike!

Still 2.70 every where else... I wonder what's happening?? Why is gas all of a sudden going so low, when it typically only loses $0.50 or so during the winter?

It's even appearing to be ready to crash a 40 year trend line of wavering increases... If gas goes below $2.25 a gallon, I'm going to start investing in 55 gallon drums and chemical storage lol.

http://www.nnuploads.com/files/17825_8eucp/art_hummer_large_6.jpg
http://www.nnuploads.com/files/17820_sdzye/art_hummer_large_1.jpg
http://www.nnuploads.com/files/17822_zgwyt/art_hummer_large_3.jpg
http://www.nnuploads.com/files/17823_amegp/art_hummer_large_4.jpg
http://www.nnuploads.com/files/17824_yvpoo/art_hummer_large_5.jpg

Those are some seriously low profile shiz... dizamn... dem have to be like 24's on that tyte ride!

lol.. seriously.. noone actually drives that thing under power of an engine, right? that would be astonishingly unsafe.

Maybe they're using the front tow hooks to attach a team of horses... damn pimpin amish... what will they think of next?

I read something about adding material to the tophats on our shocks... to lower the car..

What it said, was basically: You can add a 25-50mm extension into the tophat's pillow mount area, and that will lower your ride even more, and you'll have more shock travel.

I can understand that mounting your shock further up in the tophat would lower your chassis more... but how would it increase suspension travel? Unless they were comparing it to lowering on coilovers... using the stock struts. It was on HT, so most likely, they were... (original endorsers of cut springs.. lmao) This method still won't retain the OEM suspension geometry though... It's a valid way to create preload on full-length springs, and lower the car at the same time...

Honestly, for about $50 (material and welding service) if you prepped them yourself, you could lower your car on stockers w/o causing suspension damage at all... you'd get stiffer suspension than stock (even though it's still stock parts) and you'd get a lowered ride that wasn't dangerously modified (cut/torched/stressed springs, modified shocks, etc.)... all you're really doing is changing the effective length of the shock. You just cut the upper mount area off the tophat, and weld in a pipe between the flat surface and the mount area... that makes it so the mounting location is further into the tophat, which drops the suspension. Keep a spare set of tophats, you can lift the car back up with little work. (for the winter, for instance)

I have personally cut and rethreaded struts so they'd maintain a shorter ride height w/o being partially compressed all the time... using stock macpherson struts on a Ford Escort.. I lowered it 1.5" on stock suspension, which SERIOUSLY made for a stiff ride that still had decent (allbeit stock) handling characteristics.

Homebrew FTW.

I'm so pissed off right now. I did some work of a friend of a friend's car a little over a month ago; put some pedals in and did some ECU wiring on an auto to manual swap/engine swap. It's at our mutual friend's, landlord's shop (where I work on cars every month or so, for the past 3-4 years). I have yet to say anything to the kid about payment for my services, because that's the kind of person I am. I just keep my mouth shut and expect the payment in an orderly fashion, without having to bug someone to get my money. Day by day it's starting to irritate me more and more, to the point where I'm ready to speak up and lay into him about it. It's not like I'm expecting a couple hundred dollars, even though I had to take out the pedal assembly 3 times because of wrong parts (if you've ever had to do it on an Accord then you know how much of a bitch it is). So I just got a call from my friend (around 12:30am), where he mentioned that the kid picked up his car today. This is NOT how things work at the shop. If the work is done, the customer picks up the car when payment is made in FULL. Pretty damn reasonable. The car has been sitting in his parents garage for the past few years, because he apparently didn't know how to finish it himself. The kid also f'd up by previously mentioning how much he makes from his job, which is pretty damn good for living with his parents still. So this kid has enough to insure & register the car (which he hasn't cared too much about in the past 4-5 years). He also apparently has enough to pay rent, because he is now trying to move in with our mutual friend. But he doesn't have enough to pay me for the work I've done? I was going to give it another week and then take his ECU and MOMO shift knob as collateral until I get payment, but apparently that's no longer an option. I'm ready to freaking snap.

When it says increases travel it means when retaining the same height as the previous hats. Its only referring to the shock and how moving it higher in the hat will put it closer to the center top of the stroke giving you more usable travel. The spring would also have more distance to be able to travel before the shock bottomed out but we know that the upper arm will top out in the hole before the shock does.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=647/CA=5

I never do work w/o working out an estimate to begin with... It's become expected by everyone that I do work for now that they'll have to give me like $50.

Once the work is done, the vehicle sits disabled until payment is made, or a payment plan is signed. There have been times where over $500 was owed, and obviously I can't make them pay it all at once.. so we work out a plan, they agree to the amount, and the terms, and I give them their car w/ a signature... no lien req'd, since it's assumed in PA that mechanics can lien your title w/o actually putting a lien on it. It's a "agreed lien" that in this state, holds just as strong in court as anything else.

I've only ever had to pursue someone for payment once... They ended up paying for my costs, parts, labor, etc., and paying someone else to redo the work, b/c like I said, the car was disabled (ECU removed and driveshaft removed... and they came and towed it from my property w/o paying for it.

The person they took it to when it "wouldn't start" told them that I fucked the wiring harness... I never touched it, so they proceeded to "rewire" the "whole car" from scratch (this is why I love service stations) to the tune of $1500... They also replaced the brand new 6-puck carbon kevlar clutch I put in, with an OEM one, and I can only assume they sold the racing clutch... that cost the person another $400. They replaced the brand new urethane bushing kit, saying they were "installed incorrectly" with OEM bushings... to the tune of $300 or so... Then, they went about "fixing" all the "random little things" that were leftover or incorrect about the car, which I apparently was also responsible for.

Jeez, it's too bad I take pics of every car I touch, before, during, and after... Imagine that.

Judge didn't even barely let them talk, got them for theft of a lien holder's collateral property, and trespassing. They had to pay me the lien amount, the amount I charged originally, and they still ended up losing all those parts and paying someone else to do work that didn't need done. (I never touched the wiring harness, it was OEM, and the car was only 3 years old)

So, I made out good on that one... they finally paid me the $400 I wanted, I gave them back their driveshaft and ECU (the driveshaft, by that point, was a spare... the ECU had never been put back in the car, the "garage" they took it to could never figure out why it wouldn't start, even after "rewiring the car from scratch, like they HAD to do... lmao).

Awesome... $238+tax/shipping for something I could make for like... $50 or so.

They are sold as a pair.

Frodo is correct on the shock travel. And there is no way to lengthen the shock travel by messing with the underside of the top hat....not with lowering the car also. Anything you do to the bottom side of the tophat will raise the car up and give more shock travel.

There are 2 ways to lower and retain shock travel: Modifying the top side of the top hat like mentioned, and modifying the bottom mount point in the fork, raising it up the shock body. I'm not a big fan of modifying the tophat because that is just asking for a hole in the hood IMO...considering the stock shocks can put some nice indents in the hood sometimes.

I kept breaking pillow mounts in my '85... and I ended up with shock holes in my hood on both sides... it was lowered way too much, and when I hit bumps, it would tear a brand new pillow mount out and push the shock up through the top hat. I ended up fixing this with some 35mm fender washers.. remove the shock from the tophat, put a washer underneath the tophat, put shock back through, put washer on top, bolt back in place.

essentially, no more "pillow mount" now it's more like "rock hard mother fucker" mount. But I never noticed a difference in the actual ride quality.

Pillow mounts are all but useless on our cars, forreal. Our shocks dont pivot or rotate, so the need for that damn mount is nil. If you want it stiffer use energy poly bushings, cheaper and safer.

Now for a McPherson strut its another story, the entire weight of the car rides on that and it also uses the strut to turn, by pivoting. It is also the entire upper suspension assembly (not upper arm) and it needs to flex a good bit.

Yep, I know.. I still cap the pillow mounts with washers... the CRX would have even torn urethane mounts.. it was just too damn low. I mean, There was so much suspension preload b/c it was lowered using stock parts and re-clocked t-bars, it woud push the strut right up through the mount.

I'm actually going to make solid pillow mounts for my car soon enough... and whatever doesn't come in the energy suspension kit, I'll probably make solid too. Like the RTA's. Especially since I just got the complete rear disc swap... including new RTA's.. and it's not going in until it's been cleaned and pertied up. Including new bushings, etc.

Hi-temp black on the calipers, brackets, rotor hat, etc. It came with LCA's brake lines, cables, calipers, rotors, hubs, RTA's, camber arms, the works. basically, everything but the shock.

Im in the process of doing the same. I put my RTA's in a little dirty, but with new pads rotors and bushings.. I didnt have the time to clean and blast each part, but I wish I had. When my master kit shows up tomorrow im doing just that, to each and every part I take off.

I've got the time.. I'm not even sure if this swap is going on this car or not. It might end up on the '90 DX I'm looking at... I have to figure something out though.. my wife is pregnant, and soon I won't be able to buy car parts or new cars... I'll have to save money for the baby lol.

So I think this DX will be the last for awhile... and anything else will be acquisition or trading... I'm not going to spend any more major money on cars for awhile. But I need something more practical than my half-stripped chassis to cart a kid around in... and besides, it's completely clean.. no rust or anything, unlike mine. I'm sure it's safer.

Here's another shitty story, but hopefully this one will turn out pretty good. In our county, we now have to put our leaves into brown paper bags, in order for the town to pick them up. No more just leaving them in a pile; which is BS (lazy ass county workers). My dad raked & bagged the leaves this afternoon to get it done with. So I went to my friends house later on, and my parents went out; I ended up getting home first. Long story short, I saw some assholes in a Cavalier decide to drive by, turn around, and plow into the bags of leaves. I've seen the car drive by many times; loud exhaust, black car with a white primer'd trunk. I think I've even seen it parked in a driveway somewhere in the neighborhood before. Half the bags are destroyed, and leaves went everywhere all over our yard and driveway. I did my best to clean it up a little bit, but my dad noticed as soon as he pulled in. Since then I saw the car drive by 3 more times (ballzy mother f***ers). Needless to say, my dad's pretty pissed off. So what do we do? We make sure that if they decide to do it again, they'll regret it. We picked up the leaves and bags, and placed them all neat. My dad then took a 4ft long, 3 inch wide tree limb, jams 1 end into the ground and places the other end between the bags. So if they hit it in that direction, the branch will do some pretty good damage. But that's not enough of an insurance policy. What if they go the other direction? I took a 2 ft plank of wood & put about 10 nails in it. Then I layed it along the edge of the grass and the road, and gently covered it with leaves. I REALLLLLLLLLLY want to see them come back and hit it again.

Pillow mounts are all but useless on our cars, forreal. Our shocks dont pivot or rotate, so the need for that damn mount is nil. If you want it stiffer use energy poly bushings, cheaper and safer.

Now for a McPherson strut its another story, the entire weight of the car rides on that and it also uses the strut to turn, by pivoting. It is also the entire upper suspension assembly (not upper arm) and it needs to flex a good bit.

Except he is talking about an '85, which does pivot when the wheel is turned. The top hats were prone to letting the shock come through, but I think an upgrade in the bushing is the fix most of the time.

Here's another shitty story, but hopefully this one will turn out pretty good. In our county, we now have to put our leaves into brown paper bags, in order for the town to pick them up. No more just leaving them in a pile; which is BS (lazy ass county workers). My dad raked & bagged the leaves this afternoon to get it done with. So I went to my friends house later on, and my parents went out; I ended up getting home first. Long story short, I saw some assholes in a Cavalier decide to drive by, turn around, and plow into the bags of leaves. I've seen the car drive by many times; loud exhaust, black car with a white primer'd trunk. I think I've even seen it parked in a driveway somewhere in the neighborhood before. Half the bags are destroyed, and leaves went everywhere all over our yard and driveway. I did my best to clean it up a little bit, but my dad noticed as soon as he pulled in. Since then I saw the car drive by 3 more times (ballzy mother f***ers). Needless to say, my dad's pretty pissed off. So what do we do? We make sure that if they decide to do it again, they'll regret it. We picked up the leaves and bags, and placed them all neat. My dad then took a 4ft long, 3 inch wide tree limb, jams 1 end into the ground and places the other end between the bags. So if they hit it in that direction, the branch will do some pretty good damage. But that's not enough of an insurance policy. What if they go the other direction? I took a 2 ft plank of wood & put about 10 nails in it. Then I layed it along the edge of the grass and the road, and gently covered it with leaves. I REALLLLLLLLLLY want to see them come back and hit it again.

i really want that to happen

You realize that people who do those things seldom make it personal by coming back to hit the same person twice..

Best bet here is to warn residents of the area, and alert them as to who it was... someone will catch them and they'll get what's coming to them.

Props for the booby-trap though.. maybe they'll be the exception to the rule and come back.

Except he is talking about an '85, which does pivot when the wheel is turned. The top hats were prone to letting the shock come through, but I think an upgrade in the bushing is the fix most of the time.

I couldn't afford new tophats at one point, so I just used them from an '89... they worked fine, but they poked through too... it was at that point that I decided to use the washers.

I couldn't afford new tophats at one point, so I just used them from an '89... they worked fine, but they poked through too... it was at that point that I decided to use the washers.



Why did you quote yourself in your signature?

I was waiting for someone to say that... lol.

I dunno, when I read it back to myself, it sounds funny in my head... like something I wouldn't normally say seriously, more like in jest. The worst thing about it was: I was being serious when I typed it... except the last part.

Other than that, no particular reason... Why?

They are sold as a pair.

You still need two pair. Hence the $238. :P

i'm back!

man deployment sucks. being on a fucking ship for 7 months. ugh. never doing that again. and i come basck home and my wife decides she doesn't want to be married anymore. so now i'm getting a divorce. fucking hooray! and my new 93 si. took a shit on me so i gotta get a new engine. but enough about me how was the last 7 months for ya'll. i'm sure i missed alot.

My Ole' Lady is pregnant, I'm broke, she's still in school and we live with her mom... Oh, and my '89 DX gives me more problems every time I fix something on it.

yeah life is sucking right now. i'm just glad that we aren't going crazy with shit. i mean we are still staying in our house. we are just seperateing everything and then she is going to leave. and 6 months later the divorce will be finalized. so now we're just friends. idk. it sucks though. i haven't had sex in like 7 1/2 months.

Get some before she leaves lol... or call her one day and offer some no-strings action... then again, if you hold onto feelings, that's not for you.

yeah not for me. just want her to leave.

I just got to thinking about something a minute ago... not to change the topic of conversation... but awhile back, I said about having an A6 cam in the B2 head/block that I had... and it being several degrees off... I never realized in my brain WHY it was off... until now.

I have never read anywhere why it was off either, everyone just has a way to fix it (adjustable timing sprockets.), however, the ACTUAL REASON you can't use a Si cam in a 1.5 liter engine is b/c the 1.5's have a lower deck height. Plain and simple.

Other than that, the 1.6 Si cam could be effectively swapped into any other 1.6 liter engine, just not the 1.5's w/o modification. This is NOT to say that it won't run w/ the 1.6 cam, it just never runs totally right. It's always either advanced or retarded several degrees, until you get a cam gear, then realize the A6 cam is almost identical to the B2 cam anyway.

You still need two pair. Hence the $238. :P

You really only need them for the front, the rear will have far more travel than the front at the same ride height.

So I got my bushings today! Yay...except I cant use two of the kits.

My rear lca's are from a DA and they have slightly larger bushings.. guess ill be on the hunt for some cheap si ones.

Or you could just pay the extra $15 for the DA bushings... Just a thought... Anyway, if I come across some Si LCA's, I'll let you know.

IF you're going for new ones anyway, might be a good idea to just get aluminum ones.... they're not expensive, and they look great, while lightening the rear suspension.