Passlock System

Thanks folks, most especially Ray Corri and Poncho. I read EVERY SINGLE POST on this thread before tackling the task at hand, resistorizing my '01 Grand AM passlock. Thanks for all the helpful advice, took about an hour including a trip to Radio Shack for resistors. The car started with the first turn of the key and the SECURITY light is off. Couldn't be happier!

Advice to everyone: Don't hesitate, spend an hour and solder in the resistors. It's not hard, JUST DO IT.

Glad to hear another success!!!!

Poncho, sounds like you know what you're talking about... Thanks for sharing this very useful information about the resistors... I am taking the task on this weekend to add the resistors to my 02 Impala. I have had this problem I'll bet for a couple 2, 3 years. Every summer it seems like for the past 3 years my wife would call me and say the car wouldn't start, I had no clue until recently reading these posts. Needless to say it has gotten way worse, and heat and humidity in my opinion do very much have an affect on this problem. I was reading the earlier post and tried cutting the yellow wire, splicing in the toggle switch. This has worked fine for about the last 2 months, but the wife got locked up this week at the doctors office. It was 90 degrees and super humid. I went to pick her up, car had no dome light, no radio display at all, no air (sweating bullets). What I did was unhooked the battery for 5 minutes, hooked it back up, car started, still no air, no dome light, and no radio, display read "LOCKED". Well, I drove it back to work to finish the day, and same thing happened again, I had to unhook the battery just to get it going to get home. I planned on taking it to the dealer this morning, car did not start, had to unhook the battery, then it started, only the weather has cooled right off to around 65 and rainy. So I now have a cleared computer with no issues at all. I can't take that to the dealer because they won't be able to tell what is wrong with no light on. I was lucky enough to find this thread I guess, I'm going to give her one last shot with your resistor method this weekend. I was just about ready to go buy the ignition switch and change it out. Do you recomend that I still change the ignition swith? Or will I be okay if I follow your instructions with the resistor method? Thanks again for all the useful info...
Scott...

It doesn't sound like a PK2 problem with what you state. To me it sounds more like a problem with your battery cables or maybe the ignition switch itself. Usually if it's a PK2 problem the security light will come on while driving. Now, it also could even be a bad BCM too.

Poncho...

Thanks for the input... The more research I do, the more I have been assuming it may be the BCM. It only acts up when it's hot out. Like I said, winter months are fine. My car is black, and I'm wondering if the body is transferring heat to the BCM causing it to act up on these hot days. I've had a guy from Arizona tell me that this was happening to him, he actually went and did a test when his BCM failed on a hot day, he pulled it out and threw it in the freezer, took it out, reinstalled it, and the car started fine. It has been mid to low 70's everyday for the past week, and I have had no problems at all. Even when I drive to the gas station, turn it off for 5 minutes and try to restart, no problems now the weather is a bit cooler... I'll keep you posted, I may go to GMpartsdirect.com to purchase a new BCM and have the Stealership reprogram for me.

Thanks for the help...

I've been having this problem with a 98 pontiac grand am. The car will no longer start though. Is there any way to fix this since the car wont start? I really dont have money to buy another car and need this fixed.

serski, it can also be corroded prongs going into the BCM as well.

devunn, you gotta make sure the security is actually the issue. Will it crank over? Is the security light on? If so, I'd try adding an extra ground wire to the ground wire to the PK1 system.

I'm pretty sure that the security is the issue. I replaced the ignition switch on this car and right after that the theft system light has come on and will not go off. When I try to start the car all power is turned off and if I hold the key in the ignition position it blows my ignition fuse.. or alteast it has 2x now.

If that's the case then that sounds like an ignition switch issue. Even if the PK2 is triggered so it won't start, it shouldn't cause the fuse to blow. The reason is that the PK2 kills the fuel injection and nothing else. If a fuse blows or if it won't even crank over you've got other issues like a switch or even something simple like a bad starter.

Hi All,

Yup, i have a 99 grand am and i am having the same problems to start it, the first time i was really lucky, it would not start, and i left the car alone while talking with a friend about giving me a ride or calling someone. So i went to get my stuff out and i noticed the security light was out, so i tried it again and this time it started just fine. After a few months it happened again, but this time i knew to leave it alone for a little while, later i figured out it needed 10 min to start. Lately its getting worse, it took me about 45 min to start it the other night. I took it to the dealer and they told me it would cost around $500 and it would take about a week for the parts to arrive. So i left, started to google, i knew there must be a cheaper way, and i found your link, i will try the toggle switch method, makes sense. Going to let you know how i did.

Thanks for your insight,
Not so proud GM owner

The toggle switch method isn't recomended unless you plan to NEVER have to unhook your battery or have it go completely dead.

For GmCat:

Dude, if you're gonna take the time to tear it apart, spend the extra five minutes and install the resistors. Then it's done forever and no SECURITY light glaring in your face.

Listen to those who've done the modification, resistors are the only way to go.

Hey,

I have not done anything to the car yet, i usually do a little more research before taking a dive. I did not notice till today that this thread is very long, i had only read the first part. So now i have some reading to do, but i guess the resistor way is the best option. My CD stopped working a few months ago, but the radio is fine, so i figure i will find a decent stereo shop to have it repaired and have them help me with the resistor thing. They have all the equipment on hand and they know more about resistors than i do. Besides, they dont give a hoot about GM Anti anything, no pressure there. I will do the research, translate it to Spanish and show them what i want.

By the way, i live in Hermosillo, Sonora, México, where its pretty hot, and recently humid because its the rainy season. I got the car 2 and a half years ago, 2 previous owners, loved it the very first day i drove it.
But talk about a lemon, man...

First problem automatic transmission failed, had to get a rebuild, next the power steering pulley broke clean off, later the power steering pump, and after that the rack. During all this i had to keep an eye on the temperature gauge, had problems overheating. Changed the radiator, the pump, the fan, the reservoir and about six radiator caps. This followed thru for the second year, and just when things starting working fine, electric windows problems and now the security issue. I need to get things working so i can sell the car before i go broke..........

I also have a Mercury Grand Marquis 1983 that i bought in 1994, after 1 year i had the engine overhaul, changed a few pumps, put in a lot of miles, and for the life of me, i never had any problems in such a short time span. I am seriously thinking of selling the Grand Am cheap, and fixing up the Mercury, all it needs is a new engine and a little TLC. The reason i stopped using the Mercury and got the Grand Am was to say money on gas, 6 cylinder vs 8 cylinder. Boy did i screw up! With the money i have spent on this car i could have fixed up 2 Mercurys and still have some money left over. :mad:

Thanks,
GMCAT

I ran a wire from the battery to a 60 amp starter button under my dash and then staight to the starter. Has not fail to start since. The only thing is you have to try to start it first then hit the button so that the fuel pump and eveything else is engaged.

I ran a wire from the battery to a 60 amp starter button under my dash and then staight to the starter. Has not fail to start since. The only thing is you have to try to start it first then hit the button so that the fuel pump and eveything else is engaged.
I don't think you understand the meaning and design of the PK2 system. Doing what you did won't help anyone with a PK2 failure.

Thanks to all early posters on putting a switch inline on the yellow passlock cylinder wire. After suffereing stranding for the last time, I acted on my 2002 Malibu. My biggest problem was getting the stupid passlock to work one last time so I could flip the switch to off that I installed while waiting the multiple 10 minutes between tries. I now have the comforting solid-on security warning light as advertised, and am hapilly driving with confidence in starting first try.

Thanks to all early posters on putting a switch inline on the yellow passlock cylinder wire. After suffereing stranding for the last time, I acted on my 2002 Malibu. My biggest problem was getting the stupid passlock to work one last time so I could flip the switch to off that I installed while waiting the multiple 10 minutes between tries. I now have the comforting solid-on security warning light as advertised, and am hapilly driving with confidence in starting first try.


Great! Just pray to the Lord above that your battery never dies or needs replacement because when it does you will for sure need to spend $600 at the dealer.

Now if you get the nuts to dive into it to perminately bypass it get some resistors, a multimeter, and a solder iron and go to it!:smile:

I'm so glad I found this website. My son's 1999 Pontiac Grand Am also has the security light come on and not start from time to time. We are going to take my son's car to a mechanic friend of ours on Thursday. Our friend said that as long as I can provide the instructions he would be willing to work on the car. I've printed the instructions regarding the PK2 system and resistors. Was there are certain area where the resistor(s) should be placed and if there is, is there a picture or diagram of it? I would like to provide all the correct information to our friend.
Thank you for your help!

No. You can put the resistor anywhere between the ignition switch and the BCM

It doesn't sound like a PK2 problem with what you state. To me it sounds more like a problem with your battery cables or maybe the ignition switch itself. Usually if it's a PK2 problem the security light will come on while driving. Now, it also could even be a bad BCM too.

Well, Finally got the check enginge/security/battery/locked stereo lights to all come on the other day. So I took it into the dealership to have them diagnosis it. Turns out is was my BCM, body control module. I just had them do it right there and then, picked it up later that day. Cost $400, seems to be working now though. My symptoms were, power locks completley quit working on me. This has actually been happening for the past couple of years, (locks have only been out for about 3-4 months) the wife would get to the gas station, turn car off and not be able to start it until it cooled down she would say. 10 minutes later it was good, no lights for the 1st year and a half. It just started this summer acting up again, but it got to the point where all the lights came on and it was locked and would not start, so I actually disconnected the negative from the battery for a few minutes, put it back on, and presto I was good to go anywhere. (Wife refused to be stranded anywhere, so car is mine until fixed) But, take note, my car is black, not sure if it has anything to do with it, but the problem only seemed to occur when it is humid and over 80 degrees. I drove it for a week before I took it into the dealership trying to get all the lights on and couldn't do it. It was never over 73ish degrees and it was actually a wet rainy week, not much sun, but car operated fine all that week. It just happened to be a nice day the other day, not even 80, but I think the cars black exterior with the windows rolled up, tinted back windows, did it in for the day. I'm not sure what else to add, but this is what happened to me. The dealership confirmed that the BCM was bad. It's been a few days now, and seems to be good in the mid afternoon heat. Oh, one of the other sounds it made, when I first went to start it up, the passenger side light would flicker on the floor and it sounded like there was a little man with a hammer in the glove compartment. Hope this helps someone.... I know it got me going down the right track..
Thanks again ponchonutty...
-Scott

We left the car off last night with our mechanic friend. He says the instructions are very good. He's going to check everything out to make sure it's not the BCM before proceeding any further.
Thank you for your help ponchonutty, it's much appreciated. :smile:

... Turns out is was my BCM, body control module. I just had them do it right there and then, picked it up later that day. Cost $400, seems to be working now though.


I realize you may not have the prior experience to answer my question, so this is for anyone who knows. I just had the BCM replaced in a '01 Alero. The dealer quote for diagnostics, replacement and programming was $525. I realize they are different cars, but does it sound right for there to be $125 difference in my quote and the $400 paid here?


... It just started this summer acting up again, but it got to the point where all the lights came on and it was locked and would not start, so I actually disconnected the negative from the battery for a few minutes, put it back on, and presto I was good to go anywhere.


Is "acting up again" the passlock problem preventing you from starting the engine (or to keep it going if it did start)? Once again, the 2001 Alero has had periodic passlock problems. We had to have it towed this last time because the 10 minute relearn procedure didn't work.

Could we have avoided the tow by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery before giving up?

Before replacing the BCM for other issues (no door locks, no radio, no interior lights, no chimes) the technician got the car running by "bypassing the security system." However, there were still issues that ended up being resolved by replacing the BCM.

I never could find out what "trick" he used to "bypass the security system." The battery thing would be good to know ... if it works even temporarily for passlock issues.

gen, if you have BCM issues, there's no real way to bypass the system. He probably just reset it and at that time, everything work at that moment so it could start. When you have a BCM problem there's not much you can do even my method of bypassing the PK2 system

gen, if you have BCM issues, there's no real way to bypass the system. He probably just reset it and at that time, everything work at that moment so it could start. When you have a BCM problem there's not much you can do even my method of bypassing the PK2 system

What do you mean by "reset it?"

It would be nice to think that the passlock issue was solely because of the BCM that was corroded. If so, we wouldn't have to worry about future passlock problems. But, that would be too good to be true, so I'm not holding my breath and will see if my husband will do the "resistor" treatment to avoid future issues.

Our friend talked to a mechanic he's known for years. The mechanic talked him out of using the resistors because he said they would eventually burn out and then we would never be able to start the car again. A new ignition was put in. The real kicker to me is my son was told that this ignition may act up too. If it does, to put the key to the "on" position for 10 minutes and it will start up. He had already been doing this with the old ignition.

My question...how long do the resistors last and do they burn out periodically?

In may 2002 I installed a 2.2 K ohm resistor to by pass my auto head lights, still works. I would say in the ignition system they would only last about 50 to 100 years, your mechanic was untruthful.

What do you mean by "reset it?"

It would be nice to think that the passlock issue was solely because of the BCM that was corroded. If so, we wouldn't have to worry about future passlock problems. But, that would be too good to be true, so I'm not holding my breath and will see if my husband will do the "resistor" treatment to avoid future issues.
If the technician had a good scanner, he can get inside the BCM and erase any stored codes including PK2 failures. Sometimes just unhooking the battery is enough to do it too.

Our friend talked to a mechanic he's known for years. The mechanic talked him out of using the resistors because he said they would eventually burn out and then we would never be able to start the car again. A new ignition was put in. The real kicker to me is my son was told that this ignition may act up too. If it does, to put the key to the "on" position for 10 minutes and it will start up. He had already been doing this with the old ignition.

My question...how long do the resistors last and do they burn out periodically?

Resistors are inside almost every electronic part. If they burn out so soon then we'd be pitching radios, tv's, microwaves, and even newer refridgerators. Get my drift? Even if they do fail in the PK2 bypass method, just replace them for $3. Yes, even replacing the worn parts is temporary. Just try not to have a huge, heavy keychain and it should be good for another 80k or so miles.

BTW, I've only had to replace the resistors one time out of about 40 cars I've done this to.

why wouldnt you be able to reattatch the wire if you had cut it, instead of going to the dealer and having them give you a prostate exam?
I ask B/c i am looking into purchasing an 1998 isuzu hombre with symptoms that sound just like this.
also would any of you know whether this vehicle has passlock 1 or 2.
thanks for the good read alot of great info in here :thumbsup:

The hombre is just like the S-10 pickup so it'd be the PK2

If the technician had a good scanner, he can get inside the BCM and erase any stored codes including PK2 failures. Sometimes just unhooking the battery is enough to do it too.

Well ... disconnecting the battery is an easy enough thing to try ... sure beats being stranded. I'll have to put a sticky note in her owner's manual for future reference (as well as the three ring binder I keep with others' solutions to the various problems with this vehicle.)

And ... if clearing the passlock related code with a scanner is enough to allow the car to continue running ... no wonder so many people report towing their vehicles to the shop, only to have the technicians report back that it started and ran just fine for them. Of course, I do realize that if the issue is in intermittent wiring related problem, just jostling the car around by towing it might temporarily resolve the problem.

Edit: What is the difference in Passkey systems and Passlock systems? From what I have been able to piece together, Passkey has a resistor "pellet" in the key. However, my daughter's 2001 Alero does not have the pellet in the key and the manual refers to "passlock theft deterrent system" instead of "passkey." Are the solutions for the "security" problems for both systems the same?

thanks poncho,..
if this hombre was hacked up with just cutting the yellow wire..
why wouldnt i be able to reconnect said wire, and follow relearn procedures?
Or reset the computer and follow relearn procedures?
thanks

serski, it can also be corroded prongs going into the BCM as well.


What is the best method to clean corroded BCM prongs and/or the board itself?

I am also curious to know if it is normal for the BCM to have tape on it that must be broken to open the BCM box.

My daughter's 2001 Alero BCM that was recently replaced was very corroded. I still have it, but haven't tried to trace which corroded prongs relate to which functions. I did notice that only a few prongs appeared to be corroded when looking on the outside of the box, but when opening the box there were many more that were corroded as well.

thanks poncho,..
if this hombre was hacked up with just cutting the yellow wire..
why wouldnt i be able to reconnect said wire, and follow relearn procedures?
Or reset the computer and follow relearn procedures?
thanks
You can do that as long as the PK2 system is still working.

What is the best method to clean corroded BCM prongs and/or the board itself?

I am also curious to know if it is normal for the BCM to have tape on it that must be broken to open the BCM box.

My daughter's 2001 Alero BCM that was recently replaced was very corroded. I still have it, but haven't tried to trace which corroded prongs relate to which functions. I did notice that only a few prongs appeared to be corroded when looking on the outside of the box, but when opening the box there were many more that were corroded as well.
Well I don't really know. I don't normally mess with corroded stuff too much. Try to google that and see what comes up. There are electrical spray that you can use to clean electrical stuff but if it's too bad it won't matter much.

Just performed the resistor fix on my 2000 Chevy Monte Carlo. 9.09k ohms was the initial ohm meter reading. Used two 4.7k ohm 1/2 watt resistors from Radio Shack (.99 cents pkg of 5). Before soldering I verified the values to be 4.61k ohms (9.22k ohms in series after soldering). Thank you ponchonutty for the excellent posts.

thanks poncho

no problem guys. ztroop, your reading may be a little out of reach for the system to allow to pass in extreme weather. So if it gets very hot or very cold, it may mess up again. Then again, it may be just fine. If it messes up again, just adjust your ohm amount

Ponchonutty,the car ran fine until we got a warm front & the car messed up again.Re-checked the resistance value across the yellow & black wires on the switch, but this time read 8.77k ohms(???).Re-connected the cut yellow wire.Car started fine.Re-installed a 5.6k & 3.3k in series (8.72k on meter).Car started. No problems as of yet.Let me know if I need to be aware of any potentialproblems.Thanks again.

Nope. You should be good to go.

Hello, I own a 2001 Impala (Passlock2). I have both the trouble starting (wait 10 minutes) and intermittently the security light comes on when driving. Could it still be the cylinder or more perhaps the BCM? I would hate to cut the yellow wire and have it be the BCM all along.

Thanks.

Cutting the yellow wire is cheap, replacing the BCM is not .

Read elsewhere on the net about adding a resistor (or cutting the yellow wire) at the connector to the BCM for a GrandAm instead of at the cylinder. Any info on whether the passlock yellow wire will be easy to find going into the Impala BCM? Didn't know if the BCM connectors would be in the same location for an Impala and a GrandAm.

Here is the link for the GrandAm:
http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

No. The BCM's are totally different and the pinouts are also different. I am sure somewhere you could get the info and do it at the BCM if you wanted to but taking out the knee knocker and looking up behind the ignition switch really isn't all that hard. There's normally enough wire to pull it out into the open to do your work on. Now seriously, it could easily be either the BCM or PK2 system but like stated, messing with the PK2 is much cheaper and easier. That's usually the plan of attack I use.

Last night I looked up under the dash I saw the Impala BCM, but its not easy to get to. I removed a panel held on by clips and then there was another panel held on by screws. Is this the knee knocker? This sounds like a different (better) way then removing the radio (here is a site that describes how to get the radio out -seems like alot of work -
http://impalahq.naioa.com/HowTo/Dash.html )

Also any opinion of not using the exact resistance and the system learning that new resistance? The GrandAm site used a 2.2K resistor and had the system relearn.

Thanks for the help and the time it takes to describe these details.

Last night I looked up under the dash I saw the Impala BCM, but its not easy to get to. I removed a panel held on by clips and then there was another panel held on by screws. Is this the knee knocker? This sounds like a different (better) way then removing the radio (here is a site that describes how to get the radio out -seems like alot of work -
http://impalahq.naioa.com/HowTo/Dash.html )

Also any opinion of not using the exact resistance and the system learning that new resistance? The GrandAm site used a 2.2K resistor and had the system relearn.

Thanks for the help and the time it takes to describe these details.

I tried the suggestion on the first page; turned the vehicle on, cut the yellow wire, turned the vehicle off. Now my car won't start. I considered this site to be a reliable source of information. Was I wrong or did someone just really want to piss me off?

Well, if you had followed any of what I've said I don't recomend just to cut that yellow wire. If you had read along you'd find that I recomend to use the resistor method after doing some simple checking of items. Lastly, not all Passlock issues are due to the decoder in the ignition. Some are BCM related inwhich any sort of bypass won't work. Also, even if the simple "cut the yellow wire" trick worked it eventually would fail especially when you have to change the car's battery or if the battery went dead.

What's a resistor and where do I buy one?

I had the same problem with my 99 Alero. There is corrosion on the connector pins on the ignition switch. I pull the ignition switch out, cleaned the connector, and coated the pins with bulb grease. Two months trouble free. Check out this link. http://general-motors.pissedconsumer.com/gm-passlock-ii-system-has-major-inherent-design-flaws-20080502119601.html

I had the same problem with my 99 Alero. There is corrosion on the connector pins on the ignition switch. I pull the ignition switch out, cleaned the connector, and coated the pins with bulb grease. Two months trouble free. Check out this link. http://general-motors.pissedconsumer.com/gm-passlock-ii-system-has-major-inherent-design-flaws-20080502119601.html
Here is a site that describes removing the impala ignition switch. Could have more detail and real pictures, but better than nothing.
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/2000-chevy-impala-ignition-switch-issues-vt68221.html

It looks like we have a similar thread going in the Impala threads section:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=112


I've tried to combine everything into that that I've learned so far on this PK2 issue.


Maybe they should just have a "Security light" thread under "Chevy" - instead of having one for every single model. This seems to affect a lot of GM models.

What's a resistor and where do I buy one?
You need to have someone work on your vehicle if you don't know what a resistor is.

You need to have someone work on your vehicle if you don't know what a resistor is.

1) I don't have any money.

2) Gotta start somewhere.

Well, if you had followed any of what I've said I don't recomend just to cut that yellow wire. If you had read along you'd find that I recomend to use the resistor method after doing some simple checking of items. Lastly, not all Passlock issues are due to the decoder in the ignition. Some are BCM related inwhich any sort of bypass won't work. Also, even if the simple "cut the yellow wire" trick worked it eventually would fail especially when you have to change the car's battery or if the battery went dead.

ponchonutty:

My 97 Malibu anti-theft start-up problem had been annoying me for a very long time. This week, I fixed it using your method!

I started my car first, then cut the yellow wire, measured the reistance value using a multimeter, found a same value resistor and connected it as instructed. The anti-theft light was gone, and no start-up problem since then.

The only difference is that the resistor that I used is 6.25KOhm.

My 97 Malibu anti-theft start-up problem had be annoying me for a very ling time. This week, I fixed it using your method!

I started my car first, then cut the yellow wire, measure the reistance value using a multimeter, find a same value resistor and connect it as instructed. The anti-theft light is gone, and no start-up problem since then.

The only difference is that the resistor that I used is 6.25KOhm.
The resistance will be different on just about every GM car made. I remember back when these units first came out DEI had made a manual bypass in which you flipped a series of dip switches to make it match the value needed. If I remember it was something like 30,000 different values you could come up with.

Glad you could get it going again.

Hello ponchonutty:

Your posts of diagnosis and solutions regarding the start-up problem of GM Chevrolet Malibu brought by the anti-theft system saved me $1000 or more!

All those dealers or garages' solutions are to rob me by suggesting to change the fuel pump, starters, ignition switch, ignition coil, battery.... The cost would be more than $1000! Dishonest and Greedy!

I tried the simplest solution first. I cleaned the key and the ignition switch thoroughly with metal contact cleaner, but it did not help. Then I used your method and fixed the problem in 2 hours. Since it's my first time to do it, I did it slowly and cautiously. The problem is gone and the total cost is $0.00! It is a very happy surprise to me!

I also disconnected the battery and reconnected it after 1 hour, the car started smoothly without any problem!.

I would recommend those whose vehicle have the same problem to try your solution and follow your instructions.

Once again, thanks a lot!

Well, I had the no-start issue but now I have a new issue. Like many here, I neede a quick fix and so I just cut the yellow wire to get things going. I went back a few weeks later to try to "fix" it with the resistor and now I can't get the theft light to go off. Basically, the car always starts and the theft light is always on. Since the car always starts, I can't reprogram the system.

I checked voltage coming back on the yellow wire at the BCM and got no voltage. I checked resistance while cranking and got 1.8kOhms. Tried putting a resistor in that was close ~2.2kOhms and the car still starts with the theft light on. Tried reconnecting the yellow wire and the car still starts with the theft light on. The battery is fairly new, so I'm not concerned with a battery replacement problem right now. But, I can't live with a dash light on! I guess maybe I could see a shrink to get over my hangup with idiot lights...

Maybe someone has an idea? I'm thinking the BCM could be bad. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thank you all.

Well, I had the no-start issue but now I have a new issue. Like many here, I neede a quick fix and so I just cut the yellow wire to get things going. I went back a few weeks later to try to "fix" it with the resistor and now I can't get the theft light to go off. Basically, the car always starts and the theft light is always on. Since the car always starts, I can't reprogram the system.

I checked voltage coming back on the yellow wire at the BCM and got no voltage. I checked resistance while cranking and got 1.8kOhms. Tried putting a resistor in that was close ~2.2kOhms and the car still starts with the theft light on. Tried reconnecting the yellow wire and the car still starts with the theft light on. The battery is fairly new, so I'm not concerned with a battery replacement problem right now. But, I can't live with a dash light on! I guess maybe I could see a shrink to get over my hangup with idiot lights...

Maybe someone has an idea? I'm thinking the BCM could be bad. Any and all suggestions appreciated. Thank you all.


It is important to use resistor with resistance value close to the one that you measured, or the Anti-Theft light will still be on. 2.2kOhm is a little far away from 1.8kOhm. You can use multiple resistors in parallel or serial to get the resistance close to 1.8kOhm.

Good Luck!

Af Dali, glad I could help. Man, if I could get $1.00 per person I've helped on here I'd be looking at checking statement that would actually be in the black instead of the red!!!

ad2bu, yeah you gotta get the resistance closer than that. 1.85k ohms would be the highest I'd go. The BCM knows there's an issue with the system now so even if you were spot on, the light may stay on for a few days or until you unhook the battery. DON'T UNHOOK THE BATTERY unless you know for sure you've got it right. Also, make sure to use a good quality meter too. You may even want to switch the leads around or take one lead to chassis ground when testing it to see if there's any difference.