Passlock System

Does any one have a link for by passing pass lock on 20004 impala?

bump

first. not to be lame, but... P.A.T.S., V.A.T.S., passlock, passkey, ect. are basicaly not much different. If you don't know what to call it because you don't know much about cars or trucks, ... thats ok, everybody, including me was there once... It is called a .."TRANSPONDER BASED SYSTEM"... I didn't need to go through auto. school and years of expirience to tell you that, even though I did, mabey,,,just to tell you that. Now I'm NOT trying to be a jerk or p@@@ anyboy off but this is my first day on this and I don't get on comp's. very much but I do know something about automotive technology.

first. not to be lame, but... P.A.T.S., V.A.T.S., passlock, passkey, ect. are basicaly not much different. If you don't know what to call it because you don't know much about cars or trucks, ... thats ok, everybody, including me was there once... It is called a .."TRANSPONDER BASED SYSTEM"... I didn't need to go through auto. school and years of expirience to tell you that, even though I did, mabey,,,just to tell you that. Now I'm NOT trying to be a jerk or p@@@ anyboy off but this is my first day on this and I don't get on comp's. very much but I do know something about automotive technology.

Well how about you just not reply to anything on here if you don't have any helpfull tips to give???? I mean even what you say is wrong anyways. The systems on most, not all GM vehicles is NOT a transponder based system. Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, and Honda to name a few are all transponder based which means the "code" is inside the key and is radio based. This isn't to be confused with the old VATS systems that GM used where you actually could see a chip in the body of the key. Again, there are some GM lines line in the Pontiac and Caddy lines that use the transponder systems. ALL 2009 AND 2010 GM CARS USE A HYBRID PASSKEY II AND III SETUP.

The best and cheapest way to completely fix this is to do the following.....

Tools: Ohm meter, wire strippers, wire crimpers, needed resistance value in resistors.

Get behind the ignition switch. See large harness going to ignition switch. Open up that harness and you should see a bunch of large gauge wires. Look closely and you should see 3 tiny ones (yellow, black, and white). Grab the black and yellow wires. Start the car (hopefully security goes off). Cut yellow wire and meter the cut end that's toward the ignition switch and the black wire. Then meter that cut yellow wire again but next put the other lead of the meter to chassis ground. Which ever value is higher get a resistor(s) that closely match that number you got when you metered those wires. Take the OTHER end of the cut yellow wire and install the resistor to it and then to the black wire or chassis ground. Shut car off and start it. Light should go out. If the car starts then stalls, you may need to adjust the resistance value. If security light is on, verify that you have the correct end of the yellow wire attached to the resistor. If so, it should go out on its own after a while.

If your light was on steady before doing this repair and is still on, you may need to do the relearn sequence. This is the ONLY way to disable this system and not have to worry if your car's battery goes dead.

Yeah, I'm not so sure that the toggle switch is original equipment. As for disabling Passlock 1 or 2, it can be done fairly easily. I did this to my 2002 Olds Alero with Passlock 2. Yours is apparently Passlock 2 also according to these photos that follow. You don't have to install a toggle switch, but I would suggest it in case you go to a dealership for service and they need the Passlock re-enabled. I'm sure they will try to tell you that you shouldn't do this. You can just print out this article to educate them on their own system. The BCM is already programmed to go into "fail-enable" mode when the key reference circuit (yellow passlock wire) is broken (cut) while the engine is running. That's the key ---- while the engine is running. The security/anti-theft light will come on and stay on until the circuit is repaired. Your Passlock is now disabled. Just don't repair the circuit (reconnect the wire) unless absolutely necessary. I have read where others just tape up both ends of the cut yellow wire and leave it that way. This probably works fine, but I like the idea of being able to repair the circuit by the flip of a switch. (Just in case.)

This is the MOTOR AGE article describing "fail-enable" mode:
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf
page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.

Here are 2001 Malibu photos to help you get to the Yellow Passlock 2 wire to cut it while the engine is running. Read the directions below each photo. By the looks of these photos, you should probably go ahead and start your car with your key (no keyring or keys attached) so you won't have to figure out how to start it with the Switch in an unsecure position later in the process.

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=761&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=762&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=765&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=766&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=768&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=769&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=772&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=775&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=777&link=BULLDOG

That yellow wire is the one to clip while the car is running! Incidentally, Malibus, Grand AMs and Aleros are all having the same Passlock problems. Coincidentally, we all have the same part # for the Ignition Lock Cylinder. A Passlock sensor is built into this cylinder. If this sensor goes bad, you have to replace the entire Ignition Lock Cylinder. GM is making a killing and so are the dealerships. I'm not knocking the Certified Technicians, they are just doing what they are trained to do. How can anyone deny that this part is defective? If you are tired of having to wait to start the car that you worked so hard to buy with your own money, you should be able to disable the Passlock if you want to. This is just one way to do it. Here is the Ignition Lock Cylinder part # and I hope this disablement will really help some of you.
1999 - 2004 Alero
1997 - 2003 Malibu
1999 - 2004 Grand Am

The GM part number is 12458191.

If i could start the car, then I wouldnt' be having this problem, so how can i cut the yellow wire when the car is running?

You don't. You go to Radio Shack, buy something like a 1500 ohm resistor, install it by the method I stated, crank over the car, let it sit WITH IGNITION ON for 10 minutes, try to start it again (may have to do the 10 minute interval more than once). Then you are done. It should eventually take the new code unless your BCM is toast. Oh, if your car's battery is weak, make sure to have a charger on it while you do this repair.

Let me first say thank you to Ray and Poncho, you guys have provided a tremendous help to those of us with this passlock problem. And those pictures you linked to Ray are awesome.

I have a 2003 Old Alero. Let me see if I have this right. It is a Passlock 2 system. There is no transponder in the key itself, and any key copy should work as good as the next. I need to either put a switch in or a resisitor. I can try the resistor trick first and if it doesn't work I will put a switch in.

Am I on the right track.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for posting information on this problem.

I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am SE and all the associated problems (squeaking interior, brake problems, infamous leaking coolant gasket, and blinking security light).

I do have a quick question regarding remote starters. Reading some previous posts, a remote starter shouldn't experience the passlock issue. However, I have had 2 different remote starters on this car and both have occasionally received the blinking security light when using the remote starter. After 10 minutes, I can start the car fine.

Do you think the resistor fix will still work for me? Could it be something else causing this problem?

I was going to end this post with a "Member of the Anti-Passlock Club" but I think I'll go with "Member of the Anti-Pontiac Club".

Scratch that, "Member of the Death to GM and their shitty cars with shitty service Club"

I have a 2001 chev malibu with this same pass lock issue and found this thread very helpful thanks to all. Now my question is, after fixing the yellow wire i now have no cranking at the key if i jump the starter it starts is this related to the ingnition switch or a different problem? any help would be appreaciated. thanks

You don't. You go to Radio Shack, buy something like a 1500 ohm resistor, install it by the method I stated, crank over the car, let it sit WITH IGNITION ON for 10 minutes, try to start it again (may have to do the 10 minute interval more than once). Then you are done. It should eventually take the new code unless your BCM is toast. Oh, if your car's battery is weak, make sure to have a charger on it while you do this repair.

Okay so 4.7K and 2.2K in parallel are basically 1500 ohm. I currently have the security light on all the time, and it won't start. So from what you are saying i should just hook this resistance to the BCM side of the YELLOW wire between YELLOW and BLACK. Sure hope this works, thanks for the guidance.

Just a follow up. This worked like a charm, and now the security light is OFF all the time. Thanks a ton you guys, this place is awesome :biggrin: :runaround:

no problem just glad you finally got it.

What in the world are you talking about???? Even not knowing what you are talking about, not ALL aftermarket systems play havoc with ALL factory systems. If that was the case, there wouldn't be an aftermarket segment.
WELL, pardon me.
I should have said "CAN play havoc with the factory system."
I have seen it dozens of times.

Hi guys,


Newb here trying to figure out my friends grandpa's ( WW2 vet ) 97 malibu with 3.1L Auto, 133K miles.

Car is driving down the road and all of a sudden cuts out. Won't start for about 20 mins. Then starts fine. Im thinking the ignition switch is bad. I did tell him to just use the key itself with no heavy rings on it. This maybe isnt related to Passlock but it could be so I thought id get some advice here.

I have yet to test the alternator, battery cables and clean out the ignition cylinder.

If it is a bad key cylinder anyone have any instructions on how to replace the whole thing?

WELL, pardon me.
I should have said "CAN play havoc with the factory system."
I have seen it dozens of times.

Normally it isn't the product itself but the person who did the install being at fault.

Hi guys,


Newb here trying to figure out my friends grandpa's ( WW2 vet ) 97 malibu with 3.1L Auto, 133K miles.

Car is driving down the road and all of a sudden cuts out. Won't start for about 20 mins. Then starts fine. Im thinking the ignition switch is bad. I did tell him to just use the key itself with no heavy rings on it. This maybe isnt related to Passlock but it could be so I thought id get some advice here.

I have yet to test the alternator, battery cables and clean out the ignition cylinder.

If it is a bad key cylinder anyone have any instructions on how to replace the whole thing?

Start with the switch itself. You won't have to change the keylock, just the switch. Very common on this. Shouldn't be the PK2 system because that won't cause the car to stall out (except when just started).

I have a 99 oldsmobile alero. I am having problems with the security light. At first the light would just come on at random, but now, the light comes on each time I try and start my car. The car is no longer starting, and the security light goes on and stays flashing when I try. I've been reading some posts about disabling the system by cutting the yellow wire, but it looks like the car needs to be ON. Is there anyway to disable this now that the car won't turn on? I wish i'd seen this yellow wire thing sooner!! HELP!:banghead:

My plan on the fix is this:

1. Disconnect the battery
2. Cut the yellow wire
3. Install switch
4. Reconnect battery with switch in on position
5. Start engine and put switch into off position to disable Passlock.

Anyone else done it this way or see any reason not to do it this way?

I have a 99 oldsmobile alero. I am having problems with the security light. At first the light would just come on at random, but now, the light comes on each time I try and start my car. The car is no longer starting, and the security light goes on and stays flashing when I try. I've been reading some posts about disabling the system by cutting the yellow wire, but it looks like the car needs to be ON. Is there anyway to disable this now that the car won't turn on? I wish i'd seen this yellow wire thing sooner!! HELP!:banghead:

Get a resistor say about 1500 to 2500 ohms and install that resistor as I've stated before (between the cut yellow wire on the car side and black reference wire) connect a battery charger and try to start your car. Leave it sit for 11 minutes and try it again. If it still doesn't start, let it sit another 11 minutes. This could take up over a half hour to complete but should get you going again.

My plan on the fix is this:

1. Disconnect the battery
2. Cut the yellow wire
3. Install switch
4. Reconnect battery with switch in on position
5. Start engine and put switch into off position to disable Passlock.

Anyone else done it this way or see any reason not to do it this way?

If the system is working when you install the switch then it'll work as along as you NEVER let the car's battery go dead or have to unhook it. Also, when the system finally takes a poo, flipping the switch won't turn off the security light. Resistor method usually fixes the problem 99% of the time.

Get a resistor say about 1500 to 2500 ohms and install that resistor as I've stated before (between the cut yellow wire on the car side and black reference wire) connect a battery charger and try to start your car. Leave it sit for 11 minutes and try it again. If it still doesn't start, let it sit another 11 minutes. This could take up over a half hour to complete but should get you going again.

I'm going to try this. Thank you for the advice, and so fast! Where do I get a resistor? is there a specific type i am looking for? What should i be asking for when i go shopping?

I'm going to try this. Thank you for the advice, and so fast! Where do I get a resistor? is there a specific type i am looking for? What should i be asking for when i go shopping?

Nope, just any basic resistor at Radio Shack will do or any alarm shop too should have them.

OK, I decided to go the resistor route. Not hard cause the BCM is under the glove box. Here is my issue. I connected the resistor using alligator clips to test. The Security has been on for awhile and not gone away. I must have been in fail enable for some time now. Here is what I did:

1. Disconnected the battery, then the plug on the BCM
2. Installed resistor (2.2k 1/4w) with alligator clips and plugged BCM in
3. Reconnected the battery and the car starts with the light on still even with the yellow wire cut.

Is my problem that I need to get it out of fail enable before attempting the resistor?

Alligator clips not working?

Bad BCM, I don't think so as it has exhibited classic passlock symptons?

Otherwise how can I disconnect the battery in Fail enable mode and reconnect and have it still start. I am very frustrated.

I am trying to fix my brother in-law malibu and need a few points on what direction to head in. I read thru the post on this thread and I picked up a few thing I need to try.

The car...
2005 Malibu Classic 4 cylinder (4th letter in the vin is a 'N')

The Symptons...
-Car wont start or will start for a brief second.
-I believe the door locks will no unlock/lock on the door switches.
-Remote unlock on remote doesnt work.
-Theft light on or flashing

Could me doing the on/off on/off on/off for 30min reset the issue and solve everything? Or am I looking at replacing some parts?

OK, I decided to go the resistor route. Not hard cause the BCM is under the glove box. Here is my issue. I connected the resistor using alligator clips to test. The Security has been on for awhile and not gone away. I must have been in fail enable for some time now. Here is what I did:

1. Disconnected the battery, then the plug on the BCM
2. Installed resistor (2.2k 1/4w) with alligator clips and plugged BCM in
3. Reconnected the battery and the car starts with the light on still even with the yellow wire cut.

Is my problem that I need to get it out of fail enable before attempting the resistor?

Alligator clips not working?

Bad BCM, I don't think so as it has exhibited classic passlock symptons?

Otherwise how can I disconnect the battery in Fail enable mode and reconnect and have it still start. I am very frustrated.

Are you sure you got the right wires at the BCM? Those wires are in different locations on different models so I don't recomend getting them there. At the key is usually the easiest. Also, are you sure you have the resistor on the BCM side of the cut yellow wire? You may have to take the other end of the resistor to chassis ground too.

I am trying to fix my brother in-law malibu and need a few points on what direction to head in. I read thru the post on this thread and I picked up a few thing I need to try.

The car...
2005 Malibu Classic 4 cylinder (4th letter in the vin is a 'N')

The Symptons...
-Car wont start or will start for a brief second.
-I believe the door locks will no unlock/lock on the door switches.
-Remote unlock on remote doesnt work.
-Theft light on or flashing

Could me doing the on/off on/off on/off for 30min reset the issue and solve everything? Or am I looking at replacing some parts?

You can try to unhook the battery and also unplugging the connections at the BCM first to see if that works. You can try to do the BCM relearn but that should only work if the car won't start. If it's running but the light is on, it's in fail-enable mode.

I am almost positive I had the right wires. I followed this:

http://www.bergerweb.net/grandamsecurityfix.htm

yep, that looks good.

Poncho

I have a 1998 S10 Blazer 4wd and I have a security question. I am quite sure that my PCM is partly bad. Auto headlights don't work right and my trip meter resets back to 0 after about 20 minutes after I turn the key off, and I don't have a security light that comes on at anytime. I bought another PCM and after I installed it my security light comes on and will not start. I went through the re-learn mode with no luck. When I tried to read the resistance through the ignition for the Passlock is shows open. It does not have the keyless feature. What size resister should I put between the yellow & orange/black wire to reset the PCM value for the Passlock? When I re-install the original PCM it starts fine but never get a security light.

Poncho

I have a 1998 S10 Blazer 4wd and I have a security question. I am quite sure that my BCM is partly bad. Auto headlights don't work right and my trip meter resets back to 0 after about 20 minutes after I turn the key off, and I don't have a security light that comes on at anytime. I bought another BCM and after I installed it my security light comes on and will not start. I went through the re-learn mode with no luck. When I tried to read the resistance through the ignition for the Passlock is shows open. It does not have the keyless feature. What size resister should I put between the yellow & orange/black wire to reset the BCM value for the Passlock? When I re-install the original BCM it starts fine but never get a security light.

My previous post I said PCM and I meant BCM

I need some big help.

My friend who manages a rehab center needs his suburban to drive the men around.

It's a 2000 Chevy Suburban 2WD.

The key does not have the resistor in it.

I tried the wait 10 minutes with the ignition on thing but it did nothing other than have the security light turn off and the battery light turn on (Even with a charger attached).

When I turn the ignition key to start, the lights go out and relays click, even the relay in the fuse center for the starter clicks, but the starter refuses to start or turn at all.

So, I rigged it to where I can manually make the starter start, and even though the ignition switch has zero effect on the motor, the engine actually is TRYING to start, acting like the gas tank is almost completely empty.

Could this be a passlock problem even though the key doesn't have the resistor in it?

I spent all day trying to figure this one out. Any help is very much appreciated.

Your key wouldn't have a resistor in it. The Passlock system will not keep the engine from turning over and even if the Passlock was bad the engine would start then die. Sounds like to me that since you can bypass the ignition switch and spin the engine over then it is probably the ignition switch. When you jumped out the starter did you have the key on? You might also want to check the connector at the bottom of the steering column. Make sure that your battery is good and fully charged.

Well, the engine seems to want to start, then die. Did you mean it wouldn't start then die? Yes, they key was on when I jumped the starter. It seems like the ignition switch might be bad, maybe it's not fully activating the fuel pump either.

If the passlock is bad it will start and run for a couple of seconds then die and you can restart it and it will die again. This will happen every time that you turn the key off and try to start it. When you turn your key on can you hear the fuel pump run, it should run for a few seconds and shut off. Is the security light flashing on the instrument cluster when you turn the key on? You might just have to unplug the wiring harness at the base of the steering column and clean the contacts and make sure that it is tight.

Well, we put it back together, and had a mechanic look at it. He tried some things, and called Chevy, who said to tow it down to them, because they have to hook a computer to it an "reset" the security system.

Well, we put it back together, and had a mechanic look at it. He tried some things, and called Chevy, who said to tow it down to them, because they have to hook a computer to it and "reset" the security system. I thought I could hear the fuel pump going, but a pressure test revealed no pressure. When we tried the 10 minute reset, the security light would go off, and a red battery light would come on. Also, the gauges wouldn't work, and the mechanic said the security system cut power to all of the subsystems. (But the radio still worked)

hi, I have a 2003 or 2004 malibu w. these symptoms. not sure if i have
passlock 2, passkey 3 system. does it matter?
will cutting yellow wire while running work? thanks

I've encountered the problem with my beat up, 1996 Pontiac Grand Am. The theft light is always on and I can hear it activate when I turn the key.

I know that you must cut the yellow wire, but this car is never going to be serviced by the manufacturer again, so I have no interest in putting in a toggle switch.

Can I simply cut the wire and let it be? By the way, is it the yellow wire underneath the steering wheel? The instructions across the internet aren't that clear to me.

Thanks very much, and I love these forums. :D

By the way, you don't necessarily NEED to wait the 10 minutes. The first time I try to start the car, it 100% won't work, starts then dies almost immediately. However, the second time, you can almost force it to start by making the starter struggle, but the engine does rev really hard for a couple of seconds, then it works "fine."

Someone explain to me why the toggle switch is just a bad idea. If it is, why does GM recommend it to do when installing remote starters.

To do the toggle switch:

Cut yellow wire while car is running
Shut car off
Solder in switch with the switch in the OFF position
Start car, security light should be on
Put switch in ON position, security light should go off (provided passlock is working at the time)
Put switch back to OFF, light should come back on

Everyone is saying that if the battery goes dead and the passlock system fails (whether through BCM or ignition or whatever), then the car will not start no matter what position the switch is in. Well if the passlock system fails completely if you dont have the switch, it wont start anyways.

I've got a good one, my 98 malibu just stopped starting. First off, not a fuel or coil problem. We checked all sensors (24x, 7x, camshaft) and nothing. I tested the ignition module and it is good, tried different keys; no joy. The key bit of info is that I'm not seeing the anti-theft light on my dash after the initial power on test. I'm now looking at either a bad BCM or switch to BCM wire. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

hi, I have a 2003 or 2004 malibu w. these symptoms. not sure if i have
passlock 2, passkey 3 system. does it matter?
will cutting yellow wire while running work? thanks

I saw where cutting the wire AFTER the on pulse is sent to the BCM will work, when you turn the key on it sends an on pulse to the computer, turning the key off sends a second pulse which tells the computer it's off; cutting the wire after the first pulse stops the second pulse from resetting the system. This procedure may cause other problems down the road.

I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand AM SE1 3.4l AT.
A few months after i bought the car (roughly 85k miles on it) it started giving me a starting problem. I only vaguely remember it happening maybe once every 4-6 months or so, before then it was never a problem. Now, almost 2 years later(92k miles), every single time I try to crank the car I am having to leave the key in the ignition turned to the "ON" position for a minimum of 10 mins, and then right at 10 minutes I can hear the fuel pump engage and then the car will turn over successfully. This works every time.

Going into further details, the security light has never come on while the car is running, it has never flashed on either. However, when the key is turned to the "ON" position without trying to crank the car...the security light does turn on and stays on until A) cranking the car or B) turning the key to the "OFF" position and then turning the key back to the "ON" position.
I have just realized after reading through some of this thread that I am using a spare key I had a local dealership make me, the original key is quite worn but I never had a problem starting the car when i was using it as I recall. Another thing is that more recently I have had other issues spawn up...one of them being the car dying on me at random times, it has only done it a few times but seems to be doing it more frequently now.. i.e. turn the key to on position.. fuel pump does not turn on so wait 10-15 minutes, when fuel pump engages turn the key to the "START: position and starts flawlessly at that point but when the car idles down and you shift the transmission into reverse to back out of the drive way the car goes dead just as soon as it is shifted. I have also had it go dead at me once at a red light, only that one time tho. The other odd thing that has started recently is that when I turn the key to the "ON" position...9 times out of 10 the locks are locking every 20 seconds or so until i start the car or turn the key to the "OFF" position. No other electrical oddities, just the starting and door locks.

Judging by the passkey system and I really thought that was my problem at first, I am now discovering it looks to be something else maybe with the ignition switch itself or the BCM or maybe it is a combination of things I don't really know. I had a friend of mine who's a mechanic hook up his scanner last year some time ago.. but the car would crank fine every time we tried for about an hour. At that time the starting problem was very intermittent though, so I will get him to check it again soon maybe if he can find some free time.

I have the car in the shop right now due to a transmission oil cooler leak which is a whole other $500 story for something else I wont go into here...but when I get the car back next week I will try the original key and see if that makes any difference, if not I guess I will try to get my friend to hook up his scanner again and see what he can find out.

I was really hoping to try to bypass the key recognition circuit but it seems that would do me no good at all with my symptoms :( I love the car but it is just letting me down so much, with gasket leaks, cooler leaks into the cooling system, starting problems, sigh.. well if any of my symptoms sound familiar please give me a heads up, possibly a bad BCM?

Thanks, much appreciated and also thanks for letting me vent.

We had our anti theft lock on in our car, we could not figure out how to start the car, then we went on this site and found out about turning the key and just waiting---well it worked -----Thank you --We drove away very happy,


Allis:smooch:

I have a 98 Malibu and key won't turn. I am replacing the whole ignition switch assembly. There is not a 'pellet' resistor in the key like my Camar oand Bonneville. There is the three little wires that go into the Key Tumbler cylinder. QUESTION: will the replacement key tumbler work? that is, does the little circuit thing the three wires go into have a coded resistance?

i have an 2003 chevy malibu. there is 116,000 miles on it. great condition except for the theft system problem. it was happening like once every 2 months. now it happens at least like 3 times a week. it is so effin frustrating. im young and know nothing about cars. so im a lil confused about what to do. ive heard that you just cut the yellow wire but i dont want to start cutting stuff when i dont know what im doin. there isnt a simpler way to bypass the system without having to cut the wires? ive been told by some mechanics that i need a new ignition switch. could that solve my problem?? any response to this i would greatly appreciate. thanks.

Going to try the resistor method tomorrow...

Gotta buy a soldering gun and ohm reader though

Going to try the resistor method tomorrow...

Gotta buy a soldering gun and ohm reader though

************************************************** *****

:screwy: What?

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.asp


Just cut the yellow wire, and butt-splice in longer wires with a toggle. No soldering or resistors needed.

It works - Guaranteed.

Scared of dead battery? That's a total pant-load and a dealer and ignorant person scare tactic. Nothing more. If your battery dies, so what. Flip your toggle back "ON" and install a new battery. If "Security" light in dash is flashing, leave key on for 10-15 minutes and restart car. Then turn OFF toggle and leave it off. "Security" light comes back on and your problems stay GONE.

Feel that you need remote start or an aftermarket alarm or your other keyless crap to still function?

www.bulldogsecurity.com (http://www.bulldogsecurity.com)

Check 'em out for all your work-around needs. They are pros and know what they are doing.

As for me, I just toggled that worthless Passlock sh*t out and my problems are gone. No need for any of the other keyless crap anyhow, no matter how "convenient" it may have been. I'm not wasting another dime on this nonsense. Just need a car that runs and drives daily, hassle-free.

For many of us "Average Joe's" out there, it's much more convenient to keep our money, and to NOT be stranded -ever - because our car's won't start, all due to some defective garbage electronic technology that a LOSER manufacturer (GM :loser:) won't admit to fault nor will they fix.

Peace out, cub scout!

With resistor, no security light.

Ah, good point... I wasn't thinking about that.

I suppose that keeping the light out would be semi-important if you were planning to sell your car, to keep from "scaring off" people.

Not to mention, idiot lights that are constantly on in the dash can be pretty annoying to some people. Personally, I choose to ignore them when I know their purpose for being lit is "meaningless".

Hi all,

I had the usual passlock issue where it would prevent me from starting the car but over a year and a half ago it broke altogether and since then the 'theft lock' light is on constantly but the car has not once locked me out. It's been great in that respect but I'm worried about some upcoming work I need to do (gaskets of course) where I may have to unhook the battery. If my passlock system is broken will my car start at all if I disconnect the battery?

Newbu... Honestly, it really shouldn't matter. The fact that the light is on steady, merely means that the system is inoperative. If it were blinking, then you'd have an issue, because then the car wouldn't start until the passlock system was reset.

Gotta be honest, never heard of a Passlock system actually "breaking" on its own to where the car will still start. I suppose it's certainly possible though. Perhaps you had it serviced at some point, and they eliminated your Passlock for you by snipping the yellow wire and you weren't even aware of it? It's certainly a possibility.

Anyhow... if it would make you feel better, you can get one of those 12v cigarrette lighter plugs that are made for "saving" your radio presets and whatnot. Although many modern cars will save radio presets when the battery is disconnected, there are also many that don't. (That's why that handy-dandy "tool" was invented and marketed.) Many auto parts stores carry them, or you can always just make your own. You plug the one end into your cig. lighter port and the other end has alligator clamps for connecting to another remote 12v source. Naturally, you do this BEFORE you disconnect your battery under the hood.

You can use another 12v battery, or a 12v battery charger to achieve your 12v auxillary power source. Basically, you are "backfeeding" your electrical system with your cigarette lighter port, thereby keeping most of your electrical system powered up.

Not sure why you would be disconnecting your battery to do engine gaskets though. If you are doing what I think you are doing (blown intake manifold gaskets are a very common problem on GM's 3.1L & 3.4L V-6's.), there is no real reason to have to disconnect your battery.

But, like I said before... I don't believe disconnecting your battery will cause you any kind of problems anyhow. It certainly shouldn't!

Well, good luck bro, and have fun with those gaskets!

Hi again folks,

This is a follow up from my above post. I did the gasket change as I planned and the first thing we did was unhook and re-hook the battery to check if it would start again. Luckily it did, so we proceeded with the work from there. Now that I know it's broken but with no real negative consequence, I have no intention of replacing the key cylinder just for it to lock me out again down the road sometime.

And by the way, the reason I had to unhook the battery is because I also changed the radiator hoses at the same time and one of them runs under the battery support. Would have been very hard to get to if we hadn't.

Thanks for the reply Turbo

I have just done the "Resistor" method of disabling the passlock on my 2003 Grand Am.

I used a 2.2k 1/4 watt resistor (DIDN'T check the resistance of the passlock and try and match it with a resistor), installed as describe on forums, (yellow wire from BCM to resistor then spliced onto black wire from BCM) then did the reset code thing (10 min with ign to ON).

It worked! now no passlock problems OR warning light.

I had same problem with a 1996 monte carlo with the VATS type security (one with a "pellet" in the key). That took a very long time to disable compared to this fix.


Justin

Should this "cut the yellow wire" system work on a 2007 Malibu?

Should this "cut the yellow wire" system work on a 2007 Malibu?

Not if the key has a + or + in a circle near the plastic end.

please help i was woundering if a remote start will bypass all the code shit we have been trying for 2 days to get my 2002 malibu started after changing altinator.HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!

we cant keep the car running long enough to cut the yellow wire can we do it with out it running.urgent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i have done this be for three years ago my car wouldn't start so i had towed in we was told it was the fuel filter then he said it was the starter we had inc. then and told him to fix it so he did then told us it would proudly would happen again that he fixes that problem allot.well the inc.we got through the bank told us that part of the starter wasn't covered.we payed 582.00 to get that done .now here we go again.i was on my way to work two days after Christmas and my half way there my lights dimmed and my heater went down.then it al came backup again and it felt like it wasn't getting any gas and it staled in the middle of the road of course.i had to Walk to a department store to call a tow to get it home my hubby replaced the alternator thats it then try ed to start it .it wouldn't start.i called Chevy they keep trying to get me to two it in so they could reprogram it they said because we fixed it ourself it thinks its been stolen.it took me awhile to get the 15 min proses to start it out of them.now my batterie went dead doing that so we took that in to get it checked .it checked out fine orally said there is nothing wrong with our batterie and they charged it in 10 min.we came home and did the richiwall and it would start and stall every time.it wont stay started long enough for us to cut the yellow wire .don't now what to do.like i said right after Christmas so brook cant stand it .i wish i had the money to take Chevy down but of course we live week too week.the rich don't ask questions they just fix it so we r stuck with the problem.i just wont my car back and don't have the money to let them do it .thanks for listening sorry so long of a letter.:2cents::crying:

just wondering of you have any more luck since your last reply. I had success twice last year with the "key on, wait 10+ miniutes" process.

Hello all, this is my first post here, but I have been reading this trail and had a question.

I have been having the anti-theft flashing light and wont start issue. I cleaned the key and it worked, but I figured I would bypass it now and be done with it. So I snipped the yellow wire and measured the resistance from the yellow wire (ignition side) to the stripped black wire. At first I got 100 ohms so I soldered in a resistor from the yellow wire (BCM side) to the stripped black wire. Car starts no problem, but the anti-theft light is on when the car is running.

I read on here that if the resistor isn't correct it might cause the anti-theft light. So I measured again same way as above with the car in Reverse so it would not start and I get values ranging from 1100 to 2000 ohms. I tried putting in a 1150 ohm and still the light won't go off. Same with a 2200 ohm.

Does anyone have any ideas?