Passlock System

Be carefull though because if your disconnect your battery or it goes dead, it'll lock you out for good. That's why doing the resistor trick will fix it for good 99% of the time no matter if the battery goes dead or not.

Be carefull though because if your disconnect your battery or it goes dead, it'll lock you out for good. That's why doing the resistor trick will fix it for good 99% of the time no matter if the battery goes dead or not.

With the switch installed you can rearm it, and start over, if you disconnect the battery.

With the switch installed you can rearm it, and start over, if you disconnect the battery.
Yep up and until the decoder in the ignition completely takes a crap. When you "rearm" the system, all you are doing is putting it back to normal. If "normal" isn't right, the car won't start. Trust me on this.:smokin:

Yep up and until the decoder in the ignition completely takes a crap. When you "rearm" the system, all you are doing is putting it back to normal. If "normal" isn't right, the car won't start. Trust me on this.:smokin:

Just need to use the bypass procedure to get it running, 1/2 hour is what it takes.

Why waste 1/2 hour when you can permenately disable it and never have to wait again? Besides, if you can't get the correct code or ANY code to the BCM, it'll never start. Not even through the fail-enable mode which is what you are making it do. Read it up in your owner's manual. It states that you can only get it to start in the fail-enable mode so many times before you have to tow it to a dealer.

Why waste 1/2 hour when you can permenately disable it and never have to wait again? Besides, if you can't get the correct code or ANY code to the BCM, it'll never start. Not even through the fail-enable mode which is what you are making it do. Read it up in your owner's manual. It states that you can only get it to start in the fail-enable mode so many times before you have to tow it to a dealer.

The bypass does not need a code, it bypasses that. I have gone 120K and never disconnected the battery. But if by some chance you do, just rearm.

Hello,
I have a 2001 Impala 3.4. I changed the thermostat and sensor. I disconnected a couple of sensors that are between the intake man and the air box. After every thing was reinstalled I received the battery/security flashing light, the engine will turn over but will not start. The car started fine before I started the job. I am missing or not doing something correct and I could use some advice.
Done thus far:
CarQuest advised, disconnect/connect the battery, lock/unlock passenger twice, driver side once, turn off then on and start. I have locked/unlocked from the outside and in.
11 min acc. Three times
Turn to on position and waited 10, 15, and 30 min turn off then on to try to start, also from the on position to starter position w/o turning off, the security light never stopped flashing on ant attempt.
I have done the above #3 at 10 min intervals, 4 times.
I have disconnected the negative battery terminal for 15 min.
I called AutoZone (its Sunday) to borrow a code reader to see if maybe I could use it to reset and the manager told me the car needs to be running.
As of this post I have been on hold w/ Roadside Assistance for a little more than three hours.Battery at this point needs charging, after I will do the 11 min. in the on position instead of the ass. position. Will it affect the reseting of the security if I continue w/ charger connected to the battery and on the 2 amp setting?Is there something obvious that I am missing on the procedure turn the car on and wait 10 min? Do you have to be sitting in the car or can this be done through the lowered window? I would rather not say how long I have been working on this the great thermostat/security event, but I have been charging the battery as I go.

I must of spoke this situation into existence (repeated use of expletives) when I found out how unnecessarily complicated changing the thermostat was. Does Microsoft own GM?
Thanks,
P

The bypass does not need a code, it bypasses that. I have gone 120K and never disconnected the battery. But if by some chance you do, just rearm.
I'm sorry but you do not understand what I am saying. With this toggle switch you are not bypassing anything. What you are doing is making an open short in the decoding system. Doing so makes the car go into fail/enable mode. When you have a dead battery or for what ever reason the voltage drops to a certain level, the car will not let you start no matter what because it won't see things in the correct way. The only way you are "bypassing" it as of now is because the BCM is retaining memory and can remember there's a fault in the passlock system. Once the BCM forget that, you are going to shell out some $$.

Hello,
I have a 2001 Impala 3.4. I changed the thermostat and sensor. I disconnected a couple of sensors that are between the intake man and the air box. After every thing was reinstalled I received the battery/security flashing light, the engine will turn over but will not start. The car started fine before I started the job. I am missing or not doing something correct and I could use some advice.
Done thus far:
CarQuest advised, disconnect/connect the battery, lock/unlock passenger twice, driver side once, turn off then on and start. I have locked/unlocked from the outside and in.
11 min acc. Three times
Turn to on position and waited 10, 15, and 30 min turn off then on to try to start, also from the on position to starter position w/o turning off, the security light never stopped flashing on ant attempt.
I have done the above #3 at 10 min intervals, 4 times.
I have disconnected the negative battery terminal for 15 min.
I called AutoZone (its Sunday) to borrow a code reader to see if maybe I could use it to reset and the manager told me the car needs to be running.
As of this post I have been on hold w/ Roadside Assistance for a little more than three hours.Battery at this point needs charging, after I will do the 11 min. in the on position instead of the ass. position. Will it affect the reseting of the security if I continue w/ charger connected to the battery and on the 2 amp setting?Is there something obvious that I am missing on the procedure turn the car on and wait 10 min? Do you have to be sitting in the car or can this be done through the lowered window? I would rather not say how long I have been working on this the great thermostat/security event, but I have been charging the battery as I go.

I must of spoke this situation into existence (repeated use of expletives) when I found out how unnecessarily complicated changing the thermostat was. Does Microsoft own GM?
Thanks,
P

I must say your problem is interesting. Did you check EVERY fuse to make sure everything else is OK? Lightly bang on your dash where your ignition switch is or lightly wiggle the key when you go to start it. If it still doesn't start try going into the passlock learn sequence. It should be 10min intervals and that light should just come on and stay on when its ready. No, leaving a charger on while doing this will not cause any issues but having a real weak battery or low voltage can.

Hello,
No, not like I should have. In the morning I will disconnect the battery then pull, clean and check every fuse. Yes, good advice (advice my grandfather would have given me) “fix it w/ a hammer” figuratively of course. I will do some tapping and shaking.
Thanks
P

I'm sorry but you do not understand what I am saying. With this toggle switch you are not bypassing anything. What you are doing is making an open short in the decoding system. Doing so makes the car go into fail/enable mode. When you have a dead battery or for what ever reason the voltage drops to a certain level, the car will not let you start no matter what because it won't see things in the correct way. The only way you are "bypassing" it as of now is because the BCM is retaining memory and can remember there's a fault in the passlock system. Once the BCM forget that, you are going to shell out some $$.

Whatever, case closed.

I must say your problem is interesting. Did you check EVERY fuse to make sure everything else is OK? Lightly bang on your dash where your ignition switch is or lightly wiggle the key when you go to start it. If it still doesn't start try going into the passlock learn sequence. It should be 10min intervals and that light should just come on and stay on when its ready. No, leaving a charger on while doing this will not cause any issues but having a real weak battery or low voltage can.
Hello,

1. All fuses checked out.
2. Manual manipulation (jiggling, shaking, or tapping) has had no affect.
3. I have gone through the 11 min. in the on position 3 times.
4. I did notice that the ignition assembly does have a small amount of play in it. The plastic ring with the writing, on the outside of the assembly also has play in it.
5. I have focused on the 10 min reset time, repeating the procedure many times.

I am not a fan of coincidence. It is hard for me to believe that the security system goes on the fritz as I finish the thermostat job. I understand that working with electronics this can happen.

Is the replacement of the ignition assembly available only at the dealer?
The resetting is not working, what else could the problem be?

Thanks
P

Update:

Called a mechanic that I know as was told to try, disconnect the battery pause reconnect, from the outside lock/unlock passenger door one time then turn on and wait 10 min, start. No joy. Called him back he said the dealer can reset it, and or replace the alarm. Just under $600.00 for the alarm. This is Insane. How can I trust the dealer not to sell me an alarm if mine is not truly bad? Ask for the old part then what?

Hello,

1. All fuses checked out.
2. Manual manipulation (jiggling, shaking, or tapping) has had no affect.
3. I have gone through the 11 min. in the on position 3 times.
4. I did notice that the ignition assembly does have a small amount of play in it. The plastic ring with the writing, on the outside of the assembly also has play in it.
5. I have focused on the 10 min reset time, repeating the procedure many times.

I am not a fan of coincidence. It is hard for me to believe that the security system goes on the fritz as I finish the thermostat job. I understand that working with electronics this can happen.

Is the replacement of the ignition assembly available only at the dealer?
The resetting is not working, what else could the problem be?

Thanks
P

Update:

Called a mechanic that I know as was told to try, disconnect the battery pause reconnect, from the outside lock/unlock passenger door one time then turn on and wait 10 min, start. No joy. Called him back he said the dealer can reset it, and or replace the alarm. Just under $600.00 for the alarm. This is Insane. How can I trust the dealer not to sell me an alarm if mine is not truly bad? Ask for the old part then what?



Yes, I hear ya. I know there's some very good dealers out there that bend over backwards to help but there seems to be more that make you bend over if you get what I mean.

As far as the ignition switch being loose, they all seem that way. Again, at this point I'd hate to tell you to replace this or that since I am unsure exactly what the problem is. My guess is that if you replaced the decoder ring in the column (the PK2 signal) that would be a good bet.

Your mechanic friend, doesn't he have a tech2 scanner like from Snap-On that'll read the code stored in the BCM? Maybe for $20 or a beer or 10 he'll come over and see what's stored in there. From that point you should be able to find out what's going on.

You could always try to do the bypass thing but it'd be a little difficult with out the car running at all.

My car is a 2002 Malibu LS. The car will not start and the Theft System light stays on steady.


I put in a new ignition cylinder from GM. ($226.00 included $30 to re-key it to my key. The dealer said he could program the car for another $125.00 but I decided to try the 30 minute learn instead)
I put the car back together and turned the key to the run position and the Theft System light started to flash and went out after about 10 minutes
I turned the key off and waited 5 seconds and turn it back to the run position and the Theft System light stayed on steady and never went out no matter how long I waited
Called the dealer and told them I was towing it there to have them program it. The dealer said they found a loose connection at the BCM and repaired it, (for $260.00!). The dealer called and said the car started and ran for about 10 minutes and died. They say the fuel pump is bad and need to be replaced to the tune of $700.00+!!! I told them to forget that since I was still a bit certain that the Theft System could be shutting it down.
I had the car towed back to my house and low and behold, the Theft System light is still on steady! I have no idea what they did for $260.00 but I don’t think it was to program the system to the new cylinder like I asked them to do.
So my questions are:

Since the Theft System light is on steady, could this be a DOA switch or a bad BCM? Anyone have any thoughts on this? I would think that since it’s electronic that anything is possible with this
When we say the Theft system has encountered a problem and causes a no-start condition, does it shut down the fuel pump and/or the injectors? If it shuts down the fuel pump I then I’ll pass on dropping the tank and throwing more money at this POS until I get the theft system issues worked out
Once this is fixed has anyone tried a remote start bypass rather then the switch or resistor trick? Just wondering since I happen to have one for this car. ~ Although I’m leaning towards the RadShack switch install.

Thanks for reading all this, I’m interested in any and all comments.

Well, I just bypassed one the other day too. What I did was cut the yellow PK2 wire, stripped a little off of the black reference ground wire, put one lead from my ohm meter on the black ground wire and the other lead on the wire yellow wire going to the ignition switch. Then I put the car in gear and cranked it over. When you do that, the switch will send out what code it has been using. It came out to something like 6.21ohms. I then got some resistors that were about 6.25 and connected one end of the resistors to the cut yellow wire GOING to the BCM and the other end of the resistors to the ground reference wires. It started right up and the theft light went off.

Excellent idea, but the ignition switch has to be working when you make your initial resistance measurement, otherwise you get the wrong value. Did you find those resistors locally or did you have to order them? That value sounds unusual. Also, when you say "I put the car in gear and cranked it over," you don't mean literally, do you? You mean it's in park, right?

Hello,
To conclude:

Overheated.
Changed the thermostat and sensor (wow).
Would not start security light.
Researched and found an honest dealer.
10 min wait is correct, didn’t work.
Tow car.
Loose connection to one of the wiring harnesses! $125, ok
Leave dealer enroute to radiator specialty shop w/ car overheating, many stops.
Must leave car inside shop, bad area, not normally allowed, only place in small shop for one car, cannot make across town.
Remove and rotor rooter radiator, change one side of radiator, flush engine $235.
Get home to find the entire car cover in 1mm pellets of something very hard to remove. Two (2) days of cleaning w/ different stuff; I get it all off.
To wipe the last bit of high grade wax off of the clean running car; Priceless! It was nice to meet this forum and thanks for the fast accurate help.

Thanks
P

Will this work for a Malibu 97?

yep.

i have a 99 cavalier that I have replaced the passlock and ingnition twice and now the key is stuck and locked in the run position and radio power windows and a/c fans will not work it is like the car is not on but it starts and drives but it wont shut off i have to pull the fuel pump relay to kill the engine i know i have to replace the ignition but will the bypass work (cutting yellow wires) to get the other funtions work. :banghead:

i have a 99 cavalier that I have replaced the passlock and ingnition twice and now the key is stuck and locked in the run position and radio power windows and a/c fans will not work it is like the car is not on but it starts and drives but it wont shut off i have to pull the fuel pump relay to kill the engine i know i have to replace the ignition but will the bypass work (cutting yellow wires) to get the other funtions work. :banghead:

Welcome to AF
Sounds like you are going to need more than cutting the yellow wire.

It would be better to start a new thread/post to get help on your problem.
And give all info you can.
MT

skule, glad to have you aboard but I too think you have something major wrong. Did you replace the ignition with GM-Delco stuff or what ever you could get at some auto parts place? There's been some issues with aftermarket ignition parts not working correctly.

The only other thing I've heard about keys being stuck to the "on" position is on some GM lines if you have a real low battery, it'll cause the ignition to stick to the "on" position. Since you say the car is running fine, I'd doubt this to be the case.

Hello,

I have a 2003 Malibu, 3.1L with about 19K miles on it. A couple of weeks ago the theft system started acting up much like others have described. I go to start the car and when I turn the key to "RUN" I notice that none of the idiot lights come on and the only light displayed is "Theft System". If I try to start the car at this point it will just turn over, but not fire. If I jiggle the key around the idiot lights will come on and then the car will start and run just fine. However, it seems like most people will have a flashing "Theft System" light and mine comes on and stays on. My question to anybody kind enough to answer is do you think cutting the yellow wire on my ignition switch and installing the switch or resistor will fix my problem or do you think something else is wrong with my car?

Thank you.

Hello,

I have a 2003 Malibu, 3.1L with about 19K miles on it. A couple of weeks ago the theft system started acting up much like others have described. I go to start the car and when I turn the key to "RUN" I notice that none of the idiot lights come on and the only light displayed is "Theft System". If I try to start the car at this point it will just turn over, but not fire. If I jiggle the key around the idiot lights will come on and then the car will start and run just fine. However, it seems like most people will have a flashing "Theft System" light and mine comes on and stays on. My question to anybody kind enough to answer is do you think cutting the yellow wire on my ignition switch and installing the switch or resistor will fix my problem or do you think something else is wrong with my car?

Thank you.

Any warranty left.
If no other lights coming on.
May be a ign switch or just a wiring problem.
I would check it out first and try to find the problem.
MT

Any warranty left.
If no other lights coming on.
May be a ign switch or just a wiring problem.
I would check it out first and try to find the problem.
MT

There is no warranty left. Do you have any suggestions on how I could find out if it is a wire problem or a bad ignition switch?

There is no warranty left. Do you have any suggestions on how I could find out if it is a wire problem or a bad ignition switch?

Get a good wiring diagram and a 12 volt test light and check for 12 volt power to and from ign switch.

Hello,

I have a 2003 Malibu, 3.1L with about 19K miles on it. A couple of weeks ago the theft system started acting up much like others have described. I go to start the car and when I turn the key to "RUN" I notice that none of the idiot lights come on and the only light displayed is "Theft System". If I try to start the car at this point it will just turn over, but not fire. If I jiggle the key around the idiot lights will come on and then the car will start and run just fine. However, it seems like most people will have a flashing "Theft System" light and mine comes on and stays on. My question to anybody kind enough to answer is do you think cutting the yellow wire on my ignition switch and installing the switch or resistor will fix my problem or do you think something else is wrong with my car?

Thank you.

That particular symptom sure sounds like a bad ignition switch. It's very common on these cars.

Thank u so much i cut the yellow wire while it was running no more problems

I too was having the frustration of the 10 min. wait for GM's thief deterrent system screw-up( about twice a day!).
I read about the fix where you cut the yellow wire on the ignition switch and install a toggle switch.
I was ready to do the fix ,but I thought I would try one other wild shot. I have 2 sets of keys, 1 used 99% of the time , the other like new. I went to Lowes and had 2 new keys made from like new one.
Went to the parking lot and tried the new key. It has worked, without a single problem for 3 months now!! It may not work for you, but its worth a try ( new key $1.97) I drive a 1998 Malibu which I brought new.

I doubt that'll completely solve your problems. These systems seem to behave differently with heat and humidity. So, when that changes again, I bet you'll have the same problem. I hope I'm wrong though!!!

The problem I have is that my malibu will not start because of the passlock. I am not getting any fuel when I try to start the car. Is there any way to get the car started once it is in this mode ??


Yeah, I'm not so sure that the toggle switch is original equipment. As for disabling Passlock 1 or 2, it can be done fairly easily. I did this to my 2002 Olds Alero with Passlock 2. Yours is apparently Passlock 2 also according to these photos that follow. You don't have to install a toggle switch, but I would suggest it in case you go to a dealership for service and they need the Passlock re-enabled. I'm sure they will try to tell you that you shouldn't do this. You can just print out this article to educate them on their own system. The BCM is already programmed to go into "fail-enable" mode when the key reference circuit (yellow passlock wire) is broken (cut) while the engine is running. That's the key ---- while the engine is running. The security/anti-theft light will come on and stay on until the circuit is repaired. Your Passlock is now disabled. Just don't repair the circuit (reconnect the wire) unless absolutely necessary. I have read where others just tape up both ends of the cut yellow wire and leave it that way. This probably works fine, but I like the idea of being able to repair the circuit by the flip of a switch. (Just in case.)

This is the MOTOR AGE article describing "fail-enable" mode:
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/data/articlestandard/motorage/292005/169809/article.pdf
page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.

Here are 2001 Malibu photos to help you get to the Yellow Passlock 2 wire to cut it while the engine is running. Read the directions below each photo. By the looks of these photos, you should probably go ahead and start your car with your key (no keyring or keys attached) so you won't have to figure out how to start it with the Switch in an unsecure position later in the process.

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=761&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=762&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=765&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=766&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=768&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=769&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=772&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=775&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=777&link=BULLDOG

That yellow wire is the one to clip while the car is running! Incidentally, Malibus, Grand AMs and Aleros are all having the same Passlock problems. Coincidentally, we all have the same part # for the Ignition Lock Cylinder. A Passlock sensor is built into this cylinder. If this sensor goes bad, you have to replace the entire Ignition Lock Cylinder. GM is making a killing and so are the dealerships. I'm not knocking the Certified Technicians, they are just doing what they are trained to do. How can anyone deny that this part is defective? If you are tired of having to wait to start the car that you worked so hard to buy with your own money, you should be able to disable the Passlock if you want to. This is just one way to do it. Here is the Ignition Lock Cylinder part # and I hope this disablement will really help some of you.
1999 - 2004 Alero
1997 - 2003 Malibu
1999 - 2004 Grand Am

The GM part number is 12458191.

No. Once the PK2 system has been tripped by not seeing the correct resistance, the only way to get it to start is to get the proper resistance OR pick a resistance code out and relearn it to the BCM.

My o3 malibu has the passlock and the theft deterent light comes on whenever it wants to while driving so far only refused to start once had to reset system 10 minutes with key on and then turn off and start car. The light stayued off for several days aftyer that now it comes on every day while driving any suggestions. Do not want a light on dash as my daughter drivers this car sometimes and would freak out

Yep, do the toggle switch or resistor trick that's been mentioned on here a lot!!!

I have 2001 impala with the same problems about a year ago. I added the toggle switch and the procedure worked great. The car sat for a couple of months and ofcourse the battery died, i charged the battery and now im having the same problem again. I try to start it but nothing happens even with the toggle switch in the off or on position. The information center on the dash does not work , the interior lights and radio dont work it seems like im only getting partcial power because the windows seem to be working. When I turn the key i can hear the fuel pump working and a clicking noise coming out of the fuse box located on the driver side of the dash.

That sounds like either a bad ignition switch or even a bad BCM which both are very common.

Ok I am rereading this for about the 8th time rcking my brain on how to get my car back to running without going to the dealership. I did the bypass back in Jan.-Feb. but I did not do a toggle switch or resistor I just cut and taped the wires. Which worked great until my battery died (not sure why it died). Now the car with not crank at all. The dealership said that its in failsafe mode and thats 70 to fix not including towing charges. So I am trying to come up with ideas on how to fix this at home and save some money.

Here is what I have tried so far. The key to ACC for 11 mins x 3. But after reading futher I read it is suppose to be to the ON position for 11 mins x 3. So I will give that a try. I have a new battery and a speed charger so that should not be an issue.

I tried reconnecting the yellow wires and still nothing.

I am sure there are other I have tried but I am not drawing a blank. SO does anyone know of anything else that might work. Like is there a typical range of resistor values for the anti theft that I could try to get the car to crank. Or at least make an attempt to crank. Anything to let me know that I am on the right track. Or is my only option going to the dealership (or anyone else that can reprogram the bcm whatever) and getting this reprogrammed. Is there no way to get the codes back without going to a garage to get this to work.

I have a 98 Malibu LS V6. No other issues other than this.

Any remote start stuff on it?
Remove toggle switch and put it back to OEM set up.
Then try relearn.
The relearn is as follows.
Clear all codes with a scanner.
Turn key on until security light goes out about 10 minutes.
Turn key back off and then on for a while and it should relearn and start.
If security light stays on after the last key on or no start
See what code the scanner resets.
And post back code.
MT

Any remote start stuff on it?
Remove toggle switch and put it back to OEM set up.
Then try relearn.
The relearn is as follows.
Clear all codes with a scanner.
Turn key on until security light goes out about 10 minutes.
Turn key back off and then on for a while and it should relearn and start.
If security light stays on after the last key on or no start
See what code the scanner resets.
And post back code.
MT
Well my coder has not pulled up anything at this point. The wires are already back together. How many times should I turn it on for?

Oh meant to add no remote starters on the car. I just did the bypass when I was having issues with the passlock.

Well my coder has not pulled up anything at this point. The wires are already back together. How many times should I turn it on for?

Oh meant to add no remote starters on the car. I just did the bypass when I was having issues with the passlock.

Have you removed the bypass and put it back OEM?
Have you cleared codes and see if any returns?
Reread my first post on the relearn for it.

Tell us if the security light goes out after key on bulb test or just stays on.
MT

Have you removed the bypass and put it back OEM?
Have you cleared codes and see if any returns?
Reread my first post on the relearn for it.

Tell us if the security light goes out after key on bulb test or just stays on.
MT

There are no codes when I use my code reader. I will try the relearn again (this time in the ON position and not ACC) tomorrow. My speed charger is in the husbands truck and I don't wanna kill the battery. Right now its back to being enabled. So no the light is not on. Just won't crank. Heck it does not even try to turn over. Yet everything inside the car works.

Well you've had the security light on for some time before and that's why you tried the bypass correct? Yes, cutting the yellow wire in 1/2 will put the car into fail-enable mode which you've found out. But, when you have to either jump the car or install a new battery the BCM resets. Now it won't start. Putting the yellow wire back together would work but only if the ignition decoder is working and it may not be.

If you need a resistance code I just did a bypass on a 2002 G-am yesterday. I put a 5320 ohm resistor on the cut end of the yellow wire going to the BCM and attached the other end to the black reference wire and also put a jumper from the black wire to chassis ground (because I have a feeling that's an issue too) Then I only had to keep the ignition on for 11 minutes and the light stopped flashing and went solid and the car started. Sometimes it take 2 or 3x though.

Ok I just did the relearn thing (ON for 11mins x3) nothing. I hear I guess the fuel pump kick on but no turnover. I guess I am to the point to try the resistor trick and then relearn or it has to go to the shop. Because I can not think of anything else to try.

If I try to crank the car (all the way to start position and let it fall back to off) the light goes off.

I will try and see if there are any codes when hubby gets home. But thus far there has not been any codes to pull so I doubt there will be one with our code reader.

BTW where is the BCM located at and does it have a fuse or relay that goes with it.

The relearn procedure is not key on three times.
The anti theft or security system does not shut down the engine starter.
If light comes on key on and then goes off ther anti thef should be working.
If engine does not crank over you have a starter or switch or battery problem.
MT

The relearn procedure is not key on three times.
The anti theft or security system does not shut down the engine starter.
If light comes on key on and then goes off ther anti thef should be working.
If engine does not crank over you have a starter or switch or battery problem.
MT

The dealership meachinic (sp) said that this particular security feature shuts down the starter etc. and that I have to get something reprogrammed to get it to work again. I have called several garages in the past few days and they call confirm the same thing.

The dealership meachinic (sp) said that this particular security feature shuts down the starter etc. and that I have to get something reprogrammed to get it to work again. I have called several garages in the past few days and they call confirm the same thing.


My repair info does not say anything about starter disable.
But it and me have been wrong sometimes.
But.
I would test the startter circuit and make sure the starter is working.

If the security light comes on for bulb with key on and then goes out you should have a go ahead on anti theft.

I have a 99 malibu and the theft light comes on every time i try to start it. how would i by pass it can i cut the yellow wire and use a resistor if so where do i connect the rersistor at

I have a 99 malibu and the theft light comes on every time i try to start it. how would i by pass it can i cut the yellow wire and use a resistor if so where do i connect the rersistor at

You have to have the right resistor value but yeah this is really what I would do. When I did it I just cut the wire (no resistor not toggle switch) and now I am having issue (1 year later) and the car is undrivable till I get this issue fixed. So if you have an ohm meter use it to get you resistance value.

i have ohm meter. How do i get resistance value when car won't start at all? and when i do where does the resister go 9what wires do i hook it to

i have ohm meter. How do i get resistance value when car won't start at all? and when i do where does the resister go 9what wires do i hook it to

Read this whole thread from the beginning and your questions will be answered.

what does BCM stand for?

BCM: Body Control Module

I would test the startter circuit and make sure the starter is working.



Just curious is there a way to test this at home (IE not taking it out and taking it to town) to test this?

Just curious is there a way to test this at home (IE not taking it out and taking it to town) to test this?

Yes
Check at starter.
Make sure it is in park gear.
Jumper small wire to the battery cable post on the starter solenoid and see if starter works.
Or if you can find the small wire to sstarter solenoid you can jumper 12 volts to it for a starter test.
If starter works get a test light and see if small wire at solenoid is getting 12 volts on key on start position.
If no 12 volts go back to neutral saftey switch or ign switch and check for start position voltage.
Also check all fuses you could have blowed a fuse.
Good luck
MT

Will the resistor work on a 2002 Olds intrigue?

I have read this entire thread and there is a ton of enlightening info here. I too am experiencing the passlock nightmare. the "theft system" light was on steady,cranked but no start.After trying the reset method in owners manual for passlock 2 with light remaining on and no start I began reading this thread. Since then I have tried all the methods suggested still no start. I checked the resistance from the reference wire(black) to the data wire(yellow) after cutting, I did this by turning the key to start with the vehicle in reverse. I read 1760 ohms( checked 2X) after installing the resistors(1750 measured) the light has gone out. I tried the reset/relearn steps again and still not starting. could the R value be wrong or is the problem something else, BCM maybe? Please help this is just the latest battle with this car. This is an 04 Malibu classic 2.2, auto trans, 150k, no reader so no codes, recent work: brakes, new cylinder head complete, exhuast manifold. If it is the BCM will I be able to use the relearn or does it need to go to the dealer for reset? I have not been able to get it started since the light first came on,or since the light has gone out.

Sounds like it could be a BCM issue since you say the theft light is now out. Is the car cranking then stalling like it's out of gas? Check to see if you have fuel at the rail by having the ignition on then pressing the valve in with a small screwdriver. Can you hear the fuel pump at all?

Bump.

Will the resistor mod work in an Intrigue?

Yes.

Thanks, I'll give it a go. It is to install a remote starter in it.