Passlock System

Why does everyone insist on doing the toggle switch???? To answer your question, yes. The light will always be on and once the system totally takes a crap you'll never start your car again. The better method is to use matching resistors and wire them inline like I constantly say to. This way if your car's battery goes dead or you have to change the battery, it'll start back up. With the toggle switch the system can fail perminately which will cause you a very big headache if the car's battery ever fails or you lose power to the bcm.


I have a 2002 Alero,In my manual they refer to this system as a disabler, It doesn't only work for anti theft purposes but disables the ignition when service lights are ignored....Does this cutting the yellow wire and adding a toggle switch work for my car ?? I am sooooo tired of this damn thing going off for no reason...I am a health care worker who drives from home to home and having to wait an extra ten minutes between clients cuts into my paycheque.
Anyone with any help or answers would be sooo appreciated.

I have a 1997 chevy malibu, my theft sytem came on yesterday, but i need a new engine put in my car. Once a new engine is install, would this cause the theft system problem to go away.

I have a 1997 chevy malibu, my theft sytem came on yesterday, but i need a new engine put in my car. Once a new engine is install, would this cause the theft system problem to go away.

No, as the problem is NOT with, or, in your engine. And chances are you're not really getting a completely "new" engine... You're prob. getting a gasket changed, or new heads or something - I seriously doubt that getting the engine replaced in your car would come out financially possible, as the work alone would prob. cost more than your car is worth since its a 97. (Just food for thought).

If you are indeed going to have an engine swap most of the time it seems the problem gets worse. I have not had the time to mess with the older PK1 system to see if it can be bypassed too. Only VATS and PK2 I can do.

No, as the problem is NOT with, or, in your engine. And chances are you're not really getting a completely "new" engine... You're prob. getting a gasket changed, or new heads or something - I seriously doubt that getting the engine replaced in your car would come out financially possible, as the work alone would prob. cost more than your car is worth since its a 97. (Just food for thought).
__________________________________________________ ___________
I feel the same way about the engine being the engine and the thelft system being the theft system. But I called up a junk yard shop and asked them about swap my engine and I also told them about the theft lock problem i have.... They told me once the engine is swap it would some how reset itself..........But I live in Philadelphia there are alot of crackhead mechanics whom are more experience than you local pepe boy mechanic, so labor here can sometimes be dirt cheap......

The shop price was $800 for getting and putting in the engine......... Plus i didn't pay for the car............It was a given to me because of the engine problem.

An engine that is ran by the PCM is totally different than the BCM which controls the theft system.

I am getting a little scared here now because I read somewhere that if you remove the battery while the car is in theft system mode, then the car is totally screwed..........So other words when this guy swap the engine and go to cut the car on the theft system problem will only get worst........

You got it.

Can a new car key cause this problem, reason I am asking is, because I lost my orignal key car key. I never had any problems with the orignal key. I only had the new car key for about 3-4 days before it caused my car to go into this theft system mode. I noticed the origanl key a little circle on the top of it, and the new key didnt have that..................

I think my battery has died due to the cold weather,while in theft system mode...........Are you sure only a GM dealership can fix this; not even a first class alarm system person can fix this.......................

LOL, I went and got the battery charge up, and once I install the battery; I got into the car and turn the key and the car can on...............LOL, maybe I just had a dead battery the whole time or dissconnecting the battery made it reset itself?????????????

I had same Problem ---The Man said His 2003 Malibu would not start;starter would turn Eng:---The passlock was the Culprit-key on wait ten Minutes-key off then started;
Thanks Your Info save that elderly Man Money:

I just replaced my ignition lock cylinder but the car will only start for a second then it shuts off, anyone help?

I just replaced my ignition lock cylinder but the car will only start for a second then it shuts off, anyone help?

You need to verify that the PK2 system is operating correctly. If it is, you can try to do the Passlock relearn sequence and see if it'll take or not.

I am trying to do the bypass using the resistor method on 2002 Pontiac sunfire 5sp manual, but I can't seem to get a reading on the meter to find out what resistor (s) I need.
Where am I going wrong?

I followed the below procedure :

(1) Start car
(2) Cut yellow wire (security light comes on)
(3) turn car off
(4) strip yellow wire ends and part of black wire.
(5)meter between yellow (going to ignition switch) and black ground for resistance as I start car
(6) (security light is still on)
(7) turn car off
(8) solder correct resistor between yellow (going into dash) and black
(9) start car (security light is off)

Try a 2.2K 1/4 watt resistor. Once you complete the installation procedure go through the 10 min. reset process. Your car will learn the new reistance value. If you were able to read and duplicate the original resistance you would not have to go through the relearn process.

When I bypass Passlock II when doing remote starters- I do essentially the same thing you describe with the resistor-- only that I use a relay to activate the new resistive circuit. The reason is that at rest (key off) that circuit shows 5 volts- and I am afraid that with just a resistor in there- that I would always experience an amp draw- although a small one- I am fearful it would run the battery down after a while- So I wire it so the resistor only see voltage when the ignition is on-- which is how I believe the car does it. Have any of you who have wired there permanent resistors in place ever done an amp draw test (at the battery) to prove this out? I would be curious if a car that has been permanently bypassed this way can start after sitting a week or so... Just my thoughts....

Try a 2.2K 1/4 watt resistor. Once you complete the installation procedure go through the 10 min. reset process. Your car will learn the new reistance value. If you were able to read and duplicate the original resistance you would not have to go through the relearn process.

Ok I tried that and the car ran but the "theft" light stays on.
I see ponch has found between 3k to 5k ohms work best. I've got a 5pk of 2.2k resistors , should I try 2 then "relearn" and see if the light goes out?
Or is there a way of getting an actual reading with the ohm meter that I've overlooked?
Also if I cut the resistor loose does the car need to be running when I do it?
Thanks!

Need help quickly.

First of all I couldn't get the car to ever start the first time. I would have to let it sit for ten minutes and then start it.

So, I couldn't get a reading. I then decided to install a 2.2k 1/2 watt resistor. Is it ok that I used a 1/2 instead of 1/4?

Well after I installed it, it will now start everytime but run for about two seconds and then die and the anti theft light will flash.

I have tried three times. What is the actual learn procedure. Do I try to start it after each ten minute interval, or do I just go on for ten minutes then off, and then right back on three times? I need help quick. Any advice is appreciated.

Oops! Never mind. I went back and checked and the problem was that I installed a 22k resistor instead of a 2.2k resistor. I spliced in the right resistor this morning. Let it sit for ten minutes and now it starts every time without a problem. Thanks to all of you for your help.

I would try the 2.2K resistor instead of duplicating the resitance in the system. Please post results when done. I have a remote starter in my 2002 Grand Am and if I develop passlock problems the car should start by activating the remote since a bypass module is installed in the ignition circuit. The bypass is only active when remote start is activated.

Hi all,

Really late to this thread but great info. My '99 Grand Am has been pissing me off again today with the wonderful Passlock System. Flashing light, wait 10 minutes to be able to start my own car.

Would I be safe to do the yellow wire mod that is referenced way back at the beginning of this thread? My car is 10 years old and I'm not worried about anyone stealing it. If I have to replace the battery I can just splice the wire to start it up and then take it off again right?

I did email the cac@Pontiac.com address today so we'll see what BS they come back with.

okay hello and greetings from nevada

I have a '00 malibu v6 auto trans.
currently its sitting in a walmart parking lot not starting
we get the crank crank crank.

I have 0 dash lights not even the millage nor the theft light.
I have had the theft light thing happen before and it would run great for a year or so

so
am I looking at replacing the ignition switch/assy?

I hate the car more than anything.

and do not want to dump another $500 into it.
any help would be great
thank you

Dan

Just posting from my own experience. I've tried everything in this posting to avoid going to the dealership to spend money on fixing this problem. I've used the toggle switch, I've used the other key, I've removed a remote starting system, purchased a new battery, I've had the dash apart numerous times. I've drove it around for a few weeks when it would not even start. I would literally have to pull the cables off the battery for a minute, reconnect, and then it would run, but who knew if it would start next time. I was finding myself popping the hood and disonnecting and reconnecting more than I wanted to.
-Remedy- Take it to the dealership, they hooked it up, diagnosed it to be the BCM, body control module, no more problems. Car has been fine for the last 6 months. If you do enough reading, this whole anti theft device is tied back to the BCM. They had it done in a couple of hours, most dealerships stock that part, who knows why they go out, but it is common after or around 100,000 miles. Cost $400.00... There was no key issue at all, it was all in the BCM, I also had the anti theft light come one.
Just sharing my story...

okay hello and greetings from nevada

I have a '00 malibu v6 auto trans.
currently its sitting in a walmart parking lot not starting
we get the crank crank crank.

I have 0 dash lights not even the millage nor the theft light.
I have had the theft light thing happen before and it would run great for a year or so

so
am I looking at replacing the ignition switch/assy?

I hate the car more than anything.

and do not want to dump another $500 into it.
any help would be great
thank you

Dan

Your problem is probably beyond just a passlock or an ign switch problem since your instrument panel is inoperative, although it could be the ign switch. Have you checked all fuses to the instrument panel and ignition? With a Tech2 it would lead you to the problem. Without that, it would probably end up being a lot of probing of connecters and substituting expensive parts and even if you did find the problem, say the BCM is bad, you couldn't fix it anyway without a tech2 to reprogram the replacement and the PCM. Probably towing it to a dealer for diagnosis will be the cheapest route in the end.

Anyway if you haven't yet check all fuses especially ones labeled "IPC", "BCF", "BCF/IGN or IP, check all fuses to see if any are blown. It's probbaly not a fuse but you never know till you check.

Edit: Hey serkski, I didn't see your post till after I posted, yet it looks like we are in agreement pretty much.

yeah fuses are good the pannel comes on some times thinking that the switch is toast
and i dont wana think about dealers....

Your problem is probably beyond just a passlock or an ign switch problem since your instrument panel is inoperative, although it could be the ign switch. Have you checked all fuses to the instrument panel and ignition? With a Tech2 it would lead you to the problem. Without that, it would probably end up being a lot of probing of connecters and substituting expensive parts and even if you did find the problem, say the BCM is bad, you couldn't fix it anyway without a tech2 to reprogram the replacement and the PCM. Probably towing it to a dealer for diagnosis will be the cheapest route in the end.

Anyway if you haven't yet check all fuses especially ones labeled "IPC", "BCF", "BCF/IGN or IP, check all fuses to see if any are blown. It's probbaly not a fuse but you never know till you check.

Edit: Hey serkski, I didn't see your post till after I posted, yet it looks like we are in agreement pretty much.


I agree, check your fuses first, they would be the simpliest, but they rarley do ever end up being the problem. I would save yourself the headache and take it in. I'd put money on a bad BCM. It is quick and easy to change, just above your left foot when you're sitting in the drivers seat, but it does need to be programmed for your mileagle, car options, motor, these types of things. It's basically something the dealer can only program. I'm not really familiar with the tech 2 tool, maybe if you knew someone that was a mechanic they could program it for you? For a cheaper alternative... Here's a link to one for sale on e-bay. Good luck...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVROLET-98-99-MALIBU-Body-Control-Module-BCM-3-1-L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQi temZ200275938869QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ 5fAccessories
Its a used one, I wonder if you could just throw it in and go?

yeah fuses are good the pannel comes on some times thinking that the switch is toast
and i dont wana think about dealers....
Don't think the switch... I know it seems like it is probably the switch, but that damn BCM is a big computer chip that controlls all. Mine would actually start acting up when it was super hot out, really didn't have much of a problem in the winter months up here in michigan, but for some reason when it was hot out (summer months), it would act up real bad. Have you noticed other things that have gone out? Door lock, windows, any electrically controlled components. My door locks actually went out before I had the big no start problems. After replacing the BCM, everything was just like new/back to normal. Don't think that it's that switch... I'm tellin ya, BCM... Good luck man... Let us know when you do get it figured out/diagnosed...

I agree, check your fuses first, they would be the simpliest, but they rarley do ever end up being the problem. I would save yourself the headache and take it in. I'd put money on a bad BCM. It is quick and easy to change, just above your left foot when you're sitting in the drivers seat, but it does need to be programmed for your mileagle, car options, motor, these types of things. It's basically something the dealer can only program. I'm not really familiar with the tech 2 tool, maybe if you knew someone that was a mechanic they could program it for you? For a cheaper alternative... Here's a link to one for sale on e-bay. Good luck...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVROLET-98-99-MALIBU-Body-Control-Module-BCM-3-1-L_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQi temZ200275938869QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ 5fAccessories
Its a used one, I wonder if you could just throw it in and go?

Sorry, thought it was a "99" for somre reason, but here is a link to a 2000 model BCM, see if your ID#'s match, maybe you can throw it in and go without reprogramming?

Sorry, thought it was a "99" for somre reason, but here is a link to a 2000 model BCM, see if your ID#'s match, maybe you can throw it in and go without reprogramming?


Opps, Here's the link for the 2000 year BCM...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-MALIBU-BCM-BODY-CONTROL-MODULE-COMPTER-ID-9360169_W0QQitemZ200145715451QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMo tors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?_trksid=p4506.m20 .l1116

Good luck...

I don't think a used BCM will work without being reprogrammed. If the problem is the BCM the used one might get your IP working but the BCM will send the wrong code to your PCM and it won't turn on the fuel injectors. There's a relearn procedure but I don't know if that will make the PCM recognize the replacement BCM. I think you can reprogram a used BCM, but dealers usually only like to put in new parts and they might say it won't.

If you can get a used BCM for real cheap, the PCM might (can say for sure) learn the BCM'S password after it triggers theft and you leave key on for 10 mins and crank it again, or it might start and the theft light will go into default override. It's easy to get to the BCM and if you can get a used one real cheap it might be worth trying. I think replacing the ignition cwitch is a lot more work.

well hell
I just got dont trying to see if there were any codes in the thing and nada everything says okay

looks like I will be doing the dealership bendover

dealer says $250 just to hook it up and see whats wrong, and that yes they do alot of these

the wife is asking me how much to make it go... I have no clue and nor do they

well hell
I just got dont trying to see if there were any codes in the thing and nada everything says okay

looks like I will be doing the dealership bendover

The thing is without an advanced scanner like the tech2, it wont read body codes. What kind of scanner was it you used?

$250 just to hook up or even to diagnosis sounds totally unreasonable. Normally diagnosis would run under $90 at a dealer. I would call another dealer. You can take a chevy to any GM dealer.

So when you turn the key to RUN you still get no instrument panel? What does it do when you turn it to crank? Does it crank OK but not start? Have you tried leaving the key in ON for 10mins, turn the key off and try cranking again? It probably won't help because you have a problem beyond the theft deterrent since you have no instrument panel activity.

well hell
I just got dont trying to see if there were any codes in the thing and nada everything says okay

looks like I will be doing the dealership bendover

I would check the cluster fuse for power both sides, no power to cluster fuse is usually ignition switch, electrical one.

yeah I thought $250 was a bit much too, but its the only game in town.

all the fuses are good the switch I am perty sure is toasted you can pull the key out when in the on mode,

yeah I thought $250 was a bit much too, but its the only game in town.

all the fuses are good the switch I am perty sure is toasted you can pull the key out when in the on mode,

well here is the story......
$42.00 for towing back to the house from wall mart. 10 min to hook up charger and power cords

3 min to pull the radio and ignition switch out

2 min wondering what the cable thing with the white plug in the back of it is,
pulled that out IP starts working lites gas gauge bells and whistals

hit the go button just on the pure chance.

car starts up just fine, and after I put all back togeather sans that cable in the back that locks what have ya....

I win win win win
:evillol:

well here is the story......
$42.00 for towing back to the house from wall mart. 10 min to hook up charger and power cords

3 min to pull the radio and ignition switch out

2 min wondering what the cable thing with the white plug in the back of it is,
pulled that out IP starts working lites gas gauge bells and whistals

hit the go button just on the pure chance.

car starts up just fine, and after I put all back togeather sans that cable in the back that locks what have ya....

I win win win win
:evillol:


Cool sounds like there's a bad connection at the the ignition switch or maybe a dicy ignition switch. That cable is so you can't take the key out without putting it in park first.

well when I unplugged that everything came alive
so what ever it is I am good
will still do the fix to it

I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 with the passlock system. At first I thought my problems were with the fuel system but after reading ALOT of these posts I believe the passlock system is faulty and why hasn't there been a recall on it? My system doesn't even work stopped around 90 thousand miles That was just the first time the dam car left me stranded for HOURS with my new born baby. Try to turn the car over and the gas guage read empty, security light flashed then stayed on, service light(hand with wrench) stays on. The second time (Apox 6mos later) going down the driveway just died. Same thing with the lights and won't cranck over for nothing. Towed it back up the driveway several hours later and the thing fired right up. This last time same thing got in tried to turn it over and gas empty, security light staying on, service light on. tried for hours nothing. I knew wasn't gas had 3/4 tank. On the advice of a 20 yr exp mec my guy switched the fuel relay with the blower relay this started the car right up haven't had a prob so far but I know it's a matter of time and I'll be kicking the tires again cursing ever buying a Saturn. Before that happens I'm going to go ahead and try some of the things I have read and see what happens.

I have a 2002 Saturn SL2 with the passlock system. At first I thought my problems were with the fuel system but after reading ALOT of these posts I believe the passlock system is faulty and why hasn't there been a recall on it?

Automakers don't generally recall things unless it's a safety issue ,or maybe if it has an extremely high failure rate early on. It would be nice if they'd recall any problem that has a high failure rate though.




My system doesn't even work stopped around 90 thousand miles That was just the first time the dam car left me stranded for HOURS with my new born baby. Try to turn the car over and the gas guage read empty, security light flashed then stayed on, service light(hand with wrench) stays on. The second time (Apox 6mos later) going down the driveway just died. Same thing with the lights and won't cranck over for nothing. Towed it back up the driveway several hours later and the thing fired right up. This last time same thing got in tried to turn it over and gas empty, security light staying on, service light on. tried for hours nothing. I knew wasn't gas had 3/4 tank. On the advice of a 20 yr exp mec my guy switched the fuel relay with the blower relay this started the car right up haven't had a prob so far but I know it's a matter of time and I'll be kicking the tires again cursing ever buying a Saturn. Before that happens I'm going to go ahead and try some of the things I have read and see what happens.


Your problem probably isn't the passlock. Your fuel guage not working and the service engine soon light was probably because of the relay giving out all along or something similar to that. The passlock bypass trick is really just a cheap fix for cars that are having passlock issues only. I wouldn't cut up the wiring when it seems you don't have a passlock issue.

I have a 2001 Grand Am. Just replaced the Ignition Cylinder. Did the 10 minute sequence. The car started. But this morning it didn't start again and the engine light comes on. Do you think the BCM needs to be replaced or the car still needs to relearn?

Well it might still need to relearn the new ignition cylinder, but if the check engine light came on and not the service vehicle soon or the theft light, then you have an engine trouble code you need to pull.

Could someone give me information on what to do.

My parents 02 Malibu anti theft has been replaced 3 times in 3 1/2 years.
It works good until after that wonderful 12 month warranty runs out.

Anywho its started acting up again, not being able to be started until 15 mins goes by.
However, there light stays on constant now, but still are having issues everyonce and awhile starting.

My question is before I try to do the resistor trick.
Should I try to relean it back in. the whole 33min trick?

What happens if the light still stays on?
Is it safe to do the trick?


Just want to make sure I do this procedure correctly since its my parents car.

Also, resistors usually have stripes, does it matter which end goes to the yellow wire or black?

My understanding is to cut the yellow wire in two pieces while the car is running?

Then turn the car off.

Attach a meter (+) to the yellow wire that goes to the ignition
Then the (-) to the black wire.

Crank car over to get a resistance..... 2.3 - 8.5 ohms it should read.

I'm confused about the yellow wire when adding the resistor.
Do you wire the two yellow wires back together attach the resistor there and then to the black?

Or do you wire the resistor to the yellow that goes to the BCM then to the black?
If this is the case, then what do you do with the other end of the yellow that goes to the ignition?

Please tell me I'm going in the right direction here.

Thanks in advance.

My 01 Malibu has the no-start problem too, although I am not sure if it's the passlock issue.
Here is the sympton:
1. if I turn the key to on, the 'theft system' light comes on, steady, not blinking; all the gauge don't work, dashboard lights are out. But I do have power, I can roll the window up and down, cd/radio works.

2. Continuing, I don't hear the fuel pump noise, and certainly it won't start. Sometimes when I get lucky and leave the key in there for a while, the dashboard lights come on, all gauges back to normal, 'theft system' light goes off and I hear the fuel injecting, then I can start the car

3. In one those 'lucky' days, sometimes the engine stalls when I am driving. It has happened 4 times, all after I make a turn, left or right.

I know this doesn't sound 100% like the passlock system, but could anyone please shed light? Could it be ignition switch or BCM?

I know this doesn't sound 100% like the passlock system, but could anyone please shed light? Could it be ignition switch or BCM?

That's what it sounds like to me, the ignition switch or the BCM and the circuits between. It's a hard diagnosis to do without a Tech 2 and a dignostic chart.

i am having problems with my impala it will not start at times i wait 15min and than it will start. did you put in a resistor where you cut the wires. i am trying to get someone to fix my car and just want to be sure what to have them do!

I did the resistor bypass and the car starts. However, now with the key switch in the off position the system will go into the aux mode with the slightest bump of the key switch. If I'm not careful, the battery will go dead. Does it sound like I need a new siwtch? Should I replace the switch or the cylinder? Is it a difficult job?

Thanks

HELP!

I still have the problem that I described above. But, I have a worse problem. I charged the dead battery, started the car, and now I can't shift into drive. It acts the same as not stepping on the brake. Any suggestion, my problem is now getting worse by the moment.

I hope someone can help me on this one because I am actually working on a 2000 Buick LeSabre and not positive if I have a Passlock Problem. I parked this car a few months ago and not the engine will not crank (among other things I will detail later). I also found out that a wrong key had been used to try to start the car. I went myself to start this car to sell it the other day and the engine will not crank and I found the battery was bad. I replaced the battery with a new one and still the engine will not crank. In addition I have other things that do not work.

Electric windows
Remote keyless entry
Remote trunk releast
Button inside car to release trunk


However things like these do work:
Electric seats
Head lights
Brake lights
turn signals
flashers

The security light on the dash does come on when the key is turned on but it goes off after about 3 or 4 seconds.
I have used a wiring diagram and determined that all the fuses are in good condition and power is getting through them to the relays necessary for start. I know that voltage is getting to the PCM through the ignition switch.

Now I am at a lose. Does the passlock kill power to all the areas listed above or am I working on the wrong thing. Also, how do I reset the security system to try it.

thanks in advance

hey how did you put the resistor in do you have the steps that you did for putting in the resistor if so can you send them to me!!!!!!

On top of the ignition switch there are three thin wires with black friction tape covering. The wires are black, yellow, and white. Cut the yellow wire in two. Strip the insulation from the middle of the black wire but do not cut the wire. Place the red clip from a multi-tester on the yellow lead going to the ignition switch. Place the black clip on the bare section of the black lead. Try to start the car and read the resistance (mine is 557 ohms). Go to Radio Shack and get as close as you can get. I placed a 220 and 330 in series. Solder the resistor(s) between the bare section of black wire and the yellow lead that does not go to the ignition switch. Tape everything up and you should be good to go.

This is on a 2000 Malibu. I can't be sure that all are the same colors and set-up.

On top of the ignition switch there are three thin wires with black friction tape covering. The wires are black, yellow, and white. Cut the yellow wire in two. Strip the insulation from the middle of the black wire but do not cut the wire. Place the red clip from a multi-tester on the yellow lead going to the ignition switch. Place the black clip on the bare section of the black lead. Try to start the car and read the resistance (mine is 557 ohms). Go to Radio Shack and get as close as you can get. I placed a 220 and 330 in series. Solder the resistor(s) between the bare section of black wire and the yellow lead that does not go to the ignition switch. Tape everything up and you should be good to go.

This is on a 2000 Malibu. I can't be sure that all are the same colors and set-up.

thank you very much will try it and let you know how i came out!:smile:

Thank You so much for this information...and ofcourse the pictures which helped (because I'm by no way a mechanic) I disabled my passlock in about 45 minutes...no toggle switch just taped the end of the yellow wire..no more real problems the lights on but atleast it starts. Thanks again!

i changed the switch in my car and the car now it still won;t start and the security light stays on won;t start but turns over how can i get the car to start to do this bypass on it

i changed the switch in my car and the car now it still won;t start and the security light stays on won;t start but turns over how can i get the car to start to do this bypass on it

The reistor bypass method mentioned earlier in this thread works like a charm. I did it to a 200 saturn Vue that wouldn't start. Just use a 2.2K resistor from Radio Shack and be sure to follow the directions exactly, especially the "relearn" procedure.

Good luck.

This forum is great. I have been reading for a few days, stated at the oldest post. My car 2001 Malibu has this problem also. My theft lock light stays on and no others come on. It has been getting worse every day. It also has stalled a couple of times on the highway. This morning it would not start, usually if I fiddle with the key the dashboard light illuminate, the pump turns on and it goes. This morning no way , so I tried the 10 minute thing. The theft light stayed on and nothing. I read some where someone could get it started by turning the key on and putting it into neutral and then start it. First try worked perfectly,. I started it 4 times like that later today. Thanks for all the info. My husband love the diagrams on cutting the yellow wire, great forum, thanks everyone and we will keep reading.:)
Jackie

This forum is great. I have been reading for a few days, stated at the oldest post. My car 2001 Malibu has this problem also. My theft lock light stays on and no others come on. It has been getting worse every day. It also has stalled a couple of times on the highway. This morning it would not start, usually if I fiddle with the key the dashboard light illuminate, the pump turns on and it goes. This morning no way , so I tried the 10 minute thing. The theft light stayed on and nothing. I read some where someone could get it started by turning the key on and putting it into neutral and then start it. First try worked perfectly,. I started it 4 times like that later today. Thanks for all the info. My husband love the diagrams on cutting the yellow wire, great forum, thanks everyone and we will keep reading.:)
Jackie

If it stalls running down the highway that's not security, you have another issue.
Glad to read the neutral start procedure worked, I might need it some day.

After putting up with this no start issue for the past few years, I finally found this forum and took my 2001 Impala in to a mechanic that said that he has experience with fixing this pronlem. So, lastweek I took it into the shop. They got my car to "act up" and put the code reading tool on it and it came back showing that it was the BCM, so they went ahead and replaced the BCM. I was happy to drop th $450 to fix this ongoing problem. Then, 1 week later, I was shopping and came back to my car that again didnt start, same problem....waited 15 minutes, and then it started. Now, what? What do I say to the mechanic? Could it have been the BCM and the passlock system simotaneously? Did he get the wrong reading? How much more will I be in for if I also replace the passlock system? HELP!!!:disappoin

Most likely problem is the connections where the wires from the module plug into the key assy. The pins get corroded and need to be cleaned and lubed. Other ideas will be coming along.