Passlock System

leaving the car sit for 15 minutes usually does the trick.

HELP!

I am new to this forum, but have already found it very helpful.

I too have a continuing Passlock system problem. It usually takes me 20 minutes to get my car started after the Theft System light comes on.

BUT, I have a new problem - both last night and again this morning, I started the car and about a minute into driving - the theft system light went on!

Will my car stop while I am driving? Will I be left in the middle of the highway?

Has anyone experienced this problem? What do I do?

Thanks!

HELP!

I am new to this forum, but have already found it very helpful.

I too have a continuing Passlock system problem. It usually takes me 20 minutes to get my car started after the Theft System light comes on.

BUT, I have a new problem - both last night and again this morning, I started the car and about a minute into driving - the theft system light went on!

Will my car stop while I am driving? Will I be left in the middle of the highway?

Has anyone experienced this problem? What do I do?

Thanks!


Welcome to AF on your first post.

I will give you a hint. If the light is on you will have a code set that will point you to the problem.
You need to get codes checked and post codes and.
It would be better to start a new post on you problem in the proper forum.
And give us all of the info you can.

Tips on getting a good answer to your questions.
People trying to answer your question do not have a crystal ball.
So give them all of the info you have like year make and model and engine and transmission.
Also service cars engine and transmission service history or any recent repairs or problems.
Also a good description of your problem and what it is doing or not doing.
If you have codes give up the code no.
And remember a code does not say replace the part but only points to the problem that you have to check out.
So to better help you give up all of the info you have on it.
MT

Thank you. I thought I was posting to the proper group - since my problem is with the passlock system.

And I don't understand the hint - I don't understand about codes.

As I said - I have had the same problem - having to wait 20 minutes to start my car - but I asked why the theft system light went on and stayed on after the car started.

Where and how would you suggest I post this question on the forum?

Thanks

Thank you. I thought I was posting to the proper group - since my problem is with the passlock system.

And I don't understand the hint - I don't understand about codes.

As I said - I have had the same problem - having to wait 20 minutes to start my car - but I asked why the theft system light went on and stayed on after the car started.

Where and how would you suggest I post this question on the forum?

Thanks

If the anti theft light is on you will have a code set in the body computer.
You need to get tthe code checked with a body computer capable scanner.
Good repair shop or dealer can check it for you
This post is old but you can read threw itfor info on it.
But You should start a fresh post on your car and problem.
To many different people on one post can get confusing with two many different answers.

You need to go to the forum of the car you have and look for the New Tread button upper left side and start a new post for your problem.
MT

The anti theft in my 2001 Malibu is acting up more than usual lately, i.e having to wait 10-15mins for the system to reset itself. At first it happened every few months or so but now it has happened 3 or 4 times in the last 3 weeks. I am thinking of disabling it. Is it possible and has anyone done it? If so, are there any tricks or tips at disabling it and if it is disabled will if effect anything else with the car?
Any advice is very much appreciated. HEY TRY TO RESET YOUR SYSTEM .
THIS HOW YOU DO IT .
1ST PUT KEY IN SWITCH
2ND TURN TO ACC LET IT STAY ON OF 11 MINS.
TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON TO ACC FOR 11 MINS.
TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON TO ACC FOR 11 MINS.
IT TAKES ABOUT 33 MINS TO COMPLETE P.S. DO NOT TURN
THE CAR ON ALL THE WAY JUST TO THE ACC WHEN TRYING TO RESET . AFTER THE 33 MINS IT'S OK TO START. YOU JUST RESET THE
SECURITY SYSTEM........... EMAIL fvalle@houston.rr.com

The anti theft in my 2001 Malibu is acting up more than usual lately, i.e having to wait 10-15mins for the system to reset itself. At first it happened every few months or so but now it has happened 3 or 4 times in the last 3 weeks. I am thinking of disabling it. Is it possible and has anyone done it? If so, are there any tricks or tips at disabling it and if it is disabled will if effect anything else with the car?
Any advice is very much appreciated. HEY TRY TO RESET YOUR SYSTEM .
THIS HOW YOU DO IT .
1ST PUT KEY IN SWITCH
2ND TURN TO ACC LET IT STAY ON OF 11 MINS.
TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON TO ACC FOR 11 MINS.
TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON TO ACC FOR 11 MINS.
IT TAKES ABOUT 33 MINS TO COMPLETE P.S. DO NOT TURN
THE CAR ON ALL THE WAY JUST TO THE ACC WHEN TRYING TO RESET . AFTER THE 33 MINS IT'S OK TO START. YOU JUST RESET THE
SECURITY SYSTEM........... EMAIL fvalle@houston.rr.com

Make sure to have a battery jumper or charger ready because the POS oem battery won't hold up to that.

My security light comes on and disables my car about once a year. Bypassing the system sure sounds like the way to go. I have found that cleaning the ignition switch with electronics cleaner fixes the problem until ignition gets dirty inside again. To clean ignition: wrap key with very thin paper or cloth, soak it with electronics cleaner and insert key and leave it in a few minutes. Remove key and cloth/paper and it will be black from dirt, etc. This has always fixed my problem until it gets dirty again. Takes about a year for it to happen again.

Important: Use tissue paper that will not come apart when wet with cleaner. I use the paper they put in some boxes of new shoes. You can buy the cleaner at large retail stores like WM.

I figure my car has to be similar to many other GM vehicles. I have never had any parts replaced concering this.

Using compressed air works as well too but eventually the magnets inside either wear out or move making the whole system dead therefore needing to be bypassed or repaired.

Just wanted to thank you, this bypass works great. The only problem that someone may encounter is if your battery goes dead, you need to have that lock cylinder work "one more time" to start the car, then disconnect it again. It needs to set that code to take the system off line. I did it for a friends car that was acting up. You can take it a step further and pull the dash and remove the bulb for the light too.

Thanks,

Dave Stierle
Chief Automotive Instructor
Automotive Training Center

Well, I just bypassed one the other day too. What I did was cut the yellow PK2 wire, stripped a little off of the black reference ground wire, put one lead from my ohm meter on the black ground wire and the other lead on the wire yellow wire going to the ignition switch. Then I put the car in gear and cranked it over. When you do that, the switch will send out what code it has been using. It came out to something like 6.21ohms. I then got some resistors that were about 6.25 and connected one end of the resistors to the cut yellow wire GOING to the BCM and the other end of the resistors to the ground reference wires. It started right up and the theft light went off.

To start with I have a 2001 Impala with NO chip in my key. I have read how to disable the passlock security after having the car running. Is there any way to temporary bypass the THING when it won't start without having to have the security light On all the time by using the cutting of the yellow wire trick? i.e. instant start!

To start with I have a 2001 Impala with NO chip in my key. I have read how to disable the passlock security after having the car running. Is there any way to temporary bypass the THING when it won't start without having to have the security light On all the time by using the cutting of the yellow wire trick? i.e. instant start!

Right. No PK1 or PK2 system has a "chip" in the key. It's all in the lock mechanism itself. It uses cheap little magnets inside it. Usually they get cruddy or even move if the cyl. is worn enough to rub up against them. That's why the problem is always constant.

PK3 vehicles like most of the newer Caddy's, and brand new GM vehicles do have a "chip" in the head of the key. You don't see it but there is one.

If you do what I did in my previous post you'll eliminate the magnets completely. Once you do it and it starts, it should be fine every time.

Well, I just bypassed one the other day too. What I did was cut the yellow PK2 wire, stripped a little off of the black reference ground wire, put one lead from my ohm meter on the black ground wire and the other lead on the wire yellow wire going to the ignition switch. Then I put the car in gear and cranked it over. When you do that, the switch will send out what code it has been using. It came out to something like 6.21ohms. I then got some resistors that were about 6.25 and connected one end of the resistors to the cut yellow wire GOING to the BCM and the other end of the resistors to the ground reference wires. It started right up and the theft light went off.

I like this method over the toggle, would it work on an '03 Impala?

Right. No PK1 or PK2 system has a "chip" in the key. It's all in the lock mechanism itself. It uses cheap little magnets inside it. Usually they get cruddy or even move if the cyl. is worn enough to rub up against them. That's why the problem is always constant.

PK3 vehicles like most of the newer Caddy's, and brand new GM vehicles do have a "chip" in the head of the key. You don't see it but there is one.

If you do what I did in my previous post you'll eliminate the magnets completely. Once you do it and it starts, it should be fine every time.


what ?

i was always told that passkey is with resistor in the key and passlock is with resistor in the cylinder only

what gives ?

what ?

i was always told that passkey is with resistor in the key and passlock is with resistor in the cylinder only

what gives ?
I think you have the VATS system mixed up with these newer systems. VATS had that chip you could actually see in the metal shaft of the key. The new PK3 keys use a chip that's embedded into the black head of the key.

You may have code #1626 but your car shutting off while driving isn't a symptom of it. Once your car successfully starts, VATS or Passlock can't shut it back down. You have something else going on as well.

Doing some research on my exact same problem I found this thread, but this post from ponchnutty really worried me. I have a Malibu LS 2001 and it has been having problems to start ... "Theft System" light on dash. Nevertheless, it has also ocurred to me like 6 times that the car is already running, I'm driving and suddenly it just dies. I put in Neutral and the car starts just fine! ... do you think it may be a problem with the auto-tranny? I am wondering if the computer keeps a log of all error messages ... just to make sure if it's passlock or other system the one with the problem.

Thanks for any comments on this.

Yes, any and all error codes will be stored but again, if the car just dies as you drive, it isn't a security issue. My guess would be a loose wire or connection somewhere. It could even be as easy as a loose/dirty battery cable. GM did have major issues with battery cables and batteries. The leads on the cables were too long and would crack the leads on the battery causing acid to leak inside the cables and rotting them out.

I assume you mean cutting the wire while the engine is running? Yeah, I had already made my modification before I found the UIB(Upfitter Integration Bulletin). It would have saved me some gas $. It's nice to have this bulletin as confirmation. I also wired my toggle backwards from the way it suggests. (On for Passlock Enable---Off for Passlock Disable.) Either way, it works.

Ray

Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club :smokin:

hey Ray-

Gosh i wish i would have found this website sooner as i just had my Alero taken to the shop today for this very same non-starting problem. I am going to print of f some things from here and take it to the dealer later this afternoon and show them all of this. I wonder what kind of reaction i will get? Well i know where to go if i have a future problems...thanks :)

CJ

HEY TRY TO RESET YOUR SYSTEM .
THIS HOW YOU DO IT .
1ST PUT KEY IN SWITCH
2ND TURN TO ACC LET IT STAY ON OF 11 MINS.
TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON TO ACC FOR 11 MINS.
TURN IT OFF AND BACK ON TO ACC FOR 11 MINS.
IT TAKES ABOUT 33 MINS TO COMPLETE P.S. DO NOT TURN
THE CAR ON ALL THE WAY JUST TO THE ACC WHEN TRYING TO RESET . AFTER THE 33 MINS IT'S OK TO START. YOU JUST RESET THE
SECURITY SYSTEM........... EMAIL fvalle@houston.rr.com


Has anyone tried this? Does it really work?

if that is what the systems needs it will work.
It is a relearn procedure for when the body or anti theft modules are replaced or it has lost it memory.
But it is key off to on not key off to acc for 10 or more minutes and the key off and repeat key on 2 more times.
You will need a good batery or a charger hooked up for the total 30 minutes key on.

You will need a good batery or a charger hooked up for the total 30 minutes key on.


Even if you turn off the radio and fans? Will it really drain the battery? Would it be safe to do the procedure then jump start the vehicle?

It's never recomended to jump a car. It'd be better to put a battery charger on it when you go to start the car. Now, if your PK2 system is at fault and stays at fault the relearn won't help you. The same thing is if it's intermittant (like most are).

It's never recomended to jump a car. It'd be better to put a battery charger on it when you go to start the car. Now, if your PK2 system is at fault and stays at fault the relearn won't help you. The same thing is if it's intermittant (like most are).

So if the problem is intermittant - which I think it is. Will reomving the battery negative terminal for 10 seconds clear the light until the problem starts again?

I can't stand the light but don't really want to shell out $400 for a repair that will just turn off a light. I have not had anyproblems starting the car.

So if the problem is intermittant - which I think it is. Will reomving the battery negative terminal for 10 seconds clear the light until the problem starts again?

I can't stand the light but don't really want to shell out $400 for a repair that will just turn off a light. I have not had anyproblems starting the car.

Black tape, I got rid of my 04 malibu orange MPH always on. It is there because you can change it to KM through the DIC.

Black tape, I got rid of my 04 malibu orange MPH always on. It is there because you can change it to KM through the DIC.

Thats good but now I have to figure out how to take off the screen that protects the instrument panel.

Thats good but now I have to figure out how to take off the screen that protects the instrument panel.

I put right over the shield, when the day comes that the cluster needs work then I will put it directly on the panel. Works for me.

will this work with04 chevy venture?

will this work with04 chevy venture?

Will what work?

i would like to know how to disable the passlock system in an 04 chevy venture and was wondering if the passkey 1 and 2 are simmilliar to the 3 or it is totally different?I've been using the hanes schematic but it's not giving me enough info can anyone help?

how do you bypass the pk3 system on 04 venture?

how do you bypass the pk3 system on 04 venture?

Is it PK 111+, is there a + on the metal part of the key near the plastic. If it is there is a transponder in the plastic part.

yeah, the PK3 is totally different. I think usually though the dealer changes out the decoder that's attached to the ignition switch. If you take your shroud off around the column, you'll see it right next to the ignition switch. It even says pk3 right on it.

it only has pk3 on the key.

IS there a way to disable the passkey system?

IS there a way to disable the passkey system?

Try here, PK 111 also has a transponder, not easy to bypass.
http://www.designtech-intl.com/accessories.asp

I have a 1997 Chevy Malibu 3.1L. No black chip on the key, no alarm system, no auto start system. I have experienced the problem of my Malibu not starting in that it will start and then die immediately. It did this once in 2004, once in 2006 and twice over the past month which now has me concerned. The only time I noticed the theft light was today. Even when I took the key out the theft light stayed on. As I sat for a bit I tried to start it a few times w/o success. After sitting for a bit I noticed the theft light went off. The key was in the ignition but in the off position. Once I noted the theft light was off I turned the key and the car started and stayed started.

I have read through the entire thread and I am a bit confused. I have read about bypassing by cutting a yellow wire while the car is running and about magnets in the lock cylinder being worn out. I know it will cost more to buy the part than bypass but will just replacing the ignition lock cylinder fix the problem just the same? Chiltons manual makes the removal/installation appear straightforward and the part looks like it is about $125 which is a reasonable price if I can do it myself and save labor at the dealer.

Also, how does the the old key still work after the ignition lock cylinder is replaced?

fisherdm, sorry but your BCM is bad. It's not the PK system although it could be on its way out too. I had a '01 S10 in the shop for the same thing. The security light would be lit even when the key was removed. If you unplugged the BCM it'd go out and you could get the car to start when you plugged it back in. Then, a few times later it'd lock up once again. After doing some scans it was found out the BCM was bad. After $423 in buying a new BCM, it was fine. That's been about 3 months ago.

Great thread great advice H ave 2002 malibu had problems with pass lock system had to have car towed to dealer in 2006 new ignition switch and some sort of control module don't remember excatly what the called it said they replaced. Last week car died again crank no start. had car towed to local service station. They claimed car started when it arrived. Station said battery was week and should be replaced had battery replaced and a relearn on security system. Next day car ran fine no problems. Second day ready to go to work car would not start same problem crank no start. Found this web site left battery disconnected over night next morning reconnected battery car started right up. Followed instructions and disabled passlock cut yellow wire. Did not bother with toggle switch I am not worried anyone will steal my car. No starting problems last 4 days Finnaly I think problem is fixed for good.

Thanks again raycorri

Great thread great advice H ave 2002 malibu had problems with pass lock system had to have car towed to dealer in 2006 new ignition switch and some sort of control module don't remember excatly what the called it said they replaced. Last week car died again crank no start. had car towed to local service station. They claimed car started when it arrived. Station said battery was week and should be replaced had battery replaced and a relearn on security system. Next day car ran fine no problems. Second day ready to go to work car would not start same problem crank no start. Found this web site left battery disconnected over night next morning reconnected battery car started right up. Followed instructions and disabled passlock cut yellow wire. Did not bother with toggle switch I am not worried anyone will steal my car. No starting problems last 4 days Finnaly I think problem is fixed for good.

Thanks again raycorri

The toggle is for easy rearm, if you disconnect the battery you will need to do the yellow wire cut again, with engine running.

well hello. i finally signed up because this site seems very thorough on what i am looking for.
I have a 2001 Malibu (4 door sedan 6 cyl 3.4 liter)with wouldn't you know it,the same problems. I have done this ACC thing too many times and now "when" the car starts i usually incure other lights being on, the radio/clock doesnt work, ac and heater and power windows and locks dont work and daytime running lamps. takes about 2 minutes and they kick on, but windows take up to 10 minutes.
i contacted the dealer i purchased and they said they have to hook up to diagnostic ($40) to make sure what it is but the service man said more likely it is the ignition switch passlock($300). what do you guys think?
i have a mechanic friend who is checking on it today and said he could do the fix if it was the above mentioned.
i sprayed my ignition with electrical cleaner about 5 hours ago when out and it started and everything worked but the check engine light and theft system lights are a steady on(not flashing). how do i reset this stuff? and should i even?
any help is appreciated.
also, what is this black chip on the keys people are talking about? if i have a passlock should i have a black chip? could that be the problem then?

The toggle is for easy rearm, if you disconnect the battery you will need to do the yellow wire cut again, with engine running.
Yep, if you just simply cut the yellow wire and didn't use the resistor method, if the battery is replaced or dies, the car will never start until it "sees" the correct code again.

This is true for the toggle switch too. The only way the toggle will work is if the rest of the system still works. The problem is that normally the decoder in the ignition switch fails so all you are doing is putting the car in "fail, bypass mode". So, if the decoder competely fails, you have to jump or change the battery and you try your toggle switch, the car still won't start because it'll never get the correct code. This is why using the resistor method is 99% failsafe.

well hello. i finally signed up because this site seems very thorough on what i am looking for.
I have a 2001 Malibu (4 door sedan 6 cyl 3.4 liter)with wouldn't you know it,the same problems. I have done this ACC thing too many times and now "when" the car starts i usually incure other lights being on, the radio/clock doesnt work, ac and heater and power windows and locks dont work and daytime running lamps. takes about 2 minutes and they kick on, but windows take up to 10 minutes.
i contacted the dealer i purchased and they said they have to hook up to diagnostic ($40) to make sure what it is but the service man said more likely it is the ignition switch passlock($300). what do you guys think?
i have a mechanic friend who is checking on it today and said he could do the fix if it was the above mentioned.
i sprayed my ignition with electrical cleaner about 5 hours ago when out and it started and everything worked but the check engine light and theft system lights are a steady on(not flashing). how do i reset this stuff? and should i even?
any help is appreciated.
also, what is this black chip on the keys people are talking about? if i have a passlock should i have a black chip? could that be the problem then?

You certainly need the whole switch replaced. There's no repairing it or bypassing anything. If the car isn't seeing all of the ignition or accessory wires being energized, it'll through the lights that you see on. Have your mechanic hook it up to his scanner and read the codes.

the electrical cleaner did a lot of good. well temporary. it has worked ever since, but i feel that i will have to have it replaced. but what is this black chip on the keys they are talking about, does that signify anything about the theft system not reading my key right?

is there anyone know how to disable the pk3 system in a 04 venture and if so please give me info?

i was told at one of these forums ( i dont think it was this one) to contact cac@chevrolet.com and complain. has anyone else done this? i sent them the same email everyday for 4 or 5 days and recieved a response. I am wondering if what i recieved was a typical response or if they might actually do something.

i was told at one of these forums ( i dont think it was this one) to contact cac@chevrolet.com and complain. has anyone else done this? i sent them the same email everyday for 4 or 5 days and recieved a response. I am wondering if what i recieved was a typical response or if they might actually do something.

Try the 800 customer service no in your owners manual.
Also your dealer service department may be able to help.
They will not go for a disable but may have some ideas on how to fix it.
Good luck
MT

will it work with a 1998 oldmobile cutlass?

the electrical cleaner did a lot of good. well temporary. it has worked ever since, but i feel that i will have to have it replaced. but what is this black chip on the keys they are talking about, does that signify anything about the theft system not reading my key right?
If you have a black chip in your keys (you can see a little pellet in the shaft, close to the head) you have the oldest version of the PK system. That pellet you see is actually just a resistor. There's only like 15 different values they used. When you insert the key, 2 fingers touch that pellet. One on one side and one on the other. Then the BCM reads the code.

One of the common failures is gunk in the ignition so squirting anything sometimes can work. Mostly just compressed air is all you need. The most common problem is the wires inside the column break. For that you either need to replace the ignition lock or bypass the system using a resistor with the matching resistance.

is there anyone know how to disable the pk3 system in a 04 venture and if so please give me info?
I haven't figured out anything as of yet. That system uses a transponder setup so there's no mechanical parts to bypass. The most common problem with that is the decoder ring that's around the ignition fails. Replacing that is usually all that is needed.

will it work with a 1998 oldmobile cutlass?
Yes, you have the PK2 system so doing the trick of cutting the yellow wire and putting a resistor between that and the ground will work.

Yes, you have the PK2 system so doing the trick of cutting the yellow wire and putting a resistor between that and the ground will work.
Will cutting the yellow wire and putting the resistor between work for Passlock 1 also? And what if you can't get the car started at all? What is a normal range of resistance? We were considering just started at the minimum resistance and going up, because we can't really get the car to stay cranked due to the passlock killing the fuel.:runaround:

EDIT: BTw this is for 97 Grand am GT

Nope, sorry. I haven't been able to try to bypass the PK1 systems. They are really wierd in the wiring. I know back years ago they were a major PITA to bypass for remote starters. I had a call on one about 6 weeks ago and I tried for about 2 hours to bypass it but couldn't get it to work. Not sure if it was me or the car. I don't think I was getting the bulb check wire to work properly. Read this link and it'll help you out. http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/accessories/2555111_555T_Installation_Guide.pdf You can take this info and try it out.

Nope, sorry. I haven't been able to try to bypass the PK1 systems. They are really wierd in the wiring. I know back years ago they were a major PITA to bypass for remote starters. I had a call on one about 6 weeks ago and I tried for about 2 hours to bypass it but couldn't get it to work. Not sure if it was me or the car. I don't think I was getting the bulb check wire to work properly. Read this link and it'll help you out. http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/ig/accessories/2555111_555T_Installation_Guide.pdf You can take this info and try it out.

Ah, well, appreciate your response. I'm not really looking to install a remote starter, but if I can't get this dang thing to crank any other way I guess I'll have no choice. :disappoin

well, you can't install a remote starter either unless this thing works at least 75% of the time because you'll need to get the resistance right. I meant to read and study that diagram to understand how the system works and may be how to bypass it.

well, you can't install a remote starter either unless this thing works at least 75% of the time because you'll need to get the resistance right. I meant to read and study that diagram to understand how the system works and may be how to bypass it.

(this is sorta copy/pasted from here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4864248#post4864248))
Well my roommate and I fooled around with it today, and we finally got it to crank! Several times. It wouldn't start EVERY time, though. In fact more times than not it wouldn't start at all, it would turn over and then just die. The THEFT SYS light was of course on. The only thing we did different was use a different key. The key we were trying the past couple days wasn't the one I've been using the past year or so, but once we went back to using that key it cranked every so often. We did get a reading, finally, 7.95 kW. We had tried many times before to get one but it turns out his ohmmeter was fuxxed. Hahaha. So we went and bought a new one and finally got that reading. We tried soldering the resistors together to that resistance and put them in there and the car would crank every so often, really no different than when it wasn't there.

Anyway since I CAN eventually get it to crank now, and can get a reading, would I be able to get the remote start? I guess I could call ahead of time and let the installer know the situation, or maybe try to install it myself. Anyone know how much the parts/labor run ?:shakehead

Nope, most shops won't touch it unless it'll start and run on its own. Labor and such I'm sure it'll be 2x more because of the known issues.

I've had the "theft system" problem for years with my 99 chevy malibu. I found this forum while searching for a solution to my problem- saw a solution, mulled it over for a few weeks, got stuck in parking lots in the 100 degree weather 3 times in one day, and the next day I did the fix.

Clipped the yellow wire with the car running, turned the car off, soldered a 3 dollar on/off switch from the Shack, left it in the "off" position, I've been a happy guy ever since.

The funny thing is, I heard on the radio just today a guy calling in with this exact problem. The shop guys immediately knew exactly what he was talking about and said, oh yeah, that's a GM thing, don't they have a recall on that yet, we see this all the time! Then they proceeded to recommend replacing the ingnition switch and lock cylinder. Now, I looked into doing that myself and it was about $300-350 so imagine what it would cost a shop to do it.

Anyway, point being, the swith thing works great. I've even turned the passlock system on and off to see if I did the wiring right- works like a charm. A million thanks to all who have help save me hundreds of dollars and the possible safety of my family.

As a side note, taking out the ignition assembly wasn't quite as easy as they say in the pictures posted in this thread. In the 99 Malibu LS there's a plastic bracket that lies between the ignition and the radio. I had to pull the radio out and the instrument panel as well to lift the ignition up and out. I've had to do this before so I was aware of the procedure- just thought I'd warn others who are wondering why they can't pull their ignition switch out through the radio slot.

Does this mean I'm also a member of the Anti-passlock Club too? Raycorri, you're my hero- really. Thanks.

had problem once i think you should disable, too many times will lock your trans. for good. 300-480 bucks to replace i know my mechanic told me and i even called chevy dealerships they offered the same advice.