Passlock System

:banghead: My wife's 2004 Chevy malibu classic's engine will not turn over. The head lights come on, the radio and a/c works but the starter does not turn the engine over. I have jumped it at the starter and it runs until I shut off the key. Does this sound like the passlock issue or something else.... it is driving me :screwy:. A reply would be much appreciated.

sounds like weak battery

Does the security light stay on or come on for a buld check and then go off?
Check start fuze and relay and neutral saftey switch and for start signal from ign switch.
Any remote start or anti theft stuff?

No remote start... Turn key to start position lights go out and radio digits go out. If I jump at starter vehicle will run and stay running until I turn off ignition key. If I try to start from key again it will not start.:banghead::screwy::banghead:

About a month or so ago we purchased a spare key from Home Depot could this be the problem possibly with the theft system>

Update on my wife's 2004 Chevy Malibu Classic there is no power to starter. Mechanic friend thinks it could be short to starter from ignition and/or ignition switch is bad. Any advice?:banghead: :screwy:

About a month or so ago we purchased a spare key from Home Depot could this be the problem possibly with the theft system>

I have a '99 malibu and I've been using a spare key that was made at an Ace Hardware store for the last couple of years. There were a couple of times that the Theft light came on and I couldn't start the car. After waiting 15 minutes, I was able to get it started. Also, there were times that when I would be driving and the light would come on by itself. After getting to where I needed to go, I would turn the engine off then restart with no problem, and the light was gone. A few weeks ago, this would happen more and more frequently until I couldn't start the car at all. I let the car sit for a while then decided to try one of my original keys. The car started up every time until I went to use the duplicate key from Ace. For the last 2 weeks, I haven't had a problem with starting or having the light come on when driving.

I had a problem similar to you except I did not use a new key. The theft light came on and the car would not start. After trying to reset the system with key on and waiting for light to go off I sprayed WD40 in ignition cylinder and so far have not had another instance of this happening

I have a '99 malibu and I've been using a spare key that was made at an Ace Hardware store for the last couple of years. There were a couple of times that the Theft light came on and I couldn't start the car. After waiting 15 minutes, I was able to get it started. Also, there were times that when I would be driving and the light would come on by itself. After getting to where I needed to go, I would turn the engine off then restart with no problem, and the light was gone. A few weeks ago, this would happen more and more frequently until I couldn't start the car at all. I let the car sit for a while then decided to try one of my original keys. The car started up every time until I went to use the duplicate key from Ace. For the last 2 weeks, I haven't had a problem with starting or having the light come on when driving.

If you have the resistor pellet in the key system.
You can test the pellet with a volt/ohm meter for the correct restiance.
The ohm resistance of duplacte key should match unused or a new origional that has not been used much.
It is always best to have the dealer make a duplicate key with his matching machine.

Also carrying the key in your pocket can wear off the pellet and lower the pellet resistance.
Mt

I have a 02 Malibu,

If I use the PLJX from here "http://www.passlock2.com/";, can I by pass the theft system without cutting any wires?

I tried to download a manual for PLJX, but can't figure out how to install it

Thanks advance for your suggestions!

ray what about a 1997 chevy lumina ? how would you jump the passlock? it drives me crazy some times ; i 've already replace the ing lock 3 times.

I have a 98 Isuzu Hombre, that will not start. Turns over but doesn't crank. Could this be the problem? It has new fuel pump and new ignition coil packs, everything seems good but will not crank.

Does the security light come on key on and then go off?

I bought the truck used, guy said he went to start it and it wouldn't crank. He thought it was timing belt. I tore it down found it was timing chain not belt and in time. I went ahead and put new timing chain tensioner and gears while it was apart. Tried to crank it before putting everything back on turned over for along time with me resting the starter and finally cranked. Put it back together and hasn't cranked since, about 18 months. But I noticed the security light stays on. I mostly work on older cars so didn't mean alot to me. Started searching after trying everything else mechanics told me try, I have a ton of new parts on it now, maybe this was all it was all along.

Security light comes on then goes off, when you try to crank it, it comes back on and stays on.

Light should come on for a bulb and go out when key is turned on.
Does it start and run a couple seconds then dye or just not start at all?

Have you tryed the auto learn procedure by turning key on and bump starter and then leave key on 10 minutes untill light goes out and then off and on for another 10 minutes untill light goes out.
Repeat 3 times and see if it will start?
Post back results.

I will try it. It doesn't crank at all.

Does not crank over with starter or does not start?

I have a 97 Malibu. I have experienced the problem of inability to start when Theft ligt is on. I now have no power in my panel so I do not know if the theft light is on or not.

Does anyone have any suggestions??

I have a 97 Malibu. I have experienced the problem of inability to start when Theft ligt is on. I now have no power in my panel so I do not know if the theft light is on or not.

Does anyone have any suggestions??


I would go over all fuse first thing.
MT

I have had them checked. All are okay. I have the same symptoms as when the theft loss light was on.

I have had them checked. All are okay. I have the same symptoms as when the theft loss light was on.

Did you check them for 12 volts key on power on both sides?

I had them checked on both sides

No matter how long I leave the key on the security light does not go out. Only when I try to crank it then it comes back on when I stop. I tried the learn system you spoke about still doesn't crank.

Now my 02 malibu has the theft light on all the time, it turned on one time , I had to wait for 10 mins, after that I can always start the car, but the light is never off.

I went to my mechanic, and he told me better not to clear the error code, otherwise I might have to wait for 10 mins again.

Now my car seems ok except the light is on all the time.

Can anyone tell me if there is a problem with it, for example what if my battery die, will my car never start again?

I have a 99 grand am 3.4. just like everyone else, i'm having passlock problems. the dealer want's a grand to fix it and they don't know if it will fix the problem. so i let a friend of mine look at it. he had it for a week and couldn't figure out what was wrong with it. so he gave it back and told me to burn the car.i just ordered a body-kit, hood and fenders for it so i want it to run. i wanna cut the yellow wire but don't know what kind or type(rating) switch to install. please let me know so i can be done with this passlock crap.

angry mechanic

hey also need a new pcm. i was looking at the digital horsepower pcm from pfyc.com was wondering if anyone has installed this or heard anything about it.


angry mechanic

i have a 2004 alero with crank no start security light on. tried to reset nothing happens. what else can i do.

i know the is a malibu forum but i have a 2000 impala that wont crank. i jumped the starter and the car will start and run for about 2 seconds and die. you can hear the fuel pump run when the key is first turned on. the key can be removed in any position, i would assume that it's going to have an effect on the passlock system. from what i've gathered on it the passlock has alot of problems. my question is.....if i get a new ignition switch..is it possible to "reset it" (10 min thing) or will a dealer have to do it since it would be a new set. when you first turn the key on it flashes from sec 3 times to batt and then to service. if i wait 10 mins the sec stays on solid, but no crank. so i cycle it off then on..still solid...do it(without waitin 10 mins) again then flashes again.(by the way i do have a charger on it the whole time) i would try the yellow wire mod it i could even get it to start.
i have a otc genisys scanner that i'll try to read any codes tomorrow, or foes it need OE software for the passkey?

and when you do the reset do you turn it to the on pos and try to start after 10 or just cycle off and back on 2 more time before trying to start?

any help would be great. this is an old police car and only has 20K on it, could be a cheap daily driver if it would ever start.

For those having issues with the PK2 system try this....

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=698862

Do not do what the guy says in the 2nd post. He doesn't know what he is doing and obviously got banned anyway.

If you can't get a resistance value and you car isn't starting then pick something around 2.3 to 8.5 ohms. At this point you'll have to do the PK2 relearn procedure. When doing this it is recomended to have a battery charger on because you need to cycle the igntion on for 10 minute intervals or when ever the PK2 light changes state from when you started doing this. When it changes, you need to shut off the car and then try to start it again. If it fails to start, leave the ignition on and do it all again. It usually takes 20 to 30 minutes to perform this. Somewhere on here there was a detailed instruction from a GM tech that spelled all of this correctly.

To the moderators, could you deleate that post from the banned person in the above link? He mislead people because if you do what he did and your car's battery goes bad, it'll never restart again until it sees that resistance code that's stored in the BCM.

I installed the toggle switch two days also. everything seems to be working fine. Am I to understand, that if my battery dies, i will not be able to restart the car regardless of the condition or postion of the toogle switch.

I installed the toggle switch two days also. everything seems to be working fine. Am I to understand, that if my battery dies, i will not be able to restart the car regardless of the condition or postion of the toogle switch.
You are correct. At that point it's dealer time and they love to charge an extra $300 to deal with your modification. The resistor trick will work 99% of time. The toggle switch works as well but like you stated, once the car's battery fails or the BCM gets reset, the car will not start. Plus, you'll have to see the PK2 light on all the time while you are driving.

I recently tried the Resistors on My Girlfriends 2000 Grand am, I checked the Resistance and came up with 1292 ohms, I purchased 2 Resistors 1-1000ohm and 1-330 ohm for a Total of 1330. I Soldered the resistors to the Yellow Wire going into the Dash and the other end to the Black Wire. I started the Car and the Security light was still on, I checked the Connections several times and everything checked out. Why was the Security Light still on?? I ended up putting it back the way it was until I found out an Answer to Why the Security light did not go out. Any ideas??

check your pm

Greetings,

Same Passlock problems as everyone else... blah, blah, blah... sad but that's GM. Here are few hints from the resolution on my 98,000 mile 2001 Olds Alero. I didn't have to take the radio or heater controls out... all I had to do was take out the two 7MM bolts that hold in the frame/bezel around the instrument cluster (Speedometer, Tack, Etc). They're located on the top of the bezel. Once the bolts are out put the Tilt wheel in the lowest setting and pull the frame straight towards you. Now unplug the Trip Reset button and you have all the room in the world to work on that magical yellow wire because it's sitting right there in front of you with enough slack to add wiring for a switch.

While I had the instrument cluster bezel out I ran the toggle switch wires over to the fuse box by the drivers door and installed the switch there. In a Grand Am we had the switch was right under the dash and occasionally got hit accidentally... nothing but trouble. With the switch now in the fuse box there's no way to accidentally hit it.

Using this method will take you minutes to complete and with no risk of damage to the radio, radio bezel or console plus you'll be comfortable working on it in the driver's seat rather than like a contortionist in the radio opening.

Greetings,

Same Passlock problems as everyone else... blah, blah, blah... sad but that's GM. Here are few hints from the resolution on my 2001 Olds Alero. I didn't have to take the radio or heater controls out... all I had to do was take out the two 7MM bolts that hold in the frame/bezel around the instrument (Speedometer, Tack, Etc). Once the bolts are out put the Tilt wheel in the lowest setting and pull the frame straight towards you. Now unplug the Trip Reset button and you have all the room in the world to work on the magical yellow wire because it's sitting right there in front of you with enough slack.

While I had the instrument cluster bezel out I ran the toggle switch wires over to the fuse box by the drivers door and installed the switch there. In a Grand Am we had the switch was right under the dash and occasionally got hit accidentally... nothing but trouble. With the switch in the fuse box there's no way to accidentally hit it.

Using this method will take you minutes to complete and with no risk of damage to the radio, radio bezel or console plus you'll be comfortable in the driver's seat rather than like a contortionist in the radio opening.

Greetings,

Same Passlock problems as everyone else... blah, blah, blah... sad but that's GM. Here are few hints from the resolution on my 98,000 mile 2001 Olds Alero. I didn't have to take the radio or heater controls out... all I had to do was take out the two 7MM bolts that hold in the frame/bezel around the instrument cluster (Speedometer, Tack, Etc). Once the bolts are out put the Tilt wheel in the lowest setting and pull the frame straight towards you - the two clips on the bottom will release. Now unplug the Trip Reset button and set the bezel aside... you have all the room in the world to work on that magical yellow wire because it's sitting right there in front of you with enough slack to cut and add the toggle switch wires.
While I had the instrument cluster bezel out I ran the toggle switch wires through the openning and over to the fuse box by the drivers door and installed the switch there. In a Grand Am we owned, the switch was right under the dash and occasionally got hit accidentally... nothing but trouble. With the switch in the fuse box there's no way to accidentally hit it.
Using this method will take you just a few minutes to complete and with no risk of damage to the radio, radio bezel or console plus you'll be seated comfortable in the driver's seat rather than like a contortionist in the radio opening.
By the way... the car does NOT have to be running to do this... just remember to swtich the switch to the "on" or "closed" mode when starting the car the first time. Once it's running, throw the switch to the "off" or "open" mode and the "security" light will come on. Repeat the process if you ever have to change the car's battery.

Greetings,
Same Passlock problems as everyone else... blah, blah, blah... sad but that's GM. Here are few hints from the resolution on my 98,000 mile 2001 Olds Alero. I didn't have to take the radio or heater controls out... all I had to do was take out the two 7MM bolts that hold in the frame/bezel around the instrument cluster (Speedometer, Tack, Etc). Once the bolts are out put the Tilt wheel in the lowest setting and pull the frame straight towards you - the two clips on the bottom will release. Now unplug the Trip Reset button and set the bezel aside... you have all the room in the world to work on that magical yellow wire because it's sitting right there in front of you with enough slack to cut and add the toggle switch wires.
While I had the instrument cluster bezel out I ran the toggle switch wires through the openning and over to the fuse box by the drivers door and installed the switch there. In a Grand Am we owned, the switch was right under the dash and occasionally got hit accidentally... nothing but trouble. With the switch in the fuse box there's no way to accidentally hit it.
Using this method will take you just a few minutes to complete and with no risk of damage to the radio, radio bezel or console plus you'll be seated comfortable in the driver's seat rather than like a contortionist in the radio opening.
By the way... the car does NOT have to be running to do this... just remember to swtich the switch to the "on" or "closed" mode when starting the car the first time. Once it's running, throw the switch to the "off" or "open" mode and the "security" light will come on. Repeat the process if you ever have to change the car's battery.

Well, here are a few of my thoughts on the Passlock system after reading the factory manual. First, I don't see the point of tying the yellow wire to ground using resistors. The system does not measure resistance, it works on voltage. Each ignition lock has a different code voltage based on the resistors in the lock. This changes the voltage sent along the yellow sense wire. Tying that wire to the black wire with resistors seems to be taken from some websites that deal with shutting off the Passlock system when installing an aftermarket starter or alarm. However, the key piece of information left out is that after measuring the resistance, the resistance is then programmed into an electronics box that is wired into the vehicle. Since this box gets 5V power from somewhere else in the vehicle, it doesn't tap into the reference voltage wire going to the switch. So, you'll probably get the same result of you just wire the yellow wire to the back wire. Or, you could use any resistor since you are going to "relearn" the system anyway.

In my opinion, you could achieve a voltage drop to fool the system by placing one or two diodes in series from the hot wire (or any 5 V wire) to the black wire. Typical diodes drop 0.7 V so this gives a 1.4 V drop - enough to fool the BCM after it is relearned. Make sure the diodes are placed in the right orientation. And note, you are not using this as a diode, just as a voltage dropping device. This is probably easiest to do by the BCM (located under the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle). Just my thoughts.

Finally, the relearn sequence (according to the factory service manual) is:
1. Turn the key all the way to start and then let it come back and stop at the run position. This assumes the car won't start.
2. Leave the key in this position until the Theft light stops flashing (about 10 mins.).
3. After the light stops flashing, turn key off for a few seconds and then you can start the vehicle.
I have found that sometimes the Theft light comes on after doing this procedure while driving and then goes out after a few minutes.

One final note, I checked the BCM on my 98 Malibu and found corrosion on some of the pins that corresponded to the Passlock system. I cleaned them off and recrimped these for a better connection and have not had a problem yet, but it has only been a couple of weeks.

Good luck everyone. Hope my ramblings are helpful to someone. I just thought some of the misinformation in the string might steer someone to the wrong solution.

You've got it sort of right. That yellow wire actually does have a small amount of voltage and when you put a resistor to ground on that wire causes the BCM to read that. I've tried just tying the one cut end of the yellow wire to the black reference wire then do a relearn but it wouldn't work. On vehicles that don't run at all I have found that a resistance between 3k to 5k ohms work best. Sometimes I don't use the black or orange/black (if doing a truck) because for some reason that's the problem. Instead I just take the other end of the resitor to chassis ground.

Y'know, after reading your post that sounds right. The system should give an error and not work if you give 0 V on the sense wire. It still seems that the resistor just ties the sense wire to ground, but there may be a small amount of residual voltage in the system. Thanks for the info.

Well, I haven't actually went all the way through it. I just happened to find a way around these PK2 errors. Technically from very high up on the design food chain at GM, doing the resistor trick shouldn't work. There is suppose to be a time sequence from when you first start to turn the key until when the correct code is sent. That's why on a working system, the correct code isn't transmitted until you crank it to start. The system is suppose to read that initial code then read it again when cranking it but, I've found these systems ignore the initial reading. That's why you can permenatly bypass it with resistors.

Furthermore, I'm sure there are vehicles out there that would be fine relearning the code at 0 ohms. It's just that I've tried it before but it didn't work. I'm usually under a time line so I can't always screw around it so I use what I know works.

Well I own a 1999 Alero and had the same Passlock problem for about a year now. I finally came across this wonderful forum and saw the post about cutting/disabling the system. So I did that, cut the wire behind the column and everything. Printed out the pictures and made sure I did it right. So after that it worked fine till recently. Its still not starting sometimes and left my wife stranded 2 times since I've been deployed. What else am I supposed to do? Any suggestions?

What exactly did you do? Did you install resistors? If so, you may need to recheck those to make they didn't fall apart. Also, if you didn't get the value dead on, you may need to fix that. The resistors actually will change their value a bit with heat and humity. If all the above is fine then try the passlock relearn sequence.

I just took these directions to my mechanic and it took them five minutes to disable the Passlock and they didn't even charge me. Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! I am sooooooo grateful for this.:smooch:

Anyway I had gotten these directions from an earlier post and like I said, it took my mechanic five minutes to do it and no more Passlock! Thanks to whoever posted these earlier!


Yeah, I'm not so sure that the toggle switch is original equipment. As for disabling Passlock 1 or 2, it can be done fairly easily. I did this to my 2002 Olds Alero with Passlock 2. Yours is apparently Passlock 2 also according to these photos that follow. You don't have to install a toggle switch, but I would suggest it in case you go to a dealership for service and they need the Passlock re-enabled. I'm sure they will try to tell you that you shouldn't do this. You can just print out this article to educate them on their own system. The BCM is already programmed to go into "fail-enable" mode when the key reference circuit (yellow passlock wire) is broken (cut) while the engine is running. That's the key ---- while the engine is running. The security/anti-theft light will come on and stay on until the circuit is repaired. Your Passlock is now disabled. Just don't repair the circuit (reconnect the wire) unless absolutely necessary. I have read where others just tape up both ends of the cut yellow wire and leave it that way. This probably works fine, but I like the idea of being able to repair the circuit by the flip of a switch. (Just in case.)

This is the MOTOR AGE article describing "fail-enable" mode:
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/dat...09/article.pdf
page 3, If the correct key is in the cylinder and that circuit
fails while the engine is running, this is considered a
malfunction, not a theft attempt. The “Security” light
may turn on to warn of a system malfunction, but even if
it doesn’t, a key recognition circuit failure with the proper
key in the lock will cause the TDM to enter what GM
calls a “fail-enable” mode. Essentially, the theft-deterrent
system goes offline and the engine will start and run
with any key that turns the lock.

Here are 2001 Malibu photos to help you get to the Yellow Passlock 2 wire to cut it while the engine is running. Read the directions below each photo. By the looks of these photos, you should probably go ahead and start your car with your key (no keyring or keys attached) so you won't have to figure out how to start it with the Switch in an unsecure position later in the process.

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...1&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...2&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...5&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...6&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...8&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...9&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...2&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...5&link=BULLDOG

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagr...7&link=BULLDOG

That yellow wire is the one to clip while the car is running! Incidentally, Malibus, Grand AMs and Aleros are all having the same Passlock problems. Coincidentally, we all have the same part # for the Ignition Lock Cylinder. A Passlock sensor is built into this cylinder. If this sensor goes bad, you have to replace the entire Ignition Lock Cylinder. GM is making a killing and so are the dealerships. I'm not knocking the Certified Technicians, they are just doing what they are trained to do. How can anyone deny that this part is defective? If you are tired of having to wait to start the car that you worked so hard to buy with your own money, you should be able to disable the Passlock if you want to. This is just one way to do it. Here is the Ignition Lock Cylinder part # and I hope this disablement will really help some of you.
1999 - 2004 Alero
1997 - 2003 Malibu
1999 - 2004 Grand Am

The GM part number is 12458191.

Can't find the old post now but I am so grateful to whoever submitted it. Fantastic!:rofl:

I just took these directions to my mechanic and it took them five minutes to disable the Passlock and they didn't even charge me. Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! I am sooooooo grateful for this.:smooch:

If you disconnect your battery, you will have a no start until you re attach the yellow wire and get it running again. That is, if you did not have have the switch installed.

If you disconnect your battery, you will have a no start until you re attach the yellow wire and get it running again. That is, if you did not have have the switch installed.
Also you now have that ugly theft light to look at. Furthermore, the switch won't help much either over time when the ignition switch completely fails. That's why I recomend using the resistor trick instead.

Also you now have that ugly theft light to look at. Furthermore, the switch won't help much either over time when the ignition switch completely fails. That's why I recomend using the resistor trick instead.

How close to the actual resistance do you need to be, I noticed you told some one in a PM.

Well I was told to be with in 5%. Anytime I can't be right on the money I try to have it slightly higher than what I meter.

Thanks

Hi I have the same no start problem on a 2001 grand am. I was going to do your resistor trick. I have one question that I did not see in the thread. Do I have to match the resistance or can I just put a resistor value in of what ever and have the system relearn. If so that would keep me from having to read and match a value.thx

If you are lucky, you will get the resistor equivalent of the signal required. If not you will have to solder a few in series to get the proper value.

Thank you for the instructions. The bypass worked great and no security light. I baught a pack of resistors from Radio Shack and read the resistance as you stated. When reading resistance use the black wire not a general grounding point. The figues are different. I recommend this to all.
thx

Great thread and good information. I thought about doing the resistor thing, but I just couldn't bring myself to start hacking on a such a great car with only 135xxx miles. :) So, I put in a new ignition switch. Got the OEM part for around $100 online. Put it in a week ago and all is still working fine. Instructions below can also be used to access the ignition switch.

If you go this route, you will need:
To remove the bezel around the instrument panel - runs all the way accross the car on a 98 Malibu. There are two electrical connections for switches. Be careful when you pry on this and start on the passenger side - the first clip is near the end.

Then, remove the top of the cover behind the steering wheel (Three screws coming up from the bottom) and gently pry apart on each side.

Next, remove the instrument panel - 4 screws and one connector on the back right. Rotate to slide out of the opening.

Pry off the bezel around the ignition lock with a small screwdriver and then pry/pull the bezel from around the lock/stereo/AC controlls.

Now, remove the two screws holding the ignition switch in place and feed the switch up through the top where the instrument panel was. Trust me, you cannot get the switch through the radio opening - you need to go from the top.

There are two electrical connectors on the bottom of the switch to be disconnected. There is a cable that runs into the switch from the back that was easier to remove after removing the lock cylinder (put in the key, rotate to run and press in on the small metal catch on the bottom of the switch - cylinder should then pull right out). Finally, remove the last remaining connector - the one with the infamous yellow wire.

Installation is reverse of the above procedure.

Note: For prying internal body pieces (if you don't have a tool), take a screwdriver and wrap it several times with masking tape to prevent scratches.

Good luck.

Sorry but what you did wasn't the fix. Also, my way of fixing isn't "hacking" up stuff. What you did was just change the mechanical side of the switch. You needed to change out the "electrical" side of the switch which includes the decoder. When you change out the system you MUST do the relearn sequence per GM instructions. When GM first started having issues with this system while they started doing the same repair you did. At first it seemed to fix the problem but usually with in 6 months, the symptoms come back. Then they swap out the part that holds the decoder. Again, using the GM parts is only temporary while using the resistor is a done deal.

Thanks for the info, Poncho. I didn't mean to infer the resistor fix was a hack; I was jokingly referring to cutting into the factory harness. I'll see how long it still works. Odd that this "cured" the issue for now. I've had the switch out previously with no change in the theft system error.

So, based on your understanding of the resistor fix would the following work:
Remove the connector from the keylock cylinder and insert a resistor in the end of the connector between the yellow and black wires and not bother to plug the connector back into the keylock cylinder. I'm guessing the resistor value is somewhat irrelevant because the system needs to be relearned anyway. Your thoughts?

No problem. I didn't mean to jump you either. It's just that I've seen dealerships do the same thing you've done and charge people $400 only to have the problem come back with in a year. The only thing I can think of why it works for a little while is from routing around in there with the wiring may move the decoder (even though it isn't suppose to) enough to get it to work again. But, after a while it goes back to the way it was.

As far as unhooking the system and putting the resistor in the end of the connector, not sure if it'd work or not. I'm not totally sure what the white wire that's with the other 2 have to do in the system. In the old PK1 systems like in a '98 Sunfire use that wire as a bulb check in the security system. If that doesn't check out, it'll through a code. Also, the black wire is a ground reference wire and I'm sure there would be a little bit of change in value if you unplug that wire. Reason is that grounds in these GM vehicles are horrid and usually are very poor.

If you start having the same problem, just try it and see.

Thanks. I'll post back if I need to tear into it again. And, really good info. I appreciate experience like yours on this site - makes it worth my time to read and learn.

okay - dumb question but there are pages and pages under this post - daughter has a 97 V6 Malibu with 130,000 miles, key doesn't appear to have a chip in it - only in the winter she has the problem with the theft light blinking and no start, nothing. I've read enough to know to turn the key on until the light stops blinking, then wait 10 minutes and it will start - that's what we did last winter. But since she's usually by herself in the cold trying to get home when this happens - what actually needs replaced to actually "fix" this - not just get around the problem? Is it the starter or some type of computer module - just don't think it's safe to leave a teenager stranded in the cold anymore.

Nope. It's the PK2 decoder or the car's BCM at fault. You can get a new decoder and try to get it going yourself for about $200 or have the dealer do it for about $600 or perminately bypass this system for about $10.