Passlock System

It worked, thanks kindly, Now the remote starter! Uhggg

Well, that's not too bad except having to do most of the wiring behind the radio! Other than that, it's a fairly easy car.

Any tricks to disconnecting the ignition harness from the switch? Can the harness get pulled down far enought under the dash to do the wire hookups?

I've never tried to do that and I doubt it can be done. I've just did all of my work behind the radio.

Hi all, I've had the passlock system problem also, and read alot on here which was a huge help. I read on here alot that one alternative fix is to get a remote starter. The only way getting a remote starter will help is if you plan to use it every time you start your car if you are experiencing passlock problems. Reason is, if you get a remote starter, the passlock wire "trio" gets wired into an alarm bypass module, which bypasses the ignition "chip" for the alarm when you use the remote, thus starting the car even if you are having passlock problems. This in no way has any effect if you use the key to turn the ignition manually, because now, you are once again turning the tumbler and using the faulty passlock "chip". Also, if you have a remote atarter, cutting the yellow wire is not an option, because it is wired into the remote starter bypass, and if you do so (which I tried), it will not let you start the car remotely, or manually. My fix was that I had my mechanic, who is awesome, get me the part, and do the job on the side for ca$h. He charged me $250 for everything, which is a steal compared to what I see on here. If cutting the yellow wire is an option for you, do it and save the cash, wish I could have

I did cut the yellow wire and it has nothing to do with my remote starter system. I did the resistor modification.

Hi all, I've had the passlock system problem also, and read alot on here which was a huge help. I read on here alot that one alternative fix is to get a remote starter. The only way getting a remote starter will help is if you plan to use it every time you start your car if you are experiencing passlock problems. Reason is, if you get a remote starter, the passlock wire "trio" gets wired into an alarm bypass module, which bypasses the ignition "chip" for the alarm when you use the remote, thus starting the car even if you are having passlock problems. This in no way has any effect if you use the key to turn the ignition manually, because now, you are once again turning the tumbler and using the faulty passlock "chip". Also, if you have a remote atarter, cutting the yellow wire is not an option, because it is wired into the remote starter bypass, and if you do so (which I tried), it will not let you start the car remotely, or manually. My fix was that I had my mechanic, who is awesome, get me the part, and do the job on the side for ca$h. He charged me $250 for everything, which is a steal compared to what I see on here. If cutting the yellow wire is an option for you, do it and save the cash, wish I could have

WOW, the part to fix that is only about $100. I guess he must charge by the hour and included his lunch too.

WOW, the part to fix that is only about $100. I guess he must charge by the hour and included his lunch too.


Where can you get the whole ignition, with new keys for $100?? I went to Chevy myself, and they were going to sell it to me for $150, with a municipal discount. If you think $250 is expensive, then the others on here must have gotten bent over, and raped for paying $400-$500.

Where can you get the whole ignition, with new keys for $100?? I went to Chevy myself, and they were going to sell it to me for $150, with a municipal discount. If you think $250 is expensive, then the others on here must have gotten bent over, and raped for paying $400-$500.

Yep they've gotten bent over all right. I've seen them on Ebay. You can even get them out of a late model at the local salvage place. The area ones here only charge about $25 and all you need is one key. Even so it's worthless to do that sort of repair because it'll happen again and again. The resistor trick is 99% effective and it only cost at most $8.00.

The resistor trick worked for me as well, however only cost me my time as I had a multimeter already and all the resistors I needed in my electronics repair stock. Even to purchase a pack of assorted resistors you are only talking $3.

You can add me to the non-passlock members. I just wanted to throw my 2 cents into the argument to be able to disable the system as a normal user. I am a electrical technician that works for a large corporation, without going into too much detail about who I work for I deal with integrated multiple computer systems. I am usally pretty good at hacking these systems when i need to in the course of the day.
When I installed a remote car starter in 1998 pontiac grand am for my girlfriend I was aware of the passlock feature and installed the fix of a relay to bypass the key in the ignition. This worked fine for a couple of years until the remote feature stopped working. I did not want to diagnose why the remote no longer worked so i told her to live with it. Then one day she called me to tell me that the car would not start and she was stranded. With her being out of work and on dissability I could not afford to have a repair bill so I went after work to find out what the problem was.
Without going into too many details I just spent $130 of money that i could not afford, towing, 2 wks. Without a car, a small car fire. Having to diagnose a problem outside in the freezing rain and having to take time off from work to take her to doctors appointments because I did not realize that the passlock system was the cause of the system activating at the wrong time.
The car would start and after 2 sec. would stall. Not thinking that the passlock system was the cause I started cheking sensors, fuel injectors, and all others possibilties. After searching the internet I found this forum and tried resetting the passlock system which allowed the car to start.

The message that i am trying to send here is that someone mentioned "adding my name to the class action". That is probably not the best solution as a consumer. My brother (ASE certified mechanic) had the misfortune of bying a newer used impala with a 4 cylinder motor and many problems (coolant leaks, water pump, etc. ) that his final solution was to by a Ford. We can all try to sue corporations to try and make them responsible but all we can accomplish is to make a few attorneys millionaires while you pick up your free key fob at the dealer while they try to sell you a new pile of crap. The pontiac that my girlfriend owns does have 169k on but I dont know if I will be bying another gm car in the future until i can verify that they have cleaned up theire act. Can anyone say toyota.


end of rant

Well, I'm not sure if I'd pick Toyota as part of my defense. I mean, they did have the #2 most recalled vehicle for 2007 http://autos.aol.com/article/safety/v2/_a/top-10-most-recalled-cars/20071203102409990001

Anyhoo I understand your frustration as many on here have. I don't think it's a bad idea to get on some sort of bitch list to be handed to Gm or any other maker for that matter. You have billions spent on advertising and most of the time in those ads there's something about how reliable the vehicle is. So, the buying public believes this only to find out that soon after warranties end, there's a host of issues at hand. Why GM never fully used a transponder setup like Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, and Honda to name a few I'll never know. For years the only transponder vehicles were some of the higher end Pontiacs. Transponder systems are where the key itself has a chip inside the head of the key and the ignition has a magetic field that can read the chip. It's simular to that like what they put inside pets. Instead, GM uses a fragile by designed mechanical setup that is made to fail easily.

To add insult to injury now the newest of GM vehicles have BOTH the Pk2 and PK3 systems!!!!

Well, I just bypassed one the other day too. What I did was cut the yellow PK2 wire, stripped a little off of the black reference ground wire, put one lead from my ohm meter on the black ground wire and the other lead on the wire yellow wire going to the ignition switch. Then I put the car in gear and cranked it over. When you do that, the switch will send out what code it has been using. It came out to something like 6.21ohms. I then got some resistors that were about 6.25 and connected one end of the resistors to the cut yellow wire GOING to the BCM and the other end of the resistors to the ground reference wires. It started right up and the theft light went off.

Wife's car (2001 Pontiac Grand Am) experienced the reported issue, security light flashes, starter whirrs, engine doesn't start, blah, blah, blah...

10 minute trick worked, but the wife expressed serious displeasure in having to wait (if needed). So I wanted to try this little fellow out, but I wanted to make sure that my MS Paint style wiring diagram was correct:

http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f77/Guvnuh4/diagram.jpg

With soldering to the data-to-bcm wire and ground

You want to check the resistance between the ignition side of the yellow wire and black wire. You don't have to touch the white wire. Once you find the resistance put the same value of resistors between the black wire and the non ignition switch side of the yellow wire. Solder up and seal it up and you are done. I'm not sure what wire colours are in comparison with your neutral, hot and data wires. It is a simple thing to do, but hard to get at in my car at least.

Hi all, I've had the passlock system problem also, and read alot on here which was a huge help. I read on here alot that one alternative fix is to get a remote starter. The only way getting a remote starter will help is if you plan to use it every time you start your car if you are experiencing passlock problems. Reason is, if you get a remote starter, the passlock wire "trio" gets wired into an alarm bypass module, which bypasses the ignition "chip" for the alarm when you use the remote, thus starting the car even if you are having passlock problems. This in no way has any effect if you use the key to turn the ignition manually, because now, you are once again turning the tumbler and using the faulty passlock "chip". Also, if you have a remote atarter, cutting the yellow wire is not an option, because it is wired into the remote starter bypass, and if you do so (which I tried), it will not let you start the car remotely, or manually.
Interesting! The only time i have had problems with starting is when i do not use my remote start. I have a Chevy Malibu Maxx 2004 with 74k miles on it. The remote start is OEM and the main reason i purchased the vehicle. The last 3 months i have not used it much as someone told me it uses more gas to start that way:banghead: . Have had the car a year and it started acting crazy :screwy: after i switched to key starts. Its very random and never occurs on cold start(1st thing in the mornining or after car has been parked for a few hours). Always when i go somewhere like grocery shopping .

GREETINGS TO ALL,
IN THE ABOVE SCHEMATIC:
IS THE IGNITION KEY IN THE IGNITION SWITCH?
IF THAT IS SO, IN WHAT POSTION IS THE SWITCH, ie, OFF,ON,ACCESSORY?

REGARDS TO ALL,
FISH96

When I did the bypass the key had to be in the start position. I am not sure if it will work in the On position at all.

Well actually to clarify this you need to CRANK over the ignition and let it rest in the ON position. During the crank is when the PK2 sends out the proper resistance.

Okay - I've tried to follow thru this post to find a solution - but there are way too many pages to wade thru. My daughter's 1997 Malibu with 125000 miles on it has this problem, antitheft light blinks and it won't start, she turns the key to accessories and leaves it for a while then it will start. Last time it happened though she had to wait 30 minutes, so it's obviously getting to the point of no return. Can someone reply with the technical service bulletin site to put the toggle switch on a 97 3.1? It seems like there is a way to put in a switch instead of just cutting yellow wires. The first couple of pages of threads refer to putting in a toggle switch but it mentions 98 and newer models. There's no check engine light on when this happens, just the antitheft blinking, so I haven't taken it anywhere to check any codes.

Any help appreciated. It's been a good little car for us, but with that many miles would like to fix this before it becomes a major expense, and she drives 1/2 hour to school so it's not ideal to leave her waiting for 1/2 hour in freezing weather. Another weird thing - is this just a cold or damp weather thing? It didn't do it all summer long and now it's acting up quite frequently again.
Thanks!

Um, If I recall correctly the engine will not crank with the yellow wire cut on the passlock system when you turn the ignition to start.

just got my 2001 grand am from shop to have passlock system repaired. got so angry at price I had to pay I fired off a letter to Richard Wagoner, Jr. CEO of GM letting him know how disgusted that GM does not do a recall on the passlock system. hope others out there will do the same.

Some one claims all you have to do if you get a security light and no start. Turn the key to run, shift into neutral and it will start. I have never tried it but another poster said it also worked for him. Worth a try.

No, it will not start if it's already locked out when you put it into nuetral. Also, on some '98 and all the newer ones you could just cut the yellow wire while it's running and it'll start everytime until the car's battery goes dead. On '97 there's nothing that I know of on how to bypass it because part of the system goes through the instrument cluster. Sometimes it's the cluster, bcm, or decoder that can be bad.

The passlock feature has NO USE what so ever. Its made to prevent theives from starting your car without the key.

Yesteday I broke the pins in my ignition switch by accident after forcing my key out after it became stuck. Now u can start it with anything in of a keyshape such as a screw driver.


Im a fan of General Motors, they have STRONG POWERFUL engines and nice bodyies. But their electronics are MENT to fail after a certain amount of clicks 258,xxxKM is where mine is. My temp guage stopped working, abs, parkbrake, engine check, and door open light is on.

My previous 93 civic was up in its 400,000km age, buring black smoke and all that, but still ran when i started it with no dash lights.

2002 MonteCarloSS 35,700 miles
For the past 500 miles or so Ive been having what sound like passlock trouble. But a little different than what Ive read here.
When cold it will always start, after a little while the security light comes on and ding ding ding andI look and see the volt meter reading a big fat 0 then the lights will alternate security, battery, service engine soon.
Then the volt meter with resume reading 14 volt or so and all lights will go out except the security light, for a few minutes then ding ding ding and we are at it again. Some times the traction light will come on but not very often.
A few times the car would not start untill I played with the locks on the ket fob. Once I had to wait 10 minutes to start and once I had to do the 10 minute relearn thing but most of the time it will start just the lights come on and the volt gauge goes off.
I bought a obd2 reader off e-bay and later found out it was only good for engine codes.
Im thinking of the resistor fix, but wondering if this problem could be in the BCM ?
Any thoughts???????????????????????????????????????:uh oh:

Sounds like you have a faulty ignition switch and not necessarly a PK2 issue.

Changed the lock cylinder and now it will crank but not start. The theft system light is flashing. I there a way to reset this. It is a 97 with a 2.4 and auto trans.

Changed the lock cylinder and now it will crank but not start. The theft system light is flashing. I there a way to reset this. It is a 97 with a 2.4 and auto trans.

Try the relearn.
The book says to clear codes first.
Turn key on and hit start and if no start turn back to run for 10 minutes untill light goes out.
The back off and then on and see if light goes out.
Then see if it will start.

If battery is low you may need a charger or jumper on it for the 10 minutes key on relearn.
Good Luck
MT

I have an 03 Alero. It cranked but failed to start last week. I'm not sure I heard the fuel pump run or not. The next day I turned the key to On and I heard the fuel pump run for a few seconds and then it turned off. I proceded to crank it and it started right up. It started and ran for several days with no problems. Then yesterday it would crank but not start again. I turned the key to on and I did not hear the fuel pump prime the system. I did hear a couple of clicks under the hood. Also when I turned off the key I heard a series of about 6 clicks right in the engine area. I checked the fuel pump relay and the fuses under the hood and everything was OK. Is this a PK problem, an ignition cylinder problem, or maybe a BCM problem? Is the fuel pump acting up? When I cranked the engine the Security light stays on for just a few seconds and then goes out. If this is a PK problem will the fuel pump still kick on or do the fuel injectors just cut out? Do I hear the F/I clicking under the hood when I turn the key off? I never heard this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

E

I did the procedure to deactivate my passlock security system. (started car, cut yellow wire, installed a cheap, temporary toggle switch). It worked (system light on to indicate it was disabled). I didnt want the security light on, and didnt want to keep that cheap toggle switch so I bought a nice switch that looks like part of the dashboard, drilled a little hole through the dash...inserted the switch that had a teethed nut underneath to hold it flat and solid and centered it above on the radio faceplate. Looks very professional and it works. I installed it reversed from the directions so that the security light is not lit when the security system is disabled because that light is very bright and annoying. By reversing the switch, Security light is on if the security system is Enabled. I will always keep it disabled so that I can start the car, thus the light is off.

I really want to troubleshoot this tho. I want to disconnect the battery and reconnect it to make sure it will still start. I need to know... should I have the switch in the position that the wires are in the closed position (where it makes for a continuous connection) or should I have the switch in the disabled position (wires open, not touching) so that the security system is deactivated when the battery is reconnected?

Thanks ahead in case I can't find my way back to this thread/site.

I have an 03 Alero. It cranked but failed to start last week. I'm not sure I heard the fuel pump run or not. The next day I turned the key to On and I heard the fuel pump run for a few seconds and then it turned off. I proceded to crank it and it started right up. It started and ran for several days with no problems. Then yesterday it would crank but not start again. I turned the key to on and I did not hear the fuel pump prime the system. I did hear a couple of clicks under the hood. Also when I turned off the key I heard a series of about 6 clicks right in the engine area. I checked the fuel pump relay and the fuses under the hood and everything was OK. Is this a PK problem, an ignition cylinder problem, or maybe a BCM problem? Is the fuel pump acting up? When I cranked the engine the Security light stays on for just a few seconds and then goes out. If this is a PK problem will the fuel pump still kick on or do the fuel injectors just cut out? Do I hear the F/I clicking under the hood when I turn the key off? I never heard this before. Any help would be greatly appreciated

E

Welcome to AF
It sounds more like a engine starting running problem.
You have to have spark and fuel pressure first thing to check.
Try running a post in the Alero forum for help on it.
If Triped.
The anti theft system cuts injector pulse within or after a couple seconds of engine starting.
If light comes on with a key on buld check and then goes out it it should be OK.
MT

hi im new to this site but like all of us here im here in search of some help. I have looked threw almost all of these post and have not gotten an answer to my problem well today i went to the store and wen i got into my car it did not start and btw im 40 miles from home with my wife and kid and with frozen food in the trunk. well anyway after 3 hours of watiing for aride i got home and got online here to see if i could get help well i have tried the 10 min methode of reseting and nothing i have done it for like 4 hours striaght now and the battery is dead now so im stuck with this car oh sorry the car is a 98 chevy malibu someone please help me start my car i dont have the money to get it towed or to get it fixed at the moment

thanks

Welcome to AF
It sounds more like a engine starting running problem.
You have to have spark and fuel pressure first thing to check.
Try running a post in the Alero forum for help on it.
If Triped.
The anti theft system cuts injector pulse within or after a couple seconds of engine starting.
If light comes on with a key on buld check and then goes out it it should be OK.
MT
Normally even if the PK2 system is shutting down the the car, the fuel pump is still on and working. Like MT said, the PK2 system shuts down the injectors, not the fuel pump. You may have a fuel pump or other associated issue.

hi im new to this site but like all of us here im here in search of some help. I have looked threw almost all of these post and have not gotten an answer to my problem well today i went to the store and wen i got into my car it did not start and btw im 40 miles from home with my wife and kid and with frozen food in the trunk. well anyway after 3 hours of watiing for aride i got home and got online here to see if i could get help well i have tried the 10 min methode of reseting and nothing i have done it for like 4 hours striaght now and the battery is dead now so im stuck with this car oh sorry the car is a 98 chevy malibu someone please help me start my car i dont have the money to get it towed or to get it fixed at the moment

thanks

Welcome to AF.

I quick question does the security come on with key on and then go out after the bulb check or stay on full time?

Sounds like you are in a tight spot.
With out a scanner or test equipment it is hard to tell what the problem is.
If you are 40 miles from home and no money for tow.
Better see if the store parking lot will let you leave it there a few days.
If you have any way to get some money the for repair.
I would suggest you contact a good repair shop and see if they will have it towed to there shop for you and check it out you.
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
Also you might get some help by running a post in the Malibu forum.
MT

Thanks very much to everybody for the details on how to disable this Passlock system. It's an Olds Intrigue, not a Chevy, but this is a major common GM problem that GM refuses to accept responsibility for. Neither the dealer nor the company would cut me a break despite this being a major design defect. They wouldn't even acknowledge it's a problem. Cutting the yellow wire with the engine running and inserting a toggle switch worked and I saved $500.

Added bonus: since the theft system is now disabled, there's a better chance somebody can steal my car. Please do! I won't have to deal with the next GM design problem that crops up (Passlock in the third, following frequent wiper motor failure and a seized AC compressor at 30K miles.) Life-long GM owner, but this is the last.

Thanks again.

Thanks very much to everybody for the details on how to disable this Passlock system. It's an Olds Intrigue, not a Chevy, but this is a major common GM problem that GM refuses to accept responsibility for. Neither the dealer nor the company would cut me a break despite this being a major design defect. They wouldn't even acknowledge it's a problem. Cutting the yellow wire with the engine running and inserting a toggle switch worked and I saved $500.

Added bonus: since the theft system is now disabled, there's a better chance somebody can steal my car. Please do! I won't have to deal with the next GM design problem that crops up (Passlock in the third, following frequent wiper motor failure and a seized AC compressor at 30K miles.) Life-long GM owner, but this is the last.

Thanks again.

As we all know GM sees fit to ignore design problems, they are now paying the price for the neglect. Could never figure out why they chose not to drop the Malibu name, it is the poster for poor quality.

I do know something is rearming the security system. I've installed the toggle switch as instructed and it's working fine. I turn the car off with the security light on (meaning the security system is disabled) but when I start the vehicle up, the key won't start it and the security light is not ON. I've tried turning the car off with the switch activated (arming the security system) hoping I might have installed backwards, but that doesnt work either. I just want to always be able to start the car with the key, NOT the remote starter, and I dont want to wait 10 mins or whatever. Any ideas on what is reactivating the security system? I want to remove or disable the remote start so that I can see, after disarming the security system with the switch, if the security system stays deactivated. I know that if I can get the system to stay deactivated, the car will start with the key. I understand there might be a fuse in the harness of the remote start (under the dash) that I could take out to disable the remote start.

If they installed the remote start improperly to begin with, could it be reactivating the security system?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

Well, it looks like it happened to me, it is -5 degrees here and My car will turn over but not start. If I turn the key to "on" for 10 or 12 minutes and it starts. I have a 2000 Grand Am GT and I am not looking forward to spending the money to have this replaced.

I have read through this thread a couple of times and I wanted to summarize what I have learned to make sure I don’t screw up my car any worse. I'm not very good with this kind of stuff, but I have a brother that will do all the work for me.

Basically, the passlock system that is built into my car is meant to keep you from sticking a screwdriver into the ignition to start it. When you put in a key, two magnates send a current through the key and the computer measures the resistance. If the resistance is within the limit, the car starts, If not then it just turns over without starting.

To replace this system, it is alittle over 500 bucks (give or take a few). But there may be three ways to get around this. They were discovered because people were trying to hookup remote starters and the theft lock was killing the engine. The first is spray cleaner into the ignition to clean the magnets... Check… and no change… Use a different key and it works sometimes.

The second is if you can get the car running (e.g. the signal makes it to the computer) then cut the cable, the computer registers the broken circuit and goes into a failover mode. At that point the car will start no matter if the passlock system is working or not. The draw back is that the security light in the dash stays on and if the power goes out (e.g. the battery dies or need to be jumped) the computer resets and goes out of the failover mode. Some people put in switches so they can control this but you run the risk of the ignition being really broken and never getting it to start again which is necessary to get it into the failover mode.

The last idea is to measure what the set resistance is for your key and put in a comparable resistor instead of a switch. Basically, you bypass the ignition and the computer always thinks the correct key is being used. This way, if you the battery ever goes dead then you dont run the risk of not being able to start it again. Somebody had drawn a MS Paint diagram of this bypass but nobody really responded to it. Is it correct?

Anyway, If there is any information that is not correct or accurate, please let me know. I hope to start working on my car tonight (in the -5 degree weather.) and any frustration that I can avoid would be very much appreciated.

Key on bulb test the security light comes on for bulb and ststem test.
If the light goes out everything on security system is OK.
If not it shuts off the injectors and keeps the engine from starting.
Some times the key on for 10-20 will override it.

But if it is tripping the light there is a problem with the system.
I would suggest a good engine capable scannner to get the code and find out where the problem is.
Post back code.
Depending on the problem a lot of them can be fixed with out to much.
The chev Malbui has a lot of major problems.
Some times the best deal on them is the bypass.

To bypass it look back threw all of the post here on it.
MT

GouldmanRS,

You summed up the entire 15 pages in one simple post! Good luck with it, unfortunately, if you are having problems and try to check the resistance of the switch you may be getting a wrong reading that the computer is also getting.

I may be wrong, but may suggest if anyone has any comments on whether this is correct or not, but what if you take a reading of the resistance, replace the switch with the same resistance with resistors, then do the "Relearn" on the system with the 10 minute ignition on procedure.

I have had no problem with the resistor install on my Intrigue. Lately it has been getting into the single digits in Fahrenheit and the car starts with no problem, even with the remote starter.

Well my saga for the Passlock has finally ended, No I didn't get rid of the Malibu. I fixed it, cost was around 100 bucks, and it should be permanent or at least for another 5 years.
First I was having intermittent failures, similar to those posted elsewhere on this and other newsgroups. I went to a very experienced automotive electrician and got detailed schematics of the Passlock or Passkey system used in ALL GM vehicles from 1998 to 2005.

There is an optional system that uses a coded key with a chip resistor in it. Look at your key and see if it has a number or # stamped on it, that and only that key will work.

Mine is a non coded key, or a standard passkey or passlock II system. The key actuates a pair of magnets that pass in the vicinity of a pair of Hall-effect sensors, basically a pair of transistor switches that use a magnetic field as a turn on junction for them. They are each attached to a precision resistor that drops the voltage on the yellow (data) wire, referenced to the black (ground) wire. The data line carries about 5.5 volts normally with the key off, when my key went to start that voltage dropped to 2.088 volts and stayed at that voltage until the key was taken to off. The next start cycle it repeated. A no-start (crank) cycle was 4-5 volts, a tamper was >2.2 volts or <1.8 volts and would cut off the engine after a few seconds.
I measured the voltage then cut the yellow wire after noting the correct START sequence, i.e. the engine started. When I cut the yellow wire the engine was not running but I made sure the voltages were correct, I put the shifter in "R" and did the "START" sequence and checked the voltage before I cut the wire. The "Theft System" annunciator came on just like it is supposed to. I then measured the resistance from the yellow wire on the ignition switch to the black wire and found 1808 ohms, NOTE this is my value yours WILL be different, there are thousands of combinations. I then when to my local Radio Shack and got the necessary resistor to substitute for the above resistance from the hall-effec sensors. I then slid a piece of heat shrink tubing (electrical tape will work) over the yellow wire to the BCM and soldered the resistor to the yellow wire and to the black wire. Now my passkey is permanently set to good data.

Do not try to unplug the three wires from the lock assembly, you will ruin the connector and possibly the lock. The lock must be partially removed to unplug the connector, easy enough, turn you key to run and press the square metal button on the bottom of the ignition switch the whole tumbler and key will slip out, remove it about 1/2 inch then disconnect the connector. You can put the correct resistor between the yellow and black pins , then tape the connector and resistor up, and slide the lock back in.

Well on with my saga, I did the above resistor modification after some experiments to see what values did what, I wrote everything down.

About a week after I did the modifications I noted the vehicle was cranking again and not starting, being the technician I am I started noting symptoms. Turn key all idiot lights light, go to start display goes blank, NO START. Turn key idiot lights stay on vehicle starts, turn key idiot lights stay on then blink off no start. Tells me the ignition switch is FUBAR (Fu--ed up beyond all recognition) anyhow I replaced the ignition switch with a brand new ACdelco part an lo-and-behold it worked perfectly, hence the $100 cause that's what the switch goes for. The part # is ACD1432D, use only this part. You have to take out the instrument cluster to put it in but it takes about 20 minutes, half dozen body clips and 2 screws above the instrument cluster trim piece, 9 hex head screws, (6 if you don't pull the radio) but it makes it easier to get two hands in there.

pat

Hi everyone,

I just had a couple of questions.
I, like everyone else here, have been having problems with the passlock on my 2001 Chevy Mailbu. I have read through all the posts here (took me a long time, lol!) as well as on some other message boards, and I decided I'm going to install the toggle switch.

Many people have said that you need to have the engine running before cutting the yellow wire. And that makes sense if all I'm going to do is cut the wire and cap off the ends. But if I'm using a toggle switch. I should be able to cut the wire and install the switch with the engine off, and just make sure the switch is in closed position when starting the car. Then just put the switch in open position after its started. I mean, thats essentially the same thing right?

Another thing I wanted to bring up is someone (forgot the name, sorry) was saying that he didnt recommend installing a toggle switch (use resistor instead) because if the battery konks out, the car wont start. Which again makes sense, but I mean, if that happens the switch can just be placed back into the closed position after the new battery is put in (or charged) and started as normal...or am I incorrect on this? I have seen other sites where they said this can be done.
The reason I would rather use the switch instead of a resistor is because I have never done soldering before and would rather not try it for the first time on my car...LOL! But a switch should be very easy for me to wire in.

Thanks,

Well I haven't done it yet but I would prefer the resistor method only because with the toggle you will get a check engine light which would annoy the hell out of me.

Question to those who have done the resistor method: would it work on a 2003 3.4L impala?

Hi everyone,

I just had a couple of questions.
I, like everyone else here, have been having problems with the passlock on my 2001 Chevy Mailbu. I have read through all the posts here (took me a long time, lol!) as well as on some other message boards, and I decided I'm going to install the toggle switch.

Many people have said that you need to have the engine running before cutting the yellow wire. And that makes sense if all I'm going to do is cut the wire and cap off the ends. But if I'm using a toggle switch. I should be able to cut the wire and install the switch with the engine off, and just make sure the switch is in closed position when starting the car. Then just put the switch in open position after its started. I mean, thats essentially the same thing right?

Another thing I wanted to bring up is someone (forgot the name, sorry) was saying that he didnt recommend installing a toggle switch (use resistor instead) because if the battery konks out, the car wont start. Which again makes sense, but I mean, if that happens the switch can just be placed back into the closed position after the new battery is put in (or charged) and started as normal...or am I incorrect on this? I have seen other sites where they said this can be done.
The reason I would rather use the switch instead of a resistor is because I have never done soldering before and would rather not try it for the first time on my car...LOL! But a switch should be very easy for me to wire in.

Thanks,

Your right in a way. If after your battery replacement, when you put the switch on, you may have to do the 10 min reset to get it started and running, then open the switch.

Hi everyone,

I just had a couple of questions.
I, like everyone else here, have been having problems with the passlock on my 2001 Chevy Mailbu. I have read through all the posts here (took me a long time, lol!) as well as on some other message boards, and I decided I'm going to install the toggle switch.

Many people have said that you need to have the engine running before cutting the yellow wire. And that makes sense if all I'm going to do is cut the wire and cap off the ends. But if I'm using a toggle switch. I should be able to cut the wire and install the switch with the engine off, and just make sure the switch is in closed position when starting the car. Then just put the switch in open position after its started. I mean, thats essentially the same thing right?

Another thing I wanted to bring up is someone (forgot the name, sorry) was saying that he didnt recommend installing a toggle switch (use resistor instead) because if the battery konks out, the car wont start. Which again makes sense, but I mean, if that happens the switch can just be placed back into the closed position after the new battery is put in (or charged) and started as normal...or am I incorrect on this? I have seen other sites where they said this can be done.
The reason I would rather use the switch instead of a resistor is because I have never done soldering before and would rather not try it for the first time on my car...LOL! But a switch should be very easy for me to wire in.

Thanks,

Either the toggle or the resistor method requires soldering unless you care to mount the toggle right next to the ignition switch which will need a hole in the dash. You will need to extend the wires and using crimp on terminals is not a good method although it will work. I actually went through the resistor install and then again had problems starting. Turns out the ignition switch itself was all carboned up and needed replacement which took less time then the resistor method.

The switch was $100 and I left the resistor in.

goody

Well, I just got through installing the switch. It was so much easier than I thought. It only took me about 35-40 minutes, and I'm really not much of an auto mechanic.

I left the car off when I cut the yellow wire and installed the switch. I didnt solder it, I just twisted the wires together and taped them up, same on the switch. I didnt even mount the switch in the dash or anything. I just left it hanging in the back of the dash. You really cant see it unless you just stick your head down there and look up, but its still easy to get to if I need to enable it again.

I started the car up with the switch closed and it started up fine. After several seconds I turned the switch to the open position. At first nothing happened, then after about 2-3 seconds the 'theft system' light came on and stayed on. I turned the car off and on several times and it started up fine each time. I just stuck a piece of black electrical tape over the light. :grinyes:

I know I just did a cheap, quick method. But all I cared about is getting this to work. I got tired of getting stuck waiting 10 minutes for the passlock to reset. On average it would hapen about once a month, but in the last 2 weeks it happened about 5 times and I was just fed up.

I'll post an update after several weeks and let you know how its going..

I just wanted to offer a big thanks to everyone on here who contributed. Especially to the guy who posted screenshots. You guys were a big help.

-Zelig


Hi everyone,

I just had a couple of questions.
I, like everyone else here, have been having problems with the passlock on my 2001 Chevy Mailbu. I have read through all the posts here (took me a long time, lol!) as well as on some other message boards, and I decided I'm going to install the toggle switch.

Many people have said that you need to have the engine running before cutting the yellow wire. And that makes sense if all I'm going to do is cut the wire and cap off the ends. But if I'm using a toggle switch. I should be able to cut the wire and install the switch with the engine off, and just make sure the switch is in closed position when starting the car. Then just put the switch in open position after its started. I mean, thats essentially the same thing right?

Another thing I wanted to bring up is someone (forgot the name, sorry) was saying that he didnt recommend installing a toggle switch (use resistor instead) because if the battery konks out, the car wont start. Which again makes sense, but I mean, if that happens the switch can just be placed back into the closed position after the new battery is put in (or charged) and started as normal...or am I incorrect on this? I have seen other sites where they said this can be done.
The reason I would rather use the switch instead of a resistor is because I have never done soldering before and would rather not try it for the first time on my car...LOL! But a switch should be very easy for me to wire in.

Thanks,

I have a 2002 impala ls that has this problem, i want to do one of the methods that have been discused but how in the heck to you get to the radio to pull it out...it looks like you have to pull the dash off. That dash goes althe way across to the passenger side, I wish it was split. I did find the screws that look it they hold the panel on but im sure there are clips also, can anyone give some advice on taking the plastic dash off?. I could go to the junk yard and try to find one and experiment, but hate to do that just incase there is a part that someone may need.

Thanks!
al

I have a 1998 Chevy Malibu that I bought used in December 2007 (a month ago) and it just started having this problem, which is how I found this site.

My poor husband was spending hours outside jumping my car with his and trying over and over again to get my car working. He kept adjusting the jumper cables on the battery terminals thinking that might work, but nothing was getting my car to start.

The first time it happened, I was able to unlock my car (in a grocery store parking lot), open the trunk, load up the groceries, but then I tried to start it and nothing happened. No lights, no radio, no AC, no start. My husband met me there, jumped the car and it was fine. I was so mad because I just bought a new battery when I got the car a month before.

Now, the next time I tried to start it was a few days later. This time, the lights in the car, the radio and AC came on when the key got to the ACC line, but then everything went dead when I tried to start it up. We tried jumping it, but it didn't work. It was at time that I noticed the flashing lights below the steering wheel that apparently have something to do with the security system. I'd looked up an owner's manual online and had read about it prevously (from what I remember, unless it recognizes the right key, it prevents gas from getting to the engine, making your car a doorstop), but I didn't know it had anything to do with that funny black key-looking-thing under the steering wheel. Now that it was blinking, it got my attention. It did slow red blinking, fast red blinking, slow green blinking, but nothing really consistent that I noticed. In any case, I figured now that it probably had something to do with the security system rather than the battery. Still, just in case, my husband tried for about half and hour and then we sadly canceled our for-the-first-time-in-a-month dinner plans since it was now too late at night. :banghead:

The next time I tried to start the car, which was the next day, my husband tried starting it again. He managed to get it started once and left the car running (doors locked) for about an hour hoping to recharge the alternator. We went to start it later and the same thing--the car went dead when I tried to start it. So, I went to the computer and he went back to the jumper cables. :disappoin :shakehead

I saw a thread about cutting wires, but that scared me, so I kept reading. I saw another idea of permanently disabling the security system, but that would cost money, too, and I can't work, so I kept reading. Finally, I saw the answer to my prayers in the post that said to put in the key, put the car in neutral, and then start it and that has been working like a dream!! :p

SUMMARY: If your car's dome/dash lights come on when you stick the key in, but then everything dies when you try to start the car, check under the steering wheel. If lights are blinking, it might be the security system. So, before you spend a zillion dollars on this, try putting the key in (don't start, but you can stick it in ACC), then put the car in neutral, then start. For about the next 6 times I've started my car, it has worked without a problem!!

Ponchonutty , have you read the post before mine.

I have a 2002 impala ls that has this problem, i want to do one of the methods that have been discused but how in the heck to you get to the radio to pull it out...it looks like you have to pull the dash off. That dash goes althe way across to the passenger side, I wish it was split. I did find the screws that look it they hold the panel on but im sure there are clips also, can anyone give some advice on taking the plastic dash off?. I could go to the junk yard and try to find one and experiment, but hate to do that just incase there is a part that someone may need.

Thanks!
al

I have a 2002 Monte Carlo, I thik they are similer but have never seen inside an Impalla. I thought the dash went all the way across I just got pissed and pulled on it and presto the cover came of the intrument pannel and radio.
Thats as far as I have gone so far. Sitting in the driveway half apart.

Sounds like you have a faulty ignition switch and not necessarly a PK2 issue.

Well isnt the passlock part of that switch? Im asuming you mean the box that plugs into the locking cylinder.

I am just wondering if I replace that, about $230 and then it turns out to be the BCM at about $105.
What is weird is it will start every time when it is cold, but only fail when it it warm. The other day is was warm but the car was cold and it would not start. Something is tempature sensative.:screwy:

Either the toggle or the resistor method requires soldering unless you care to mount the toggle right next to the ignition switch which will need a hole in the dash. You will need to extend the wires and using crimp on terminals is not a good method although it will work. I actually went through the resistor install and then again had problems starting. Turns out the ignition switch itself was all carboned up and needed replacement which took less time then the resistor method.

The switch was $100 and I left the resistor in.

goody

Is this switch a fit all type of part?

Another thing that got my attention in your post, when my problems first started, I remeber pulling my key out and it had something on it, like there was some gunky stuff in the lock. Did nt think much of it at the time.

Here is a re-write of the GM upfitter bulletins ( http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull2wsA.pdf and http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/bull/bull26.pdf ) so that we can more readily apply it to our cars! There is no need to add a remote starter.



PASSLOCK I or II DISABLEMENT

The following is a procedure to disable Passlock I or II Systems for vehicles in which remote start/stop system installations are required. This procedure is required because a remote start system will not function with the current Theft Deterrent System (Passlock) which is included on many 1996 and up GM vehicles.

Please note that this modification is intended to be used only in conjunction with the installation of a remote start/stop system and does not provide a procedure to install a remote start/stop system.

CAUSE
If an attempt is made to start a vehicle by a means other than a key rotation in the ignition switch, the Body Control Module (BCM) will interpret this start as a vehicle theft and disable the fuel injectors.

CORRECTION
A minor wiring modification may be made to allow the vehicle to be started remotely. This modification includes adding a switch to allow the customer to select “ON” to disable Passlock or “OFF” for normal Passlock operation.

CAUTION: When this modification is performed and the switch is set to the ON position, the theft deterrent feature will be disabled. When the theft deterrent is disabled the SECURITY or THEFT telltale will light up indicating that the theft deterrent system is NOT functioning.

PASSLOCK MODIFICATION
Refer to appropriate GM service manuals and/or SVMQP Electrical Guideline Manual for instruction on splicing and electrical connections.
1. Select a suitable on-off switch (see note below) which will be used to disable/
enable the Passlock System. Mount the switch in a location such that it is
accessible to the driver and will not interfere with normal vehicle operation.
NOTE: This is an extremely low current circuit (approx. 7mA), it is therefore very important that a high quality, low energy, fast acting switch be utilized
for this application.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Locate the Main Ignition Switch Harness. GM's Passlock System wires exit the Ignition Switch Tumbler together and then join with the Main Ignition Switch Harness. (See http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/ or http://64.85.6.118/diagrams/diagrams.asp and select your Make, Model and Year for wire colors and clues on the quickest way to access these wires.)
4. Locate the Yellow Passlock Data Wire which is included in a bundle of three tiny (20 GA) wires wrapped in friction tape.
Cut this wire and splice a 0.5mm2 (20 GA) yellow wire to each end of the cut wire.
Keep wire length to a minimum. Route modification wires clear of moving parts.
Connect the yellow wires to the switch such that the contacts are OPEN when the switch is in the ON position.
5. Turn modification switch to the OFF postion (contacts closed).
6. Start vehicle to verify normal operation. If engine “cranks but will not start"
recheck the switch position (contacts should be closed), wire connectors and
modification wiring.

SWITCH OPERATION

To enable remote start:
Start the engine with the ignition key (modification switch must be in the OFF
position). Turn modification switch to the ON position (contacts open). The
SECURITY or THEFT telltale will light up indicating that the Passlock System is inoperative.
Once the SECURITY or THEFT telltale has been on for at least 5 seconds the vehicle can be turned off and then remotely started.

To disable remote start:
The Passlock System can be reactivated by turning the modification switch OFF
(contacts closed). Vehicle can either be running or off when this is done.

Please note that the VCM/PCM will record Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) related to the security system when the modification switch is in the ON position (circuit open). This is due to the way that the VCM/PCM interprets this condition.

NOTICE
Any condition which removes battery power from the Vehicle Control Module/Powertrain Control Module (VCM/PCM) (e.g. dead battery, disconnected harness connectors, etc.) will prevent the vehicle from being restarted. If the engine exhibits a “cranks but will not start” symptom, place the modification switch in the OFF (contacts closed) position. This will reactivate the Passlock System and allow the vehicle to be started with the ignition key.

Ray

Proud Member of The Anti-Passlock Club:smokin:


I spent all morning doing this operation exactly how its states ,with my 98 malibu ,My wife has a remote start unit installed (aftermarket) and will not function properly or start with this theft system active ,,so I went out got my good quality switch ,installed it cut the yellow wire and tested it first before making any soldering connections . switch off first turned car on ,flicked switch to on /open connection and theft light appeared and stayed on . waited 10 seconds to registar ,shut car off . than waited a few minutes ,used remote start it worked great ,but there was no light on dash (theft light ) only when i used my key did it illuminate and stay on . ....

45 minutes goes by after a coffee ,i tried the remote start and Shoooot .
it did not work ,theft light started flashing again ,I dodnt understand why within 30 minutes of using the remote it works fine but when it sits for more that 45 min the theft system acts up evan though the switch was left on and connections opened ?????.. grrrrrrrrr.. could it actually be a faulty lock cylinder after all ..

thanks for any input

I was recently working on my friends 99 Sunfire with the same passlock issues. Intermittent starting, Theft Light on, fuel system dissabled, etc.

I was running thru the relearn sequence when I stumbled across the solution to the problem. I had the key in the run position and tilted the steering wheel upward to get out of the car, upon doing this I heard the fuel pump kick on and the theft light went out, so I turned the key and the car started fine. Then I shut it off, tried it again and it started right up again. So I started to think that maybe it was related to the postion of the steering wheel. I moved the steering wheel back to the down positon and sure enough, the car wouldn't start and the theft light was on again. At this point I decided I needed to remove the steering column shrouds and find the cause. After removing the shounds, I turned the key to the run position and tilted the steering wheel up, and again the fuel pump kicked on and the theft light turned off. I found that the cause of the problem was the ignition harness didn't have enough slack and the connector at the left side of the column was being pulled outward (not completely out) every time the steering wheel was tilted down, and then pushed back into place when the steering wheel was tilted back up. I zip tied the connector to hold it in place, tested it with the steering wheel in all positions, and now it starts everytime without the theft light coming on.

Thought I would throw this out there as another thing to check for when dealing with this dreaded Passlock system, and THEFT Light.

Good Luck!

That particular symptom sure sounds like a bad ignition switch. It's very common on these cars.

Well, I finally got around to putting a new ignition switch in (Borg Warner) and I still have the same problem. When I turn the key to on all the dash lights go out and the theft light comes on, it does not blink, it comes on and stays on, I know at this point if I turn the key farther to start the car will not start. However, I have found a work around, when I give a little flick of my wrist when I turn the key from off to run all the dash lights come on and I can proceed to turn the key to start and the car starts right up. This was the case with the old swith and the new switch. I skimed through all the posts on this thread and I didn't see this exact problem.

Do you think I got a bad ignition switch (it was just the metal part that the key fits in, the auto part store called the part "ignition switch") or do you think there is something else wrong?

2003 malibu 3.1

Thanks for any help.

Well, I finally got around to putting a new ignition switch in (Borg Warner) and I still have the same problem. When I turn the key to on all the dash lights go out and the theft light comes on, it does not blink, it comes on and stays on, I know at this point if I turn the key farther to start the car will not start. However, I have found a work around, when I give a little flick of my wrist when I turn the key from off to run all the dash lights come on and I can proceed to turn the key to start and the car starts right up. This was the case with the old swith and the new switch. I skimed through all the posts on this thread and I didn't see this exact problem.

Do you think I got a bad ignition switch (it was just the metal part that the key fits in, the auto part store called the part "ignition switch") or do you think there is something else wrong?

2003 malibu 3.1

Thanks for any help.

You need a new ignition switch, has nothing to do with the key, it is electrical. What you replaced was the key assy?

You need a new ignition switch, has nothing to do with the key, it is electrical. What you replaced was the key assy?

Thanks for the response. The part I replaced was called an ignition switch by the auto parts store and according to my Haynes manual it was the ignition switch. It was a solid piece of metal (its the part the key goes into). But, it does plug into a large black plastic (my memory is a little fuzzy on this part) piece and all the wires plug into that and the metal piece I replaced slides into the center of that. It sounds like I need a new black plastic piece. Does that have a name? Do some people call the combination of the metal piece and the black plastic piece the ignition switch?

Thanks.

Thanks for the response. The part I replaced was called an ignition switch by the auto parts store and according to my Haynes manual it was the ignition switch. It was a solid piece of metal (its the part the key goes into). But, it does plug into a large black plastic (my memory is a little fuzzy on this part) piece and all the wires plug into that and the metal piece I replaced slides into the center of that. It sounds like I need a new black plastic piece. Does that have a name? Do some people call the combination of the metal piece and the black plastic piece the ignition switch?

Thanks.


The part with all the wires is the ignition switch. It gets confusing because it is normally called the ignition key, but the ignition switch is electrical and not the same thing. I am not familiar with the Malibu set up, I have yet to get into my 04 Malibu, on my truck there is a rod going from the key assy to the ignition switch. It should have lots of heavy wires, the main feed should be red.

The part with all the wires is the ignition switch. It gets confusing because it is normally called the ignition key, but the ignition switch is electrical and not the same thing. I am not familiar with the Malibu set up, I have yet to get into my 04 Malibu, on my truck there is a rod going from the key assy to the ignition switch. It should have lots of heavy wires, the main feed should be red.

Ya, I get it now. I think I replaced the ignition lock cyclinder. Ok, I guess back to the auto parts store. Hopefully I can buy the ignition switch without the lock cyclinder since I already have one of those.

Thank you for the info.

:banghead: My wife's 2004 Chevy malibu classic's engine will not turn over. The head lights come on, the radio and a/c works but the starter does not turn the engine over. I have jumped it at the starter and it runs until I shut off the key. Does this sound like the passlock issue or something else.... it is driving me :screwy:. A reply would be much appreciated.