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Brian R.
06-27-2005, 11:36 AM

Note: To put the extent of this problem in perspective, out of the over 3.3 million Toyota engines that are installed in vehicles covered by Toyota's extended warranty, only about 7,000 of them have had serious failures. That is 0.2% or about two failures in 1,000 engines.

Q: I have heard about some Camry engines having problems with sludge build-up. I was wondering if my car is likely to have that problem, and what I can do to prevent it. I have read that toyota claims it is just due to people not doing regular oil changes. If my year is affected by this problem, will doing these regular oil changes prevent it? Or is the problem almost inevitable?

A: In February 02 Toyota finally acknowledged the condition, without taking real blame for any engineering problems, and started to correct the affected engines. They had some conditions that had to be met but their Special Policy Adjustment was a good start. They finally showed their true corporate stance on the unfortunate problem. They have broadened the scope of the coverage, within the years and models affected.

In April 2002, Toyota said it has made a running production change to its widely used 3.0-liter V-6 engine that will improve circulation by enabling oil to drain faster into the sump - an apparent acknowledgement that engine design has been at least part of the problem.

Second, Toyota said it will pay for sludge-related repairs for eight years from the date of purchase for all 1997-2002 Toyota and Lexus vehicles with the 3.0-liter IMZ-FE V-6 engine and all 1997-2001 Toyota vehicles with the now discontinued 5S-FE 2.2-liter four-cylinder engine.

Toyota's new policy is a dramatic change from a so-called Special Policy Adjustment begun in February. Amid increasing criticism for refusing to deal with the problem, Toyota notified 3.3 million owners of the affected engines that sludge-related repairs would be covered for one year, as long as they proved the oil had been changed at least once in the previous year.

It insisted then - as it does with the new policy - that owner negligence is the cause of the problem.

In contrast to the February offer, Toyota's new policy:
Has no mileage limitation.
Covers owners who buy used vehicles.
Reimburses drivers who already have paid for repairs
Includes payments for tow trucks, rental cars and other incidental expenses resulting from engines that fill with sludge.

For the uninitiated, here is an example of what sludge looks like in an engine:


This seems affect mostly Avalon, Camry, Sienna, Highlander, Celica and most Lexus 300/RX series models with the model years after 1997 thru 2001/2002. Apparently, Toyota made a change in the engine design that actually contributed to the problem.

My biggest question is do I qualify? Here are the guidelines Toyota is using to establish the engines that are prone to having the sludge (gel) condition:

2.2 L I4
Camry Produced 8/96 - 7/01
Celica Produced 8/96 - 4/99
Corolla Produced 1998
Solara Produced 6/98 - 5/01

3.0 L V6
Camry Produced 8/96 - 7/02
Avalon Produced 7/96 - 5/02
Highlander Produced 11/00 - 7/02
Lexus ES300 Produced 8/98 - 7/02
Lexus RX300 Produced 1/98 - 7/02
Sienna Produced 7/97 - 5/02
Solara Produced 6/98 - 5/02

If you look at the vehicle identification label on the left door or left door post you can find the date of manufacture. It normally is one of the first things you can see on the upper left of the label (example 7/98 means it was made July, 1998).

The actual cause of the problem is an inability of the engine's crankcase ventilation system (PCV) to move the normal gases from the engine (fuel from blow-by, and water from combustion). When these gases stay longer in an hot engine it allows deposits to form on the metal parts of the engine. When enough deposits are present "Sludge" is formed.

Another contributor may be reduction of the size of cooling passages to the cylinder heads in those engines in order to increase combustion temperatures for more of a complete burn to reduce exhaust emissions. Excessive heat makes oil more susceptible to sludge. Cylinder-head temperatures as high as 260 degrees have been measured in those engines - 30 degrees higher than in earlier models.

The problem is magnified by short driving distances so that the engine oil never gets really hot, infrequent oil changes, or mechanical malfunctions. Using synthetic-based oil will also help minimize sludge formation since synthetic lubes are much less prone to oxidation than dino oils. Changing the oil more frequently will also help minimize sludge. There are alot of opinions on how often to change oil, but 3K miles for dino oil and 5K for synthetic oils are conservative and should be fine for most any engine (YMMV).

There are different "types" of sludge, they are of different appearance ranging from light brown to opaque black, they range from semi-liquid to solid, and they can be formed by different chemical reactions.

Since any sludge is formed primarily from the engine oil, the oil itself appears to be at fault. Actually the oil is the victim of mechanical and chemical attack.

The formation of sludge is a very complex interaction of components which include mechanical and thermal stress and multitude of chemical reactions.

Although there are thousands of documented engine failures in the field, not a single research chemist has to date succeeded to create a "synthetic" sludge under controlled laboratory conditions. The real life conditions are therefore so complex as to be virtually impossible to duplicate in laboratory, yet hundreds of engines all over the world fail daily due to sludge formation.

While some engine types are more prone to sludge formation, the fact is that only very small proportion of the "affected" engines actually fail in service.

Sludge in gasoline engines is usually a black emulsion of water and other combustion by-products, and oil formed primarily during low-temperature engine operation. Sludge is typically soft, but can polymerize to very hard substance. It plugs oil lines and screens, and accelerates wear of engine parts. Sludge deposits can be controlled with a dispersant additive that keeps the sludge constituents finely suspended in the oil.

"Black Sludge" is defined as thick to solid material with low water content, of dark color, light oil insolubles, and typically found in rocker cover, cylinder head, timing chain cover, oil sump, oil pump screen, and oil rings in variable quantities.

Sludge in diesel engines, is soot combined with other combustion by-products which can thicken the oil to gel like sludge. This sludge is typically soft, but can also polymerize to very hard substance. It plugs oil filters, oil lines and screens, and accelerates wear of engine parts.







More discussion on sludge formation:

How to prevent sludge:

What can I do since I have sludge?

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 11:54 AM
Q: What is the ACIS mod? What engines does it apply to? How do you do it?

A: This mod is meant for the 3VZ-FE engine, but may apply to 1MZ engines too.

Basically, the ACIS is a valve powered by an actuator operating by vacuum pressure that closes when engine revs past 3900 rpm to give better high end power. When it's open, it theoretically gives more low end torque, but the 3VZ-FE engine is already very torquey.

Furthermore, when the valve is open, the air is very turbulent and may actually limit airflow. So by making the ACIS close early, it will allow the engine to produce a smoother powercurve delivering peak power sooner. More power under 3900rpms and 50%+ TPS. It may be even more noticeable if you did some intake porting.

Link for How To:

After several trials, I noticed that only the plug on top of the throttle body that's closest to the driver seat provides enough vacuum to shut the ACIS at 1200-1500rpms. The lower vacuum plug shuts ACIS at 3500rpms.

Thanks sanengo!

Here's further clarification from Toysrme:

Better pics than copying my old setup is me correcting someone else's attempt. What we are doing, is plugging the ACIS Actuator into the E-vacuum port on the throttle body. This way, instead of the nasty ECU programming controlling the ACIS valve (>4000rpm, >/= 50% TPS, the car must be moving). It will open any time the throttle plate is open, and at any rpm. They should snap shut around 1250-1500rpm.

You can get small plastic T's at Wall-mart fish section. About 50 cents for a two pack.


This will improve the power around the 2000-4000rpm band.

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 12:16 PM
Historical Background for Camry:

1997 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/97_NCF.pdf
1998 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/98_NCF.pdf
1999 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/99_NCF.pdf
2000 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/00_NCF.pdf
2001 New Car Features: http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/99/01_NCF.pdf



Thanks to ToyotaNation for the following information.

Q: What are the years for the difference Camry Generations?

Gen1 = 83-86
Gen2 = 87-91
Gen3 = 92-96
Gen4 = 97-01
Gen5 = 02-06

Q: What larger capacity oil filters can I use on my Camry?

A: For 3VZ-FE (Gen 3) / 1MZ-FE (Gen 3,4) / 3MZ-FE (Gen 5) Camry V6 engines:

Part # for Toyota OEM filter: 90915-YZZD3
Filter is off 4Runner and Land Cruiser, it's slightly longer with (arguably) better filtration. Price should be the same as any Camry V6 oil filter.

For 5S-FE (Gen3, 4) Camry 4-cylinder engines:
Oil filter from Rav4: 90915-YZZA1

If the capacity of the lubrication system is increased substantially (such as adding a remote filter or multiple filters, etc), you must increase the fill of lubricant to match that of the additional capacity.

Q: What lowering springs are available for my Camry?

A: Gen2:
Intrax (all except All-Trac: #75.1.002)

Eibach Pro-Kit (4-cyl: #8226.240, V6: #8226.140)
H&R Sport
Intrax (4-cyl: #75.1.003, V6: #75.1.004)

Eibach Pro-Kit (4/6-cyl: #8249.140)

Eibach Pro-Kit
Tein S-Tech (#SKL20-AUB00)

Q: What performance struts are available for my Camry?

A: Gen2:
Tokico HP (inserts only) - (Front: #HZ3117 / Rear: #HZ3118)

Koni Special [Reds] (inserts only) (Front: #86-2484 / Rear: #86-2485)
KYB GR-2 (full replacements) (Front: #334131,334132 / Rear: #334133,334134)
Tokico HP (full replacements) (Front: #HB3179,HB3180 / Rear: #HB3181,HB3182)
Tokico HP (inserts only) (Front: #HZ3138 / Rear: #HZ3139A)

TRD (rebadged Bilstein)
Tokico HP (full replacements) (Front: #HB3184,HB3185 / Rear: #HB3181,HB3182)

Q: What light bulb are in my Camry?

A: Gen3:
Low Beam - 9006
High Beam - 9005
Front Turn Signals - 1156
Rear Turn Signals - 1156
Brake Lights - 1157
Parking Lights - 194

High & low beam - 9003
Front turn signal - 1157A
Rear turn signal - 3156
Parking light - 1157A
Tail light - 904/3157
Stop light - 3157
High mount stop light - 921
License plate - 2825
Back up light - 921
Front sidemarker - 1157A
Rear sidemarker - 194
Glove box - 37
Dome light - DE3175
Step/Courtesy light - DE3021
Trunk/Cargo area - 194
Instrument-general - 74/194

Q: What is the bolt pattern and stock wheel offset?

Bolt pattern: 5 x 100
Offset: +38mm

Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3
Offset: +38mm

Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3
Offset: +38mm

Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3
Offset: +50mm

ES 250 90-91 15 X 6 5X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
ES 300 92-97 15 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
GS 300 93-on 16 X 7.5 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
GS 400 98 16X7.5 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
GS 430 01-on 17 x 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
IS 300 2000-on 17 x 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
LS 400 90-94 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
LS 400 95-on 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
LS 430 2000-on 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
SC 300 92-96 16 X 6.5 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
SC 400 91-on 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
SC 430 8 2002-on 18x8.5 5x114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
LX 450 96-97 16 X 8 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 108 20mm
LX 470 97-on 16 x 8 5x150 - 110 35-45mm
RX300 98- 16x7 5x114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm

AVALON 95-97 15 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
CAMRY 83-91 13 X 5 5X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
CAMRY 92-on 14 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
CAMRY SOLARA 99-on 16 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
CELICA 76-85 14 X 6 4X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
CELICA 86-91 13 X 5.5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
CELICA 86-96 14 X 6 5X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
CELICA 90-96 15 X 6 5X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
CELICA 2000-on 15 X 6 5X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
COROLLA 88-96 13 X 5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
COROLLA 88-97 14 X 5.5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
CRESSIDA 85-88 15 X 6 4X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
CRESSIDA 89-92 15 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
ECHO 00-on 13 X 4.5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
MR-2 85-89 14 X 6 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
MR-2 90-92 14 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
MR-2 92-95 15 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
MR-2 SPYDER 00-on - 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
PASEO 92-96 14 X 5.5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
PRIUS 01-on 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
SUPRA 79-82 14 X 6 4X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
SUPRA 93-96 16 X 8 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
SUPRA 93-96 17 X 8,F 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
SUPRA 93-96 17 X 9,5,R 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
SUPRA L 83-85 15 X 6 4X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
SUPRA,TURBO 86-93 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
TERCEL 83-97 13 X 4.5 4X100 12mmX1.5 54.1 35-45mm
PICKUP 2WD 80-95 14 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 - 0mm/20mm
PICKUP 4WD, 4 RUNNER 80-95 15 X 7 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 - 0mm/20mm
4-RUNNER 96-97 16 X 7 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 - 20mm
4WD PICKUP 86-95 15 X 6 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 - 0mm/20mm
HIGHLANDER 01-on 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 20mm
LANDCRUISER 69-92 15 X 6 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 - 0mm/20mm
LANDCRUISER 93-97 16 X 8 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 - 20mm
LANDCRUISER 98-on 16 X 8 5X150 14mmX1.5 110 35-45mm
PREVIA 90-94 14 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
PREVIA 91-96 15 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
RAV4 96-97 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 67.1 35-45mm
RAV4 00-on 16 X 7 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 67.1 -
SEQUOIA 01-on 16 X 7 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 108 20mm
SIENNA 97- 15 X 6 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 60.1 35-45mm
T-100 93-96 15 X 6 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 108 20mm
TACOMA 2WD 95-97 14 X 5.5 5X114.3 12mmX1.5 67.1 20mm/35-45mm
TACOMA 4WD 95-97 15 X 7 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 108 20mm
TUNDRA 99-on 16 X 7 6X139.7 12mmX1.5 108 20mm
VAN WAGON 2WD 84-90 14 X 5.5 4X114.3 12mmX1.5 - 20mm

Read more: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-generation/545295-what-other-factory-wheels-did-you-fit.html#ixzz2fppUmTLK

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 12:33 PM

Q: Often my starter will just click and not turn over the engine. It will do this for a long time, but eventually it will act normally. Is this a common problem with Camrys? How can I fix it?

A: Yes, it is a common problem with Toyota starters. Many times, the problem is sticking starter solenoid contacts. See the following links for descriptions on how to replace them. This is a really cheap and easy fix on a Camry and should be the first thing you try after you check all the cable connections and the battery quality.

Some Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter-repair reference sites:


Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (www.metroautoinc.com (http://www.metroautoinc.com) ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511)

For others besides 22R series:

Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)

Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5231
Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape)
Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape)
Metro # 66-82106 (www.metroautoinc.com (http://www.metroautoinc.com) ,Pomona,California)
Tons more at:
Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson’s Electric # 45-29-652

Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones, or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

Thanks to SidneyCanada for the above information


Q: What if the starter clicks not once, but very fast and does not turn the engine over?

A:The problem you're having is not the solenoid contacts as described above. With bad solenoid contacts, there is only one click (the starter relay), not many. Your problem is insufficient current/voltage getting to the starter.

Most likely cause is a bad battery. Before you buy one, check the battery terminals - make sure they are on tight and they are clean. Check the connections on the other end of the battery cables for tightness and cleanliness also. If all looks good, replace the battery.

If the battery cable connections are bad, loosen them from the battery and clean them with baking soda/water slurry until they are bright metal, then reconnect them and tighten them snug. Coat them with petroleum jelly to prevent them from corrosion.

It it's possible something has been left on, like your headlights or dome light etc. and the battery may be drained/discharged, try charging it first or bring it in to have it tested before you buy a new one.


Q: How do you change a 2002 4cyl. Camry serpentine belt? What needs to be loosened?

A: First thing is to draw a diagram of the pulleys and how the belt is routed. for some reason toyota decided that they didnt need to put a sticker with this info under the hood...

Next, right behind the alternator, their is an aluminum type plate that is conected to the tensioner pulley. it has what looks like a nut welded to a plate, i think it is 14mm. put a socket wrench on that and use some power and push it down (it takes quite a bit so if your operating solo use a pipe on the end of the wrench for leverage while you take the belt off with the other hand). This will loosen the belt enough to get it off the alternator pulley. Switch out the belt, and reverse the process to get it back on.

You can see the tensioner if you look straight now the side of the engine, it looks like a little shock absorber, and is attached to both the pulley and that plate.


Q: My blower motor doesn't work for the bottom three speeds. What is the problem - is it the motor or what?

A: It is most likely a bad connection or bad resistor on the resistor block that controls the current to the motor. See the discussion in the following links:



Brian R.
06-27-2005, 12:43 PM
Thanks to yotarepair.com for alternative instuctional drawings:


Q: My engine stopper running suddenly on the highway and now it won't start. Any guesses as to what the problem is? How do I replace my timing belt? What should I replace while I'm in there to save time in the future?

A: It sounds like you may have broken your timing belt. If you can see the cam shafts by looking through the oil filler hole in the head cover, then you can use these as an indicator. If the cams don't turn when the engine is cranked, your timing belt is broken. You may have to remove the valve cover.

You can also tell if your timing belt has broken by removing the distributer cap and seeing if the rotor moves when you crank the engine. If the rotor doesn't move, then you broke the timing belt.

Here are links to instructions for replacing the timing belt in various Camry engines:

1C-LTC, 2C-LTC, 2S-ELC, 3S-FE, 5S-FE, 2VZ-FE, 3VZ-FE, 1MZ-FE



5S-FE (also http://yotarepair.com/5S-FEtimingbelt.html )

1MZ-FE (also http://yotarepair.com/1FZ-ME_timingbelt.html )

Additional Comments on Replacing Timing Belts

Other than the timing belt whether or not you need more parts depends on if there are any fluid leaks inside the timing cover, the water pump may need to be replaced and there may be oil seals such as the front crankshaft seal or the camshaft seals that may be leaking and need to be replaced.

If you do it yourself, make sure you understand how to set #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke. Also, be prepared to stop and put everything back together if you find you cannot remove the crank pulley bolt. I think this is the hardest part from a strength point of view. Air gun is best way. Really long cheater bar with tool to hold the crank is also good.

Also, be careful and gentle with the new timing belt. Handle it as if it were a piece of gold foil. Don't bend it sharply, contaminate it with anything, or turn it inside out.

Don't scratch the sensor part of the crankshaft timing pulley.

Don't use the timing belt tension to tighten the mounting bolt of the camshaft timing pulley.

If there is noticeable wear or cracks on the belt face, check to see if there are nicks on the side of the idler pulley lock.

If there is wear or damage on only one side of the belt, check the belt guide and alignment of each pulley.

If there is noticable wear on the belt teeth, check the timing cover for damage, correct gasket installation, and for foreign material on the pulley teeth.

Check to make sure the idler pulley turns smoothly. If not, replace.

Clean all the pulleys and keep them clean.

If you have to turn the crankshaft, always turn it clockwise.

Make sure you have all the gaskets you need. Clean the gasket surfaces to shiny metal everywhere before you replace the gaskets. Replace the timing cover gaskets if they are at all questionable.

Make note of all the electical connections you disconnect when you disconnect them. Make sure they are all connected when you are done (DOH!).

Consider replacing the water pump simultaneously. It will be accessible when you are replacing the belt. Also, check the accessory drive belts and replace them if they are old.

Torque everything.

Q: What is an interference engine and is my Toyota engine an interference engine? Why should I care?

A: An interference engine is one in which the valves and pistons can touch if the cams and crank are not kept in correct timing by the timing belt or chain. Most (not all) Toyota passenger car engines are free-running (non-interference engines). This means that if your timing belt breaks, then all that will happen is your engine will not run anymore until the belt is replaced. In an interference engine, piston-to-valve contact will cause very serious damage to the engine if the timing belt breaks.

To see if your engine is an interference engine or not, look it up in the following brochure:


An asterisk opposite your engine means it is an interference engine.

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 03:30 PM
Q: Where can I purchase Toyota Service and Repair Manuals for my Camry?

A: Printed copies of all Toyota, Scion, and Lexus service support information can be purchased directly from the Toyota Materials Distribution Center or MDC. The MDC stocks printed versions of most Toyota service information products, including legacy model information that is not available on this site.

Note: Certain inventory items are produced in limited quantities and may not be reprinted or reissued once initial inventory is depleted.

MDC telephone operators accept Visa and MasterCard credit card orders, Monday through Friday, 8 AM to 5 PM Pacific Time.

To place orders call 1-800-622-2033


Q: Where can I purchase transmission repair manuals?

A: http://www.autorepairmanuals.biz/site/573683/page/267592


Brian R.
06-27-2005, 06:40 PM

Thanks to Sparky at talkaboutautos.com

Q: How do I program a transponder ignition key for my Toyota/Lexus vehicle?

A: 98-01 CAMRY's: The programming sequence for adding another key (Toyota key part number 89785-26020) to the Camry, according to the ILCO key company catalog, and a Toyota maintenance manual I have seen, is as follows: Simultaneously depress and release the brake and accelerator pedals 1 time (one instruction kind of hints that you should hold the pedals down while you insert the master key, the next step). Insert the master key in the ignition, but do not turn it. Within 15 seconds press & release the accelerator pedal 5 times. Then within 20 seconds press & release the brake pedal 6 times. Within 10 seconds remove the master key, and insert the new key. Within 10 seconds press & release the accelerator 1 time. The security light will stay off after 60 to 80 seconds indicating the re-programming was successful. Remove the new key, and depress & release the brake pedal 1 time.

02 TO EARLY-03 CAMRY's: The programming sequence for adding another key (Toyota key part number 89785-26020) to the Camry, according to the key company catalog is as follows: Make sure all windows and doors are closed, and insert the master key in the ignition. Cycle the ignition key ON/OFF 5 times and leave the key in the lock. Open/Close the driver side door 6 times. Remove the original key and insert the new duplicate key, BUT DO NOT TURN THE KEY ON. The theft light will stay off after 60 to 80 seconds indicating the re-programming was successful. Do not laugh while executing this sequence.

MID-03 TO 2004 CAMRY's: Currently there is no (easily available) programming sequence that the customer can use. A new key is used (Toyota key part number 89785-60160) that has a small letter "o" stamped on the brass part of the key up near the handle. Apparently, only the dealer can program in a new transponder code into the ECM via the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) computer.

ACE hardware and others, sell the non-"o" key for much less than $75, but you have to program the ECM in the car yourself. Camelback Toyota charges $150 to supply & program a key for a Mid-03 Camry. Larry Miller Toyota sells the key for $75 and programs it for free. Bell Road Toyota sells the key for $75, but it's not clear if they charge for programming. If the ECM is truly programmed through the OBD, then I think it is only a matter of time before somebody like Pep Boys or Autozone will do it too!

According to the ILCO catalog, all of the key numbers programmed into a 98 to Early-03 ECM (other than the number of the key you are using) can be deleted by using the following sequence: Simultaneously depress & release the brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. Insert a working key into the ignition but do not turn it. Within 15 seconds depress & release the accelerator pedal 6 times. Within 20 seconds depress & release the break pedal 7 times. The security light will flash indicating that all key numbers, other than the one being used, have been deleted from the ECM memory. Within 10 seconds remove the key from the ignition switch. This is now the only key that will work.

Brian Edit: Here's a link to the ILCO catalog:


An alternative to reprogramming the ECM when you have no programed master key:

Stefan: "I called the parts department at local dealership I usually get parts from (I own a custom body&paint/collision shop) and they told me, that there is a way to get TOYOTA CORP. to actually replace the ECM free of charge, all I have to pay for is two keys @ $41 list price and the labor to swap out the ECM.

The car has to have original ECM it came from the factory with, simple as that!

I called TOYOTA Corp, they asked a few questions and ran a VIN# in their sytem and said my car falls under that category for a FREE ECM!! WOOT!. They said it will take 3-5 business days to mail/ship the ECM to the dealership of my choice, once it gets there, dealership will call me to bring/tow the car in and all I have to pay is for the labor to swap out ECM AND the cost for 2 new keys!, I will update you on the outcome of this situation."




Locksmith Charley has the following instructions posted:

These procedures are modified from those published in other forums after several experiences with cars not programming up in an efficient manner. This procedure was developed with the kind assistance of Randy Mize who provides technical support for ILCO’s SDD machine. I also received valuable input on this subject from Mike Labar.

Of primary importance is determining if you have a key that is enrolled in the car’s computer as a “master” key or a “valet” key. The procedure for making this determination is:

1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition.

2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur:
(a) Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key.
(b) Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key
(c) Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key

If you have only a VALET key or an unrecognized key then the ECM will have to be reprogrammed or “flashed” before you are able to add any more keys to the vehicle. The ECM reprogramming (flashing) service can be provided to you by LOCKSMITH CHARLEY (1-602-230-8888 or 1-800-313-5397) at the shop at 2308 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix AZ 85016. If you are not local to the Phoenix area you can ship the ECM to us and we can flash it and send it back to you the same day we receive it.

Once you have determined that you have an enrolled MASTER key you may proceed to either:
(a) delete all other keys from the car’s computer
(b) add an additional MASTER key to the car’s computer.
(c) add an additional VALET key to the car’s computer.


A - Delete all keys other than present master key
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Within 15 seconds press and release the gas pedal 6 times.
9. Within 20 seconds, forcefully press and release the brake pedal 7 times. The Security light will blink.
10. Within 10 seconds, remove the master key. All other keys should be deleted from the car’s computer.

B - add an additional MASTER key to the car’s computer
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9. Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10. Remove key
11. Place new key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
12. Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13. Wait (about 1 minute) for security light to stop blinking.
14. Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15. Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16. Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end
17. Insert new key into ignition lock and start the vehicle.

C - add an additional VALET key to the car’s computer
1. Make sure all windows are rolled up and all doors are shut.
2. From outside the car LOCK the car door with the key.
3. From outside the car UNLOCK the car door with the key.
4. Enter vehicle and close the door.
5. Start the car’s engine.
6. Turn engine off and remove key.
7. Place master key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
8. Press and release the gas pedal 5 times.
9. Forcefully press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
10. Remove key
11. Place new key in the ignition lock. (DO NOT TURN ON.)
12. Press and release the gas pedal 1 time.
13. Wait (about 1 minute) for security light to stop blinking.
14. Remove new key from the ignition lock.
15. Press brake pedal 1 time to close programming cycle.
16. Wait 15 seconds for programming cycle to end
17. Insert new key into ignition lock and start the vehicle.

This information is presented to you as a public service of:
2308 E. Indian School Rd.
Phoenix AZ 85016
(602) 230-8888 / 1-800-313-5397

Here is a discussion of the various types of keys:


Brian R.
06-27-2005, 06:56 PM

Q: How can I find out what maintenance is recommended for my Camry at 60k (or whenever)?

A: Fill out the form on the following site: http://www.edmunds.com/car-maintenance/guide-page.html

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 07:01 PM

Q: What is the best motor oil to use in my car and how often should I change it? What is the best brand of oil filter?

A: These questions have more answers and opinions than there are grains of sand on a beach. Read opinions at the following site and become one of the opinionated on these subjects:


As a general rule, if you want longer oil-change intervals and don't mind paying more for your oil, use an oil with a synthetic base stock such as Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec, etc. Use the oil viscosity that is recommended in your owner's manual.

To determine the optimum oil change frequency for your vehicle requires that you perform several oil analysis during one oil change interval. For example, if your vehicle has 15,000 miles on it and the manufacturer recommends 7500 mile oil changes for normal service and 5000 miles for severe, perform an analysis at 18,750 miles, 20,000 miles, and 22,500 miles (if the first or second test shows a need for an oil change then stop there). Do not exceed the manufacturer's normal service interval even if the analysis shows no need for an oil change at 7500 miles. The oil change industry desperately desires that you NOT perform such an analysis. The almost certain result for most drivers will be that even at 7500 miles the oil will still be fine.

Even after your vehicle is out of warranty it is a good idea to continue to follow the manufacturer's schedule for maintenance. There are frequently special campaigns (not recalls) to fix latent defects after the warranty has expired. Lately we've seen these on some Toyota V6 engines and some Saturn engines. You want the manufacturer to have no excuse to deny coverage. Also you can sometimes get a manufacturer to share the cost of an expensive repair when something fails after the warranty has expired, but this is at their pleasure and it is best to have solid proof that you have followed the maintenance schedules.

Big oil users like bus companies and truck fleets use oil analysis to extend the life of their engines without unnecessary oil changes. The reasons are clear. These big engines can use 3-4 gallons of oil and unnecessary changes are expensive in both time and materials. In some cases they change the filters and put in additives to replace the acid neutralizers and anti-wear agents. A good analogy is swimming pool maintenance. You clean the filters, you remove the debris, you add stabilizers and disinfectants, but you rarely empty the whole pool and refill it.

Two places to get your oil analyzed are:

Lubricon Lubricant Consultants, Inc 350 E. Churchman Ave. Beech Grove, IN 46107 (317) 783-2968

Cleveland Technical Center 18419 Euclid Avenue Cleveland, OH 44112-1016 (800) 726-5400

Never use a non-API certified synthetic oil (there are many of these on the market). The problem with the non-API certified synthetics is that they contain too much phosphorus (in the form of the additive ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)). The API has limited the amount of phosphorus because phosphorus shortens the life of the catalytic converter. These oils are fine for snowmobiles, motorcycles, and older cars that don't have a catalytic converter, and the extra ZDDP does provide additional wear protection.

Unfortunately, the marketers of some the non-certified oils do not explicitly and honestly state the reason for the lack of API certification. You can check the status of API certification on the API web site. Be certain to go not just by the manufacturer name but by the actual product as well. This is because a manufacturer often have both certified and non-certified products. Suffice it to say that Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Castrol, & Havoline all make synthetic oils that are API certified and that can be purchased at auto parts stores and other retail outlets. AMSOIL has one product line, XL-7500 that is API certified, but it's other lines contain too much ZDDP to be certified and should not be used in vehicles with catalytic converters.




Q: What oil filters are the best?

A: Here are studies performed on various brands of filters. Make your own judgement:






Q: What about the various oil additives?

A: Here's a discussion on the subject:

In general, lubricating oil contain additive packages that have been certified to provide a minimum level of protection as specified by the specification they meet (SF or whatever). Adding an additive to the oil is something you should do sparingly.

For a discussion of additive packages, see:

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 07:08 PM

Q: What lubricants should I use in my '96 Camry differential, transmission, engine, etc?

A: Look up your vehicle on the AMSOIL website and look down the list for the lubricant they recommend:


Brian R.
06-27-2005, 07:26 PM
Thanks to sanengo and Toysrme for the following ideas:

Want more horsepower? Not enough money for a Turbo?

(If you have enough money and time to hook up a turbo in a 5S-FE, see:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3860815&postcount=50 )



Q: How do I increase the power of my Camry?

A: Custom weld a wider Y-pipe for V6. Brospeed (Bosal) used to sell a header bolt on kit for V6, but it has now been discontinued. (2.5" recomended and a device to lean out fuel)

Performance headers (Not emissions safe)

Hi-flow cat with wider downpipe: 2.5" should be enough for i4, 3" for V6

Exhaust: For those with i4 engines, swapping to the V6 muffler does help if you have other exhaust mods. For V6 owners, custom mufflers don't do much. In general, anything after the CAT won't do much.

Installing a performance air filter or cold air intake (CAI) is not a very wise investment for power, but if every bit helps, and you enjoy a more throaty sound, go for it. Get recommendations from others with your engine. Some intakes actually cost you power, but sound louder.

Make sure there is some give to the CAI system. Some CAIs bolt directly to the engine and to the body at each end. When the engine moves, the end bolted to the body has no give and may tear the bolts out of the body where attached.

TRD, AEM, and AMSOIL sell excellent and reusable oil-impregnated air filters. The AEM and TRD filters are the same and are cotton-fiber based. The AMSOIL filter is multi-layer foam.[/edit]

CLEAN YOUR ENGINE TO REGAIN LOST POWER! Carb cleaner, GM top engine cleaner, or SeaFoam to start with. GET RID OF ENGINE CARBON! Believe it or not, spraying a small stream of water through the brake booster vacuum line of your engine can clear away carbon deposites VERY efficiently. (Just don't hydrolock your engine, if the engine is choking too much push on the butterfly valve on your TB)

[B]For any vane-flap Toyota vehicle. 22RE's, 3S's, VZ blocks... And most other AFM vehicles.

This is a vane-flap air-flow meter. You slice the silicon glue off the top, and pry the black plastic top off Exposing the innards.


An AFM. It is not a MAF... They measure the VOLUME of airflow, by a flap, held closed by spring tension. On top of the flap is a small arm, which rotates along what essentially is a pointometer.

The ECU sends an exact voltage to the AFM, and reads the flap. It also reads a small air temperature sensor in the AFM housing. From this -> an AFM can accurately meter the MASS of airflow. (the important part!)

1) Reset the ecu - pull the EFI fuse for one nanosecond and replace it
2) Cut glue
3) Pry UP plastic top
5) Rotote cog clockwise

3 clicks, 5 clicks, 7 clicks seem to be where people like. As soon as you get over the shock factor, most of the gain is 5-7 clicks.


You'll gain mid rpm range power. You'll also gain top rpm range power under a high load (i.e. top gear-top speed runs). Don't be surprised if you rev back to back in park and it's a tad slower from less fuel -> it will be noticeably faster on the street when there is a load on the engine.

Grind down your ACIS valve and clear away carbon deposits to smooth out this turbulent area.

Porting the upper intake manifold doesn't really do jack. I've always told people to take the throttlebody off and knife edge the 1/2" flat surface behind it, but it doesn't make any impact on anything near stock. The upper intake air chamber splits the intake into a top and bottom section. The split is after the throttlebody, and very un-aerodynamic.

(Thanks to Toysrme for this discussion)

Here's how to build the only intake that *actually* does something constructive:
Get on ebay & buy a 2.75" to 3" silicon coupler, and an AFM Adapter WITH a cone filter. That should set you back $25-30.

Go to... Anywhere Lowes/Home Depot/Auto parts store. Buy a plastic 5/8" barb, 2' of 5/8" hose, and something like Automotive Goop.

1) Drill/grind a 5/8" hole in the top, or bottom of the AFM housing on the flat spot, AFTER everything & just BEFORE the hose flange as shown in the following picture


2) Cut the barb in half, leaving the flange on one side intact (Mine was a 5/8" to 3/4" barb)


3) Push the hose barb in the hole from the inside out. That way it catches on the flange & gives you some surface area. Check the fit of the bard in the hole and then Goop/Epoxy/whatever the hose barb in place.


4) Bolt the AFM adapter to the AFM, & clamp the filter on
5) Clamp the silicon coupler to the AFM
6) Rotate the entire intake clockwise about 45-60* on the throttlebody when you install it
7) Install the 5/8" hose VERY GENTLY
8) Reconnect the AFM
9) Pull the EFI fuse, and count to One - Brandon-kicks-a-lot-of-ass. Then replace it.

This accomplishes moving the AFM as close to the throttle plate as possible. This increases the resolution of data that the ECU see's to the maximum it ever will, and increase throttle response across the board. It also gives the best transition, shortest, and smallest amount of intake restrictions currently possible. It's the only way you're *actually* going to gain power with an intake, unless the intake includes a n2o fogger, or a turbo at some point.

Not to mention it's... A very aggressive sound. Especially after modding the ACIS closed.
Remember to take off the wire clip on the AFM to get the harness off... Otherwise you'll rip half the PCB out when you tug the cable.



(I had some 2.75" couplers on hand so I used that. But you want to use a 2.75" to 3" coupler.
You can also adjust the AFM cog. See previous discussion on that.

1) http://www.doaracingengines.com/4cylcamshafts.html
2) http://www.mr2.com/Performance.html
4) http://www.procarparts.com/
5) http://www.rippmods.com/
6) http://store.summitracing.com
7) http://www.securityrace.com
8) http://www.cscracing.com/se.htm

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 08:55 PM

Q: Anyone have any recomendations for body kits for my Camry?

A: Try these sites for starters:



Brian R.
06-27-2005, 09:01 PM

Q: What are the best brake linings for my Camry? Are there any things I should watch out for in changing them?

A: The Toyota OEM linings are very good and I recommend them for most uses - I use them exclusively. They are quiet, have good life, and don't trash the rotor/drum. Ceramic linings have been recommended to me, but I haven't tried them. Cheap asbestos linings generally sound like Cooter's Hell when you are stopping and should be used only if you and anyone riding in your car are deaf.

You should refinish the rotors if there are any grooves worn in the rotors or if there is any side-to-side wobble (runout). Drums always have to be refinished.

Also, be careful not to inhale brake dust from the old pads. Don't blow the dust with your lungs or compressed air to clean the brake parts. Clean the old backing plate, rotor, caliper, etc. with a spray brake cleaner. Use a drip pan to catch the run-off.

Always use new springs for the drum brakes. Use high temperature brake grease on all pivot points in drum braking systems.

Don't get any liquid on the brake linings or they will be garbage. Don't even touch the linings with your fingers.

Watch for wetness around the wheel cylinders, particularly inside behind the dust shields. The cylinders have to be honed or replaced if they leak at all.

Flush your brake system periodically to get rid of water and contaminents. These lower the boiling point of the brake fluid and can cause brake failure or pitting of the wheel cylinders.

Back off the star wheels on the bottom of the drum mechanism to allow the brake linings to clear the ridge created by drug wear. Use two screwdrivers or other bladed tools that fit in the oval opening covered by the rubber boot.

Last but not least, after you change your linings, drive your car like your grandmother for a week or two. This finish cures the brake lining material and will give you a much longer brake life.


Q:I 've noticed this problem for quite a while. The brake pedal shakes (vibrates) when braking at or above 50 mph. It happens every time i go down a long slope or on highway. The streering wheel shakes a little bit too. It does not happen below 40 mph. I change the brake pads (front) this March and it did not fix the problem. So what can be the problem? Thanks

A: Your brake rotor runout is excessive. basically they're warped

Q: Then what work needs to be done? Replace the rotors or resurface them?

A: You are correct; resurface them if there is enough meat left on them (wherever you take them to be cut will check the thickness first) or replace them with new ones. If there is plenty of pad left, just sand the pads lightly so they will seat better to the new rotor surface.


Q: Okay so as I'm driving down the road sometimes my emergency brake light comes on and then after a little while it goes off. Also when I push the button to make sure that it's not engaged the light still doesn't go off. Is there something that I can check, or is there something that may have gotten crossed?

A: You are most likely low on brake fluid in the master cylinder. After checking and refilling the master cylinder, inspect the thickness of the front brake pads and the thickness of the pads or shoes in the rear. When the fluid level drops that far, it usually indicates there has been considerable wear on them and it might be time for replacement of the pads and/or shoes. (Mike Gerber)

Here's an article on rotor problems:

How brakes work:

How disc brakes work:

How drum brakes work:

How anti-lock brakes work:

Here are general discussions on the topic:


Brian R.
06-27-2005, 10:02 PM

Q: Please tell me how to calculate the speedometer error if I go to different than stock tire diameters.

A: Here is a calculator just for that purpose:

Brian R.
06-27-2005, 10:31 PM









Toyota security systems in general:


Brian R.
06-28-2005, 09:03 AM

Q: What does the button on my console labeled "ECT" do?

A: ECT is an abreviation for "Electronically Controlled Transmission". The button has two positions, "POWER" and "NORMAL". When switched to the "POWER" position, the ECM shifts the transmission at higher engine rpm in every gear. It also affects the function of the torque converter lock-up mechanism.

For further discussion see the following thread:


With regard to the stiffness of the upshifts, in all of the A140, and A54X transmissions, as the throttle angle rises, more pressure is built up. This does not change the maximum pressure exerted during the shift, or while in gear. Thus the shift stiffness is unchanged in either ECT mode.

(Thanks to Toysrme for adding the above clarification on shift stiffness.)


Q: What is the function of the overdrive? Is it a separate unit or actually part of my transmission? What happens when I push the button on the side of my shifter and light the "O/D OFF" indicator?

A: The overdrive is the highest (lowest numerically) gear in your transmission, by definition higher geared than 1:1 or direct drive - and it is integral with your transmission. When you push the button on the shifter and light the "O/D OFF" indicator, you prevent your transmission from engaging the O/D gear and it stays in the next highest gear.

Preventing OD from engaging is useful when you are in stop and go traffic and never get above 30 mph for any length of time. Then, the only time you engage the O/D gear is when you let off the accelerator - causing the transmission to make an unnecessary upshift when you are slowing down. It is also useful to disengage the O/D when you are in hilly country or towing and find your transmission is not able to stay in the high gear. It is better to maintain the next highest gear by turning off the O/D than to have the transmission searching for the correct gear.

How an automatic transmission works:

Brian R.
06-28-2005, 03:55 PM

Q: Where can I find Tech Service Bulletins for my Camry?
A: http://www.alldata.com/tsb/Toyota/index-issue.html





Gen4 Camry:

Gen5 Camry:

Brian R.
06-28-2005, 10:26 PM

Q: I just had my starter replaced in my '95 Camry and now I've found that the cruise control doesn't work. The light just flashes and the car doesn't hold cruising speed. Anyone have any idea what I should do?

A: Check the connection near the front of the cruise control actuator. Make sure it is tight and clipped together. The cruise control actuator is next to the battery. The actuator connector is near the radiator. It is common for mechanics to overlook reconnecting this actuator after work has been done on the engine.


Q: When my 2.2L Camry is idling and the transmission is in Drive, the steering wheel vibrates pretty strong. However, there is no vibration when the transmission is in Neutral or Park. Is this a serious problem?

A: As long as the vibration is only moderate, this is normal for a transverse mounted 4-cylinder Camry. The engine pulses and moves forward and back, moving the steering wheel slightly with each cylinder firing. If the vibration is very strong, it is likely that you have a loose or defective motor mount.


Q: My brake warning light on my dash comes on when I go around corners or stop suddenly. Is this normal? Will it be expensive to fix?

A: It is likely that the warning light is coming on because your brake fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir is getting too low. There is a level indicator in the reservoir and it detects the change in fluid level when the fluid shifts because of braking or cornering. Fill the reservoir and the problem should go away.


Q: Almost a month ago I noticed the the 3 warning lights would come on and off intermitently, but lately they are mostly on. I haven't noticed any change in the driving, but thought it might be worth checking. Any ideas of what maybe the cause?

A: When the instrument panel warning lights get flakey like you describe, almost always it's the alternator.

Brian R.
06-29-2005, 07:53 PM

Q: I bought a used 1997 Camry XLE with 60,000 miles about 2 years ago. Most times when I go over a speed bump or pothole, there is a distinct rattle or clunk in the right front suspension. There is no noise in the left front. One mechanic said it was a worn bushing and the part cost over $200 and $150 labor to replace. Other than the noise, the suspension seems OK. Should I have the bushing replaced or just go for 2 new struts? Or is there an less expensive alternative?

A: What the mechanic meant by front bushing may be the suspension suport or the strut mount bearing (see below).


If either of these items are damaged, your strut may no longer be held properly by the strut mount. If this is the case, you will definitely want to replace these parts as one of the things that can happen is that the spring may slide off the strut when hitting a bump. This will cause some pretty severe problems. The strut mount is pretty expensive...but it is definetely not worth it to wait.

Here are the TSBs for 1997 xle v6:

TSB # PG027-02 for Steering/Suspension - Ball Joint Inspection

TSB # ST008-01 for Front Suspension - Squeaking

TSB # SU001-00 for Suspension - Front Support Change Reduces Noise (a redesigned suspension support at the top of the strut tower)

TSB # SU003-98 for Suspension - Groans From Front Driving Over Bumps (involves replacing the "bump" rubber on the strut shaft with a new piece featuring six additional ribs)

TSB #SU00796 for Suspension - Rattle/Popping Noise From Front

Q: What years of Camrys are susceptable to getting this noise from the defective strut towers?

A: All Camrys '97 - '00

Q: Are the strut mounts easy to replace? having no experience w/ macpherson struts, my worst fear is unbolting the top off the strut mount and my last sight is seeing a spring launching out like a minuteman missile :)

A: You have to remove the strut from the car as an assembly, then use a spring compressor.

Q: Are the front spring bumpers easy to replace? actually, i have no idea what this is. i'm assuming its probably some type of polyurethane or rubber bumper/bushing between the strut tower and the strut mount. please correct me if i'm wrong here.

A: Spring Bumper- you will see it under the Upper strut mount/Upper Spring seat at the top of the strut shaft. Yes, they are easy to replace if you have a spring compressor to disassemble the strut.

Q: Do i need any special tools? SST from Toyota?

A: No. Just a spring compressor if you replace the shock.

After changing these parts out, do i need to do a 2 wheel or 4 wheel alignment?

A: No. Replacing the strut mounts does not change the steering or suspension geometry.


1) Do not remove the center nut (on the upper strut mount) while you have the strut assembly removed from the car without the spring compressor installed properly on the spring (tension off the center nut).

2) If the Car has ABS Brakes be very careful with the ABS Sensor/ Wire ($$Expensive). When the strut is removed don't let the lower control arm hang by the ABS wire!

Struts still in good shape? Now would be the time to change them!

OK, I had the famous '97-99 clonking problem. After changing the sway bar links and bushings it was still there and I opted to change the strut mount.

This is actually not hard at all, a little sweat and time is all it takes if you are aware of the following, which I learned:

First lesson: The strut to control arm bolts are 22mm.

Of course I had 17,18,19,20,21,23,24,25 mm but no 22mm. Now I have. Set me back 1/2 hour.

Second lesson: The left and right side are different.

It dos not say on the strut mount box (from KYB) nor in the Haynes (I think). It is not stamped on the new mounts. BUT it is stamped on the old ones. This is done so that when you throw out the old ones you realized that there is a difference. And have to do it over again, due to Murphys law. (You had 50% chance of getting it right, but you will get it wrong).

I had the left strut out while I had put the left mount in the right side! So I thought: "Just use the old left mount, but change the bearing as these are the ones always wearing out on other cars, then I can just change the right mount back mount". This brings me to lesson #3:

Thrid Lesson: It is the strut mount that is worn, not the bearing.

After finishing up, I drove to the Diner. And the left side with the old mount/new bearing was still making noise. !$#@. Back on the Jack Stand, changing the strut mount and putting it back together.

But now everything is quiet. That is, now I can hear my rear mounts clonking..........

All in all, with some help from my father in law compressing the springs (this helps) it took me from 10:30AM to 5PM, including lunch and a trip for the right socket.

Hope this will help someone not do the same mistakes I did and get the job done faster.


PS Use a torque wrench 'cause it is surprising how tight some of the nuts have to be tightened and others not.

PPS I got my strut mounts (KYB OEM) at autopartswarehouse.com. ~$65 each + two day shipping.. Much cheaper than local, non-oem.

PPS My struts are original ('97) and in fine shape, rear ones just changed 'cause they were out.

Thanks joopa

Brian R.
06-30-2005, 01:34 AM

Q: My 94 Camry check engine light has just come on recently. I've never seen it on until now and I don't know why. The car has 148k miles on it, what could be the problem? I have tried checking the code myself using the paperclip method that I found on this site, but could not get anything out of it. The light just stays on and does not blink once. How can I check the code? Is there a reset button or anything I can do? Any help is appreciated. TIA.

A: Your car maybe OBDII compliant which means you need a code reader. Check on the label attached to the underside of your hood. See if it says OBDII certified.


OBD Codes:
http://autorepair.about.com/od/obdcodedatabase/The_Exhaustive_Database_of_OBDI_and_OBDII_Engine_C odes.htm

Q: Can I purchase a reader at any autoshop? How much are they?

A: You need an adapter that is specific for Toyota. Most readers will work with the appropriate adapter. I have had trouble finding the right adapter at my local stores. I think online is the best place to buy one.

I think prices are $100 on up. One that monitors engine functions is particularly useful - feeds data into computer like notebook or hand-held pc.

If you live near an Autozone store, they will check it for free.

Q: I went to a Autozone store and they said that they could only do 96 and up. Is that true?

A: 1996 and later cars have to be OBDII compliant. Toyota made their 1994 and 1995 V6 Camrys OBDII compliant. If your car is, then point it out to him and they should check it. Check your emissions sticker under the hood. It will tell you if your car is OBDII compliant or not.

Brian R.
06-30-2005, 01:44 AM

Get DENSO (OEM) part numbers here (http://www.densoaftermarket.com/).

A primer on OBDII DTC codes:

See also:

Here are a list of generic and Toyota-specific DTC codes from http://www.iequus.com/assets/manuals/3100E.pdf

DTC Codes in BOLD have additional information or troubleshooting guide at the end of this post.

The above document also provided Manufacturer-specific DTC codes for Honda, General Motors, Ford, and Chrysler.

The following Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions lists represent the most complete information currently available. OBD II is an evolving system, and new codes and definitions will be added as the system matures. ALWAYS consult the vehicle’s service manual for code definitions not included in these lists.

The following code definition lists provide both Generic Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions and Manufacturer-Specific Diagnostic Trouble Code Definitions for the following vehicles:

• OBD II Powertrain “GENERIC” (P0XXX) Diagnostic Trouble Codes. OBD II Generic Diagnostic Trouble Codes and their definitions apply to all makes and models of import and domestic vehicles that are “OBD II COMPLIANT”.

• OBD II Powertrain “MANUFACTURER SPECIFIC” (P1XXX) Diagnostic Trouble Codes. OBD II Manufacturer-Specific Diagnostic Trouble Codes and their definitions apply only to vehicles produced by the specific manufacturer (Ford, GM, Toyota etc.).

P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0013 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
P0020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0023 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 2)
P0025 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0030 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0032 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0033 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit
P0034 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit Low
P0035 Turbo Charger Bypass Valve Control Circuit High
P0036 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0037 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0038 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0042 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0043 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0044 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0050 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0051 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0052 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0056 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0057 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0058 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0062 HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0063 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0064 HO2S Heater Control Circuit High (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0065 Air Assisted Injector Control Range/Performance
P0066 Air Assisted Injector Control Circuit or Circuit Low
P0067 Air Assisted Injector Control Circuit High
P0070 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0071 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Range/Performance
P0072 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0073 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0074 Ambient Air Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0075 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
P0076 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0077 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0078 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
P0079 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0080 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0081 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)
P0082 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0083 Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 2)
P0084 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)
P0085 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0086 Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit High (Bank 2)

P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Circuit Intermittent
P0105 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Malfunction
P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input
P0109 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Intermittent
P0110 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0111 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0112 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input
P0114 Intake Air Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction
P0116 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0118 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit High Input
P0119 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Intermittent
P0120 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0121 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Low Input
P0123 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input
P0124 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit Intermittent
P0125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0126 Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Stable Operation
P0127 Intake Air Temperature Too High
P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
P0130 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0131 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0132 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0133 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0137 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0138 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0139 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0143 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0144 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0145 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0147 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0148 Fuel Delivery Error
P0149 Fuel Timing Error
P0150 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0151 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0152 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0154 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0155 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0156 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0157 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0159 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0160 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0161 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0162 O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0163 O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0164 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0165 O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0166 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0167 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0168 Fuel Temperature Too High
P0169 Incorrect Fuel Composition
P0170 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0173 Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2)
P0176 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0177 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0178 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0179 Fuel Composition Sensor Circuit High Input
P0180 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0181 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0184 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0185 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0186 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0187 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0188 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0189 Fuel Temperature Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0191 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0192 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0194 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0195 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction
P0196 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Range/Performance
P0197 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Low
P0198 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High
P0199 Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Intermittent

P0200 Injector Circuit Malfunction
P0201 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 1
P0202 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 2
P0203 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 3
P0204 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 4
P0205 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 5
P0206 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 6
P0207 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 7
P0208 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 8
P0209 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 9
P0210 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 10
P0211 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 11
P0212 Injector Circuit Malfunction - Cylinder 12
P0213 Cold Start Injector 1 Malfunction
P0214 Cold Start Injector 2 Malfunction
P0215 Engine Shutoff Solenoid Malfunction
P0216 Injection Timing Control Circuit Malfunction
P0217 Engine Overtemp Condition
P0218 Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0219 Engine Overspeed Condition
P0220 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0221 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0222 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit High Input
P0224 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B Circuit Intermittent
P0225 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Malfunction
P0226 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0227 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Low Input
P0228 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit High Input
P0229 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch C Circuit Intermittent
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
P0231 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low
P0232 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit High
P0233 Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Intermittent
P0234 Engine Overboost Condition
P0235 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0236 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0237 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Low
P0238 Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High
P0239 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0240 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0241 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit Low
P0242 Turbocharger Boost Sensor B Circuit High
P0243 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Malfunction
P0244 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range/Performance
P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Low
P0246 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A High
P0247 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Malfunction
P0248 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Range/Performance
P0249 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B Low
P0250 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid B High
P0251 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Malfunction
P0252 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Range/Performance
P0253 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Low
P0254 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam High
P0255 Injection Pump A Rotor/Cam Intermitted
P0256 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Malfunction
P0257 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Range/Performance
P0258 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Low
P0259 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam High
P0260 Injection Pump B Rotor/Cam Intermitted
P0261 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Low
P0262 Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit High
P0263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0264 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low
P0265 Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit High
P0266 Cylinder 2 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0267 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
P0268 Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit High
P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0270 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
P0271 Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit High
P0272 Cylinder 4 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0273 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit Low
P0274 Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit High
P0275 Cylinder 5 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0276 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit Low
P0277 Cylinder 6 Injector Circuit High
P0278 Cylinder 6 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0279 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit Low
P0280 Cylinder 7 Injector Circuit High
P0281 Cylinder 7 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0282 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit Low
P0283 Cylinder 8 Injector Circuit High
P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0285 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit Low
P0286 Cylinder 9 Injector Circuit High
P0287 Cylinder 9 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0288 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit Low
P0289 Cylinder 10 Injector Circuit High
P0290 Cylinder 10 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0291 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit Low
P0292 Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit High
P0293 Cylinder 11 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0294 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit Low
P0295 Cylinder 12 Injector Circuit High
P0296 Cylinder 12 Contribution/Balance Fault
P0298 Engine Oil Over Temperature

P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0308 Cylinder 8 Misfire Detected
P0309 Cylinder 9 Misfire Detected
P0310 Cylinder 10 Misfire Detected
P0311 Cylinder 11 Misfire Detected
P0312 Cylinder 12 Misfire Detected
P0313 Misfire Detected with Low Fuel
P0314 Single Cylinder Misfire (Cylinder not specified)
P0320 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0321 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0322 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0323 Ignition/Distributor Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0324 Knock Control System Error
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Low Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0329 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)
P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2)
P0331 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0332 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0333 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0334 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction
P0336 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P0337 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Low Input
P0338 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit High Input
P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0343 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit High Input
P0344 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0345 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit (Bank 2)
P0346 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0347 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0348 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0349 Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)
P0350 Ignition Coil Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0351 Ignition Coil A Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0354 Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0355 Ignition Coil E Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0356 Ignition Coil F Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0357 Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0358 Ignition Coil H Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0359 Ignition Coil I Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0360 Ignition Coil J Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0361 Ignition Coil K Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0362 Ignition Coil L Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0365 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 1)
P0366 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0367 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Low Input (Bank 1)
P0368 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit High Input (Bank 1)
P0369 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Intermittent (Bank 1)
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Malfunction
P0371 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Many Pulses
P0372 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Too Few Pulses
P0373 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A Intermittent/ Erratic Pulses
P0374 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal A No Pulses
P0375 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Malfunction
P0376 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Many Pulses
P0377 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Too Few Pulses
P0378 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B Intermittent/ Erratic Pulses
P0379 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal B No Pulses
P0380 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit Malfunction
P0381 Glow Plug/Heater Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P0382 Glow Plug/Heater Circuit "B" Malfunction
P0385 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Malfunction
P0386 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Range/Performance
P0387 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Low Input
P0388 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit High Input
P0389 Crankshaft Position Sensor B Circuit Intermittent
P0390 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit (Bank 2)
P0391 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0392 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Low Input (Bank 2)
P0393 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit High Input (Bank 2)
P0394 Camshaft Position Sensor "B" Circuit Intermittent (Bank 2)

P0400 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected
P0402 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
P0404 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Range/Performance
P0405 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low
P0406 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit High
P0407 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit Low
P0408 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor B Circuit High
P0409 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "A" Circuit
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0411 Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected
P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction
P0413 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Open
P0414 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
P0415 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Malfunction
P0416 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Open
P0417 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve B Circuit Shorted
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0419 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "B" Circuit Malfunction
P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0421 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0422 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0423 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0424 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 1)
P0425 Catalyst Temperature Sensor (Bank 1)
P0426 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0427 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Low Input (Bank 1)
P0428 Catalyst Temperature Sensor High Input (Bank 1)
P0429 Catalyst Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1)
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0431 Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0432 Main Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0433 Heated Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0434 Heated Catalyst Temperature Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0435 Catalyst Temperature Sensor (Bank 2)
P0436 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0437 Catalyst Temperature Sensor Low Input (Bank 2)
P0438 Catalyst Temperature Sensor High Input (Bank 2)
P0439 Catalyst Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2)
P0440 Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
P0441 Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow
P0442 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (small leak)
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0444 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open
P0445 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0447 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open
P0448 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Shorted
P0449 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction
P0450 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0451 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0452 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0453 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor High Input
P0454 Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0455 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)
P0456 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak)
P0457 Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (fuel cap loose/off)
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0461 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0462 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input
P0464 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0466 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0467 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0468 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit High Input
P0469 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Malfunction
P0471 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Range/Performance
P0472 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Low
P0473 Exhaust Pressure Sensor High
P0474 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Intermittent
P0475 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Malfunction
P0476 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Range/Performance
P0477 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Low
P0478 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve High
P0479 Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Intermittent
P0480 Cooling Fan 1 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0481 Cooling Fan 2 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0482 Cooling Fan 3 Control Circuit Malfunction
P0483 Cooling Fan Rationality Check Malfunction
P0484 Cooling Fan Circuit Over Current
P0485 Cooling Fan Power/Ground Circuit Malfunction
P0486 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor "B" Circuit
P0487 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Position Control Circuit
P0488 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Throttle Position Control Range/Performance
P0491 Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 1)
P0492 Secondary Air Injection System (Bank 2)

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction
P0501 Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance
P0502 Vehicle Speed Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0503 Vehicle Speed Sensor Intermittent/Erratic/High
P0505 Idle Control System Malfunction
P0506 Idle Control System RPM Lower Than Expected
P0507 Idle Control System RPM Higher Than Expected
P0508 Idle Control System Circuit Low
P0509 Idle Control System Circuit High
P0510 Closed Throttle Position Switch Malfunction
P0512 Starter Request Circuit
P0513 Incorrect Immobilizer Key ("Immobilizer" pending SAE J1930 approval)
P0515 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit
P0516 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Low
P0517 Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit High
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0521 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch Range/Performance
P0522 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch Low Voltage
P0523 Engine Oil Pressure/Switch High Voltage
P0524 Engine Oil Pressure Too Low
P0530 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0531 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0532 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0533 A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0534 Air Conditioner Refrigerant Charge Loss
P0540 Intake Air Heater Circuit
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0542 Intake Air Heater Circuit High
P0544 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 1)
P0545 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0546 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0547 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit (Bank 2)
P0548 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0549 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High (Bank 2)
P0550 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0551 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0552 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0553 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P0554 Power Steering Pressure Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0560 System Voltage Malfunction
P0561 System Voltage Unstable
P0562 System Voltage Low
P0563 System Voltage High
P0564 Cruise Control Multi-Function Input Signal
P0565 Cruise Control On Signal Malfunction
P0566 Cruise Control Off Signal Malfunction
P0567 Cruise Control Resume Signal Malfunction
P0568 Cruise Control Set Signal Malfunction
P0569 Cruise Control Coast Signal Malfunction
P0570 Cruise Control Accel Signal Malfunction
P0571 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Malfunction
P0572 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit Low
P0573 Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit High
P0574 Cruise Control System - Vehicle Speed Too High
P0575 Cruise Control Input Circuit
P0576 Cruise Control Input Circuit Low
P0577 Cruise Control Input Circuit High
P0578-P0580 Reserved for Cruise Control Codes

P0600 Serial Communication Link Malfunction
P0601 Internal Control Module Memory Check Sum Error
P0602 Control Module Programming Error
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P0604 Internal Control Module Random Access Memory (RAM) Error
P0605 Internal Control Module Read Only Memory (ROM) Error
P0606 PCM Processor Fault
P0607 Control Module Performance
P0608 Control Module VSS Output "A" Malfunction
P0609 Control Module VSS Output "B" Malfunction
P0610 Control Module Vehicle Options Error
P0615 Starter Relay Circuit
P0616 Starter Relay Circuit Low
P0617 Starter Relay Circuit High
P0618 Alternative Fuel Control Module KAM Error
P0619 Alternative Fuel Control Module RAM/ROM Error
P0620 Generator Control Circuit Malfunction
P0621 Generator Lamp "L" Control Circuit Malfunction
P0622 Generator Field "F" Control Circuit Malfunction
P0623 Generator Lamp Control Circuit
P0624 Fuel Cap Lamp Control Circuit
P0630 VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch - ECM/PCM
P0631 VIN Not Programmed or Mismatch - TCM
P0635 Power Steering Control Circuit
P0636 Power Steering Control Circuit Low
P0637 Power Steering Control Circuit High
P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance (Bank 1)
P0639 Throttle Actuator Control Range/Performance (Bank 2)
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
P0645 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P0646 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit Low
P0647 A/C Clutch Relay Control Circuit High
P0648 Immobilizer Lamp Control Circuit ("Immobilizer" pending SAE J1930 approval)
P0649 Speed Control Lamp Control Circuit
P0650 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Control Circuit Malfunction
P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
P0655 Engine Hot Lamp Output Control Circuit Malfunction
P0656 Fuel Level Output Circuit Malfunction
P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 1)
P0661 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 1)
P0662 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit High (Bank 1)
P0663 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit (Bank 2)
P0664 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)
P0665 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve Control Circuit High (Bank 2)

P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0701 Transmission Control System Range/Performance
P0702 Transmission Control System Electrical
P0703 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0704 Clutch Switch Input Circuit Malfunction
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (PRNDL Input)
P0706 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0707 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
P0709 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0710 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0711 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0712 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Input
P0713 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input
P0714 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0716 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0717 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0718 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0719 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Low
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0721 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0722 Output Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0723 Output Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0724 Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit High
P0725 Engine Speed Input Circuit Malfunction
P0726 Engine Speed Input Circuit Range/Performance
P0727 Engine Speed Input Circuit No Signal
P0728 Engine Speed Input Circuit Intermittent
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio
P0731 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio
P0734 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio
P0735 Gear 5 Incorrect Ratio
P0736 Reverse Incorrect Ratio
P0737 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit
P0738 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit Low
P0739 TCM Engine Speed Output Circuit High
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off
P0742 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical
P0744 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent
P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
P0746 Pressure Control Solenoid Performance or Stuck Off
P0747 Pressure Control Solenoid Stuck On
P0748 Pressure Control Solenoid Electrical
P0749 Pressure Control Solenoid Intermittent
P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction
P0751 Shift Solenoid A Performance or Stuck Off
P0752 Shift Solenoid A Stuck On
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0754 Shift Solenoid A Intermittent
P0755 Shift Solenoid B Malfunction
P0756 Shift Solenoid B Performance or Stuck Off
P0757 Shift Solenoid B Stuck On
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0759 Shift Solenoid B Intermittent
P0760 Shift Solenoid C Malfunction
P0761 Shift Solenoid C Performance or Stuck Off
P0762 Shift Solenoid C Stuck On
P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical
P0764 Shift Solenoid C Intermittent
P0765 Shift Solenoid D Malfunction
P0766 Shift Solenoid D Performance or Stuck Off
P0767 Shift Solenoid D Stuck On
P0768 Shift Solenoid D Electrical
P0769 Shift Solenoid D Intermittent
P0770 Shift Solenoid E Malfunction
P0771 Shift Solenoid E Performance or Stuck Off
P0772 Shift Solenoid E Stuck On
P0773 Shift Solenoid E Electrical
P0774 Shift Solenoid E Intermittent
P0775 Pressure Control Solenoid "B"
P0776 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Performance or Stuck Off
P0777 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Stuck On
P0778 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Electrical
P0779 Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Intermittent
P0780 Shift Malfunction
P0781 1-2 Shift Malfunction
P0782 2-3 Shift Malfunction
P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
P0784 4-5 Shift Malfunction
P0785 Shift/Timing Solenoid Malfunction
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance
P0787 Shift/Timing Solenoid Low
P0788 Shift/Timing Solenoid High
P0789 Shift/Timing Solenoid Intermittent
P0790 Normal/Performance Switch Circuit Malfunction
P0791 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit
P0792 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0793 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0794 Intermediate Shaft Speed Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0795 Pressure Control Solenoid "C"
P0796 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Performance or Stuck Off
P0797 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Stuck On
P0798 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Electrical
P0799 Pressure Control Solenoid "C" Intermittent

P0801 Reverse Inhibit Control Circuit Malfunction
P0803 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Solenoid Control Circuit Malfunction
P0804 1-4 Upshift (Skip Shift) Lamp Control Circuit Malfunction
P0805 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit
P0806 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P0807 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Low
P0808 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit High
P0809 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent
P0810 Clutch Position Control Error
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
P0812 Reverse Input Circuit
P0813 Reverse Output Circuit
P0814 Transmission Range Display Circuit
P0815 Upshift Switch Circuit
P0816 Downshift Switch Circuit
P0817 Starter Disable Circuit
P0818 Driveline Disconnect Switch Input Circuit
P0820 Gear Lever X-Y Position Sensor Circuit
P0821 Gear Lever X Position Circuit
P0822 Gear Lever Y Position Circuit
P0823 Gear Lever X Position Circuit Intermittent
P0824 Gear Lever Y Position Circuit Intermittent
P0825 Gear Lever Push-Pull Switch (Shift Anticipate)
P0830 Clutch Pedal Switch "A" Circuit
P0831 Clutch Pedal Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0832 Clutch Pedal Switch "A" Circuit High
P0833 Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit
P0834 Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit Low
P0835 Clutch Pedal Switch "B" Circuit High
P0836 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit
P0837 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit Range/Performance
P0838 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit Low
P0839 Four Wheel Drive (4WD) Switch Circuit High
P0840 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit
P0841 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Range/Performance
P0842 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Low
P0843 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High
P0844 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit Intermittent
P0845 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit
P0846 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Range/Performance
P0847 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low
P0848 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit High
P0849 Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Intermittent

P1100 BARO Sensor Circuit malfunction
P1120 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1125 Throttle Control Motor Circuit Malfunction
P1126 Magnetic Clutch Circuit Malfunction
P1127 ETCS Actuator Power Source Circuit Malfunction
P1128 Throttle Control Motor Lock Malfunction
P1129 Electric Throttle Control System Malfunction
P1130 Air-Fuel Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P1133 Air-Fuel Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction
P1135 Air-Fuel Sensor Heater Circuit Response Malfunction
P1150 A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Malfunction
P1153 A./F Sensor Circuit Response Malfunction
P1155 A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction

P1200 Fuel Pump Relay Circuit Malfunction

P1300 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1
P1305 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 2 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1310 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 2 (Except 1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1310 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 3 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1315 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 4 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser, 2000 Celica & Tundra)
P1320 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 5 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1325 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 6 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1330 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 7 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1335 No CKP Sensor Signal Engine Running
P1340 Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 8 (1998-2000 Land Cruiser & 2000 Tundra)
P1346 VVT Sensor /Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem (Bank 1)
P1349 VVT System Malfunction
P1351 VVT Sensor /Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Problem (Bank 2)

P1400 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Malfunction
P1401 Sub-Throttle Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1405 Turbo Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1406 Turbo Pressure Sensor Range/Performance Problem
P1410 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P1411 EGR Valve Position Sensor Circuit Ranger/Performance

P1500 Starter Signal Circuit Malfunction
P1510 Boost Pressure Control Circuit Malfunction
P1511 Boost Pressure Low Malfunction
P1512 Boost Pressure High Malfunction
P1520 Stop Lamp Switch Signal Malfunction
P1565 Cruise Control Main Switch Circuit Malfunction

P1600 ECM BATT Malfunction
P1605 Knock Control CPU Malfunction
P1630 Traction Control System Malfunction
P1633 ECM Malfunction ECTS Circuit
P1645 Body ECU Malfunction
P1652 IACV Control Circuit Malfunction
P1656 OCV Circuit Malfunction
P1658 Waste Gate Valve Control Circuit Malfunction
P1661 EGR Circuit Malfunction
P1662 EGR By-Pass Valve Control Circuit Malfunction
P1690 OCV Circuit Malfunction
P1692 OCV Open Malfunction
P1693 OCV Closed Malfunction
P1780 PNP Switch Malfunction



P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0016 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A


Mass or volume sensor or circuit

Possible Problems
MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad. MAF sensor may be faulty.

Reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken /frayed wires.
Unplug and reconnect the MAF wiring harness
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor

Mass or volume Circuit Range/Performance Problem

Possible Problems
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. The PCM detects that the actual MAF sensor frequency signal is not within a predetermined range of the calculated MAF value for more than 4.0 seconds.

Reset the code and see if it comes back
Inspect for the following conditions:
An incorrectly routed harness--Inspect the harness of the MAF sensor in order to verify that it is not routed too close to the following components:
- The secondary ignition wires or coils
- Any solenoids
- Any relays
- Any motors
A low minimum air rate through the sensor bore may cause this DTC to set at idle or during deceleration. Inspect for any vacuum leaks downstream of the MAF sensor.
A wide open throttle (WOT) acceleration from a stop should cause the MAF sensor g/s display on the scan tool to increase rapidly. This increase should be from 6-12 g/s at idle to 230 g/s or more at the time of the 1-2 shift. If the increase is not observed, inspect for a restriction in the induction system or the exhaust system.
The barometric pressure (BARO) that is used in order to calculate the predicted MAF value is initially based on the MAP sensor at key ON.
When the engine is running the MAP sensor value is continually updated near WOT. A skewed MAP sensor will cause the calculated MAF value to be inaccurate. The value shown for the MAP sensor display varies with the altitude. With the ignition ON and the engine OFF, 103 kPa is the approximate value near sea level. This value will decrease by approximately 3 kPa for every 305 meters (1,000 feet) of altitude.
A high resistance on the ground circuit of the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.
Any loss of vacuum to the MAP sensor can cause this DTC to set.

Mass or volume Circuit Low Input
Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit. MAF circuit had lower than expected voltage (air flow).

Possible Problems
The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF may be dirty or otherwise contaminated (if you use an oiled air filter such as a K&N air filter, some of the oil may have made it's way onto the MAF sensor).
The MAF sensor may be faulty
The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)

reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor.

Mass or Volume Circuit High Input.

Possible Problems
Mass Air Flow High (MAF) sensor or circuit. MAF circuit had higher than expected voltage (air flow).

The MAF may be disconnected, or a wiring connection may be bad
The MAF sensor may be damaged
The vehicle computer may be faulty (very rare)
reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Take the MAF out and clean it using a spray cleaner such as brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Be gentle with the sensor.
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor.

Mass or Volume Circuit Intermittent

Possible Problems
Mass Air Flow High (MAF) sensor or circuit. MAF is producing incorrect air flow readings.

The mass air flow (MAF) circuit is incomplete (broken/frayed wire, etc.)
There is an air leak in the intake system

Reset the code and see if it comes back.
Verify that the Mass Air Flow Sensor wiring is connected properly and that there are no broken / frayed wires.
Inspect for any air leaks near the MAF sensor.
Check the voltage of the MAF sensor (refer to a repair manual for vehicle specific information)
Replace the MAF sensor.

The description of the expected voltages for the MAP sensor output (backprobing Terminal 2) in the Haynes manual is incorrect. The voltages listed are not the expected voltages, they are the voltage drops expected from the reference voltage.

With the MAP connector attached and the ignition on and the vacuum line disconnected, measure the reference voltage by backprobing terminals 2 and 1. Measure the voltages at these same connectors while applying different vacuums at the port. If your reference voltage without vacuum is 3 volts (for example), then you should see the following voltages at these vacuums:

3.94 in Hg 2.5-2.7 V [3.0 V (reference voltage) minus 0.5-0.3 V]
7.87 in Hg 2.1-2.3 V (3.0 minus 0.9-0.7 V)
11.81 in Hg 1.7-1.9 V (3.0 minus 1.3-1.1 V)
15.75 in Hg 1.3-1.5 V (3.0 minus 1.7-1.5 V)
19.69 in Hg 0.9-1.1 V (3.0 minus 2.1-1.9 V)

Although your MAP may not exactly match what is listed above, the trend should be the same. I don't think there is anything magical about these absolute numbers, it is having a smooth trend that is important. There is bound to be some variation.

Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit High Input

Possible Problems
Computer has detected that the TPS (throttle position sensor) is reporting too high a voltage.
Symptoms may include: Rough idle, High idle, Surging, or other symptoms may also be present

TPS not mounted securely
TPS circuit short to ground or another wire
Faulty TPS
Damaged computer (PCM)

If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If engine is stumbling or hesitating, carefully inspect all wiring and connectors that lead to the TPS. More than likely the problem is with the TPS wiring.
Check the voltage at the TPS (refer to a service manual for your vehicle for this specific information). If the voltage spikes or is too high (over 4.65 volts with key on, engine off), then that is indicative of a problem.
Carefully trace each wire from the TPS wiring harness to check for breaks, rubbing against other components, etc.

Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control

Possible Problems
After the engine is warmed up, oxygen sensor output does not indicated RICH even once when conditions warrant and continue for at least 1.5 min.
Conditions: Engine speed 1,500 rpm or more, and speed 25-62 mph and throttle valve not completely closed.

Open or short in HO2 sensor circuit or oxygen sensor


Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified amount of time after starting the engine.

Insufficient warm up time
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat
Faulty coolant temperature sensor

Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)
Low engine coolant level
Leaking or stuck open thermostat <= Most likely if coolant level is adequate.
Insufficient warm up time
Faulty engine coolant temperature sensor
Engine coolant temperature sensor harness is shorted or has an open circuit
Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit has a poor electrical connection

O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Possible Problems
Front oxygen sensor on the driver's side reading is too high.

The oxygen sensor heater circuit is shorted out
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed (less likely)

Replace Front driver's side front oxygen sensor. <= Most likely

Other possibilities
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the voltage of the oxygen sensor

O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Possible Problems
Front oxygen sensor on the driver's side voltage output is slower than 1 second rich to lean or lean to rich during idling after engine is warmed up (2 trip detection logic).

Bad HO2 sensor<= Most likely
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
See also P0125 above.

O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

Possible Problems
Rear oxygen sensor on the driver's side or the ECM does not adjust the air fuel ratio as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.

Faulty oxygen sensor
The wiring to the sensor is broken/frayed
There is an exhaust leak

Faulty HO2 Sensor 2 <= Most likely
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation

O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)

Possible Problems
Front oxygen sensor on the passenger's side voltage output is slower than 1 second rich to lean or lean to rich during idling after engine is warmed up (2 trip detection logic).

Bad HO2 sensor<= Most likely
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
See also P0125 above.

O2 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

Possible Problems
Rear oxygen sensor on the passenger side or the ECM is not adjusting the air fuel ratio as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.

Faulty oxygen sensor
Wiring to the sensor is broken/frayed
Exhaust leak

Replace rear passenger side oxygen sensor.
Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating/contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
See also P0125 above.

System too Lean (Bank 1)

Possible Problems
When the air fuel ratio feedback is stable after engine warming up, the fuel trim is considerably in error on the LEAN side (2 trip detection logic)

Air intake hose loose
Fuel line pressure low (may be from running out of gas)
Injector blockage
HO2 sensor malfuction
MAF meter or MAP sensor malfunction
Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction

Clean MAF meter with electronic circuit cleaner or replace<= most likely if in engine
Check MAP sensor if no MAF meter
Fix vacuum/intake leak downstream of MAF meter
Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
Replace fuel filter
Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail
Check output of HO2 sensor
Check injector performance
Check ECT sensor
Check PCV valve and hose fittings for tightness

System too Rich (Bank 1)

Possible Problems
When the air fuel ratio feedback is stable after engine warming up, the fuel trim is considerably in error on the RICH side (2 trip detection logic)

Fuel line pressure high
Injector leak
HO2 sensor malfuction
MAF meter malfunction
Engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction

Clean MAF meter with electronic circuit cleaner<= most likely
Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
Check fuel pressure at the fuel rail
Check output of HO2 sensor
Check injector performance
Check ECT sensor
Check for adequate spark and ignition

System too Lean (Bank 2)
See P0171 for Bank 1

System too Rich (Bank 2)
See P0172 for Bank 1

No knock sensor 1 signal to ECM with engine speed 2,000 rpm or more.

Possible Problems
Open or short in knock sensor 1 circuit <= Most likely problem. Check sensor connector for good connection and check wire for damage. Wire is easily damaged when head is removed or similar repair work has been accomplished. Sensor can be tested with ohmmeter. There should be no continuity between the sensor terminal and the sensor body. Replace if there is continuity.
Knock sensor 1 loosness - tighten sensor

No knock sensor 2 signal to ECM with engine speed 2,000 rpm or more.

Possible Problems
Open or short in knock sensor 2 circuit <= Most likely problem.Check sensor connector for good connection and check wire for damage. Wire is easily damaged when head is removed or similar repair work has been accomplished. Sensor can be tested with ohmmeter. There should be no continuity between the sensor terminal and the sensor body. Replace if there is continuity.
Knock sensor 2 loosness - tighten sensor

After the engine is warmed up, the intake manifold absolute pressure is larger than the value calculated by the ECM while the EGR system is ON (2 trip detection logic).

Possible Problems
EGR valve stuck closed <= Most common Clean EGR valve
EGR Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV)
Open or short in VSV circuit for EGR
EGR valve position sensor open or short circuit
Vacuum or EGR hose disconnected
EGR valve position sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor malfunction <=See P0105 above for testing MAP sensor

After the engine is warmed up, conditions (a) and (b) continue.

(a) The intake manifold absolute pressure is larger than the value calculated by the ECM while the EGR system is ON.

(b) Misfiring is detected during idling (2 trip detection logic).

Possible Problems
EGR valve stuck open <= Most common Clean EGR valve
Vacuum or EGR hose is connected to wrong post
Manifold absolute pressure sensor malfunction

P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
HO2 sensor after the catalytic converter is not responding normally.

1. Check for leaks in the exhaust system between the engine and the cat converter (loose connection, rusted area, or burned out seal)

2. HO2 or A/F ratio sensor before cat converter is bad (remove connector and measure resistance between terminals +B and HT - should be 0.8-1.4 ohms cold).

3. HO2 sensor after cat converter is bad (measure resistance as above - should be 11-16 ohms cold).

4. Cat converter is bad.

If you need to replace a sensor, bring your VIN to a Toyota dealer and get the correct part number for your engine. There is only one that works correctly, but at least two available. You don't have to buy the part from Toyota, but you have to have the correct part number.

The fuel tank pressure is atmospheric pressure after the vehicle is driven for 20 min (2 trip detection logic).

Possible Problems
Fuel tank cap incorrectly installed <= Most common
Fuel tank cap cracked or damaged (Toyota part only)
Bad vapor pressure sensor/circuit
Vacuum hose cracked, holed, blocked, damaged or disconnected
Hose or tube cracked, holed, damaged, or loose
Fuel tank/filler neck cracked, holed, or damaged
Charcoal canister cracked, holed, or damaged (collision)

In above description, check hoses between vapor pressure sensor and VSV for vapor pressure sensor and charcoal canister. Also, hose between charcoal canister and fuel tank.

TSB for 5S-FE
EG013-02 '98 and '99 Camry and Solara

"Under certain driving conditions, some 1998 - 1999 model year Camry and Solara vehicles may exhibit a M.I.L. "ON" with DTCs P0440, P0441 and P0446 stored due to an inoperative Vapor Pressure Sensor 3 way Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV). An improved Vapor Pressure Sensor VSV has been developed to correct this condition."

TSB for 5S-FE 1998
Repair Procedure
P0441 and/or P0446
A. Diagnostics for PO441:
1. Remove and replace Vacuum Hoses between EVAP VSV and Charcoal Canister.
2. If there is a metal vapor pipe between EVAP VSV and Charcoal Canister, clean inside of vaporpipe
3. Replace EVAP VSV and Charcoal Canister assembly with new parts.

B. Diagnostics for P0446:

1. Inspect vacuum hoses and pipes between EVAP (Purge) VSV and Charcoal Canister for leaks.
2. Replace Vapor Pressure VSV and Canister.
NOTE :When performing diagnostics for an occurrence of a MIL "ON" condition, Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0441 may be result of debris in Evaporative Emission Control System. This may cause blockage of a vapor line, or a stuck VSV, as described in troubleshooting area of Repair Manual.

Possible Problems
Open or short in VSV circuit for vapor pressure sensor
VSV for vapor pressure sensor
Open or short in vapor pressure sensor circuit
Vapor pressure sensor
Open or short in VSV circuit for EVAP
Vacuum hose cracks, hole, blocked, damaged or disconnected
Charcoal canister cracks, hole, or damaged

(P0446 is not normally associated with a loose or non-sealing gas cap. A loose or non-sealing gas cap triggers P0440 - see below diagrams)

1. Check the VSV connector for EVAP, VSV connector for vapor pressure sensor and vapor pressure sensor connector for looseness and disconnection

2. Check the vacuum hose between intake manifold and VSV for EVAP, VSV for EVAP and charcoal canister, charcoal canister and VSV for vapor pressure sensor, and VSV for vapor pressure sensor and vapor pressure sensor. Check these hoses for correct connection, looseness, cracks, holes, damage, and blockage.

3. Check voltage between terminals VC and E2 of ECM connector (4.5-5.5 V). (replace ECM if faulty)

4. Check voltages between terminals PTNK and E2 of ECM connector while applying vacuum to vapor pressure sensor (2.9-3.7 V).

If faulty, check for open and short in harness and connector between vapor pressure sensor and ECM. If ok at this point, replace vapor pressure sensor.

If voltage above is ok, Check VSV for EVAP. When ECM terminal EVP is grounded (ignition "ON"), Air should flow in pipe E (inboard on tube) on VSV and out F (outboard on tube) on VSV (Don't use high pressure air for this test). When EVP is not grounded, air does not flow in E and out F.

5. Check operation of VSV for EVAP. Remove VSV from engine. Check that there is continuity between the two terminals (30-34 ohms). If there is no continuity, replace VSV for EVAP.

Check that there is no continuity between either terminal and body. If there is continuity, replace VSV for EVAP.

Check that air does not flow from inner port (E) to outboard port (F).

Check that air flows from port E to F when you apply battery voltage across terminals. If no air flows, replace VSV for EVAP.

6. Check the vacuum hose between intake manifold and VSV for EVAP, and VSV for EVAP and charcoal canister. Check as above.

7. Check for open or short in harness and connector between EFI main-relay and VSV for EVAP and ECM. If faulty, repair or replace harness or connector. If ok, check and replace ECM.

8. Check VSV for vapor pressure sensor. When ECM terminal TPC is grounded (ignition "ON"), Air should flow in pipe E (inboard on tube) on VSV and out F (outboard on tube) on VSV. When TPC is not grounded, air flows out G (outside of connector).

If ok, check and replace charcoal canister.

If not functioning correctly, check function of VSV for vapor pressure sensor. Remove from engine.
Check that there is continuity between the terminals (33-39 ohms). Replace the VSV if there is no continuity.

Check that air flows from port E (inboard in tube) to port G (side of connector).

Check that air flows from port E to port F (outboard in tube) when battery voltage is applied across terminals. Replace VSV if function is incorrect.

9. If good, Check the vacuum hose between charcoal canister and VSV for vapor pressure sensor, and vapor pressure sensor and VSV for vapor pressure sensor - check as above.

11. Check for open and short in harness and connector between EFI main replay and VSV for vapor pressure sensor and ECM.

To clarify the scope of the P0440, P0441 and P0446 DTCs, here are reproductions of part of the Diagnostics section of a 2000 Toyota Repair Manual.

Note that the P0440 reflects uncharacteristic pressures in the components within the dotted line only. The same goes for the diagram of the components within the dotted line for the P0441 and P0446 DTCs.

Only the P0440 code will show a problem with pressure (or lack of pressure) within the fuel tank. The fuel tank cap is only cited as a potential source of the DTC in P0440, not in P0441/P0446.

Note that the potential problems are listed with the most probable culprit on the top of the list.



P0770 Shift Solenoid E Malfunction

Solenoid E (SL) is the torque converter lock-up solenoid. If the torque converter is a little slow locking up, it will set this code. May only be a one-time thing owing to a small particle of something getting jammed in the solenoid. The code may disappear by itself.

If it doesn't right away, check out the color of your tranny fluid. If it is pretty much red or brown and smells ok, then flush the tranny and see if that gets rid of the code. If not, pull out some fluid and add a bottle of Seafoam Trans Tune and run it for 1 or 2k miles. Then flush the transmission again. Check if the code is gone.

If this problem persists, I've been told you'll have to replace the E-solenoid.

There is a Service Bulleting (EG006-00) issued for '00 Siennas on this problem. They get a new torque converter to fix the problem permanently.

The following discussion was submitted by csaxon:

The ECM uses signals from throttle position sensor, airflow meter and crankshaft position sensor to monitor engagement of Torque Converter Clutch (TCC).

The ECM compares engagement condition of TCC with lock-up schedule in memory to detect MECHANICAL trouble of lock-up solenoid, valve body and torque converter. A P0700 trouble code is set when TCC lock-up does not occur during appropriate speed, or lock-up does not release at appropriate speed.

Possible causes are:
* Solenoid is stuck open or closed.
* Valve body clogged or valve stuck.
* TCC malfunction.

There are simple electrical tests to check the solenoid and plunger but the transmission pan must be removed to gain access.

As Brian suggests, if you haven't had your system flushed or changed in awhile it may help but I'm not sure that's cheaper than actually removing the pan and checking the solenoid.

The Toyota service tech can check the system without pan removal with his analyzer.

P1780 PNP Switch Malfunction

Easiest solution: It is common on Camrys to have problems with the loom of wires inside the trunk, attached to the driver's side trunk hinge. That loom is subjected to a lot of flexing, each time the trunk opens and closes. Eventually some of the wires inside that loom fray and break. Open that loom of wires and look for frayed or broken wires. Repair what you find. For pics see here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=6380622&postcount=13).
Thanks to Mike Gerber

For further diagnosis:

Brian R.
06-30-2005, 04:16 PM

Thanks Erndog1396

Q: I have a torn CV boot. What is the best way to fix it?

A: Buy a remanufactured axle. Remove the large CV boot clamp just to the outside of the innermost bearing. Pull the inner joint apart, and when you get the new axle, do the same thing, and install the new half shaft and replace the clamp. This is the easiest way to do it, and you will still replace all the wearable parts of the axle.

ASM used the following alternative method: "...The secret is to use a vary long brass punch, 24". Hold it against the raceway bearing and use a sludge hammer to hammer it out.

This will require 2 people, as one must hold the punch and the other one work the hammer. What I also did was use A LOT of WD-40 (penetrating oil is better - Brian), and let it soak over night.

When work the hammer, hit it hard, don't be shy. As most of replacement CV shaft came with new raceway bearing anyway."

It is cheaper and less time consuming to replace the entire half-shaft with a rebuilt one than to dissassemble the half-shaft and CV joint, rebuild the contaminated CV joint, and then reassemble and install the half-shaft.


Toyota-recommended procedures for removing and replacing the 1MZ-FE and 5S-FE half-shafts.



For additional issues see the following threads:

Toyota's procedure for rebuilding the 5S-FE half-shafts.


Brian R.
07-01-2005, 10:10 AM

Q: Where is my PCV valve? I have a 1997 LE V6 Camry and I have no clue.

A: Try Autozone Repair Information - click on "Component Location":



Q: What maintenance should I do on my Camry? I am not an accomplished mechanic, but I have tools and can do simple stuff, given some instructions. Any hints and general information for guys like me?

A: Here are instructions for recommended maintenance on a 3rd gen Camry. Other generation Camrys may differ slightly, but the concepts and techniques are the same and the specific requirements are very close to general information for all Toyotas.

1MZ-FE 3.0L V6

5S-FE 2.2L I4


What Brand of Air Filter Performs Best?
Here is a study of a number of brands of air filters:

Power Steering Fluid Change
Here is a procedure from toyotanation with pics:

Spark Plug Change

Use only Toyota-recommended spark plugs.

Since the heads on both the above engines are aluminum, you must coat the spark plug threads with a small amount of anti-seize compound before you install them.

Start threading the spark plugs by using a rubber hose pushed over the insulator of the spark plug so that you don't accidentally damage the threads in the head. If one doesn't go in easily, back it out and try again. Don't force them. Cross-threading the spark plug holes will eventually cost you money.

Oil Weight Recommendation
Use 5W-30 oil under all conditions unless you live in Arizona, Southern Texas, Fargo, etc. There is a significant benefit to getting the oil flowing immediately after start-up.

Replacing Engine Coolant.
Make sure you get all the air out of the system before you cap the radiator. Run the engine at idle with the radiator cap off and add coolant as necessary to keep the radiator full of coolant. Once the engine reaches operating temperature and the coolant begins to overflow, replace the radiator cap and fill the coolant reservoir to the hot line. Check the coolant level in the reservoir after the next time you drive it and it has had a chance to cool down.

Valve Clearance Adjustment
In general, you don't have to adjust the valve clearances in these engines unless you have modified the valve train in some way. Leave well-enough alone unless you have a specific need.

Drive Shaft Boots Preventive Maintenance
Spray them with silicone lubricant (WD-40 has also been recommended to me) every time you are under the car for an oil change. This will prevent them from drying out and they will last forever. Cracked and leaking boots are common after 6-8 years without some treatment and replacing the half-shafts because of this is expensive.

Replacing Transmission Fluid
It is preferable to flush the transmission and replace all the fluid this way, rather than just draining the small amount of fluid in the pan. The vast majority of the transmission fluid is trapped in the torque converter and the valve body and is not changed by draining the pan only. I have been told that it is unnecessary to change the filter in the transmission. It is wire mesh and only meant to keep chunks of stuff out of the valve body.

If your serious about transmission maintenance, try this link for parts and transmission repair manuals:


General Maintenance
Always use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners to the recommended torque value. A pair of torque wrenches (one large and one small) are indespensible for auto maintenance, particularly when you have an aluminum engine/head. Two torque wrenches I recommend (or their equivalent) are:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1796327765.1120232008@ @@@&BV_EngineID=ccciaddfdegmkefcegecegjdghldghg.0&pid=00944595000&vertical=TOOL

These are micrometer-style torque wrenches. You dial in the required torque and then the wrench clicks strongly when you exert the force necessary to tighten the bolt. To keep their accuracy, store them with the torque setting on a very low value. You can pay alot more for better wrenches, but these are more than adequate. Evenness of torque around a bolt pattern is more important that the actual torque value of the pattern.

Don't extend the lever arm of a torque wrench with a crow's foot or other device. If you make the socket end of the torque wrench longer, you increase the torque applied to the bolt. If you have to use a lengthening adapter, use it at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench shaft.

Also, always make sure you are tightening a bolt or nut with lubricated threads (oil for steel hole, antiseize compound for aluminum hole). Bolts always have to go into clean holes. Run a flat-bottom tap into all holes that won't accept a bolt hand-tight to the bottom. Follow tightening sequences when provided - tighten gradually in three steps 1/3, 2/3, then recommended torque over entire bolt pattern.

Tighten bolts in a bolt pattern only loosely until all the bolts have been inserted and are threaded into the holes. If you tighten some down prematurely, it will be very difficult or impossible to insert all the bolts and you will have to loosen the tight bolts anyway.

Brian R.
07-01-2005, 02:45 PM

Q: How do I replace the brake pads in my '94 Camry?

A: See the comments in an earlier post in this thread. Here are the definitive instructions from the maintenance and repair manual:

Check, Adjustment, Bleeding

Front Brake (Single Piston Type)

Front Brake (2-Piston Type)

Rear Brake (Drum)

Rear Brake (Disc)

Rear Brake (Parking Brake for Disc)

Brian R.
07-01-2005, 09:43 PM

Q: My trunk keeps hitting my antenna since it won't go down the way it should. Is there a cheap fix for this?

A: Some guys install a Honda S2000 antenna in place of the stock one.

See this article:


Q: My headlight covers are so hazy, I had to buy HID lights just so I would have enough light to drive buy. What can I do to polish them?

A: See the solutions posted in this thread:


Brian R.
07-01-2005, 10:52 PM

Q: I have been dealing with this weird noise for some time. I can hear the noise sounds like two pieces of heavy metal hitting each other. It sounds from the right rear area. It happens more often when speed is low say 30 mph on rough road. On highway, it does not happen as often. Anyone know what it can be?

A: First thing to check is your sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings. What causes the bushings to wear is when water and salt (or just water) gets into the bushing, it corrodes the surface of the sway bar and the surface becomes rough. This wears away the bushing. To get a long-term fix, you should polish the sway bar with a strip of emory cloth where the bushing rubs and then replace the bushing with a new one. Then the sway bar is smooth and the fix will last longer.

If there is nothing loose (including the spare tire and jack) in the trunk, then the sway bar bushings are the first thing to check/replace. They are cheap to buy from Toyota ($10/pair) and easy to replace - 30 min at most. When I have bought bushings from Toyota, they even gave me a strip of emory cloth to polish the bar with.

Here's a thread on the subject:

Here are the components:



Brian R.
07-02-2005, 01:56 PM

Q: My car starts good, runs ok going down the highway, but at a light it runs like poo-poo and wants to cut out. Any suggestions?

A: I'll bet your EGR valve is clogged. To check: Get a common hammer, locate the EGR, make it run bad, rap the EGR with the hammer (don't break it). You should be able to get the valve to unstick and it will idle like magic! Clean out the EGR with a coat hanger and carb cleaner or replace.


Brian R.
07-02-2005, 11:27 PM

Q: Does anyone know where the fuel filter is located on a 4 cyl 95 Camry? Is it easy to change? Thanks!

A: It is bolted to the wheel well behind the air filter housing. It is easy to change if you have small hands.

Before you disconnect any fuel lines, go under the rear seat - access the top of the gas tank, and disconnect the fuel pump electrical connection. Start the engine and let it idle until it dies, then shut off the ignition switch. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Then follow the diagram below.

The fuel filter is removed physically by unbolting from the fender.

Use a tubing wrench (or crows foot) instead of either an open-end wrench or adjustable jaw wrench to remove tubing connections. Use penetrating oil on the fitting first to help remove it. They are soft metal and easily rounded off if you are not careful. Instead of a crows foot, a box-end wrench with a slot cut out of one end will work in a pinch.

Be careful not to twist the tubing when tightening or loosening a tubing fitting.


Brian R.
07-10-2005, 08:10 PM

Q: My brake and charge lights come on at the same time when the engine is running. What does that mean?

A: If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/alternator_brushes/ http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/88/alternatorbrushes.htm

For decoding the dashboard lights:


Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN
Honda # 31105-PZ1-003
Metro # 39-82003 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks, box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra

Thanks to SydneyCanada for the above information

Brian R.
07-12-2005, 11:47 PM

Q: Where can I find information on how to install a new stereo in my Camry?

A: The Install Doctor is a good source:

also see:



Brian R.
07-13-2005, 12:10 AM

Q: Where can I find technical information on my EGR system? I want to modify it and I'd better understand what's going on there first. :)

A: A good source of technical articles and automotive information links is Kevin Sullivan's Autoshop 101 site:


Here are the titles of his technical articles followed by direct links to the articles:

Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Electrical
Electrical Fundamentals with questions.pdf

Electrical Circuits with questions.pdf

Electrical Components with questions.pdf

Analog vs Digital Meters with questions.pdf

Wire, Terminal and Connector Repair w/qu.pdf

Automotive Batteries with questions.pdf

Toyota Starting Systems with questions.pdf

Toyota Charging Systems with questions.pdf

Understanding Toyota Wiring Diagram.pdf

Electrical Diagnostic Tools.pdf

Diagnosing Body Electrical Problems.pdf

Semiconductors with questions.pdf

Transistors with questions.pdf

Computers / Logic Gates with questions.pdf

Overview of Sensors & Actuators w/quest.pdf

Electronic Transmission #1 - Operation.pdf

Electronic Transmission #2 - Diagnosis w/quest.pdf

Shift Interlock System.pdf

Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBDI (pre-1996 5S-FE/3S-FE and pre-1994 V6)
EFI#1 EFI System Overview.pdf

EFI#2 Air Induction System.pdf

EFI#3 Fuel Delivery & Injection Controls.pdf

EFI#4 Ignition System.pdf

Engine Controls #1 - Input Sensors.pdf

Engine Controls #2 - ECU/Outputs.pdf

Engine Controls #3 - Idle Speed Control.pdf

Engine Controls #4 - Diagnosis.pdf

Technical Articles
Toyota Series - Engine Performance OBD-II (1996 and newer 5S-FE, and '94 and newer 1MZ-FE)

Sensors#1 - Mode Sensors and Switches.pdf

Sensors#2 - Thermistors with questions.pdf

Sensors#3 - Position Sensors with questions.pdf

Sensors#4 - Air Flow Sensors with questions.pdf

Sensors#5 - Pressure Sensors with questions.pdf

Sensors#6 - Speed Sensors with questions.pdf

Sensors#6 - Oxygen / Air Fuel Sensors w/ques.pdf

Sensors#8 - Knock Sensors with questions.pdf

Ignition#1 - Ignition Overview w/questions.pdf

Ignition#2 - Electronic Spark Advance w/quest.pdf

Ignition#3 - Distributor / Distributorless w/qu.pdf

Fuel System#1 - Overview with questions.pdf

Fuel System#2 - Injection Duration w/ques.pdf

Fuel System#3 - Closed Loop /Fuel Trim w/qu.pdf

OBDII#1 - Overview of On-Board Diagnostics.pdf

OBDII#2 - Serial Data.pdf

OBDII#3 - Data Interpretation.pdf

Emission#1 - Chemistry of Combustion.pdf

Emission#2 - Emission Analysis.pdf

Emission#3 - Engine Sub Systems.pdf

Emission#4 - Closed Loop Feedback Systems.pdf

Emission#5 - Electronic Spark Advance.pdf

Emission#6 - Idle Speed Control Systems.pdf

Emission#7 - Exhause Gas Recirculation.pdf

Emission#8 - Evaporative Emission Control.pdf

Emission#9 - Positive Crankcase Ventilation.pdf

Emission#10 - Catalytic Converter.pdf

Emission#11 - Secondary Air.pdf

Don't ignore the information and links in the "Automotive Links" section. Also, the "Online Bookstore" is useful if you want to get ASE certified.

Brian R.
07-14-2005, 02:51 PM
Thanks to Toysrme for the following discussion:


Cranking = turning over. Because this is the won't RUN guide, we assume the car cranks fine. Even so, the battery wires should be taken off and cleaned, even if they look OK.

When the car cranks fine, but won't run, here's what you need to know!
To run, an engine needs spark, fuel, compression, and they all have to happen at the right time! It's really that simple...


Let's start at the beginning.

If you have any idling problem, you start with cleaning the Idle Air Control AKA Idle Speed Control (IAC, ISC - same thing) valve is clogged with carbon from the EGR system. If it's not clogged now, it will be in the future, and you just staved it off. It's not a question of if yours will clog. It's simply a question of when it clogs.

Remove the valve, and clean it by hand. 3s-fe's, 5s-fe's, and 1mz-fe's, it's located on the underside of the throttle body, and is held on by four phillips screws. On 2vz-fe, and 3vz-fe's, it's on the firewall side of the throttle body, held on by two 12mm bolts.

3s-fe, 5s-fe, 1mz-fe:

2vz-fe 3vz-fe:

Next, check for vacuum leaks. Unplugged vacuum hoses, and especially cracks on the rubber hose that runs from the throttle body, to the air box.

Yes... 75% of idle problems are that easy. If it's not the Idle valve, clogged with carbon, it's probably a vacuum leak.

Another possible fix for IAC-Related Idling Problems:

Thanks to Daniel M. Dreyfus for the following discussion.

Here's my take on this - also 1994 4 cylinder Camry. Your car feels like it is running on three cylinders at cold start up because the IAC (idle air control valve) is sticking and not enough fuel gets into the cylinders for smooth cold start up idle speed.

If you remove the hose clamp at the throttle body opening and pull aside the large black air intake hose - at the bottom of the throttle body is a small rectangular hole - the air inlet for the IAC valve.
The best cure I've found for a sticking valve is TriFlow. It is a lubricant with teflon sold at bicycle and hardward stores. Just spray a small amount into the IAC air intake with the engine cold and stumbling at idle.

After I removed the throttle body, replaced the IAC valve with new, and performed all the adjustments and calibrations for the TB according to the factory service manual, this annoying sympton of cold start stumble returned but the TriFlow seems to have cured it.

My best guess is that the cylinder disk that covers and reveals the air port inside the IAC valve has no lubrication and the bimetallic thermostatic coil on the other end of the shaft running through the valve sometimes doesn't develop enough pressure to fully open the valve when cold.


Check for spark. Pull a single spark plug out, grounding it well to the frame. Turning the engine over, you should have a strong white spark. Old plugs, or weak spark will be a blue color. That does not directly spell a problem. As long as it is a strong spark, with some white in the blue color, the plug is fine.

If you have a 3s-fe, 2vz-fe, or 3vz-fe you have a distributor! Mark the distributor cap so you know it's orientation with paint, or a sharpie. They typically are held on by three screws, or three 10mm bolts. Check the distributor cap for small cracks - they *WILL* let moisture in. Check all of the contact points for corrosion. Check the rotor for corrosion. If any corrosion is present, you can take a small bit of emory paper (or very fine sand paper) and knock it off. If there is any suspect in the rotor, and cap, or you had to work them to get the car running - replace them. They're not $15 parts, and will go bad at some point.

While the cap is off, note the orientation of the rotor and crank the engine. If the rotor moves, your timing belt is in-tact.

5s-fe's use a distributorless ignition.
1mz-fe's use coil on wire.

Ignition timing is universally 10*btdc in all modern, wide-scale Toyota production engines. It is only adjustable on distributor equipped vehicles. If ignition timing is off for no reason on a distributor equipped engine, this can be indicative of a slipped timing belt.

Spark plug wires are NOT a typical wear item. If the car is kept inside, they regularly last 250,000 miles + before deteriorating. Simply said, if they are not grounding out, and the contacts are not damaged, they do NOT need to be replaced. Replacement wires ARE inferior... Spark plugs wires are also expensive! Ranging $90-$110usd for the v6 OEM replacement wires. Other than OEM wires, only use quality replacement wires, like Vitek, or extremely expensive ($250usd) Magnecor wires. No Auto store replacement wires!

Spark plugs are important. DO NOT use split electrode type plugs, or American brands in general. The resistance is far different that what the Nippon-Denso ignition system is designed to work on. Simply put... You will have a problem with putting Bosch plugs in most Toyota's. Normally in a short amount of time. Only use Denso, or NGK plugs.

NGK makes good generic plugs, that are very cheap (Typically on "permanent sale" in most areas for around $1-$2usd a plug). They are the OEM replacement plugs at most dealers (Surprisingly not Denso), they are not platinum, and last much longer than the 60,000 mile replacement interval. Making platinum plugs a complete waste of money.

Iridium plugs are nice, with 80,000 up to 120,000 mile life spans! Unfortunately, you would never want them in a Toyota factory engine that long. Carbon build-up will make you clean spark plugs around 60,000 miles. Which makes you ask the question... Why pay $11-$15usd a plug, for something you have to take out and clean, when you can pay $1-$2 a plug, and simply replace it.

If you have no spark at all. Check the 15amp EFI fuse (fuse box nearest battery). Check the 7.5 amp ignition fuse (same box). If still no ignition, Bridge E1 & TE1 in the Diagnostic's port (3s-fe, 2vz-fe, and 3vz-fe) and make sure the Check engine light is flashing a stead on & off. If it is the computer is fine. The ignitor, coil/coil packs, and distributor can all be tested with a multi-meter, but go beyond this post. Ask for specific directions.


Check for fuel getting to the injectors / fuel rail! Fuel pressure at idle is normally only 30-35psig. If you are using a pressure gauge don't be shocked if you don't get at least 40psig.

Testing for fuel is laughably easy. Start by taking the gas cap off, and putting it back on. That will de-pressurize the fuel system.

If you have a cold-start injector (2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) Slowly unbolt the 12mm banjo bolt. If fuel starts draining out, you have no fuel problem.
Otherwise, pull the rubber fuel hose off the fuel rail. Gas will pour out. If gas pours out, don't test the fuel pump, don't change the fuel filter, don't check the injectors. Check for compression, or re-check ignition.

Forget the fuel filter... Like plug wires, they are NOT typical wear items in modern Japanese designed cars. They may claim 15,000-30,000 mile lives, you may hear it has a 15,000-30,000 mile. Barring the owner is a complete moron, and you pours dirt and debris in your gas. The simply fact is they all actually *need* to be replaced on a 100,000-150,000 mile cycle.

Fuel pumps are easy to check. When you supply them voltage, they turn on.

For Air-flow Meter cars (3s-fe, 2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) The fuel pump will NOT turn on when you turn the ignition key is on. (except after an ECU reset) There is a switch in the air-flow meter that trips when the vane flap is sucked open (engine cranking). If you take your airbox apart and turn the iganition to ON, you can reach in and push the vane-flap open. Not only can you hear the fuel pump turn on. But you can hear, and feel the fuel injectors working.

5s-fe, and 1mz-fe's must apply battery voltage directly to the pump to check them.


Next check compression with a compression tester. On All modern, wide-scale Toyota production engines. Minimum compression is 142psig, maximum compression is 180psig. You want even compression across all cylinders.

If there is compression problems across all cylinders, check the timing belt, and cam orientation. The belt may have slipped, or snapped. (or the cams installed incorrectly after a re-build) Otherwise, there could be a blown head gasket (Common on Toyota v6's from the late 80's through the late 90's), or bad rings.

If compression tests OK, re-check ignition components, and check all the more in-depth parts skipped, or not tested.


Q: My 4 cyl 94 Camry died and won't start. I unhooked the plug wires and no spark when cranking. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot my ignition?

A: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=217128

Brian R.
07-22-2005, 09:20 AM

OBDI Procedures and Diagnostics:




Download and see page EG1-300



If your car is a '96 or newer, you need an OBDII code reader. If your car is '94-'96, then you have to check under your hood on the emissions sticker to tell if it is OBDII or OBDI. If your car is '93 or older, then it is OBDI.

For OBDII codes, check:


1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
2 O2B - Oxygen sensor #2
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
4 CKP - crank position sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
9 CYP - cylinder sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
12 EGR - exhaust gas recirculation lift valve
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
15 Ignition output signal
16 Fuel injectors
17 VSS - speed sensor
19 Automatic transmission lockup control valve
20 Electrical load detector
21 VTEC spool solenoid valve
22 VTEC pressure valve
23 Knock sensor
30 Automatic transmission A signal
31 Automatic transmission B signal
36 traction control found on JDM ecu's
41 Primary oxygen sensor heater
43 Fuel supply system
45 Fuel system too rich or lean
48 LAF - lean air fuel sensor
54 CKF - crank fluctuation sensor
58 TDC sensor #2
61 Primary oxygen sensor
63 Secondary oxygen sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater
67 Catalyst low efficiency. (same as P0420)
71 random misfire cylinder 1
72 random misfire cylinder 2
73 random misfire cylinder 3
74 random misfire cylinder 4
80 Exhaust Gas Recirculation insufficient flow detected
86 ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature) circuit range / performance problem
90 Evaporative Emission Control System leak detected in the fuel tank area
91 Evaporative Emission Control System insufficient purge flow

Brian R.
08-06-2005, 12:48 PM

Thanks again to Toysrme for the following discussion:

Q: What can I do to get more performance from my '89 Camry V6 with an automatic transmission?

A: The engine has *the* funkiest factory Y-pipe of all time. If you throw out cruise control, and move the battery to the back, it would be the easiest Toyota v6 to turbocharge, simply by tapping the funky y-pipe.

The y-pipe sucks tho... It needs to be replaced if you're not putting a turbo on it. It's going to be expensive... Exhaust/performance shops are going to pee their pants when they see the work they're going to have to do!

The 2vz-fe is also the only Toyota v6 with really, really restrictive headers. So it has a little more to gain with a set of headers. Check Australia, they're more Toyota parts to be had down there. I know someplace down there use to make 2vz-fe headers.

All Toyota ECU's run overly rich. You can install a piggyback to lean out the mid-upper rpm range. Always 10 horsepower to be found somewhere in there.

If you get a Y-pipe made, and you have no emissions testing, get rid of the Cat convertor. Another easy 5-10hp to gain from loosing that restrictive hunk of metal.

You can get the heads ported & polished. That can be fairly big money, and loose the car for a week, but nothing else N/A will give you as big a gain.
Any cam trick is going to cost out the wazoo. Forget it.

Avoid any intake modification. It's a waste of money. Simply put... You don't have 3hp to gain with a perfect intake, or 3hp to loose with a bad one. The stock intake is all ready CAI, if you want it louder, remove the resonator.

A Cat-back exhaust also has no power to give you. The factory system isn't very restrictive.

n2o is always a cheap way to add power. A 75 wet shot oughta be nice. If you're running over a 75 wet shot, you need a bigger fuel pump, and injectors / extra injectors.

You can swap to a later 3vz-fe with custom mounts, A 1mz-fe if you want all the OBD-II re-wiring, the 3.4L 5vz-fe simply won't fit in the engine bay. Inches too tall.

You can also do a direct swap to a 3s-gte. That's gonna be the easiest way to make 300hp.

For stuff you can do right now without any money.

Adjust your AFM here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=3196974&postcount=11), and adjust your transmission kick-down cable for a sporty feel here (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t53223.html). Also, see previous posts in this FAQ.

I forget if the 2vz-fe has ACIS (Varriable intake) or not. If it does, I can show you how to change it so it activates much earlier. Get some pictures of the passanger side of your upper intake manifold, the front of the entire upper intake manifold, and a few closeups of the vacuum hoses on top of the throttlebody (see a previous post in this FAQ).

Suspension parts are all around, any gen2 Camry part will fit. There are a few gen2 body kits.

You can always swap the E-153 M/T from a 92-93 Camry, or a 97+ Camry/Solara. It's fairly stout. A good clutch & it handles 400-500hp without problems.

Read on ToyotaNation.com also. A couple of 2vz-fe guys doing some modding. Jetspeed finally did his E-153 M/T swap.

Toyota used the A540/A541 series automatic without major mechanical modifications from 1987-2001. It's good for 250hp easy without any changes. A valve body upgrade & aux cooler takes them up to around 300hp. I wouldn't drive 320hp+ on a daily basis without a full rebuild. 350bhp+ will destroy the third gear clutch pack on the first pull.

Stock vs Stock, a m/t will win, simply becuase they have less power loss. Automatics, with a valve body upgrade, shift much faster than any manual can, and are always consistant. All reasons why almost all the fastest professional drag racers (in nearly any division) have built automatic transmissions. Best thing going if you drag race. If you like to turn, a manual is still better. ;)

Brian R.
08-06-2005, 12:56 PM

Q: What is the firing order for a 1999 1MZ-FE? I changed the valve cover & spark plug gaskets, spark plugs, and wires for a friend and forgot to note the order the wires went on.

A: For 1997 and later 1MZ-FE, firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6.

For 1996 and earlier 1MZ-FE, firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.

Cylinder numbering:
No 1 cylinder is nearest accessories, on right bank (nearest passenger seat) No 3 cylinder is next one to rear on that bank. No 2 cylinder is front cylinder on bank nearest radiator.

<=front of engine (accessory belts, passenger side of car)

Brian R.
08-15-2005, 09:58 PM


Q: My a/c doesn't work any more. All it does is blow hot air, never cold. What could be the problem?

A: Refill your a/c with freon. Put in freon until the compressor starts and there are no bubbles showing in the sight glass. If adding freon with the a/c on doesn't immediately start up the compressor, check the pressure sensor.

Q: Do I have to add any compressor oil when I fill the freon?

A: No, the only time you have to add compressor oil is if you have replaced a part in the system. There are tables that show how much oil to add, depending on which part(s) were replaced.


Q: 2.0 Toyota Camry 4 cylinders

What's happened is that when i turn on my ac, my compressor does start working, but it looses grip. I'm talking about the pulley.

When you look at the pulley with the belt on it, there is another thing like a pulley inside it. when ac is off, it doesn't spin, and that's how it should be. but when ac is on, it grips and spins for a second or two, then stops. It grips for another second or two, and stops. this goes on forever. when it does grip and spin, the second fan behind radiator starts. (other one keeps running). when it stops spinning, so does the fan.

Any suggestions?

A: Sounds like its low on refrigerant and its cutting off because of the low pressure, short-cycling. It probably needs to be recharged.


Q: I just had my A/C fixed & it is blowing cold air! Anyways when I run it my A/C it feels like the engine is going to fly out of the hood! My whole car is like shaking then when I stop at stops it feels like the engine is going to die! Like it doesn't have enough engine power to keep both of them running! Any help would be useful. Thanks

I have a 1991 toyota camry wagon. V6 engine. Automatic.

A: Let me tell you this much. Most of the time, it is only a matter of adjusting your intake (commonly known as idle). Now, when you stop, you said that the engine feels like it's about to die. That, to the best of my judgement without hands-on work on the car, is because when you turn on the AC, the clutches in the ac compressor grip and engine is losing power because it's being used to spin the compressor pulley. That means it needs more fuel now. The mixture of air/fuel is not right. This CAN be a real pain in the backyard. For an easy no-brainer fix, all you have to do is get a flat screw driver and increaser the idle. How do you do that? Don't make me die laughing, but look at the intake, (you can see it looks like a tube right behind the engine where the air filter hose is going and I think it should say EFI (electronic fuel injection) on it). Look from above it and you should see a screw with a flat head that's probably made up of plastic. all you do is open it up, that's turning left just in case you don't know. This increases the amount of air going inside the engine. Open it up until the engine doesn't shake and the car runs smooth. All this should be done with the AC turned on all the way to full. Next, when all this is done, turn the AC off and see if it shakes now. If it doesn't, BINGO!!!!

If it does, welcome to our world. Just keep tweaking and messing around with it until you get it to your liking.


Q: Does anyone know what type of A/C refrigerant the 5S-FE 93 Camry takes and how much and where I'd pump it into? I know I'm not supposed to be messing with that, but I think it's out of refrigerant anyway, and I just need to recharge it.

A: The 93 will take R12 but check the label under the hood to make sure, just in case someone has converted it to R134A. You can't purchase R12 over the counter any longer without a certificate, so if it's still R12 you will have to take it in some place to have it recharged. Be prepaired to pay some heavy dollars for it.

Q: I can't find any label under the hood, and, quite frankly, I wouldn't know what to look for as far as a 134A conversion.

A: The ports for R-12 has thread on them. The ones for R134a are quick connect type. If it's not converted, you should still have R-12.

I just converted my 92 to 134a refrigerant. It was quick and easy. The low end is in the back left side of the engine bay and the high side(you dont really use it) is right up front. I got a kit from autozone for 30bucks. 3 cans of refrigerant, pressure gauge/filler, and the adapters. It took longer to find the low end cap then it did to fill it. Quick 15min job. Well worth it. I have Ice cold A/c now!

You can buy Freeze12 and use it as a replacement for R12. It is available in stores and you can install it yourself.

Q: On the 134a conversion...did you end up having to do anything with the actual condensor? I've seen stuff where you have to remove that and change oil in it or something to that effect. And does the Freeze 12 require anything special, or do you just pump it into the system? Can you point me in the direction of the low end cap? pics would be nice, too. thanks in advance

A: Freeze12 just pumps in.

looking at the car from the front, with the hood up, its at the very back of the engine bay, against the firewall, at the back left corner, and its about 8 inches or so down into the engine bay. its kinda down below the passenger side of the engine bay, all the way in the back left corner.

With the incompatibility of the fittings, I don't think you can mix the two propellants unless you really work hard at it.

Brian R.
08-15-2005, 11:48 PM

Q: My windshield has 2 wiper marks from crappy wiper blades. how can i get rid of them? Is there some kind of cleaner that wil bring them off?

A: If you can feel them with your finger nails they will not come out by cleaning, If not too deep you may be able to get the out with some very fine rubbing compound, some people use tooth paste. Do a Google search and see what come up. Be advised, it will require lots of time and effort and still may not work.

Q: Thanks for the reply. The marks are very light. I have some stuff called Plastix from Meguiers. It does an excellent job on plastic getting scratches and oxidation out. Do you think that will work?

A: It shouldn't hurt anything to try the Plastix. If that doesn't help here is an article that describes how to polish out scratches in windshields.


Brian R.
08-19-2005, 07:01 PM

Q: My 2005 XLE 4 cylinder Camry (6k miles) hesitates when I give it gas. Highway speeds are not a problem, mostly at low speeds, trying to pull out into traffic. No "Check Engine" light has come on and it seems normal in other aspects. I didn't feel this when the car was new, but recently it has gotten noticably worse. My dealer said that all 2004-2005 Camrys do this and it is normal - nothing he can do about it.

Anyone have an idea on what is wrong? Any ideas are appreciated.

A: Some 2004-2005 Camrys are known to have a hesitation problem because they have a computer-controlled throttle and transmission.

There are TSBs out for both the V6 and I4 Camrys, as well as the '04-'05 Sienna, '04-'05 I4 Highlander, and '04-'05 I4 Solara. The fix entails reprogramming the ECM.

TSBs are found at:


Print out the TSBs and bring them to your dealer. Maybe he will do something about it.

Brian R.
08-24-2005, 11:01 PM

Q: Just purchased a 96 Camry. Has a few problems that I am working through. Have one that is a real stumper for me. The brake lights work fine during normal daytime driving conditions. When the headlights are turned on the brake lights are on. I have check the wiring and have found nothing shorted together. Thanks for any help.

A: The bulbs are probably installed incorrectly. You may have single filament bulb in a socket meant for double filament bulbs, or the correct bulbs may have been forced in backwards.

Brian R.
08-25-2005, 07:25 PM

Q: My Camry (2.0L I4 EFI) has 189,998 miles on it and it is running like a charm; all the things that I believe need to be replaced have been. I'm not going to be able to invest in another car for a while since I'm in college. Therefore, I'm going to need this car to last close to forever until I get a good job with some formidable income. I was wondering if there are any tips you could suggest for me to keep this thing running like the energizer bunny..?

A: Add an auxiliary transmission cooler. Pick a core up at a junkyard for $5-15usd, two 5/16" brass T fittings, 8 small hose clamps, zip ties, 5/16" oil hose.

Flush the transmission fluid every other year, or drain the pan every other oil change.

Change the oil every 5,000 miles - 6 months for dino oil, 7500-10,000 miles - 10 months for good synthetics. If your engine is one that is prone to sludge, shorten the above intervals appropriately (see first post in this thread).

Clean oil pan & screen, transmission pan & screen & change transmission filter every 5 years.

Rotate tires every oil change, twice if you're using a long life synthetic.

Clean the inside of the upper portion of the intake manifold, throttle plate, ISC/IAC valve(idle valve), and EGR valve yearly.

Change differential fluid every four years.

Flush the brake system with fresh DOT3, DOT4, or DOT4+/DOT5.1 every three years.

Change the fluid in the power steering reservoir every year, or flush the power steering system every other year ( http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t19334.html ).

Flush the cooling system every other year, or drain yearly.

Change radiator cap<s> & thermostat every 5 years.

Change PCV valve every 5 years.

Change O2 sensor<s> before 100,000 miles accumulates.

Change cat convertor before 100,000 miles accumulates.

Change distributor cap & rotor every other spark plug change (120,000 miles).

Check belts yearly, change belts when needed, change all belts (including timing belt) every 90,000 miles. Replace the water pump every other timing belt change.

Otherwise, just keep track of things. Like CV boots, things you need to grease, seals that can leak etc.

Use only NGK, or Denso spark plugs. Might as well be the generic $1 versions, as they last over the specified change time.

If spark plug wires ever become damaged, only replace with OEM wires, or high quality wires.

Lightly spray your CV boots with silicone lubricant when you're under the car for each oil change. Get as much of the surface shiny as you can. They will last a long time.

Pay attention to the body lube points and check the torque the chassis bolts as recommended by Toyota.

Make sure you use a high quality air filter. Some are very coarse and let in alot of abrasive dust. They do this in the name of high-performance, but other real hp filters are much better. Oil-wetted elements are the best (AMSOIL, TRD, etc). They actually trap the dust in the oil and prevent it from bouncing off the filter element.

Wash off the bottom of the car, wheel wells, bottom of engine compartment, etc a couple of times after salt exposure in the winter. As long as it's really cold, the salt is not too harmful. Once it has warmed above freezing, wash it off as soon as you can, at least once.

Wax your paint at least once a year before winter. More often is better. Use a good quality wax (I like Meguires, but there are alot of good ones).

Get the carbon out of your combustion chambers periodically - maybe every 100k or so. SeaFoam is quite good for this. Adding some to the gas (or Techron) once in a while is a good idea to minimize deposits on the injectors.

Watch all your fluid levels often. Even if they never change, if one of them suddenly start dropping, it is much better to catch it now than when something starts making noise.

To state the obvious: Drive your car like you want it to last. Everything else being equal, the harder you drive it, the less miles it will have in it.

(Thanks to Toysrme for alot of the above recommendations)

See also hints in http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=449003

Brian R.
09-07-2005, 12:48 PM

Q: How can I increase my gas mileage?

A: Make sure you are using a fresh air filter. If you use an oil-wetted filter from TRD K&N, or AMSOIL, be aware that the oil coming off the filter element can foul your MAF Meter which is expensive. Here is a link to air filter testing: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

Tweak your AFM (on engines that have them instead of a MAF meter) as shown in:
There is probably an optimum setting for gas mileage.

Your engine may get better mileage with higher octane gas, particularly if you do alot of highway driving. Use higher octane gas for a few tankfuls when you are on a trip, keeping track of the mileage and gas used, and see if that makes any difference. If not, don't waste your money. Say the price of 87 octane is 30 cents cheaper than 89 octane and you get 20% better mileage (from 15 mpg to 18 mpg) with the 89 octane. If the price of gas for the 87 octane is $3.00/gal, then you are paying 10% more per gallon, while saving 20% in gasoline usage. This is a good bargain. If you break even, I would still use the higher octane gas. You have to do the math and the experiment on your truck. At some price, it will be worth it for some percent increase in mileage. In all honesty, you probably won't see a difference in mileage between the octanes, meaning you should use 87 octane. However, it doesn't cost much to try and you should know about it if your vehicle derives a benefit from the higher octane gas.

Keep an eye on your ignition timing, idle speed, and wheel alignment. A high idle speed will cost you, as well as retarded ignition timing or bad alignment.

Fill your tires with 4-6 more psi than that recommended in your door label. Low tire pressure will cost you. Don't fill the tires above the maximum psi labeled on the tire.

Keep your injectors clean with a fuel additive periodically.

Get any "Check Engine" light problem immediately. Many times you engine will default to a standard condition when a sensor goes bad. It gets you where you're going, but it is far from optimum as far as engine efficiency goes.

Exhaust headers and lower restriction cat converters and mufflers will help your mileage to varying degrees. Buy stuff that you find has helped other Camry owners.

I don't believe in cold air intakes. They are a waste of money IMO. Maybe some vehicles have poorly-designed intake systems and are helped by almost any mod. Yours is not one of them.

Use 5W20 oil in your engine if approved by Toyota - possibly 0W20. Toyota has approved the use of 5W20 GF-4 oils (e.g., Mobil1) in most modern engines, and 0W-20 in 2AZ-FE engines as shown in the folowing TSB. 5W-20 is approved for use in the Camry V6 1MZ-FE, 2VZ-FE, and 3VZ-FE.

I have been using the 5W-20 oil in my 5VZ-FE 4Runner engine for about 6 months now and can see the difference in mileage.

It doesn't appear that either of these oils are approved for the 22R, 3S-FE or 5S-FE engine. I have been using a 50:50 mix of the 5W-20 and 5W-30 Mobil1 in my '96 5S-FE Camry for about 8k miles without any noticable problems. I have also notices a marked increase in mileage in this engine. I have been getting 410 miles/tank (about 27 mpg with 75:26 highway:city). I used to get around 360-375 miles per tank.


For additional hints and suggestions, see the following links:



(information on the above two sites authored by ctelsa)

Brian R.
10-14-2005, 12:14 AM

Q: What is the largest wheel size that will fit on my '97 Camry without interference when I'm driving?

A: They highly recommend that you don't go any higher than 17-inch rims with a 7-inch width at the most. If you want to actually drive the car, than go for the 17s. If you just want to sit it somewhere and show it off without turning the wheel, go for higher size. 17s look rather good on the Gen4s, and they're much safer to have since there's not any modification required. There is just way too much work involved to get a bigger tire size in that well than a 17.

If you're not sure about how the 17s would look on your Camry, go to http://www.tirerack.com and pick out your model car and go through and look at all the 17s. You can click on them and it will actually show you what they will look like on your car.

Q: Will there be any problem with bad speedometer calibration if I put on 17" rims?

A: Well, not exactly a problem, but, naturally your speedo will be wrong. You'll be going faster than your speedo says. How much faster depends on your wheels & tires.

Thanks yotatechie04 and AccordCodger

Brian R.
10-18-2005, 10:40 PM

Q: My rear valve cover on my 1989, Camry V6 is leaking oil (replaced the front gasket several years ago). I am planning to replace the rear gasket. I have reviewed my Haynes repair manual regarding the steps for this repair, but I did not find the information very helpful. If you have replaced the rear valve cover gasket or know the steps, could you help by providing the 1, 2 3's for this repair and/or could you let me know some areas during this repair that I may experience some problems.

A: Here is a link to the procedures for various engines as described by Autozone.com:


A: I did this a couple years ago on my '90 V6, and it wasn't that tough (and I am most certainly NOT a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination). It took me a while to psych up to it, but the trick was just to go slow and label every vacuum and other hose that I disconnected on both the hose and nipple side so I knew where everything went back together. There wasn't anything tricky about it, just a lot of stuff to disconnect. I worked for a while and then looked to see what else was holding up that whole assembly sitting on top of the valve cover and disconnected whatever I could find and then checked again. Then the whole thing came off in one piece. I did the whole job in an evening or two. The Haynes manual freaked me out talking about fuel lines and such, but there really wasn't anything to worry about.

Another thing to try is just to tighten down the six bolts on the existing valve cover. I've had to do this at least twice since I installed the new gasket when it loosens up and oil leaks out and starts to burn. It's just a stupid design with that thing positioned to drip oil down on the hot exhaughst pipe. Tighten them down and then drive for a week or two to burn off the existing oil and see if any more leaks out. It stops the oil leaking for a year or so if you crank them down tight.

If you do replace the gasket, replace the PCV valve while you're in there. Dumb that they put it on the rear cover buried under all that stuff.

Q/A: Thanks for all the advice regarding the procedure for replacing the rear valve cover gasket. I did the repair this past weekend – took 4 hours (great deal of time was spent cleaning valve cover and other parts). On a 1 to 10 scale (10 being hard), I would rate this repair a 4. I checked with the Toyota dealer and they wanted $396 to replace the valve cover gasket. I believe my comments below will help others in removing the air intake/throttle body (take off as a unit) to get to the rear cylinder head. Note: The steps below apply to a 1989 V6 but the process should be similar on other V6 Camry engines:

· Disconnect battery cable

· Unhook air filter case and loosen clamp on large tube going to throttle body – you do not need to disconnect electrical connection, since you can move the unit to the side out of the way

· Mark and disconnect any hoses going to the air intake manifold/throttle body – I took four close up pictures with my digital camera to help me during the re-assembly process

· Remove the hose that goes from air intake manifold to the PCV valve (note: if you try to remove the hose at the PCV valve you will have a difficult time – PCV is located on top of the valve cover)

· Disconnect top motor mount bracket on the passage side of engine (3 bolts)

· Remove the two bolts to ground wires (passenger side of air intake)

· Detach fuel line bolt (be careful not to lose the two washer seals)

· Remove the two bolts that go to the EGR valve (you will need a new gasket) – rear of engine on passenger side

· Attached to the air intake/throttle body are two brackets (located at the rear of engine on the right and left sides) used to support the unit – remove the two bolts

· Remove the bolt on the rear of throttle body that is used to hold the wire harness in place

· Remove all electrical plugs

· Remove the two bolts and two nuts that hold the air intake to the engine

· If you have disconnected all hoses, wires and plugs to the unit you should be able to lifted the unit from engine and move forward – you may need to tap the unit to free it from the gasket

· Note: I did not remove the throttle and transaxle cables from the unit since you can move the air intake unit forward while the cables are attached – gives you needed access to valve cover

· With the air intake unit removed you can easily remove the rear valve cover and hose going to PCV valve

· Clean valve cover gasket slot and gasket areas that hold the air intake manifold to engine

· If the gasket to air intake comes off easily remove, if not, it is next to impossible to scrap off (I did not remove gasket, since it was attached to engine block)

· I would also suggest that if you need plugs and/or ignition wires you install them while the air intake is removed. You might want to replace the o-ring on the distributor

· I would advise installing a new PCV valve, replace PCV grommet that holds the valve in place on the valve cover and replace hose if needed

· Place the gasket into valve cover slot and install - tighten 6 bolts holding valve cover to specifications

· Re-install air intake manifold assembly (use gasket seal on surfaces) in reverse order

· Problem area: Since the tubing to the EGR valve is not very flexible you may have problems installing the two bolts holding the tube to the EGR valve - it will go together

Now that I know how to take off the air intake manifold/throttle body, it will take me less that 2 hours to complete the job next time.

Thanks Henryf and camrycurt

Brian R.
10-20-2005, 12:07 AM

Q: How do you reset the airbag warning light in a '94 Camry?

A: Clearing the warning light in '92-'96 Camrys by the following procedure:

In the DLC1 (data link connector under the hood, see following diagram)

Use two short wires, one wire at terminal TC and a different wire at terminal AB

With the ignition key ON - wait 6 seconds, then:

Ground terminal TC to good body ground for one second
Then ground terminal AB for one second
Then TC one second
Then AB one second
Then ground TC until the light blinks.

Make sure the interval between grounding terminals is not more than 0.2 sec.

Remove the ground wires

Be very careful to only use the correct terminals.

Here is a diagram and explanation from Toyota:


Thanks Daniel M. Dreyfus.

Brian R.
10-20-2005, 09:30 PM

1. Small bottle of the proper Toyota touch up paint and Toyota clear coat, if needed (Toyota metallic finishes are clearcoat; a non-metallic colors were not).
2. DuPont PrepSol (available from autobody supply).
3. Disposable touch-up microbrushes made by ProTouch (from an autobody supply).
4. 3M Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound, Fine Cut (from an autobody supply).
5. Lacquer thinner to keep brush clean.
6. Wet-dry sandpaper: 1000 grit, 1500 grit, and 2000 grit (there is a new product out that is an alternative to wet sanding for use in auto touch ups - check it out at http://www.langka.com).

Procedure - Scratches
Use this procedure for long scratches and for large chips.

1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum.
2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up.
3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the full-length of the scratch. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the length of the scratch.
4. Let dry for 24 hours.
5. Now wet-sand the touched up surface with 1500 grit wet sandpaper. Sand in a front to rear motion since that's the direction the car is painted with, hence: you're going with the grain of the paint. Sand until you have eliminated the mound and any touchup paint outside of the scratch.
6. Clean area thoroughly and let dry.
7. Take a clean microbrush and begin to apply the clearcoat to the area. Don't be afraid to be liberal with it and don't try and keep the clearcoat within the scratch area. Apply approximately 3-4 coats, again until there is a small mound. Let it set and completely dry for 4-5 days.
8. Now, wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the clearcoated scratch blend into the rest of the paint - thus disappearing. (It produces a very gratifying feeling!)

Procedure - Chips
You can use this abbreviated procedure to fix the many small chips on the hood and front fascia.

1. Use 1000 grit paper and wet-sand the scratch and the area around it. Make sure to use lots of water when sanding. This keeps scratching to a minimum.
2. Use DuPont Prepsol to clean wax off before touch-up.
3. Using microbrush and liberal amounts of paint, touch up the chip. As soon as the paint drys (10 minutes) do another coat. Repeat until you have done sufficient coats to have built a small mound of paint over the expanse of the chip.
4. Let dry for 24 hours.
5. Wet sand with 2000 grit wet sand paper. You will begin to see the touch-up paint blend into the rest of the paint - nearly disappearing. The repairs are not noticable to passersby, and look much better than the chips did.

Note: The clear coat on the flexible plastic parts doesn't rub back as well as the rest of the paint, probably due to the flex agents in the paint..

Adapted from a post to VetteNet by Doug Johnson, and to the Grand Prix mailing list by Paul Berndt.

Brian R.
11-12-2005, 02:20 AM

Thanks to SidneyCanada for the following post:

There are several free online Toyota EPC catalogs that you can download that are amazing and I use them all of the time prior to a repair or when trying to cross reference parts:

Here is a post fellow poster (Todd) who posted it on another 4-Runner/Pickup discussion site about 4 years ago:

"There is a newer version of the EPC available for download.
Similar in size to the older version (254MB and 220MB zipped files)
I have them on my personal FTP server (not always running), and they are also on another FTP server.

Address and login for mine: Port 21
Login: t4x4pickup
Password: t4x4pickup

Address and login for the other (usually running 24/7)
User: upload
Pass: upload

Apparently they cover 1988 and up vehicles (I haven't unzipped mine yet).

Feel free to upload and download on mine.

Todd E:zoddoo@hotmail.com"

Here are other places to download the free Toyota EPC catalogs:

http://thepiratebay.org/details.php?id=3355606 (DVD)

For version 1/2002 the passwords are:

Europe 02052311
General 02032511
U.S.A. 02022608
Japan 02071608

Here’s the codes for the 01/2002 disks:

Europe 02022004
General 02022212
U.S.A. 02022608
Japan 01121209

Brian R.
01-03-2006, 04:24 PM
Torque Specifications

Q: I need torque specifications for the bolts in my 1988 Camry. Where can I find this information?

A: The torque specifications for bolts/fasteners in any Camry engine can be found at:


Brian R.
01-03-2006, 04:29 PM
Troubleshooting Camry Engine Mechanical Problems and Engine Performance Problems

Q: Where can I find a troubleshooting guide for my Camry engine?

A: A guide for troubleshooting Camry engine mechanical problems and engine performance problems can be found at Autozone:


Brian R.
02-25-2006, 03:31 PM

Modifying your 5S-FE

There are a lot of nay-sayers out there that say the 5S-FE motor is a weak non-performance economy motor and can't handle the boost. I don't agree with this assumption and feel that many setups are not so much limited by the motor itself but by their owner's understanding of how it works. The 5S-FE like any other motor has it weaknesses and strengths but overall is a very sturdy platform for modification. When planning modifications to a motor, I believe it should be thought of as a series of obstacles to be overcome. As you remove one big obstacle you find yourself facing another one but in general the overall system will become more efficient. In addition, upgrading one component can overstress another that was within its operating limits before the upgrade. To safely build a performance motor you need to understand what the limits of your motor are so you can know how far to push the envelope and what components need to work together to get the desired result. Here are some of the limits of the 5S-FE platform as I see them.

Basic Strengths of the 5sfe:
- Solid block - High powered 500+rwhp MR2s often use these blocks.
- Stroked crank - The 5S-FE is a stroker motor from the factory. Also used in 500+rwhp MR2s.
- Displacement - 2.164 liters which is great for spooling a turbo.
- Long intake runners - Although bad for high revs this gives more velocity for torque down low.
- 9.5:1 compression - Good for NA power and low boost power but limits the maximum boost.
- Fuel rail - The fuel rail on the 5S-FE is a top feed rail which is capable of supporting 850cc injectors or maybe larger

- 6300rpm redline - Valve springs and connecting rod bolts are not strong enough to be reliable past this.
- Short duration cams - ~220? and 8mm lift. The 3S-GTE has 236 advertised duration and 8.5mm lift.
- Small valves - 32.5mm intake and 28mm exhaust. The 3S-GTE has 33.5mm and 29mm exhaust.
- Linked intake and exhaust cams - There is a drive gear that keeps them synced so an adjustable cam gear can only be put on the intake cam and it also affects the exhaust.
- Fuel pump - Only good to ~235rwhp at stock pressure.
- 5S-FE Computer - Runs rich and is made for the stock NA injectors.
- Injectors - Made for max 150rwhp maybe less. 91-92 injectors are 205cc (yellow) and 93+ are 225cc (Dark green).
- Intake manifold - I don't know the limits of the 5S-FE intake manifold but most people shooting for high power replace it with a custom one. I suspect it would become a bottleneck in the 250-300rwhp range but that is just a guess.
- Throttlebody - I also don't know the limits of the stock throttlebody but it is only 2" in diameter which is rather small. I suspect the 5S-FE throttlebody will become a major bottleneck at 200-250rwhp depending on the boost level. Again this is just a guess.

What can you expect from your turbo 5S-FE?

A stock 5S-FE in good condition will easily handle boost of up to 9-10psi with as much as 180rwhp. An MR2 with a 5S-FTE is an absolute blast to drive and is a little faster then a stock turbo MR2. There is a misconception that the S54 transmission in the NA MR2 has shorter gears then an E153 turbo transmission. It is partially true but only the 4th and 5th gears are shorter. 1st through 3rd are almost identical when factoring in final drive gears. So why is a 5S-FTE MR2 faster? Because the turbo spools faster, the compression is higher and it's a bigger engine. :)

The simplest, bare minimum setup for a 5S-FTE includes the following:

- Factory 3s-gte Turbo CT26 with wastegate actuator
- Factory 3s-gte Elbow and Primary Catalytic converter
- Factory 3s-gte Exhaust Manifold
- Factory 3s-gte Intercooler w/ fan
- Factory 3s-gte Oil Pan
- Factory 3s-gte Oil/Water Coolant Lines to and from Turbo w/oil drain hose and clamps
- Factory 3s-gte turbo to intercooler Pipe
- Custom intercooler to throttlebody pipe (mine is 2.5" diameter)
- Factory 3s-gte Blow Off Valve with the VTV valve
- 4 MkIII Supra NA 315cc Injectors (light green top) part # 23250-70080
- 4 NGK BKR6E or BKR7E Spark Plugs (BKR7E is the colder plug for higher boost)
- Factory 3s-gte 2bar MAP Sensor part # 89420-17030
- 30 amp relay for intercooler fan
- Boost Gauge
- MSD-BTM # 5462
- MSD Tach Adapter #8910eis
- Oil and water send/return fittings (Other ways possible using JIC and AN fittings)
1/8 BSPT to 1/8 NPT male to male
1/8 NPT female T
1/8 NPT to 3/8 barbed hose
1/8 NPT to female 1/8 BSPT
Coolant Gooseneck from a 91 NA MR2
M16x1.5 to 3/8 NPT (I had to buy a M16x1.5 to 1/8, drill and tap it to 3/8)
3/8 male BSPT to 3/8 female NPT
2 - 3/8 NPT to 3/8 hose barb 90 degree bends
- 6 3/8" hose clamps
- Misc nuts and bolts for the turbo and manifold if you are missing any
- gaskets - Turbo to downpipe and exhaust manifold
- Misc Hoses and clamps
12"long x 2"diam hose (IC pipe to IC)
2"diam coupler (Turbo to IC pipe)
2-2.5"diam transition coupler (IC to TB pipe)
2.5"diam coupler (TB pipe to TB)
2 2.25" clamps
3 2.5" clamps
3 2.75" clamps
- 4 feet 3/8" oil/coolant hose
- 10 feet 5/32" vacuum hose
- 18 gauge wire and crimp connectors
- 2 1/8" exhaust pipe coupler and two pipe clamps to join the down pipe to the NA exhaust
- Zip ties and misc hose clamps to secure vacuum lines under boost.

Upgrades from the basic 5S-FTE could include:
- KO or other Downpipe
- Turbo exhaust system
- Boost Controller
- EGT Gauge
- Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (Modify for WOT reading from www.gadgetseller.com (http://www.gadgetseller.com/))
- Oil Pressure Gauge
- Oil Temp Gauge
- Pillar pod and/or steering column pod
- SPAL intercooler pull fan
- Silicon hoses for turbo/IC pipes
- T-Bolt clamps instead of screw type clamps
- SAFC with adjustable FPR for fuel tuning (Requires spending time on a dyno)
- J&S Safeguard instead of MSD-BTM
- SMT6 instead of MSD-BTM/SAFC (Requires spending time on a dyno)
- CT-20b or larger turbo. (Be very careful here. 9psi on a CT-26 is not the same as 9psi on a TD06. You'll need more fuel per pound of boost with a bigger turbo but you will get more power at lower boost.)

Many people ask if they can substitute different injectors or MAP sensors. The answer is yes but you will require some advanced way to tune your WOT fuel maps and it will get a whole lot more expensive. Call it the magic triangle of the 5S-FTE: 5S-FE Computer, 315cc injectors and 2 bar stock turbo MAP sensor. It's a balanced equation and anything else throws it off. The combination of CT-26, turbo MAP sensor, stock fuel pump, 315cc injectors and 5S-FE computer is only good up to about 10psi of boost. At this point the injectors are probably over 90% duty cycle because the ECU runs so rich. With some kind of fuel tuning you could possibly go higher but be careful, use a wideband and take slow steps up. If you go too lean you risk detonation and damaging your engine. Something else that is necessary to keep your motor safe is a device to retard timing according to boost level. You need this because you are tricking the stock ECU into thinking that less air is going into the engine and it advances timing past what is safe at boost. I chose to use the MSD-BTM and Tach Adapter because it was the most economical solution. A J&S Safeguard or SMT6 or SMT7 will also work but are more expensive with more features. Most people have it set to retard 1/5 to 1/2 degree per pound of boost. If you have a 93+ 5S-FE it will also have a knock sensor which is an added level of safety.

If 10psi and 180rwhp aren't enough for you then there is still hope. Toyota only planned for the 5S-FE to have 135hp at the crank but it is still the sister engine of the 3S-GTE and in some ways, as I mentioned above, the stronger of the two. All of the weaknesses of the 5S-FE can be overcome but not all of the solutions are cheap.

Here are some of the limits and what you can do to get past them:

- Cams - Webcams and others make cams that will increase duration and lift. Webcam grinds of 294, 577 and 101 should increase performance and still be streetable. Welded cams like Webcams are better then cams that are only ground because the base circle is kept the same so stock shims can be used. You will need an EMS to idle really aggressive cams like 256 degree and above. Remember that cams shift your torque curve to the right so buy cams to suite where you want your torque peak. An bad example would be buying 306 degree cams. They would be almost useless in a motor that has a 6300rpm redline. :) Also high lift or ground cams may require underbucket shims or shimless buckets to keep the shims from popping out. Just FYI the difference between 91-92 cams and 93+ cams is the diameter of the base circle and lobe size (smaller base circle on the 91-92 with narrower lobes). Otherwise they would be interchangable.
- Valves - 1mm or 2mm oversized valves will do wonders for volumeteric efficiency. 2mm oversized valves will require larger seats, porting and deshrouding of the combustion chamber. Use valves from a 3S-GTE for 91-92 5S-FE and valves from a 2JZ-GTE for the 93+ 5S-FE for 1mm oversized. The +1mm version of these valves will be +2mm in a 5S-FE.
- Ports - Port matching and cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports will improve VE and may be required to see gains from oversized valves. When porting you will always get the best results from a shop that can flow test the head. Many people recommend Chris Katthage of Engine Logics because he deals almost exclusively in MR2 performance motors and will document gains in flow when doing head work.
- Fuel Pump - Good to 235rwhp with stock pressure. Replace with a Walbro 255lph or supra pump if you want more.
- 5S-FE Computer - Runs rich and fires the injectors in batches. Also it can't idle a set of aggressive cams. Replace with a standalone or add an advanced piggyback. An SMT6 or SMT7 will allow you to get past your fuel and timing issues but still has limits. Personally I would go with stand alone ECU because it will remove all the limitations of the 5S-FE ECU.
- Injectors - With a standalone or advanced piggyback and a big fuel pump you can run much larger injectors. They may have to be custom though because top feed injectors are not as common as the side feed injectors found on the 3S-GTE.
- 6300rpm redline - To safely go above this you need upgraded valve springs (3S-GTE springs for 91/92 or 2JZ-GTE springs for 93+), forged or 3S-GTE rods because they will have bigger bolts (3S-GTE and 5S-FE rods are almost identical except for the rod bolts) and a stand alone computer to raise the rev limiter. 3S-GTE rods can be made to fit by grinding the crank journals down but they are also a few thousandths shorter then the 5S-FE rods so that can slightly lower compression.
- Compression - Custom Forged pistons can be installed for just about any compression ratio. Remember that overboring and oversized valves can change your compression ratio. For high boost you may want to shoot for 9.0:1 or less. Aggressive cams can also let you run higher compression and higher boost because with teh right tuning they reduce the propensity for detonation.
- Cam Gears - An adjustable intake cam gear can be made from a 2JZ-GTE adjustable cam gear with the center machined to fit. As for the exhaust, it will move with the intake in the same direction. This is probably the hardest limit to get past on a 5S-FE but it may be possible with some custom machine work to one of the internal cam gears to make it adjustable (Future project?).
- Intake Manifold - Just like any stock manifold there is only so much air that can flow through it and choosing the correct runner length and plenum volume in a custom manifold can add some extra velocity at different rpms and boost pressures. Most of the custom manifolds I have seen for the 5S-FE are side feed to keep air flow as even as possible between the cylinders.
- Throttlebody - You can use a Q45 or Mustang throttlebody to get a bigger bore and get more air flow. This requires a custom intake manifold and possibly some custom work for the throttle position sensor. With a stand alone this should be easier to get working.
- Oil Pump - Replace with a 98+ 5S-FE pump and shim the relief valve 1-1.5mm to get a higher pressure. If you do this you may have to put a restrictor on your turbo oil feed line to keep from blowing oil past your seals.

Credit where credit is due.

Much of the information on this page was mostly found on the MR2 Owner's Club Message Board at www.mr2oc.com (http://www.mr2oc.com/). Specifically from the instructions on how to turbocharge a 5S-FE by Aaron Fowler who was one of the first to make it work. Other people that deserve credit for some of this information are Chris Katthage, Josh Boam, Jim Snodgrass, Ricky B, Bill Wotschak and many others.

If you would like to add anything or correct and information that is inacurate or outdated please feel free to PM me on the board or send me email. You can find me on www.mr2oc.com (http://www.mr2oc.com/).

- MrTurrari

Brian R.
04-24-2006, 03:44 PM

Thanks to Scholzee on the Blazer forum:

NEW YORK (CNN/Money) - Common gas-saving tips were put to the test recently by Edmunds.com, CNN.com's automotive content partner.

While most, it turned out, actually did save gas, some of the fuel-saving advice you commonly hear didn't make much difference at all.

Drivers took two different vehicles on the same 56-mile route eight times under various conditions. The vehicles, both Ford Motor Co. products, were a 2005 Ford Mustang GT and a Land Rover LR3 SE. Both have V-8 engines. The Mustang's EPA-estimated mileage is 15 in the city and 25 on the highway while the Land Rover's is 14 in the city and 18 on the highway. In ordinary driving, most vehicles usually get about 15 percent lower gas mileage than EPA estimates indicate.

Using cruise control
Drivers are often advised to use cruise control during long highway drives on level roads. The idea is that it prevents "speed creep" -- the tendency to gradually start going faster the longer you drive -- and cuts down on other unnecessary speed changes which can eat up gas.

In Edmunds.com's test, the Land Rover got almost 14 percent better mileage using cruise control set at 70 miles per hour rather than cruising at driver-controlled speeds between 65 and 75 miles per hour.

The Mustang got 4.5 percent better mileage with cruise control.

Verdict: It works

Roll up windows, use A/C
When driving on the highway, most of a vehicle's power is used simply to overcome aerodynamic drag. On the other hand, air conditioning also uses a lot of power.

Drivers are often told that keeping the windows rolled up, which significantly reduces drag, and using air conditioning actually results in better fuel economy than driving at high speeds with the windows open. In fact, CNN/Money has offered the same advice in a story we've run on our site.

In Edmunds.com's test, conducted at a steady 65 miles per hour, "windows down" or "A/C on" made virtually no difference in mileage.

The Mustang got 4.1 percent better mileage -- 30.7 mpg vs. 29.5 mpg -- with the windows down. The Land Rover got 1.6 percent better mileage with the windows down, a difference of just 0.3 miles per gallon.

Basically, the extra fuel used by the air conditioner is made up for in improved aerodynamics at high speeds. Your not really saving any fuel but, at least on the highway, the A/C isn't costing you appreciably either.

Verdict: No difference

Avoid hard acceleration
You've probably been told before that rushing up to stop lights and racing away from them wastes gas. Turns out it wastes a whole lot of gas, according to Edmunds.com's test.

Slowing zero-to-sixty times to 20 seconds instead of 10 to 15 seconds makes a big difference in mileage over the long term. Braking slowly and gently helps, too.

Driving the Land Rover gently resulted in a 35.4 percent increase in gas mileage while feather-footing the Mustang garnered a 27.1 percent mileage increase.

Verdict: Big difference

Properly inflate tires
Not having enough air in the tires can cause a number of problems, including a potentially dangerous blow-out. But it also reduces gas mileage.

In Edmunds.com's test, the mileage improvement with properly inflated tires, compared to slightly under-inflated ones, was slight but noticeable in the Land Rover but non-existent in the Mustang. Still, for safety's sake, keep enough air in your tires.

Verdict: Small impact on mileage

Brian R.
05-14-2006, 12:32 PM
Q: How can I flush my transmission fluid without bringing it to a shop?

A: Here is one way posted by popeye08:

(from http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ee9950e/4658 )

You can actually change virtually all the fluid in the system using the following method. We have 5 Toyota's in the family, and I have done this to them all at least once.
It takes about an hour. Use whatever fluid is recommended on the dipstick, or in the manual. Our Camry's and Corolla's take Dexron, but the Celica takes Toyota Type IV fluid, available only from Toyota, at about $3.50/qt. Use what's recommended, or you'll be sorry. It's still less expensive than having it done.
1. Drop the pan*, drain the fluid, replace the filter, and reinstall the pan as you usually do.
2. Add 3 quarts of fluid. (or however many quarts of fluid are drained from the pan).
3. Remove the fluid return line at the transmission (usually the upper of the two lines), and place it into a one-gallon milk jug or similar semi-transparent container. You may want to place the container in a box with rags around it so that it doesn't spill.
4. Start the engine, and let about a quart or so of fluid get pumped into the milk jug (about 10-15 seconds).
5. Stop the engine, and add a quart of fluid to the transmission.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you get new fluid out of the drain line.
You'll use about 8-10 quarts of fluid total, including the 3 you put in at the beginning, so you may need more than one milk jug.
7. Reinstall the drain line to the transmission, start the engine, and check for leaks.
8. With your foot on the brake, put the transmission in each gear, then into Park.
9.Let the car down and check the fluid level on the dipstick. Add fluid if needed to bring it up to the proper level.
10. Take it out for a test drive, and check the fluid level again.

(*One caveat is that it is not nessary to drop the pan. Removing and replacing the filter is not necessary. It is more or less just a screen that doesn't get plugged unless your clutch plates shread or something equally traumatic happens. Brian R.)

Brian R.
05-28-2006, 02:11 PM
Information About Auto Repair and Some Tricks About How Not to Get Ripped Off

Info thanks to Flatrater (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=68974).

This is an article I found on the web. Now please read this as it impacts all of the car owners getting their cars worked on in a dealer or an outside shop. This is how it works use it to learn and to prevent getting ripped off by any shop.

"After working over 15 years in the auto repair industry, I have some insight I would like to share with everyone. The auto repair industry has changed quite a bit over the years as more complex automobiles have driven a new kind of mechanic into existence. Some of this has fostered smarter, better trained mechanics. However, it has developed the parts swapping business into enormous proportions. Part of the reason I changed careers was because I was so frustrated by working in such a crooked environment. Bad mechanics that lacked morals made the most money and honest ones lagged behind significantly. One key problem with the auto repair industry is the flat rate pay system which nearly all repair shops use. Basically it works like this: Labor time manuals are printed by the manufacturer for warranty repair time standards. These are times for a given job that are preset and are rounded to the nearest 1/10 of an hour. For instance, the replacement of an ignition module on a particular car may pay 1.1 hours in the warranty manual. That means that no matter how long it takes the mechanic to change that module, he still gets paid 1.1 hours. Aftermarket flat rate manuals are used for after warranty repairs. These manuals usually just take the warranty manual and multiply the time by 1.5. In some cases special times will be used instead. A mechanics flat rate time charge is usually referred to as a flag. For instance, the mechanic changing the module above will flag 1.1 hours for it under warranty or 1.7 hours retail.

Most mechanics are paid 100% commission based on what they flag. This is not always true but it is the overwhelming majority that are paid this way. For these mechanics, the motivation is to flag as many hours per day as possible. It is not impossible, or even that uncommon, for a mechanic to flag over 16 hours in an 8 hour day. The mechanic will make a given wage per flat rate hour. If he flags no time in a given day, he makes no money at all. Few shops guarantee a minimum income. There is no real maximum either. It is not unheard of for a fast, crooked mechanic to flag well over 80 hours in 5 day a week while working only a little over 8 hours per day. Thats not to say all mechanics that flag big hours are crooks though. The work load can be seasonal too. It was quite common to have a 50% or more pay fluctuation (flagged hours) from winter to summer.

The shop effectively makes a portion of what the mechanic flags so they too are interested in having the mechanic flag as many hours per day as possible. There is little motivation to be honest and quite a bit of motivation to rip off the customers. Most shops will not pay a mechanic to do a job twice. If a mechanic changed a water pump for instance, and the car came back with a leaking water pump gasket, the mechanic would have to replace the gasket and charge no time. The problem is that it is in the best interest of the shop and mechanic to blame the leak on something else that they can charge the customer for. Electrical and electronic parts typically have about a 30% to 60% no fault found rate on warranty returns. That means that about 30% to 40% were misdiagnosed in the field or the failure was not found during lab analysis.

Dealers/managers love those high speed guys because they make the company a ton of money. They figure what's a few blown out customers compared to a good profit. They're not going away, in fact, they are becoming all too common because that's what it's coming down too. Tech's haven't got a cost of living increase in years. When you ask a manager for a raise he says, "You want a raise, make more hours!" A few managers base their mechanics pay on hours produced. Techs working over 80 hours a week got a $2 per hour raise over a 40 hour tech. It is the exception to find a company giving a raise to the tech with the highest customer satisfaction.
There is not really a flat rate time for diagnosis in most cases. This means that a good mechanic that can troubleshoot a problem in 0.5 hours may charge significantly less than a clueless mechanic that spends 2 days swapping parts to figure it out. In the first case, an honest mechanic will flag 0.5 hours. Some may claim that since they are so smart, they will flag 0.8. In the second case, the same repair will cost the customer 2 full days plus any additional parts that were swapped as a guess. Again, there is very little incentive for the shop owner to intervene unless the customer complains.

Many mechanics will guess and swap parts until the problems are solved or the customer runs out of money. Only about one quarter of the mechanics out there can really troubleshoot problems accurately. Of those, only a portion can troubleshoot intermittent and more difficult problems. Most electrical and driveability problems on today's automobiles are intermittent. If you find a good mechanic you can trust, stick with him and tell all your friends.

On the other side of things, mechanics are often blamed for problems they did not cause. It seems all too often that a customer would claim the oil change we did caused their headlamps to flicker intermittently or some other bizarre problem that is in no way connected. Customers also seem to think that today's cars are smart and that there is some mystery machine hidden in the the shop that, when plugged into the car, will tell the mechanic everything that is wrong from low tire pressure to internal engine problems. This is far from accurate. Yes, modern cars do have sophisticated electronics on them and they do give the mechanic information such are fault codes and data values but they don't troubleshoot and they never will. On board software does have the capability of determining an out of range sensor or improper outputs. It can give the mechanic valuable information to help him narrow a problem down. It will never troubleshoot for him! An engine control for instance, which is generally the most sophisticated control on the vehicle, can only read values at the pins that connect it to the wiring harnesses. It can determine if a circuit is open or shorted or out of normal range but that is about it. It is up to the the well trained, smart mechanic to determine where the actual fault is. As I said earlier, most electrical and driveability problems are intermittent. That means that no matter what tests you run, chances are they will all pass. This is where data loggers and real smarts come into play.

It seems for the most part that bigger cities have more crooked shops than smaller ones. I think this is because a poor reputation in a small town will put you out of business whereas in a big city there are plenty of customers to go around. The strategy is usually to get all they can out of you when you do come if assuming you won't be back anyway. Also watch out for "mechanic of the month" award winners. These guys are usually the ones who flag the most hours to get a bonus on top of it. They are generally the most crooked as well.

I will now give a few real world examples of some of the things that go on in a shop. A new car dealer had a scam going that involved all the service personnel. They would bring new cars right in off the convoy truck and claim every one had alignment problems, driveability problems, and transmissions problems. Each of 3 mechanics would flag the maximum allowable time for work they supposedly did although no work was really performed on most of the vehicles. While these were all warranty claims, it is still fraud and the manufacturer was getting ripped off for more than a year. Some of these mechanics were being paid a 6 figure income by all the phony time they flagged. The dealership was finally caught and closed down but those same mechanics got jobs at other dealers. How would you like one of them working on your car?

A little old lady brought her car into a shop. A mechanic sold her over $2000 worth of parts and labor and the car was still not fixed. After all of that, it turned out there was a bad spark plug wire causing an intermittent misfire. The customer was still charged the full amount and none of the unnecessary parts were removed.

One mechanic was charging for piston ring replacements on certain vehicles under warranty on a routine basis. Few of the engines were ever taken apart. He would work at a dealer for a year or so until others would start to suspect and then go to another dealer to do it again. He rarely worked a full day but typically got paid over 12 hours per day.

During the 1980's, before detergent gasoline and deposit resistant injectors, the injectors would periodically need professional cleaning. The process typically pays about 1 hour but really only takes about 15 minutes of a mechanics time since he can connect the machine, start the process, and do other work while the injectors are being cleaned. Starting in the late 1980's, deposit resistant injectors were introduced and detergents were added to gasoline to prevent clogged injectors. Some mechanics will still try to sell you an injector clean as maintenance. There are cases where injectors may need to be cleaned to correct poor running but it is really not a maintenence item anymore. Another similar situation arises with the throttle body. Throttle bodies will sludge up, especially if you use natural (non-synthetic) oils. It was common in the 1980's to periodically clean the throttle body. In the early 1990's, new measures were taken to eliminate the need to clean the throttle body. In fact, some throttle bodies come pre-sludged with a special coating to allow proper idle speed. If you remove the coating, your idle may be too high. Some mechanics still sell throttle body cleaning as a maintenance item. It generally takes about 5 minutes and they will charge you an hour. In some cases it will actually cause an idle problem where one was not previously present.

Warning signs?
There are a few warning signs you can watch out for:

Does your mechanic claim you need more than one part to repair a given concern? If so it is questionable. While it is possible to have multiple failures contribute to a symptom, it is more likely a single part or condition is at fault. Occasionally you could have one component failure cause another component failure but that is also less likely. Always ask for a detailed explanation of what the root cause of the failure was. Beware of the parts swapper who wants to change every part that he thinks may be causing the problem. A typical example would be an EGR system. Many mechanics will claim that the EGR valve and sensor should both be changed if either is faulty. This is generally not true. There were cases in the 1980's when redesigned valves would not work without a redesigned sensor but generally either one or the other is the problem, not both. Sometimes the mechanic will recommend several parts but only 1 may be associated with your original concern. That is OK as long as he explains what all the parts are needed for. Often times he is trying to sell you maintenance work or has found worn parts that do need replacement. There should be a reason for every parts that is replaced.
Do they claim that you need "maintenance" work that does not show up in the factory maintenance guides? Like I mentioned above in the examples section, there are many maintenance procedures that are no longer needed but are still sold as required. The injector cleaning and throttle body cleaning are 2 examples. Most late model vehicles require very little maintenance compared to those of 10 years ago. Today's cars will never need a tune up. Most cars will need spark plugs replaced at 100k miles but no adjustments are ever needed. The timing and idle adjustments and other things that were part of a tune up are history. None of that is adjustable anymore. All you need is spark plugs, drive belts, brakes, oil, and filters for maintenance on most cars. Most wheel bearings are not serviceable anymore either. Always check your factory maintenance guides to see what is really required (that is if you can find a good one).
Are they trying to sell you brakes? In many cases poor driving habits will lead to premature brake wear. I have seen poor drivers destroy brake pads in less than 25k miles. However, upselling brakes is one of the most common scams some mechanics will try. Typically, you should be able to run your brakes down to about 15% remaining before you need to consider replacement. It is too common for some mechanics to try to sell brakes at 50%.
Are they spending too much troubleshooting time? This is really difficult to determine if you are getting a fair deal or not. I found that people would generally rather pay to swap out parts than to properly troubleshoot a problem. Generally, any hard failure, one that is always occurring and not intermittent, should take less than a couple hours to troubleshoot but even that is a rough estimate. Intermittent problems are the hard, and more common, ones. If the problem is only an inconvenience, such as a hesitation, lack of power, or intermittent problem with a non-essential electrical system, it is best to let it get bad enough that it can be easily duplicated before bringing it in to a mechanic. Things such as the yellow "check engine" or "service engine soon" light are best to wait until they are on constant as long as no other symptoms exist. It is not a bad idea to have a quick checkout of 1 hour or so to see if it is something simple but spending much more than that on a real intermittent problem can be futile. If it is a significant problem, like dying, then you had better get it fixed. This means determining the actual root cause of the problem, not just swapping parts until it seems better. In some cases if there is a significant problem that happens so rarely it can't be verified by the mechanic, educated guesses may be your best option. However, that decision should be made by you and your mechanic should have already checked TSB's and recalls to make sure it is not a known problem with a fix, and done a thorough inspection and basic testing to see if the root cause could be determined.
Are they selling you a tune-up? Vehicles built in the last 10 years or so do not need tune-ups. They do need spark plugs and filters but that is it. There are no adjustments or other maintenance required. You don't need to scan for codes either. Even on vehicles with adjustable timing, it no longer needs any adjustment unless you are having a problem. It will not vary a significant amount in the first 100k miles. If your vehicle is due for spark plugs, get them replaced. You need to change air and fuel filters too but that is about it. Again, consult your factory maintenance guides.What Can You Do?

Whenever possible, use a specialist. Today's cars are too complex for one person to be expert on everything. Generally the categories are: driveability, electrical (although driveability and electrical are about the same thing today), transmission, alignment, heavy line, light line, and maintenance. A good mechanic may have a couple categories he is strong in. It is important that a mechanic is well rounded and have knowledge of the complete vehicle. He could probably perform tasks other than his specialty but his specialty area should be by far his strong point and it should also be what he concentrates on. Compare it to a doctor. You do not want a skin cancer specialist doing heart bypasses. The same is true in the automotive field. Dealerships have the best tools and training and usually have enough mechanics to have specialists. Many times however, independent shops will be more honest.
Avoid the "mechanic of the month" award winners. These guys usually get there by flagging the most hours. That is a warning sign that he likely has the least morals and will try to get all he can out of you. That is not always the case but it is a warning sign to me. This can be a tough call. There are times when this guy is just fast and good.
Explain your problem in as much detail as possible. Don't just say "it runs bad". Explain exactly when it does it, how often it does it, when it started, how you are driving it when it happens, etc. Don't try to diagnose it! I used to have customers say things like "I think it's the carburetor" all the time. That does no good. I got the worst problem descriptions from men who wanted to appear knowledgeable rather than just describe the problem in plain language. Women were usually better about just describing the symptoms. If the problem is intermittent to any degree, say so. The absolute best thing to do is to take the mechanic for a ride in the car and show him exactly your concern. Make sure you are driving so you can show him exactly what your problem is, then let him try to duplicate it.
Use word-of-mouth to find an honest mechanic. Beware however that some people don't know a rip-off even after it has happened repeatedly to them. If they recommend someone, ask for details. Was more than one part required for the repair? If so, why? What other work was sold to them at the same time? Once you find an honest mechanic, stick with him. Get his name and request him every time. Tell all your friends. There are still many good, smart, honest mechanics out there and they deserve all the good business they can handle. This too may be difficult to determine word of mouth since some people think they are getting ripped off when they are not at all.
If you get ripped off, tell everyone you know, fight it with the shop owner, and make as much of a stink about it as you can. Don't let them get away with it. Report it to the Better Business Bureau. It is time to send a strong message to crooked mechanics and shops. Shut them down.Lacking knowledge of modern automobiles can really open you up to rip off artists. ASE certification does not mean you have competent techs, although it is a step in the right direction. I passed the heavy duty truck brake tests and I had no idea how the systems even worked and had never worked on one. I also passed the transmission tests with little knowledge or experience on transmissions. The tests are generally too easy and they give no indication of how honest the mechanic is. While ASE may attempt to better the repair industry, and they do help, they can't fix the root cause of the problems. I would, however, recommend ASE certified mechanics over those that are not. I want to make it clear however that there are some very sharp and honest mechanics out there who are underpaid for their ability. Sadly, it is the parts swappers and mechanics that do maintenance that really bring home the most money despite lower pay per flat rate hour in many cases than specialists. Training usually pays actual time at best. Some dealers don't even pay for training. The affect is that mechanics have less motivation to attend classes.

Most vehicle manufacturers now require at least some degree of training which is helping to drive the right behavior. Modern mechanics working on high-tech systems require a significantly higher skill set than mechanics of yesterday. Vehicles have become very complex. Most of the problems on these high-tech systems are intermittent making it even harder. Some manufacturers don't seem to understand what it takes to troubleshoot problems on these modern systems and believe that the mechanics out there simply don't have the aptitude to learn what they need to so they don't give the detail of information required to really understand these systems. This adds to the challenges a good mechanic faces. Modern vehicle troubleshooting requires many of the techniques a doctor would use to troubleshoot problems with humans. The real frustration comes when these vehicle doctors take home less money than a mechanic that just swaps parts. I would guess that only about 10% of the mechanics out there fit into the vehicle doctor category. Another 20% have some skills for troubleshooting. Many of the rest just swap parts and their skill is the speed at which they can change these parts. Often it is the doctors who really end up troubleshooting most of the problems for the others but he does not make the money for it. That should be improving as vehicles become more complex.

Modern vehicles are significantly more reliable than older ones. The newer the better. Modern vehicles require very little maintenance and very few repairs compared to those just 10 years earlier. Generally, any of the larger automakers make a better quality product today than the best cars of 10 years ago.

I blame most of the problems with the repair industry on the flat rate pay system. It can drive the wrong behavior throughout the organization. It gives clear incentive to go for speed and not accuracy. How would you like your pay cut in half because business was slow. Go home and tell your family that and see how it makes you feel. Upsell becomes easier to justify. It can be a very stressful living. Now work in those conditions and watch the guy next to you cheat the system and rake in the money with bonuses and praise from management to boot. Mechanics are no more dishonest than anyone else by nature, flat rate pay is to blame. "

Brian R.
07-05-2006, 09:11 PM

Q: I'm having trouble isolating a vacuum problem. I've checked the egr - good, replaced ALL vacuum lines, but car still misses at 20-25mph and 45-50mph. with egr vacuum line d/c'd the miss is gone. while trying to make sense of manual, i came across pic of egr and vacuum lines as they are connected in the pic - they don't match my cars egr vacuum lines although the pic is supposed to represent same. if anyone can direct me to an appropriate manual, or even better, if someone can send me a diagram it would be much apprieciated.

A: Give your VIN to a Toyota parts department and they should be able to order a vacuum routing diagram for you to stick under your car hood (if there isn't one already there). This is the best diagram to follow for your car. They have to have these available for cars who have to have their hoods replaced.

Brian R.
07-08-2006, 08:40 PM


Brian R.
07-19-2006, 08:05 PM

Q: My car model is 1998 Camry XLE. One month back I flushed the Transmission fluid and replace it with new fluid. Do I also need to change the differential fluid?

A: No, you don't. By 1998 they had integrated the differental supply with the A/T supply. Although the diff still has it's own drain plug, it is filled with the transmission supply. Differentials before 1998 have to be separately filled like a gearbox, only with ATF.

Just keep adding to the transmission supply until it reads normal.

That means bring the car up to temp by drving around the block. parking. Shifting through all gears & THEN checking the transmission fluid level with the engine idling.

Brian R.
07-29-2006, 06:47 PM

Q: I’m troubleshooting a Camry 2.2L for Codes P0105 and P0401 and would like to know if anyone can confirm the following figures are correct for the MAP sensor.

According to Haynes 97-01 Toyota Camry Manual (page 6-11)

(3) Using a voltmeter and suitable probes, back probe connector terminal 2 with the positive probe and terminal number 1 with the negative probe – Turn ignition switch on (engine not running).

(4) Apply vacuum to the sensor and verify voltage from the signal wire-
.03 to .05 volts @ 3.9 in-Hg
.07 to .09 volts @ 7.8 in-Hg
1.1 to 1.3 volts @ 11.8 in-Hg
1.5 to 1.7 volts @ 15.75 in-Hg
1.9 to 2.1 volts @ 3.9 in-Hg

This is what I have at this point:

ECM side (disconnected)

T(3) to T(1) is 4.5 volts
T(2) to T(1) or ground is 3 volts

Back probe T(2) and T(1) vacuum results (connected with Ignition Switch "ON")

MAP # 1 (Original MAP sensor)

3 volts @ 0 in-Hg
3.25 volts @ 4 in-Hg
2.5 volts @ 7.8 in-Hg
1.85 volts @ 15.75 in-Hg
1.45 volts @ 19.75 in-Hg

This MAP sensor shows codes P0105 and P0401
EGR system checks out ok

MAP # 2 (reference MAP sensor)

3.00 @ 0 in-Hg
2.75 @ 4 in-Hg
2.00 @ 7.8 in-Hg
1.75 @ 15.75 in-Hg
1.5 @ 19.75 in-Hg

Neither of these readings correspond with those in the Haynes manual. What am I doing wrong?

A: The description of the expected voltages in the Haynes manual is incorrect. The voltages listed are not the expected voltages as Haynes states they are, they are the voltage drops expected from the reference voltage. Haynes does not even tell you to measure the reference voltage correctly. They call the ECM supply voltage to the MAP sensor (Terminals 3 and 1) the reference voltage which is incorrect. The reference voltage is the voltage between Terminals 2 and 1 with the vacuum line disconnected and the connector attached and the ignition key "ON" (see below).

With the connector attached and the ignition on and the vacuum line disconnected, measure the reference voltage by backprobing terminals 2 and 1. Measure the voltages at these same connectors while applying different vacuums at the port. If your reference voltage without vacuum is 3 volts (for example), then you should see the following voltages at these vacuums:

3.94 in Hg 2.5-2.7 V [3.0 V (reference voltage) minus 0.5-0.3 V]
7.87 in Hg 2.1-2.3 V (3.0 minus 0.9-0.7 V)
11.81 in Hg 1.7-1.9 V (3.0 minus 1.3-1.1 V)
15.75 in Hg 1.3-1.5 V (3.0 minus 1.7-1.5 V)
19.69 in Hg 0.9-1.1 V (3.0 minus 2.1-1.9 V)

Apparently this is what you have done, without knowing that you needed to subtract the given voltages from the correct reference voltage.

Since your MAP #1 shows 3.25 V at 4 in Hg, It appears it is bad. That is higher voltage than the reference voltage (3.0 V) when it should be lower. Recheck your measurement, but it appears your DTC with this MAP confirms it is bad. Replace the MAP if this is a real measurement.

Although the second MAP is not exactly what is listed above, the trend is the same and I would assume it is good. Perhaps you didn't measure the reference voltage exactly correctly. This would bias all the measurements equally and in one direction. I don't think there is anything magical about these absolute numbers as long as they are close to the above ranges, it is having a smooth trend that is important. There is bound to be some variation with altitude.

The following link is to the procedure from the Toyota maintenance manual [notice that it says "(e) Measure the voltage drop from step (c) above for each segment", where step (c) measures the MAP output voltage with the MAP sensor (2 vs 1) disconnected from the vacuum line]:


Brian R.
08-09-2006, 12:30 AM
(Thanks to Toysrme for the following discussion)

Seafoam (http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm) makes the world go round!
Not really, but at $5 a can it's a steal.
A can is 1 pint. http://www.seafoamsales.com/images/updates_whitecap.gif
You need 2 cans.

Pour 1/2 a can in the gas tank when you stop to fill up. (This ensures it mixes well)

Pour the other 1/2 in with fresh engine oil.
At the least you will notice that the engine will idle noticeably smoother.

Here's where most people get confused. Using it down the intake to clean the combustion chamber & parts of the head.

1) Drive the car around the block until it comes up to temp
2) Pour 1/3 of a can into a separate container (1/4 of a can for 4 cylinders)
3) Crank the engine
4) Pull the brake booster hose off & put your finger over the end so the car doesn't lean out & stall.


5) Drop the hose in the bottom of the container & let your finger off the end. If the engine doesn't stall out completely SHUT IT OFF ASAP.
The fluid will near instantly disappear & the engine should stall from being too rich to run, or being too lean from the hose letting air in afterwards. This will not break your engine. You're not using enough fluid to hydrolock it.
6) The engine should sit for 5 min.
7) Crank the engine & let it run until the smoke dies down
Normally you will get an ungodly amount of smoke.
8) As the smoke dies down, drive the car around. Be sure to make liberal use of 1st & 2nd gear to get to the higher portions of the RPM range a few times. That would be 5000-6850rpm..
You are not breaking your engine by running it at those rpm... All of the computers on all of the engines will cut the fuel to slow the RPM down before the engine is damaged. Yes, they are built for it...

Why someone would want to do this?
To clean gunk, sludge, & misc. heavy buildup out of the oil system. Pump, passages, bearings, walls.
To clean the fuel system.
To clean carbon out of the combustion chamber.

Now some people ask why you want to go to the trouble of cleaning carbon out of the engine.

Because as it builds up on the valves, they don't seal as well - causing poor compression while the leaking gas superheats parts of the engine that are not designed for it.

Because carbon in the combustion chamber is bad. mmmm kay? Any carbon becomes superheated. Superheated carbon / metal will cause the incoming fuel & air to ignite earlier than it should be. This (Detonation, pinging, kocking - all just names for pre-ignition) is very derailment to many aspects of engine life.

This is what a 3vz-fe looks like @ 95,000 miles.
(Forget the fluids, fluids spill look at the black carbon build-up)


Here's what it looks like 6 months after the last 3 Seafoam treatments.


Seafoam = Good. It's cheap & versatile, while working at least as good as anything else; regardless of the cost.

Brian R. note: GM Top Engine Cleaner is another useful additive for the above purpose.

Brian R.
08-11-2006, 06:50 PM
Toyota has approved the use of 5W20 GF-4 oils (e.g., Mobil1) in most modern engines, and 0W-20 in 2AZ-FE engines as shown in the folowing TSB.

I have been using the 5W-20 oil in my 5VZ-FE 4Runner engine for about 6 months now and can see the difference in mileage.

It doesn't appear that either of these oils are approved for the 22R, 3S-FE or 5S-FE engine. I have been using a 50:50 mix of the 5W-20 and 5W-30 Mobil1 in my '96 5S-FE Camry for about 8k miles without any noticable problems.


Brian R.
08-12-2006, 05:00 PM

Q: I'm about to purchase a mint vehicle, is there anything I should know about it before I purchase it. it only has 60k original miles. and great body.

A: Timing belt may be due to be changed at 60K (or 90K), an added expense.

Check the CV boots and see if they are torn - or grease has been thrown over the underbody in the area of the CV joints. Expensive repair.

Check the color of the ATF. If it's really dirty, it may have never been changed and you may have a potential problem there. If it's mud, don't buy it. If it's just reddish brown, get it flushed as soon as you can. Make sure it shifts smoothly, quietly, and without a jerk. May indicate a problem.

You should actually flush (not just drain & refill) all fluids ASAP after buying the car. Oil change, Transmission, Coolant, Brake lines, Powersteering fluid. Keep this expense in mind.

Pull the oil filler cap and see if there is bright shiny metal visible or are there extensive black deposits, indicating a lack of maintenance. If there is alot of black crap visible, don't buy it. Check for oil leaks under the engine and transmission.

Have the brakes checked and see if they need to be changed. That will be an added expense after you buy it. Tires are costly also.

Make sure there is no smoke or steam coming out of the exhaust, either when just starting it or after it is hot. May be a sign of having been overheated or other serious problem. Don't buy it.

Check the coolant to make sure it is pretty red or green. No foam, bubbles in the overflow tank when the engine is running, or discoloration. If there are foam or bubbles - don't buy it.

Engine should run smoothly and quietly, no jerking, hesitating, or "Check Engine" light showing. Check recent emissions results if available.

Car should have no vibration at any speed. If there is any vibration, see if there is a bump in one of the tires. Anything else - don't buy it. If one of the tires has a bump, get it replaced as soon as possible. Take the cost of 4 tires into account if they are pretty used. You don't want one new tire on a set of badly used ones. On the test drive the vehicle should steer straight with no excessive side pull and the steering wheel should not be off center when driving on a straight road. Make allowances for an alignment and maybe front-end work if you find these indicators. Could be expensive.

Bounce the car hard, front and back separately. If it doesn't stop bouncing immediately, you may need to buy a set of struts. This can be expensive. As a general rule, there should be nothing wrong with the struts at 60K. If the car is a relatively new model, it may indicate that the car has been abused (or the speedometer has been rolled back). If the car is really old, the struts may be shot due to age alone. Mileage is not the only indicator of the expected strut condition. An old car doesn't have to have been abused to have bad struts at low mileage.

Along these lines: regardless of whether or not it has been driven hard, or sitting still, any car, regardless of make, can be expected to get around 10 years on the factory struts, springs, and rubber type mounts (i.e. strut mounts, bushings, engine mounts, etc.). And that it is fairly downhill quickly from there.

Check under the car for shiny welds or a lot of new parts that may indicate the car has been extensively fixed because of a collision. Also check the dashboard and see if it has a VIN in front of the driver, no VIN number indicates it has been replaced - check the VIN against the title. Don't buy it if anything is wrong.

Check the body panel fasteners. Example - Fender, Hood, Door, Trunk bolts, etc. Signs of chipped paint, disturbed mating surfaces, and tool usage may indicate that the vehicle has had body damage and been repaired. Run your fingers along the seams between the body panels. Wavyness or uneven spacing in the body panels indicates the presence of collision damage. Likewise, check the shock towers for welds, indicating repairs.

Check all the lights, turn signals, cruise control (may be designed to work only above a certain speed), and other electrical components for proper operation. Also check that the air conditioning blows cold air and the heater works.

If you don't know the car's history, check CARFAX.com for history. Only buy it if it has a squeeky clean history.

There are other cars available that don't have potential serious problems. Don't take chances if there are unknown costs after the purchase. Don't buy it if there is any doubt about it's condition. Have a mechanic look at it - it is worth the money.

Brian R.
08-13-2006, 12:31 AM

Q: I have a 2001 Camry. The drain on the sunroof keeps clogging up and I have to take it in to the dealership to be cleaned out. Can anyone tell me how it is done so I can avoid the expense of taking my car in a couple of times a year to get this done???....help.....thanks if you can explain!!!....

A: The sunroof has 4 drain points. 2 in the rear and two on either side in the front. 1/2" plastic tubes go from either point in the front through the side pillars and drain out the front fenders. The pipes can also be seen in the front if you remove the kick panel on the side under the glovebox. The tube should be behind the electrical panel which also has to be removed. Pipe should be seen going into the ftont fender. Make sure its not kinked. In the rear they drain out in the trunk area near the wheel wells, near where the jack is stored.

Pour water into the sunroof channel. If the water drains out at all 4 points all is well. If it doesn't drain out of the front tube, the tube could be kinked or blocked. For the front take out the sun visor and pry the headliner to see the connection with a flash light. Twist of the clamp and blow compressed air through it making sure you do not damage the headliner. For the rear you can open the trunk and blow air out through the pipes to clear any blockage.
Pretty simple.

To prevent it from happening make sure you close your sunroof whenever you exit the car to avoid debris from collecting in the channels.

Thanks to burki limousine for the above explanation

From Toysrme:
We have the same problem on ES 300's from time to time. The rear 2 drain holes are inaccessable without taking the sunroof out. Once they're clogged. That's it for most home-mechs.

Blow compressed air in the front 2 drain holes (in the sunroof). 20psi, then afew seconds of 40psi.
Don't go crazy with the pressure, or time you spray in it. You can knock the drains around & that would be bad... Generally a sub 1-second blast will clear a blocked drain. If it's been leaking, expect a rush of water under the car.

The drain holes are located one at each corner in the sunroof. If hard to see, just run your finger in the ridge until you feel it.

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