split CV boots don't fit

[Allen McCready]

For everybody's information, here are the facts.

A few days ago, I purchased two new split boot kits (PNO 99038) from my local Advance Auto Parts store for my 97 camry le, 5sfe, auto trans, abs, 4 cyl. They salesman said they were a custom fit for that model.

However, after I removed the old boots, cleaned and dried the CV joints, and applied the grease from the first kit, I found that the new boot is way too small at both ends. The halves are so far apart, that the little screws holding the seam together pull through the rubber holes. At best there is a large gap in the seam at the large end, where obviously the grease will quickly fly out. The small end is not much better.

I checked the second box and found that it contained no grease, the screws were laying in the bottom of the box instead of in a bag, there were no instructions, and the boot had obviously been used.

I checked the Advance Auto Web site to see if it gave me the same partno. It did. Then I printed the online picture of the boot. The picture lists several cars that the kit fits. Nowhere did it say Toyota, let alone camry.

Draw your own conclusions. I have filed a complaint at their Web site and will tackle the store today.

I will now checkout Toyota's new and remanufactured drive axles. Although that will be a lot more work, at least it will probably work.

[Allen McCready]

Both of the two Toyota dealers in my area wanted $482 for the driver's side driveshaft and $411 for the passenger's side, with a 1 year warranty. They had new, but NO rebuilt driveshafts.

Consequently, I just got rebuilt driveshafts/axles at a local store. The driver side was $77.19 + $70 core charge. Passenger side was $97.59 + $70 core. Both have a limited lifetime warranty, which means they replace it once, then give a 90 day warranty on the replacement unit. ABS brakes, which my camry has, up the price quite a bit. The salesman said he had installed a lot of drive axles and the remanufactured axles were better than new, because they were more likely to reflect the latest engineering changes? I don't know how much to rely on that opinion. He could also have sold me two non-Toyota vendor (GCK) NEW axles that would have taken 1 day shipping to the store. The price of those was $119.99 (right side) and $84.99 (left) plus a $45 core. However he talked me out of the new axles. There is no thick black paint on the rebuilt axles as there was on the originals.

Believe it or not, I got these axles at Advance Auto Parts, in spite of the split boot problems. (Since the store apologized for the problems with the split CV boot kits, and had the rebuilt drive axles in stock, I bought them.)

The Advance Auto Parts store salesman also gave me some other tips about installing the axles, e.g., use a ball joint fork or large screwdriver to pop the transmission end of the driveshaft out of the transmission case. He said there is an aluminum ring on the end of the old shaft sticking inside the transmission that should come back out through the seal without damaging the seal, but may require some extra force. The ring comes out still on the shaft. A pepboys salesman told me to put the spindle nut back on the end of the shaft and use a block of wood to knock it loose, instead of using a bronze punch, which I can't find anywhere, and a soft hammer. My Haynes manual says to use the punch and soft hammer)

The axles I bought require 217 ft-lbs of torque on the spindle nut. Since my torque wrench goes to 150 ft-lbs, I'm open to suggestions, although I already know I can buy a another torque wrench. I have a 1/2" breaker bar, so I don't think I will have a problem getting the nut off.
Pepboys had 1 rebuilt axle in stock and had to special order the other, which would take a week. Their remanufactured axles were $80 each (but that may be a w/o ABS price) with a $50 and $75 core and limited lifetime warranty.

A NAPA dealer had remanufactured axles available in two days at $70 + $50 core with a 1 year warranty. The NAPA website had NEW driveshafts for $139.99 and $99.99, but it didn't say whether that was with or w/o ABS. However, the local NAPA store couldn't find any way to order them and I didn't want to direct ship them in case they had to be returned.

Since I never replaced driveaxles, I don't know how long installation will take, but my Camry will probably be jacked up another 2 days or more.

[Brian R.]

IMO, the remanufactured drive shafts are as good as the new ones.

[calvic]

I've used the reman. axels with no problems! I've used the split boots also and have found out its just better to go ahead and replace the axles.

JJ

[Allen McCready]

Thanks for the replies. I went with 2 remanufactured driveaxles. I am just starting to install them.

[mrtwo]

Hi, how is going with you drive axles? Did u consider use a non-split boot? What is the core charge?

[Brian R.]

Using a non-split boot entails removing the half-shafts. Once they are out, you might as well replace them with the boots already installed as rebuilt assemblys. It would take more time to take the half-shafts apart, clean the CV joints (since they have been potentially contaminated), and install and grease the boots than to totally replace them.

Also, if the boots are split, then you have possibly contaminated the CV joints and are taking a chance that they will go to hell early because of contamination. The rebuilt half-shafts are more reliable than those with only replaced boots.

[Allen McCready]

Originally Posted by mrtwo

Hi, how is going with you drive axles? Did u consider use a non-split boot? What is the core charge?

The core charge was $70 each at a local Advance Auto Parts store.

I first considered a full boot, but when I found a split boot with a lifetime guarantee (joke), I decided to try that first. A full boot requires dissembling that part of the driveaxle and my Haynes manual said that Toyota recommends taking the whole driveaxle out of the vehicle anyhow before replacing full boots. So, remanufactured driveaxles looked like less work. Appearances can be deceiving and it depends on who you talk to. A Toyota dealer mechanic asked me why I was taking the whole driveaxle out of the vehicle, because the dealer changes the boots without removing the whole driveaxles.

When the split boots didn't even come close, I decided to try replacing the whole left and right axles. Other people said that when one boot goes, the other may not be far behind, although in my case, it appeared that both inner boots were better shielded than the outer boots. But again, appearances can be deceiving and I don't want to have to do this again for a long time.

Both axles came out of the hubs with no effort required.

However, the passenger side driveaxle bearing on the extension shaft was severely rusted into the bearing mount. With the car up on jack stands, it was extremely difficult getting to that part of the driveaxle to pound it out. I finally bought a super penetrating oil after no results with the Pepboys Proline spray. It still took many many many tries over several days. I had to wedge and pound on multiple tools, e.g., ball joint separator, wood splitter wedge, etc., between the bearing mount and the big driveaxle weight to the wheel side of the bearing mount, because nothing fit well. I didn't have the room to get a good hit with a hammer. I finally had some success putting the points of the ball joint separator on the big driveaxle weight and was able to pound almost horizontally towards the passenger wheel.

I had trouble getting the driver side driveaxle out of the differential housing also, until I inserted the points (fork ends) of the ball separator into the space between the driveaxle weight and the differential housing and pounded on the end of the ball separator with a very large hammer. The wedge shape easily forced the driveaxle out. Brute force using my legs on a pry bar as shown in the Haynes manual did not work. That driveaxle was held in by a ring clip on the end of the shaft. The passenger side driveaxle by design does not have that ring clip, or a groove to hold it.

Installing the passenger side remanufactured driveaxle took some time. I had to work quite a while cleaning out the rust from the bearing mount with emory paper and the penetrating oil. Then I had to pound on the outer end of the driveaxle with a hammer and a block of thick plywood to keep from damaging the end. I hope this is what you are supposed to do, but I saw no other way to force the new bearing on the remanufactured driveaxle into the bearing mount, even after I cleaned it with emery cloth. I also applied a thin coating of high temperature lithium grease to the inside of the bearing mount and the outside of the driveaxle bearing. I assume that the outside of the bearing is NOT supposed to rotate inside of the bearing mount and needs a tight fit.

When I went to install the remanufactured driver side driveaxle, I found that it lacked a dust shield, although both of the original Toyota driveaxles have one and the remanufactured passenger side did too. The remanufacturer's specs say they replace the dust shields. Consequently, I must now return that driveaxle and try to get one with the dust shield. I won't install the driveaxle without the dust shield. That will probably take another business day or two, because nobody, except one Advance Auto Parts store had them in stock.

[mrtwo]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

Using a non-split boot entails removing the half-shafts. Once they are out, you might as well replace them with the boots already installed as rebuilt assemblys. It would take more time to take the half-shafts apart, clean the CV joints (since they have been potentially contaminated), and install and grease the boots than to totally replace them.

Also, if the boots are split, then you have possibly contaminated the CV joints and are taking a chance that they will go to hell early because of contamination. The rebuilt half-shafts are more reliable than those with only replaced boots.

How do they make rebuilt half-shafts? Don't they just cut off the old boots, clean the CV joints (questionable) and install new boots? Just curious.

[mrtwo]

Allen McCready,
thank you for sharing your story. Are the inner boots stretched when you try to make a turn? I remember somebody said that the inner boots do not move alot so it may be ok just to replace the outer boots.
Also if the dealer does not take the axles out, how do they clean the cv joint? What is the super penetrating oil you are using? WD-40?
Good luck on your job.

[Brian R.]

I assume they dissassemble the half shafts, including the CV joints, and replace worn components. That is the only way to sell reliable rebuilds.

[Allen McCready]

Originally Posted by mrtwo

How do they make rebuilt half-shafts? Don't they just cut off the old boots, clean the CV joints (questionable) and install new boots? Just curious.

mrtwo,

NOTE that when I opened the box with the driver's side driveaxle, that driveaxle was missing the dust seal on the shaft that goes into the differential housing. The original Toyota driveaxle has that dust seal. I had to telephone two other Advance Auto Parts stores to find one that had the driveaxle with the dust seal on it. That made two out of three Advance Auto Parts stores that had a driveaxle missing the dust seal. I have to pickup the replacement driveaxle tonight, so it is still possible the salesman was mistaken. At this point, I won't install the driveaxle without the dust shield.

Below is an excerpt from the remanufacturer's (the one I used) website at http://www.cctaxle.com/reman_driveline.aspx. The PNO was 7453.

""""CCT has often been the industry leader in remanufacturing innovations. This fact, along with our dedication to quality is what has earned our CV Axle program such acclaim for achieving the highest levels of quality and performance standards.

The process is complex, but proven. First, all shafts are meticulously inspected. To ensure vibration-free performance, any shaft that is not straight or that has damaged splines is thrown out.
Next all threads are chased and seal surfaces machined and polished for easier installation and longer seal life. Outer and inner constant velocity joints are remanufactured to ensure quality and performance.

All new metal slingers and dust shields are used to keep sealing surfaces clean, along with new ABS Rings for trouble-free anti-lock operation.
Finally, all parts are carefully reassembled using specially formulated, high temperature, extreme pressure moly lubricants. New, premium grade boots and stainless steel boot clamps are then installed in addition to new nuts on specific applications as needed.

The cost of inferior CV Axles

Why are so many installers insisting on CCT Premium Quality Remanufactured CV Axles? Because more and more are learning that saving a few dollars on anything less can result in customer come-backs with noisy drive axles, poor outer joint performance and worse.

They know that customers depend on them to make the right choice in remanufactured axles. And they know that CCT delivers the quality, consistency and reliability with every axle, every time.""""

[Allen McCready]

Originally Posted by mrtwo

Allen McCready,
thank you for sharing your story. Are the inner boots stretched when you try to make a turn? I remember somebody said that the inner boots do not move alot so it may be ok just to replace the outer boots.
Also if the dealer does not take the axles out, how do they clean the cv joint? What is the super penetrating oil you are using? WD-40?
Good luck on your job.

mrtwo,

Good point about the stretching. That may help to explain why both of my inner boots looked good.

Hopefully the dealer dissembles the CV joints to clean them, although I wouldn't stake my life on that.

I was told by a message on one of these Toyota forums that WD-40 was not a penetrating oil. I had been using Pepboys Proline lubricant/"loosen rusty parts" Then at pep boys I found and used Blaster - PB Penetrating Oil for $5. It is hard to say with certainty that this product was the key factor in finally getting the bearing out of the bearing mount.

[Allen McCready]

Originally Posted by Brian R.

I assume they dissassemble the half shafts, including the CV joints, and replace worn components. That is the only way to sell reliable rebuilds.

Brian R.

That was also my conclusion.

[Brian R.]

Penetrating oil is special stuff. Lubricants like WD40 just don't do the job.

BTW, I have had good luck with my CV boots not wearing out by spraying them all over with a light coating of silicone lubricant everytime I'm under the truck/car for an oil change. Seems to keep them from drying out.