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#1
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Another Idle Thread!
I have a 5pd 90 integra Ls. My idle jumps up and down. When its cold it jumps up and down at higher RPMS and when it's warm it does it at low Rpms. It does this at red lights and whenever the car needs to idle. I have searched through the forums but I didn't see anyone who solved the problem. Sometimes it will idle fine but most of the time it is irractic. When I put the car in gear, it stops. When I unplug the TPS it stops but it steadily will idle at different Rpm's. When I unplug the IAC, it stops but the car feels funny while driving. Does it seem like I need a new Throttle body? or IAC? The Air filter is clean and the EGR hose has no holes. Sorry for posting another Idle problem.
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#2
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Re: Another Idle Thread!
Did you check your plugs, o2 sensors, check for vacuum leaks.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#3
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Re: Another Idle Thread!
I have fairly new Bosch Platinum 4 plugs and Theres no check engine light on for the o2 sensors and if I had a vacuum leak wouldn't it still idle erratically after I unplugged the Tps and IAC sensors?
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#4
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Re: Another Idle Thread!
Have you checked your coolant level? You know that the IACV works off coolant temp. Try checking that just to narrow it down a little.
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#5
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Re: Another Idle Thread!
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=322415
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=324791 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=325072 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=323098 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=322190 http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=309457 I think one of these threads cover most of the idle problems. i forgot which one. just in case you missed one.
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99 [email protected] psi si- I voted for the Terminator for Gov. 95 HB- B16a2- SC34@12psi WTB: USDM B16a2 or B16a3 complete short block. pm is the key. FS: B series InlinePro cast mani, PnH RC 550s, and Hondata S2b. pm me. |
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#6
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Re: Another Idle Thread!
PS: If all fails, go get a vacuum gauge from the local autoparts store. It is a valuable tool in diagnosing idle problems. The gauge should be used with other diagnostic tools depending on the readings, but, this is a first step if all other steps failed. If you already have a boost/vac gauge connected behind a IM vac source thats even better. Plug it up to a vacuum source on the intake mani. Readings should be read when engine temp is at regular operating temperatures.
what are the readings at idle? does the needle bounce around? if so, direction? how fast? and where? be extremely detailed if you come back here and post the results the normal reading should be a steady 17 to 21 in-hg (give or take 2) at idle. anything other than that represents a problem that is dependent on how, speed of needle movement, range of movement (thats why you have to be detailed) to determine if other diagnostic tools may be required to diagnose the problem.Also during the test at idle, give the throttle a very quick snap to 2500 rpm and let it go quickly. what is the description of this movement (be detailed). If you dont want to do this, take it to a experienced qualified mechanic/technician. A crooked mechanic can easily turn an idle problem into an expensive unneccessary repair to make some extra money (just a little consumer info for you). =)
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99 [email protected] psi si- I voted for the Terminator for Gov. 95 HB- B16a2- SC34@12psi WTB: USDM B16a2 or B16a3 complete short block. pm is the key. FS: B series InlinePro cast mani, PnH RC 550s, and Hondata S2b. pm me. |
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#7
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Re: Another Idle Thread!
I had the same problem with the idle on my 92 integra. You might want to check your wires to make sure the are plugged in the correct order and that the are not torn. Also check for lime build up inside the distributor cap. On mine I had to replace the cap and it worked just fine after that.
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#8
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Finally, it's fixed. I had to go to a wrecking yard and have them pull two rubber dealies that go around the window, as well as replace BOTH of my motor thingies- sucked! Yet another $200 bucks blown, but hopefully it's cheaper than what I otherwise would have had to pay. Pray this doesn't happen to you or anyone else you care about. On the up side, though, at least now I can hear my music for a change.
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