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#1
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Drag Slicks Snaped My Axle
I decided to put slicks on my car at a track in El Paseo to try and drop a few 10ths and the first time I launched with them it snaped my axle. I have a 1990 mustang GT with a 550hp 351 in it. Any clue what kind of axle i can get that will take the horsepower???
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#2
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axle
Ford Racing makes an aluminium axle that might help. Unsure of its reliability however.
I'd assume your axle was stock? |
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#3
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Moser and Strange make really nice hardened axles for many different carriers and rearends. Call em up and tell them what you run and they should be able to help you out.
__________________
92 Mustang GT, 347 Stroker(Forged Steel Crank/Rods-Balanced, Forged Alum Dished Pistons), B50 Block, Track Heat Intake, Twisted Wedge Heads w/ Stage 3 port/polish, 80mm C&L MAF, FMS 30# Inj., BBK AFPR, Trick Flow Stage 2 Cam, Trick Flow 1.6R Rockers, BBK EL-CC Headers, MAC O.R. H-Pipe, Flowmaster Cat-Back, Accufab 75mm TB, MAC CAI, BBK Pulleys, Griffin Alum Radiator, Mark 8 Fan, MSD Pro-Billet Distributor; AOD, Dynamic 3300 L-U Converter, B&M Trans Cooler; 3:73 gears. |
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#4
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Re: Drag Slicks Snaped My Axle
Whatever you do, make sure you upgrade from the stock 28 spline to atleast a 31 spline axle.
__________________
[size=1]-1950 Ford Custom, flathead V8
-2013 Ford Flex -1999 Ford F150 |
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#5
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You want to run 550HP motors with slicks it's time to get 31 or even better 33-spline axles from Moser/Strange etc.., and a new differential to match them. Just the facts of life.
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R.I.P. Hypsi- Andy your one of the best people I ever had the priviledge to know. AF and the world has lost one of the truly wonderful people...
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#6
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or you could just pick up a ford 9"... if you should do that from a junkyard or other such sorce get one from something like a galixie or anything else came with a big block in it.
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#7
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Re: Drag Slicks Snaped My Axle
Ya you need to get a 9" with 31 splines to hold that. Im workin on the same kinda thing myself right now.
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#8
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Re: Re: Drag Slicks Snaped My Axle
Quote:
__________________
[size=1]-1950 Ford Custom, flathead V8
-2013 Ford Flex -1999 Ford F150 |
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#9
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heh, i'm building a 408W nitrous motor, i'll need all the rear end i can get
hiflow is right tho, 8.8 with a girdle, a good spool/diff, and 33 spline axles will do nicely. Eaton makes a differential that's open until you engage an electromagnet on it, it's really handy and only costs about $500. speaking of which, do they make those for the 9" rear yet?
__________________
-Andy '89 Mustang 5.0 - How fast? i'll know this weekend. '86 Mustang LX - Shortblock is built, now for the rest of it. "Put the subject before the verb, hmm? Fail this class, you will." -Yoda teaches english class. |
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#10
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The 8.8 is ok but you either need a C-clip eliminator kit or have 9" ends welded on the 8.8 housing for safety. I broke a axle just a week after putting on my first set of C-clip elim's. Glad I did it. A wheel coming out of the car can do alot of damage. But I went thru three sets of elim's because they would eventually start leaking. Seems they don't like alot of street driving. Haven't had trouble since I switched to the 9" rear.
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#11
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Also, its easy to drop a $1000 or more on a stout rearend. But if you're making 550hp, you're used to spending money already. Moser Engineering can sell you a complete rearend, ready to go, but it will cost you.
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