2001 Grand Cherokee Limited Won't Start

[Jeep_Doug]

I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited on lease (my first, and definately LAST) that has had a chronic starting problem. It cranks strongly, but takes 30-45 seconds before it actually starts. This felt to me - and the dealership - like a fuel delivery issue. They replaced some O-rings at a leak by the fuel pump...no luck. Then they have replaced the fuel pump - TWICE NOW - and still no luck. The only change is now I smell gasoline in the cab everytime I start...not good. Bottom line is that if I shut down and almost immediately restart - like when I run into a store for a couple minutes - it starts instantly. When it sits for more then an hour or so it just cranks and cranks and cranks. It will always start - but sometimes I have to crank it 2-3 times for 30-45 seconds before it hits. I am afraid this cranking is in and of itself bad for the starter...

Any ideas?

Also - can I take this leased vehicle ANYWHERE to get warranty work done, or am I stuck with one of the two clueless dealerships in my area?

Thanks!

[Chrisbax]

I had similar quasi-random starting issues in my '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It would crank forever sometimes and not start, and sometimes it would just start right up. I took it to City Garage, and a $85 diagnostic test uncoverd a faulty Crank Position Sensor. The part was explained to me to regulate the position of the Rotor Button to assure it hit all the plug wire ends inside the distributor cap. (excuse my laymanship, but engines are not my thing)

The City Garage Mechanic was very knowledgeable, and a former Jeep owner.

The Invoice from City Garage reads:

Comment: The customer stated that the vehicle is hard to start sometimes intermittenly. The customer has replaced the ignition system and has not had sucess. Check and advise.



This move was after i replaced my Plugs, Wires, Distributor, and Rotor button, which might save you a couple hundred dollars if you have not looked into these things.

Hope something here helps.

[JPHILLIPPE]

2001 Gr cher Have A fuel Filter Regulator. If This part has gone bad the fuel pressure could blead off over time and couse our hard to start after sets for a while. That would also explan why it doesn;t do it when you go in the store and come right back out.


as for taking car in, any chrysler dealer will work doesn't even have to be a Jeep dealer.

[phjohnso]

99 GC Limited - hard starting if it sits for a few minutes - I am guessing that the fuel is draining back in the tank, because if I shut it off she will start right back up again.

I started to invevtigate the net and found a few topics about a fule filter regulator so I thought I would go buy one at auto zone but come to find out the fuel filter - fuel pump - and fuel regulator is all in tank - I am right in following this path to get the vehicle to start right up instead of cranking it for 10 - 15 seconds?

Anyone know of an easy fix for this - or been through what I described?

thanks in advance.

[mkvapil]

Did your trip odometeron your dash console resetted to "0.0" when this happened? I'm having similiar problem with starting.

[Dale Aeppli]

HI have your fuel pressure checked it should be 40-51lbs & should hold pressure after shutoff. The crankshaft position can be checkedby unpluging it & repluging together if it starts it is bad or corroided terminals. [email protected]

[Bob D.]

It could be a leaky injector if you are smelling fuel.
Try turning the key to the RUN position and listen to the fuel pump, when the pump stops try cranking it and see how it starts.


There is a Chrysler-specific leak down diagnostic test for the fuel system that your mechanic should have used:



After attaching the proper tools and gauges start and run the engine. Bring the engine to normal operating temperature.
Observe the test gauge. Normal fuel system operating pressure should be 339 kPa +/- 34 kPa (49.2 psi +/- 5 psi).
Shut off the engine.
Observe the test gauge. Normal fuel system pressure should not fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) for five minutes.
If the fuel system pressure falls below 207 kPa (30 psi) before five minutes has lapsed, then the cause of the fuel system pressure loss must be determined.

Testing For Fuel Injector Or Fuel Injector Rail Leakage:
Start and run the engine. Bring the engine to normal operating temperature.
Shut off the engine.
Using a suitable clamping tool, clamp off the rubber hose portion of the Fuel Pressure Adapter Tool connected to the fuel injector rail. The clamp should be positioned on the rubber adapter
hose between the fuel injector rail and the fuel pressure gauge.
NOTE: BE CERTAIN THAT THE CLAMPING TECHNIQUE USED IS ADEQUATE TO
PROVIDE A GOOD SEAL AND WILL NOT DAMAGE THE FUEL PRESSURE
ADAPTER TOOL HOSE.
Observe the test gauge. If the fuel system pressure does not fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) for five minutes, then a leaking fuel injector, fuel injector rail, or fuel connection is the cause of the fuel system pressure loss.
A leakage at a fuel line connection or fuel injector rail will be external to the fuel system and may often be found visually or by odor. If no external leakage is present, then the fuel injector(s) may be leaking fuel inside the intake manifold.
Remove the clamping tool.

Testing For Fuel Filter/Regulator Or Fuel Module Leakage:
Start and run the engine. Bring the engine to normal operating temperature.
Shut off the engine.
Using a suitable clamping tool, again clamp off the rubber hose portion of the Fuel Pressure Adapter Tool connected to the engine fuel injector rail. The clamp should be positioned on the rubber adapter hose between the fuel injector rail and the fuel pressure gauge.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Using a second clamping tool, clamp off either rubber hose portion of the Fuel Pressure Adapter Tool that is connected between the fuel module supply line and the fuel filter/regulator. The Fuel Pressure Adapter Tool was previously installed during Step 4.
NOTE: BE CERTAIN THAT THE CLAMPING TECHNIQUE USED IS ADEQUATE TO
PROVIDE A GOOD SEAL AND WILL NOT DAMAGE THE FUEL PRESSURE
ADAPTER TOOL HOSE.
Observe the test gauge. If the fuel system pressure does fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) for five
minutes, then a fuel filter/regulator or fuel line connection may be the cause of the fuel system pressure loss.
Leakage at a fuel line connection will be external to the fuel system and may often be found visually or by odor. If no external leakage is present, then the fuel filter/pressure regulator may be leaking fuel internally back into the fuel tank.
If the fuel system pressure does not fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) for five minutes, then a component of the fuel pump module or a fuel line connection at the fuel module may be the cause of the fuel system pressure loss.
Leakage at a fuel line connection will be external to the fuel system and may often be found visually or by odor. If no external leakage is present, then a component within the fuel module may be leaking fuel internally back into the fuel tank.
Note: This is for information purposes only; for info on the complete procedure see the service manual.

There is a simpler, less comprehensive general diagnostic test that will tell if the fuel pressure is bleeding down below specs but it does not isolate where the leak is:

1.Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and start and run the engine. Verify normal fuel system pressure of 339 kPa +/- 34 kPa (49.2 psi +/- 5 psi).

2. Stop the engine. Verify that the fuel system pressure does not fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) in less than five (5) minutes.

3. If the fuel pressure does not fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) in less than five (5) minutes,then the long crank time may not be due to the fuel system. Further diagnosis must be made to the entire engine system.

4. If fuel pressure does fall below 207 kPa (30 psi) in less than five (5) minutes, perform the full diagnostic fuel system test.


In the OPs case, if you're smelling raw gas your mechanic should be able to easily determine where the leak is coming from.

['97ventureowner]

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