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#61
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Nope, he did it from above, the steth has a long piece of metal, a tine, and he listened, but not from below. Above, and each fuel injector. It still made the noise. We also rotated the camshaft sensor yesterday, and no difference. It stalls on deceleration. What does that mean? Does that follow with the rod and lifter, or not? |
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#62
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
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Back to the engine: So it is a 3.8 .... good! You are not a dumbass, we all could use more knowledge. So the anti-freeze went into the fuel .... that's not so bad. I was afraid he had put it into the crankcase .... much worse! Just as a first step, let us first focus on getting the plug cables correct. You have already removed the windschield cowling, correct? ?? ?? Next, remove all the cables. Yes! Remove all the cables, both ends .... lay them aside. If this is too scary .... we can't make any progress. Let me know when this is completed. (But please, put the kerosene away!) |
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#63
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I did not know it'd be worse in the crankcase. I had to fix a leaking head gasket, or my step-kid did, once. It let out a lot of white smoke, but didn't damage the engine. Okay! Quote:
the cowling is on. I can take it off. There is a storm coming in, and the winds are over 35 mph, so I'll take off the spark plug wires, then report back! Gimme a little bit! |
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#64
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
K. We will stay posted. Don't get blown away!
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#65
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
So we are talking about a 3.8L.......no there is nothing wrong with you except that you are not an expert on this vehicle.......which is why you are here asking for help.
I also came here because I did not know much about my vehicle......and just try to help others as I have been helped by my internet searches and my own bumbling around. I'm not a mechanic by trade, and I started working on my own vehicles again because I got tired of "experts" messing it up. The good news is that, as I mentioned before, there are far more 3.8L engines in Windstars over the years than 3.0L, so there is more information for the 3.8L. The Autozone information that they offer for FREE is a short version of what you can get with a subscription on AlldataDIY (also owned by Autozone). Alldata is well worth getting a subscription to (I have a subscription). Alldata includes Recall and Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) and is updated as new information comes out from FORD. When you pull the spark plug cables off......take your time...... Grasp the boot....the fatter part at the end......not the thinner part of the cable.....and twist the boot on the spark plug.... This is turning (not pulling) to break the seal that will have taken place between the rubber boot and the ceramic body of the spark plug. THEN, once you have broken that bond......pull the boot off the spark plug. It is easy to damage spark plug wires. It is also very easy to switch & plug the wires into the wrong plugs (I have experience with that). If the spark plug wires are not pretty new, this would be a good time to install new ones.
__________________
Moderator for Ford Windstar room only Links to my pictures, intended as an aid, not a replacement for, a good repair manual. 1996 3.8L Windstar http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...092975/detail/ 2003 Toyota Sienna pictures (not much there yet) http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...781661/detail/ |
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#66
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
Hi friends If this wwindstar is having a knock sensor. This sound may be because of the bad knock sensor. azharj
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#67
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
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azharj, here is a link with a description of the function of a knock sensor. http://www.cartechautoparts.com/engine-knock-sensor/ |
| The Following User Says Thank You to tempfixit For This Useful Post: | ||
azharj (08-23-2012)
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#68
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Okay, took it to the mechanic. He looked weird when I returned, and my mother/crazy female relative also keeps insisting we look for a car for $600. I told her, there are none, and she has psychotic episodes, then screams we are lying and conspiring...you get the picture.
The mechanic said something easy was loose in cylinder one, then claimed we had to do the leckemby procedure. I pointed out to everyone, including mother, it did not throw codes. Then, right after we leave, the mechanic says something will happen today. And lo and behold, it acts up again, and throws a code today. When I arrive at autozone, the kid, friendly this time, who gave me the outrageous prices peviously over the phone for the sensors, is there, with the code reader already out, and it reads p301, 0171, and 0174. When we are driving, something sounds like it is rattling around, literally like a bolt or something, in the engine-I can hear it track itself around, like it is loose. So, I am not claim anything happened, but hey, what would you say? It had a cel all the time. All the time, just today, and right afterward when we started it up. Weird hunh? But, now I have to get the parts. 2 other things happened-crazy drug addict neighbor waited for us afterward we left the mechanic's, and was waiting for us at the police station, and then I flipped him off, he ran like a coward. Then, today I get followed by the ex-head of the local witches, whose lover we had gotten into a fight with, and I turned into the state, and the state shut down her practice. Interesting eh? I also finally made some progress with everything else we were working on too. I also was invited to do Krav Maga at a local church, where the drug addict attends. I checked, and the schedule is vastly different from the ones I was told it had, and it is supposedly free. I don't really wanna go to no-pad kickboxing with people who do not like me, in off hours when no class is scheduled, but it did sound interesting. Even if it is covered by the church's insurance too (I was told not to worry). Thot this happened last year, too. About the free classes. They are tied into a local guy, named Robb Hamic, who named a book after a comment I used to make all the time on the internet (not intentionally by him, just another coincidence). So, anyway, can you buy the isolator bolts at autozone? I did talk to my neighbor, and he was cleaning the heads etc on a 4-bolt v-8. He was weirded out by the entire thing, too-said something loose in cylinder 1 (on my car), they ought to clean it. The cylinders and pistons on his engine were beautiful. I'll get him to read the codes too. They don't seem to clear even when I turn off the battery for a little bit. |
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#69
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
Isolator bolts at autozone.:http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...uestid=3135473
You can look this all up yourself on the internet, http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/ho...Fc7JKgodKgl5fg http://www.napaonline.com/ http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ You need to find the source of miss in clyinder no 1 before getting any parts so you only need to make 1 trip. I believe that when you remove the rear valve cover you will find the problem. Autozone also has the valve cover kit. |
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#70
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
The codes can be cleared with the code reader.....however, at many auto part stores, they are not supposed to do that.
In the absence of a code reader....disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes should do it....HOWEVER, it is best to have the headlights on to drain down any charge that is still in the electrical system. I choose headlights because they are a large current draw that stays on with the ignition OFF. A condition that causes a P0301 (misfire detected on Cylinder #1) 'should' cause the CEL to flash while the failure is happening. A flashing CEL is an indication of a problem that can damage the catalytic converter if the vehicle is contiued to be run. Then after the problem is not happening for a short time, the CEL will stop flashing....and just stay on steady, indicating that there is a stored code(s). A misfire could cause unburned gasoline to be passed on into the exhaust, which would be something that could damage the catalytic converter. The computer does not know what caused the misfire.....It could be lack of spark, lack of fuel, too much air.......not enough air...... Of course, lack of fuel will not cause damage to the catalytic converter. P0171 and P0174 are indications of too lean of a condition in both banks (1 code is for front bank, the other is for the rear bank). Same failure, but on both of the banks. Too lean means that the air to fuel ratio has too much air for the fuel present......or too little fuel for the air present......same issue......2 opposite possible causes. The most common is too much air (vaccum leak). To more clearly define what a vaccum leak really is in this context. On the air filter tube, there is a air flow sensor, aka MAF. This device tells the computer how much air is entering the engine. ANY air that enters the intake between the MAF and the cylinder is what we are calling a vaccum leak. The computer does not know about that air......it only knows about the air that passed through the MAF on the motor side of the air filter. The air that enters the intake through the PCV valve (Front valve cover on 1999 and newer) is replaced by air that flows into the rear valve cover (1999 and newer) through a small hose that goes to the big flex hose that goes from the throttle body to the MAF/Air filter box. Since this air has passed through the MAF, the computer knows about it. A dirty fuel injector can cause all 3 of the codes that you are getting.....lack of fuel on 1 cylinder and the computer (PCM) is trying to compensate for it. Of course, there are LOTS of other possible causes.....the source of your noise could be related to the codes as well. If you are still wondering about the valvetrain......removal of the valve cover(s) would be the way to check that......then, if you cannot see the problem......having someone crank the engine while you CAREFULLY watch the rocker arms might be a good course of action.
__________________
Moderator for Ford Windstar room only Links to my pictures, intended as an aid, not a replacement for, a good repair manual. 1996 3.8L Windstar http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...092975/detail/ 2003 Toyota Sienna pictures (not much there yet) http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...781661/detail/ |
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#71
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
Searles, in the EGRValves Dirty thread you stated in post No, 5 that the isolator bolts are green, This being said I would also look for a vacuum leak along with removing rear valve cover and checking valve train as wiswind suggests before removing upper plenium again.
Does it look like the front cover is the revised cover from the kit??? |
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#72
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I checked the tsb and references to it, including prior posts to this forum by 12 oz. and by you, and that would seem to mean the leckemby procedure, and also the imrc refers to some to a runner control both of you have been upset with in the past. Today, I watched it, and the IMRC moved, and made some sort of funny noise, like it had never been moved before, and refused to move back. The comments were that it meant the runner control device was broken, which it seems to be. It is supposed to move back and forth, when the car is started up, and it did not.. I could move it, however it refused to move on its own. But, I was using a different computer, and the part numbers were saved to a docx file, so I will have to go back. But, in the prior posts made by you and 12 oz, it said it would have to therefore be replaced. It's on the left hand side of the engine, and has a dorman replacement part number. It opens and closes, mien does not move really, it just sits there. Does this sound familiar? Another junky Ford electronic part. |
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#73
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Would he be right? |
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#74
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
The IMRC on 1999 and newer is electrically driven, 1 actuator drives both banks.
On older Windstars, it was driven by 1 vaccum driven actuator for each bank. The IMRC on all years is in the LOWER intake manifold. I do not see this as a cause of your noise that I heard in your video. What is common on the 1999 and newer IMRC is that the IMRC shafts in each bank get disconnected from the actuator. There are nylon clips that break, or fall off. Another issue that I have seen listed 1999 and newer is that the location in the lower intake manifold where the IMR shaft passes through becomes worn, and lets enough air through to trigger the failure codes. If the IMRC is not working, the best position for them to be in is the CLOSED position. As this is not likely the source of your noise, I would determine if they are working.....and worry about the noise source first. They way that they work is that the IMR will be closed below a certain RPM and only open under certain higher RPM conditions. Do NOT race your engine to try to determine if they are working. 12ounce would be better than I to help you determine which is the closed position and if they are working, as I had the old version. The old version had strong springs that held them open and then the vaccum was applied when you started the engine....pulling them closed.....so it was easy to determine if they were working. However, this may not apply for the newer (1999 and newer). Knock sensor. The issue relative you your vehicle on this is that the knock sensor could be picking up that sound you have and the computer could be delaying the timing. THIS is also not a likely source of your noise, so I would not worry about it right now.
__________________
Moderator for Ford Windstar room only Links to my pictures, intended as an aid, not a replacement for, a good repair manual. 1996 3.8L Windstar http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...092975/detail/ 2003 Toyota Sienna pictures (not much there yet) http://www.flickr.com/photos/4157486...781661/detail/ |
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#75
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Re: Timing Off on Windstar, Where are Timing Marks?
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ford part number is XF229559AA, http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Ca...indstar#Search link above says "callout#9j559". That did not help at all. I think it is the mirc, as it is not working. Whenever I have unhooked the battery, and leave it off for an hour, when it comes back on it runs fine-noise, but that is it. Then, it coded yesterday. Why do you think it is still the valve cover? I checked the front one, valve displacement was perfect 120-130-120 across the rear. wiswind had a post here about the imrc, which is broken http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic398539.htm Or not working. It is hard to move, makes a squeal, then turns only once when started, never moves back. Why would disconnecting the battery improve it so much? I need to buy parts. Does anyone know where I can find on autozone the dang imrc for the ford 2000 windstar? |
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