crank pulley removal

[coonass420]

i am trying to get my crankshaft pulley off so that i can that i can change all the timing parts. It wont come off. i'm using 1/2 inch drive impact air wrench. it is a b16a out of an early model sir I beleive, also i think it is a 5 mil. seires if that helps, is it reverse thread or what?

[luti]

I had the same problem when I was trying to change my belt... I took it into a shop to get them to break that bolt free. They used an air gun and a torch. They fired it up bright red and then it popped out. It's not reverse threaded, just very tight.

[B20A5T]

This is a VERY common issue on all Honda Engines, not just JDM or USDM specific. Most are 17 or 19mm, so they aren't something that's just going to thread right out. No locktite or thread hardening material is used either on these bolts "from the factory", and are really only about 1.5" in length (threaded part). As all of us DIY'ers find out eventually, these aren't fun to break loose. 1/2" impacts won't get them if this is the first time the bolt is being removed. The only 3 reasons to remove this bolt are to access the Timing Belt, change out the crank pully, and to remove the pully for engine rebuilding purposes.

Try using a spare set of hands when performing this job. Have a buddy, or even anyone off the street for that matter (this job is THAT annoying) stand FIRMLY on the brake pedal. From there, place a 1/2" drive 17/19mm socket on the bolt itself along with probably a 1 - 2' extension (single extension is perferable along with an impact socket). From this point, place any 1/2" ratchet on the end of your extension (now sticks out past the wheel well), and place a 4 - 6 foot breaker bar on the ratchet. I'm not kidding when I say, "Hang" from the extension! I've had to jounce up and down on my 6' extension a few times to break the bolt free. This still isn't an easy task, but I guarentee you this process will work. Never heat up the bolt to break it free unless it's a last resort! The heat can tamper with the structure properties of the pully and or the crankshaft itself.

The brake pedal bit is what gets to most people as striking at first read, so I'll briefly explain this. By pressing down on the pedal, your brakes obviously lock up. This prevents the drive axles from turning inside the transmission. Your transmission, auto or standard, splines into the crankshaft.... the bolt is connected to the crankshaft. Leave the tranny in gear or Park, and use the brake method as saftey for your transmission.

In saying all of this, enjoy the timing belt job. Keep the tension up on those belts, and have fun installing the belt as well! Many times (more often than not), the installer on his/her first try will leave a bit of slack in the belt and when you finally fire the engine up, you get noise from the belt slapping the timing belt cover(s). It's a PITA job, but it's worth it's money when you get proficient at it and charge for labor! Happy install and I pray this little bit of info can become useful to someone.

AIM me for more info/help: Sugar2mtb

Dustin

[ivymike1031]

Note that the above method will not work for an automatic transmission: the engine will turn freely unless you do something to stop it.

When I changed the timing belt on my '97 D16Y8 w/AT, I was pleasantly surprised to find a hexagonal recess in the crank pulley. A 50mm nut fit almost perfectly inside this recess, and using a big wrench on this nut allowed me to hold the crank stationary while I fought with the crank nose bolt. It was quite difficult to remove the first time.

In many cases, the hexagonal recess is not availalble, and you'll have to stop the engine from spinning by jamming a big screwdriver (or similar) in the ring gear.

[B20A5T]

50mm? I can't even purchase a wrench that large through Snapon; I have 8 - 46mm wrenches. Jamming somehting into a pully or anything rotational is a bad idea as things get too much stress put on them this way and can easily screw up seals or even bend parts. For this reason, I always just recomend having someone stomp on the brake pedal. Even with an Automatic (done several older model B16's with autos), this is the best way to stop anything from rotating. Always make sure you retorque the bolt to whatever your specific specs are for your make/model and you'll be fine.

Dustin

[ivymike1031]

A few comments:

The wrench is available from Napa for about $30, and a pack of six nuts that size can be ordered from McMaster for about $7.

The hexagonal recess in the crank nose pulley was put there by honda for the specific purpose of allowing one to hold the crankshaft stationary while removing the crank nose bolt (check the service manual for more info). Honda sells a tool for $150 to do the same thing.

Many car manufacturers put access plates on the bellhousings of their vehicles to allow you to do exactly what I suggested - jam the ring gear with a screwdriver or other lever. In many service manuals, that is the recommended procedure for holding the crank. The ring gear, in case you're wondering, is the big gear that the starter engages with.

Your memory must be getting rusty. An automatic transmission allows the engine to spin freely when it is in park, so the brakes won't affect anything. If you don't believe me, get in a friend's car w/ auto and start it up with the tranny in park... The engine spins around and around and around no matter what you do with the brakes.

In fact, with most automatic transmissions, it doesn't matter what you do with the shift selector, if the engine isn't running, it can spin freely. This is the reason that you can't push-start a car with an automatic transmission.

[jl9208]

Hey Guys!

I'm doing the same exact job (My 1st time actually) but following along step by step according to the Chilton manual.

I'm at the point where I think you are at as well...." GETTING THAT DAMN BOLT LOOSE"!

I think I may have really messed up though. You see.....As I was attempting to loosen this little bugger, I had someone holding pressure against a camshaft bolt in the opposite direction. What resulted was the crankshaft jumping teeth over the belt! Can I just get this bolt out and line everything up when I actually get the covers all off?....Or is this messed up now?

Anyways, best of luck to you all, and if you come up with a solution please post it up here. I'll do the same.

I just went out and bought a brand new 1/2" drive impact gun today and the bolt laughed at it!

I was going to take it back tomorrow and tell them it was junk, but from what I read here it sounds typical that a 1/2" gun won't "Cut The Mustard"

Great Board Here!

Jim (Phx_Az):flash:

[ivymike1031]

yeah, you'll be okay. Just try not to spin the engine before you get the cam phasing corrected (wouldn't want to run a piston into a valve).

The first time I ever did it, I got a 1/2" drive electric impact wrench for about $300, tried it out, and then took it back and said "this thing doesn't have any torque!" The guy at the counter said "yeah, lots of people have said that" and he gave me my money back.

[luti]

I had two 18inch breaker bars one 2 foot extension, the tool from Napa and a good length of pipe. I had attached the tool to one breaker bar and inserted it into the pulley and then wedged it against the bottom of the chassis. It held TIGHT. I then put the impact socket on the extension and attached it to the other breaker bar and covered it with about 5 feet of pipe. With both me and my father pulling, pushing and standing on the pipe we still couldn't get the bolt out. We took it in to the shop at the corner and had them torch it and hit it with their gun, came right out. They put it back in by hand, I took it home and finished my timing belt about 1 hour later.

[B20A5T]

Wow, lol, I was wrong about the automatic posting; my appologies! I'm a Honda Automotive Tech, and have access to many a great tool when it comes to doing special jobs like Timing Belts. The first Automatic belt I did on a 90 model 2 door hatch back Civic was an eye opener. I remembered doing the brake pedal thing, and "it worked" or so I thought at the time. Apparently, this belt was at about 120K miles; original! I'd forgotton that one of his #3 cyl. Intake valves had fallen right into the cyl. and kept the engine from spinning even though my guy held the brake pedal for me (before my dealership time). This kept everythig STILL! I got the new belt on, and didn't realize the valve was in the cyl. till AFTER I'd started to adjust their clearances.... hehe, that was a nightmare of a job!

Ever since then, I've got a custom made, though I believe a company produces them now, camshaft DOHC Cam Gear place holder that works just fine for the job on DOHC's! place it between the two gears, and nothing moves. So I use that instead of having to pin the cam in place. Other than that, I don't usually get the SOHC Automatic Timing Belt Jobs. I've always been a manual guy, and even went as far as to swap my automatic for my current manual tranny in my 88Si4ws lude.

The braker bar bit is about the only way I can get those bolts off easily. We're not allowed to use a torch, for obvious reasons, on those bolts. 1/2" guns, and even 3/4" impacts will do jack to those bolts. If your belt jumps any, just make sure your stuff is all in time when you place the new belt back on. Honda's aren't free turning, and if fired while out of time, they CAN bend valves do to piston slap. I don't care if you have Titanium vlaves, if they hit the pistons, they can/will bend.

Dustin

[jl9208]

OK... I took a few days off from this project but will be resuming it come Friday. I am a mobile mechanic and the 1/2" drive gun I have didn't do a thing!

NOW...... I was at NAPA yesterday and I purchased a 3/4" drive 3/4" socket. I have a 1" drive impact that I take tires off with and I'm going to get a 1" to 3/4" adapter and whack that stubborn bolt right out of there!

I know that after I do this I'll be able to say :finger: that bolt!!!

I'll let you all know how things turn out

Jim