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#1
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I have two problems.
Problem 1: I play my music pretty loud in my car. When I play songs with loud bass, there is this plastic thing on the door, that goes around the leather thats in the middle of the front door that rattles. Its kinda hard to explain but you will see it if you open up your door. When I push on it while the song is still playing, the rattling stops, when I let the pressure off, the rattleing returns. Its really annoying, and it happens in both of the front doors. Problem 2: The back license plate rattles a little when I play some music. Since there are only 2 bolts holding the plate at the top, and non on the bottom, the bottom kinda rattles a bit (probably a lot when I drive). I was thinking maybe sticking little soft styraphone tabs on the bottom inside of the plate, so there wouldnt be any room for the plate to move back and forth. Any ideas? Thanks
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HOW TO:TURBO INSTALL FOR G20 (pics and full 7 day write up) Infiniti G20 Turbo My G20 Website My CarDomain Site My Army Website |
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#2
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Not styrofoam! You can use this foam that they sell that is like leather. In the case of your license plate, place it behind the plate and run the screws through it to hold it in place. Try placing it behind that plastic thing in your doors and you should be straight. Let me know how it turns out. Peace!
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#3
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How am I suppose to put the thing inside the plastic on my door? it would seem that I would have to take the whole damn door apart or something.
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HOW TO:TURBO INSTALL FOR G20 (pics and full 7 day write up) Infiniti G20 Turbo My G20 Website My CarDomain Site My Army Website |
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#4
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Quote:
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Why do banks charge you a "non-sufficient funds fee" on money they already know you don't have?
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#5
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Damn . . . I can't remember how to do that schitt . . .
Anyways . . . just remember that there are some screws on the door jam . . . you gotta pop off some little black pieces on the head of the screws first . . . then there are some more of them on the bottom, I think(?) . . . and last but not least, when you're trying to take that panel off and it won't budge . . . pop out the power window switch. Use a blade type screw driver (flat head) wrapped in a piece of cloth so you don't damage your interior. underneath the switch, there's a screw that attatches the armrest to the panel and the panel to the door frame . . . if you have all of the screws out, and that piece of plastic around the door lock/handle on the inside . . . then firmly grab the sides of the panel and push it up . . . use a motion similar to that you would use to put somebody up against a wall when you grab and lift them by the arm pits . . . PS . . . that's how it is on my P10 . . . I don't even know if we're talking about a P10 here . . . |
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#6
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Does the Infiniti department do that kinda stuff? If i say that the doors are rattlin or something, will they fix it? I remember that one of my friends had a 96 Honda, and like a year later or so the same thing happend to him, and he went to the service department and told him the problem and they took care of it. Will ours do that too? If so how much would it cost approximatly?
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HOW TO:TURBO INSTALL FOR G20 (pics and full 7 day write up) Infiniti G20 Turbo My G20 Website My CarDomain Site My Army Website |
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#7
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Hey Koojo,
go to any car audio install shop... they know how to remove your door paneling with out damaging anything, if you dont. show them where the noise is and they can probably use Dynamat, or a Dynamat equivalent to mute those vibez... ![]() while you're at it.. ask them for a small 6 inch long by 1 inch wide piece of dynamat to stick on the back of your licence plate. stick it toward the bottom.. where you dont have screws holding the plate snuggly.. this is where it vibrates.. i did the same thing. btw.. if you dont know what Dynamat or mastic is... its basically a very thin foam like material with a sticky back on it. you can stick it anywhere under panels or underneath lining to keep stuff from rattling, keep inside noise (music) in, or keep outside noise out... |
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#8
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If you go to the G20 club at Yahoo. I posted a section on how to remove the door complete with pictures inthe Photo section ......
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#9
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I agree with what someone else here said. Just go to an car audio store and have them kill the rattling problem for you. They will have all the materials.
__________________
Why do banks charge you a "non-sufficient funds fee" on money they already know you don't have?
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#10
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any idea what the price would be at the audio shop?
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HOW TO:TURBO INSTALL FOR G20 (pics and full 7 day write up) Infiniti G20 Turbo My G20 Website My CarDomain Site My Army Website |
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#11
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doubt it would be much at all. depending on the shop they'll either do it for practically nothing at all... or in the worst case.. maybe an hour of labor.. $50-60 plus maybe $20 in material ...MAX ...max I'd pay anyway.
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#12
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This is crap! Once again the rattling has returned on BOTH doors, the drivers side and passangers side. I have gone to the dealer twice about this, and both times they removed the panels and added padding, but the rattling comes back. My bass setting is only set to about 2-3 nothes, and i listen to rap music. But that shouldnt matter...because the panels should be designed to handle the bass. I go to the dealer because the do it free there, because the car is under warranty. I dont wanna go to some other place and pay like $150. But what should I do? What can I tell the dealer? Thanks
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HOW TO:TURBO INSTALL FOR G20 (pics and full 7 day write up) Infiniti G20 Turbo My G20 Website My CarDomain Site My Army Website |
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#13
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you should invest in a service manual and take apart the door panels yourself. locate where the rattle is coming from and dampen it.
had to take apart my dash just to get to this noise I was getting from it myself. it was kinda time consuming and some hard work, but WELL worth it! and I learned something too, so thats all good.do it yourself.
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1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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#14
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i have my hole trunk and licence plate cover wiht dynamat and it's still
rattels , but not as much when i first started my system. front 5.25 polk momo rear 6.25 polk momo two 12's polk momo in a compound bandpass box punch 800 for the 12's power 400 for the mids & hi. and many other things |
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#15
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koojo, did you take apart the door by yourself? just do it dude, dealers dont care about your car, only YOU can fix these kinda problems. or will cost you like 100bucks at the stereo shop.
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1998 Prelude SS - TEIN HA with upper pillows, SSR Integrals 17x7 with SP8000 (215/45), GReddy Evo catback, Iceman Comp Intake, DC Sports header, Apexi VAFC, ZEX 55 shot with bottle heater, NOS blanket, Factory Body Kit, Spoon F/R tower bars, JDM Foglamps, Carbon Fiber trim, Razo pedals &knobs, Fiamm Dual air horn Future Mods: Lighten car, 2nd 10lbs nitrous bottle would be nice too. 2001 G20 P11 AT- TEIN NA, TRM Snipers 17x7 with Potenza RE910 (215/45), Arospeed Dual-outlet Muffler, K&N Drop-in Airfilter, WW Front Lip, Nakamichi MB75 1DIN 6CD Changer/Receiver, FIAMM Dual Air horns, Levoc Pedals, PIAA (H4 Superwhite H3 Ion Crystal, 168 SuperWhite) 2002 WRX MT- TEIN HA's with upper pillow mounts, 1000Miglia HT3 17x7 with sumitomo HTR+ 225/45/17, painted side skirts, Cusco front & rear strut bar, Whiteline rear swaybar, aluminum endlinks, Blitz NUR Catback, HKS seq. BOV, factory front lip, rear valance, Kartboy short shifter and bushings. Future mods: dressup wheels with Potenza S03 225/45/17 tires, TurboXS UTec, maybe an uppipe. by then, it'll be fast enough.fiamm dual air horns. |
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