97 Grand Marquis questions minor problems

[pendemic]

Hey AF i just bought my second grand marquis and this is a fixer upper and i wanna get to know my car so ill be able to fix it on my on so theres few questions i have.

1. i need to put a new turn signal assembly in and i have NO idea how to get the old one out, i have the haynes manual and it still doesnt describe enough so does anybody know where i can find a diagram or can tell me how.

2. when im on the highway i can hear a slight rattling sound when i get it more gas it goes away. any idea of what that could be?
3. im not sure but theres a long cable under the bottom of my car and im guessing its the E-brake and it hangs REAL low, anyway i can tighten it up?
4. The driver door handle is kinda loose when i open the door(havent checked the repair guide yet for that one) can i tighten it up like it use to be?
5. when i warm the car up in the morning, i can turn it over and it goes right off, and when i turn it over again it starts and even when its warm i give it some gas and the car kinda hesitates and i can step on the gas about an inch to get the motor going normal.


other than that the car runs like a dream! thanks for all the help.

[Blue)(Fusion]

Hi pendemic, welcome to AF!

1. Do you mean the multifunction switch in the steering column (the lever that controls the wipers, turn signals, and high beams)?

2. Do you have any idea where the rattling is coming from? The engine compartment? One of the wheel hubs, perhaps?

3. That is the E-brake cable but I'm not sure how to tighten it up, unfortunately.

4. I'd suspect you will have to access that from the inside of the door. The only stuff I've done with the door interior off was replace a speaker in one of these cars.

5. Sounds like it needs a good tune-up. Since you just bought it, you probably don't know what much of the previous maintenance on it is. So you might as well cover your bases. Change fuel and air filters, replace spark plugs and plug wires if necessary. Clean your MAF sensor using CRC MAF Cleaner spray and disconnect your battery for atleast 15 minutes to reset the computer. Check for proper operation and timing of the distributors. Change your oil, ATF, coolant, and power steering - at the very least, check for proper color and odor.

If it still has that problem, it may be old/bad gas, a sticking Idle Air Control valve, or a weak fuel pump.

[pendemic]

Hey thanks!
the signal im referring to is the actual light on the outside of the car, i want to say the turn lamp assembly? i dont know the actual word for it but i went to autozone to get one and they didnt have them in stock. heres a link to the photo from my flickr account: http://www.flickr.com/photos/46990169@N04/4309937921/.
I'm just having a hard time figuring out the proper way to replace it.

the door handle i just read it in my haynes manual so im gonna get right on that.

the knocking i coming from the engine compartment, i have a check engine light on so i need to see whats that about too.

overall the car isnt bad at all like you said needs a tune up from a good mechanic.

[Blue)(Fusion]

I'd get the code read ASAP. Especially if there is a ticking/knocking noise. It may even be engine damaging (such as a lack of oil pressure).

This link might help you figure out how to get the turn signal out. It's geared towards fixing foggy head lamps but you should still be able to find a way to remove the side lamp in the same manner as described.

overall the car isnt bad at all like you said needs a tune up from a good mechanic.

You said you wanted to learn more about the car so you can do the work. A basic tune up is a great time to learn! Everything I listed for a tune up can be done with basic hand tools (a socket wrench set and screw drivers). Just don't be afraid to ask for help when you need it. We're all more than happy to help walk you through it.

[pendemic]

ok so i found the proper name for it, its called the "side marker lamp/cornering lamp" that is busted, and from the link you showed me im pretty sure i can do it with ease.

Im not gonna drive anytime soon, just go to autozone and get the basic fluids,transmission fluid, best synthetic oil, radiator fluid, replace pcv valve, replace filters...oil, fuel, air, and definitely get that light checked out.

And last but not least replace the intake manifold! i didnt ever notice those things were made of f-------( let's be nice in open forums)plastic! what the hell was ford engineers thinking!? But im just tired of shelling out money for something i can possibly do on my own so i came here to get the help.

The headlights are foggy too, im gonna go to a pick n pull for some extra headlights and see what else they have for my MGM.

The car never had a transmission or engine rebuild, so far what ive read in the repair manual its a good idea to look at getting it rebuilt. any suggestions on which is better transmission or engine rebuild or both, and if possible is there a stronger transmission i can put in? I get my student loans in a day or two for college so ill have between 1,500 to 2,000 to use thats including parts and labor

[Blue)(Fusion]

Yes, definitely do replace the intake manifold. I upgraded to the 2001+ Performance Improved (PI) model. It has longer runners for more low end torque and the aluminum crossover. It isn't an exact fit on our 2000 and earlier cars, but not too hard of a job to make work. I got the kit for $300 everything included. It's wise to do this when you flush the cooling system since it has to be done then anyway. If you want to stick to stock with the aluminum crossover, Dorman sells good non-PI replacements.

Don't bother rebuilding the transmission if it's working okay. How many miles are on it? When you go to flush the ATF, be sure to use Mercon V, not Dexron III/Mercon V or anything "universal" or "compatible." Use only specific Mercon V. Castrol, Valvoline, Motorcraft all make good Mercon V. Drop the pan and drain the torque converter as well to get as much fluid as you can out. If you wanted to firm up the shifts and save the transmission life (less clutch wear), you can do the J-Mod while you're at it. I just did a few weeks ago and it was so worth it!

And use only a Motorcraft PCV valve as I've found out other ones do not flow the proper amount of air and suck up alot of oil. They're about $5 at the dealer.

[pendemic]

so i bought all the parts that i needed, and the air filter in there was no good at all.
i got:
spark plugs
spark plug wires
air filter
oil filter
new door locks
transmission fluid
coolant
engine oil(what you recommended)
new radio
pcv valve
fuel filter

got started on the door to put the locks in and couldnt figure how to replace the old one after i took the panel off and the water shield off so i put that off. didnt worry about doing the air filter yet no need to when i havent got the tune up yet. and the radio i didnt do because i didnt know which wires to set to which one. i looked for a diagram of which ones are what but still couldnt fine one.

[pendemic]

forgot to mention motor and trans are at 157k now, and i only hear the knocking sound when over drive is off.

[Blue)(Fusion]

Sounds like you're serious about getting it up to par quick, fast, and in a hurry!

157k isn't that bad on these engines. They usually last beyond 200k as fleet vehicles (police and taxis). With proper maintenance, the transmission can hold up just as long. The only weak thing on them is the overdrive band but should be okay if it's not slamming 4-3 or 4-2 downshifts on the highway. I know others with 120-130k ex-police cruisers and modifying they're original transmission with the J-mod I mentioned, so they sure can go a while. Remember police often treat them poorly, too.

[pendemic]

so i got everything done EXCEPT for the fuel filter and passenger door lock and my transmission fluid and engine fluids were BURNT! so i got fresh fluids in a a new door lock car starting to look and FEEL a whole lot better. so i want to take out the rear end and tranny to give it a tighter fit and firmer shifting. Would a tranny from a mustang fit? and what type of rear end would you recommend.

Got the factory radio out too and put a clarion dvd player in, shows crisp and clear i had a HD module but i couldnt fit it in there with all the cords in there.

As far as the car before the tune up EVERYTHING was factory and i mean EVERYTHING! even the damn oil filter. i got a pcv valve too and the startling and stalling from cold starting has stopped since the tune up

[Blue)(Fusion]

There's no way the oil filter was factory. That thing would be clogged up after 10k. And I don't know what kind you got but the Motorcraft FL-820S is the best choice for these engines. They have the anti-drain-back valve to keep oil in the top half of the engine so it's not dry on a cold start. It's also one of the cheapest. I use Motorcraft 5W-20 or 5W-30, whatever is available - Walmart has 5.25 quart jugs for $11-12.

Regarding the transmission, Mustangs use the same transmission. Their valve bodies might be slightly different for firmer shifts, but if that's the case, the J-mod will give you even firmer shifts on your original valve body. They also have a different tune for higher RPM shifts in their PCM. Only way to change that is to get a custom tune to install on your PCM which will run you a few hundred bucks. The J-mod will be less work and cheaper than getting a different transmission with a better outcome as long as the transmission is still in a reasonable condition (clutches aren't worn out, and yours don't seem to be). You just have to buy one or two drill bits, snap-ring pliers, inch-pound torque wrench, two new separator plate gaskets which are at the dealer for $2/each, the filter, and 10 quarts of Mercon V;14 quarts if you drain the torque converter, too.

You can open up the rear end and flush the fluid and check around. If there's any excessive metal shavings, you might have to consider replacing parts, although these 8.8" rear ends generally run for the life of the car and then some. If anything is going to go bad in the rear end, it will be hub seals as these are known to sometimes start leaking.

If you do need to tighten up the drive train, check the U-joints for excess play. If you want to upgrade to a higher gear from the stock 2.73s, you can usually find 3.27s off of junkyard police interceptors. 3.55, 3.73, and 4.10s are also available for the Ford 8.8". You can also get a Trac-Loc if you wanted a limited slip diff. I'm saving up for the trac-loc as my next modification and possibly 3.27s.

[pendemic]

nice! i just want the pull to be nice and firm.

when i crank the car in the morning it stalls and dies still, and when i let it warm up i have to barely give it gas in order for it to drive if i give it to much it doesnt do anything at all. whats the deal with that? i also need to replace the pcv valve still i bought a new one and lost it. and this door panel is pissing me off because its cracked. and it fumbles everywhere. id rather have engine issues then the cosmetic ones im having now lol.

[pendemic]

what do you think about this ad..... http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1578384433.html

[Blue)(Fusion]

It doesn't look to bad. But almost 200k is alot of miles. You could spend that much money on a 2002+ CVPI with under 150k probably.

But regarding your door panel, I'm sorry I don't know alot about body repair. But the engine may be stalling for a few reasons:
Dirty/bad MAF sensor
Bad fuel pressure (weak pump or clogged filter, not sure if you replaced the filter yet)
Spark timing - may be retarded out of specs

I think the fuel delivery is the more likely problem. If you go heavy on the throttle, the fuel can't keep up to the air and becomes lean and doesn't fire correctly. Change the filter if you haven't done so yet.

[pendemic]

WILL DO! ran to autozone and got one for 10.99 and need to find someone to put it on. i got new spark plugs but they didnt get spaced properly im thinking. will update when it gets done. 200k is a lot once i think about it, i wonder if i can get them to go down to 1k.