2.3 cranks but wont start sometimes

[radiateu2]

My 1993 mustang with a 4 banger usually starts but occasional she will crank but wont start changed the fuel filter. Admittedly I am a Chevy guy but I need to make this car safe and sound for my daughter. Anyone have a good place to start. Oh when it cranks and doesnt start the ignition coils dont fire. Could this be from a no refernce signal pulse from the injectors due to low fuel pressure. Thanks for any help you can give

[HiFlow5 0]

Could also be the TFI module on the distributor.

[StangNut86]

my 86 currently has a 4-banger, but it's carb'd. it cranks all day, but doesn't fire. the reason? a combination of blown head gasket and bad rings, as my compression and leakage tests clearly show. hopefully you don't have such a bad problem. best of luck.

[sabre]

I believe you have the Dual Plug DIS ignition system on your 2.3L mustang, which means it has four spark plugs on the passenger side of the motor(like a typical 4 banger) and ANOTHER four spark plugs on the driver's side. With a running engine, all spark plugs are operational. During engine cranking however, only the pass. side plugs will spark, the driver's side is shut down, so it's critical that you checked for spark on one of the pass. side plugs or you could misdiagnose your no-start. Fuel pumps and crank sensors are the most common causes of "will crank/won't start" symtoms and a simple way to test the crank sensor is to observe the "check engine light". The next time the car acts up, turn the key to the ON position (your not cranking the engine but the dash lights are on) the "CEL" should be lit. Now turn the key to the crank position and within one second of cranking the CEL should go out. If it it stays lit while cranking, it means the engine computer did not receive a signal from the crank sensor. While the computer and wiring can be bad, it's usually the crank sensor that goes south. As for testing the fuel pump, again, the next time the car acts up, check for fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail. There is a "tire valve"-like piece at the rear of the injector rail, it may still have the factory black plastic cap on it, unscrew that cap and have someone turn the key to the ON position while you slightly depress the pin on that valve, a strong one-second shot of fuel should squirt from the valve. If you get none or very little fuel, go to the rear bumper, lay on your back, and look at the rear edge of the fuel tank, there should be an electrical connector clipped onto the tank that has the power and ground circuits for the pump. Use a test light to verify that power/ground are present up to that point and if they are then a fuel pump replacement is in the cards. Post up if you need more help, Nick.

[glowstang93]

Just a thought; My 92 would always start, but sometimes it made you wonder. It was the starter solenoid located on the drivers side fender under the plastic cover directly to the rear of the battery before you get to the strut tower. Good luck, I;m sure your daughter will enjoy her car.