Tachometer Bouncing all Over

[Searles Lewis]

M Tach today went all over the place, bouncing around, I had My Honey floor it. Still shows the CEL. No surging sound, or anything, just the Tach. Any ideas?

[olopezm]

I would say either a problem with the turbine Speed sensor or the CKP (crankshaft position sensor).

Oscar.

[Searles Lewis]

Originally Posted by olopezm

I would say either a problem with the turbine Speed sensor or the CKP (crankshaft position sensor).

Oscar.

Hi, it's me again. Wanted to give an update to y'all, and point this question especially to olopezm.

All the instrument panel is now going berserk. It never affects performance at all. I had a friend clear the trouble code, it still says 0401, but after explaining the entire thing to him, he says he suspected my Step-son pulled on the "pigtail" on the back of the plenum, and he is right-he did do that, and he said he thinks it's one of two things, if not both.

1. Some electrical connection with blades has become separated within the pigtail, and is causing this to happen, and/or
2. One of the relays is malfunctioning.

All 4 gauges on the instrument panel flutter back and forth. My Ford windstar manual states fuses 9, 10, and 16.

So, is this a right diagnosis? Anyone know which relay in the front driver's side box would cover these? The relay box under the hood?

[olopezm]

Hi,

I'm sorry I have no idea which pigtail you're talking about (???).

P0401 (EGR system) should have nothing to do with with electrical connections unless the DPFE sensor connector (at the front of the engine) is damaged.

I remember reading once that the BPS (Brake Pressure Switch), which is a recall item, would leak and could cause the instrument cluster to go crazy. Has this recall been performed in your van?. The BPS should have an in line fuse running to it and connections should be clean, if you see any fluid then you need to replace the BPS and install the new harness (if not installed).

If not, then I would check your alternator (if you haven't) because a bad internal diode can cause lots of electrical gremlins as well.

Oscar.

[wiswind]

Verify the battery connections....including the connections down by the starter (prone to corrosion).
Then check/monitor the voltage at the battery.....it should be steady.
If the voltage at the battery is NOT steady, or is low, then you have a electrical supply issue......battery/alternator would be suspect.

If the voltage at the battery is solid.....then check the voltage someplace else......like one of the power outlets to verify that it is very close to what you measured at the battery.....and that it is ALSO very steady....
If the voltage is fine at the battery, but is low or bouncing around when you check it elsewhere, the problem is most likely a connection issue.

My point here is that if the whole instrument cluster is acting up, then the first place to start checking is the battery....then work out....verifying the stability of the power source.

[Searles Lewis]

Originally Posted by wiswind

Verify the battery connections....including the connections down by the starter (prone to corrosion).
Then check/monitor the voltage at the battery.....it should be steady.
If the voltage at the battery is NOT steady, or is low, then you have a electrical supply issue......battery/alternator would be suspect.

If the voltage at the battery is solid.....then check the voltage someplace else......like one of the power outlets to verify that it is very close to what you measured at the battery.....and that it is ALSO very steady....
If the voltage is fine at the battery, but is low or bouncing around when you check it elsewhere, the problem is most likely a connection issue.

My point here is that if the whole instrument cluster is acting up, then the first place to start checking is the battery....then work out....verifying the stability of the power source.

Okay, new crap. It has had hard problems starting some mornings. It makes the ka-ka-ka-ka sound, never starts up with the vroom.

Sunday nite, My honey was tired, refused to stop and get gas. We woke up, intending to go get some right away, and now it just makes the sound, and does not start. #5 spark plug wire ,when disconnected, and held next to the metal front side when starting, does not spark.

I tried checking the fuel rail schrader test valve, it squirted gas on my hand before stopping. We put a gallon in with STP, still nothing. Jumped the battery, still no starting. I'm guessing the coil pack, which is brand new as of 3/2/2012, is hosed. Does that sound right to you guys? I was able to get an electrical tester and a replacement coil pack fro mautozone already.

It is already well over 90 degrees, I do not take heat well, have been unable to work out to relieve stress. Had to take 2 caffeine pills to wake up this morning. I'd liek to resolve this quickly.

The pigtail I was referring to, if the wiring harness that clips to the back of the plenum in tow places. There does not seem to be any corrosion from the water leakage. I have the pdf of the Ford windstar 2000 manual, and the location of the fuses and relays underneath the hood. It bears no relation to the inside of the cover for it, which is worthless, and is not even remotely accurate in the least. The relay covering the ignition coil pack is number 20.

Sheesh.

Hottest day of the year, no clouds in the sky.

BTW autozone guy helped me check the alternator connections, they are fine. I will check again. I wish I knew someone nearby I could trust to check it, too.

The wiring harness had a connection inside of it that had blades in it ,that have separated twice. I guess I need to take off the cowling, then check the wiring harness thing, and also the #20 relay. It seems to be covered with black plastic, so I have no idea what to do with it once it is out ,other than to switch it with the one next to it, to see if it starts up after that.

Sheesh, friggin' step-kid. We had to correct the library again about his not living with us anymore, and the fact he kept running up bills and having them sent to us, despite his being an adult. We keep returning his mail, next time I will write "RTS-Deceased", just to be hopeful.

Any clues? I read over and over about the new chinese made coil packs having to be replaced. Anything else you know of that would cause the electricity to run, but not thru the spark plug boot?

[olopezm]

I'm sorry to hear all that buddy.

Is the #5 spark plug the one not firing only? Check other spark plug to see if it¡s firing or not. If it is the only one, then the spark plug wires or the coil pack could be the problem. If there are other not firing, you might have a problem with the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS), which is also seems to be a common problem with our windstars. I don't know the exact location, but should be to the front of the steering pump.

This sensor indicates the PCM what's the position of the pistons and at the same time the PCM fires both the injectors and spark plugs. Another test would be to remove one of the injector connectors and check for 12 volts across both terminals while cranking. If there is voltage, then the sensor is fine.

This might be a VERY LONG SHOT but try disconnecting the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and see if the van starts. If it's bad or the wiring is damaged, it can make the PCM "think" the floor is all the way to the floor and that will cause it not to fire the injectors but only the spark plugs. This is intended to clear any flooding in the cylinders. It happened to my Pontiac that it would have some problems starting during cold starts and the problem turned out to be a bad TPS; I found out as soon as I disconnected it and started the engine.

I still don't know which pigtail you're referring to, I'm very sorry, but if it is by the steering pump, there is a good chance that's the CKPS harness. Is there any chance you could upload a picture of it?.

Oscar.

[Searles Lewis]

Originally Posted by olopezm

I'm sorry to hear all that buddy.

Is the #5 spark plug the one not firing only? Check other spark plug to see if it¡s firing or not. If it is the only one, then the spark plug wires or the coil pack could be the problem. If there are other not firing, you might have a problem with the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS), which is also seems to be a common problem with our windstars.

Dear Oscar,

You were 100% right! It refused to start, and the cps sensor was dead-was not even magnetized i nthe car. The new one was. We had taken a electronic thing to the dump, and thy are not supposed to accept lanl waste, but are letting it in from one nuke site, and so have a sensor that blasts the car when it goes on the scale, to check for it, and we found out this has happened to a lot of people, always blowing the magnet. That stopped the car from starting since Monday morning until yesterday afternoon. The instrument dials are all on the same electrical line ,so if one goes, they all can, despite only one sensor being bad. I read the schematics in the Haynes book.

Today, the CEL light came back on. But, our gas mileage is fine. It says Insufficient EGR Flow, we are lost as to what is wrong. The mileage is back up, and so is the performance. Just the one lone CEL light, which came on just 30 minutes ago.

Anyone have a clue? I have gone along the entire egr thing, no noticeable problems. The CEL light came on when we went over the dump sensor. The cps we have is not the correct one for it, as that one has a different set of hole sizes and the one that looks and fits for our car is a mustang one. Could that do it?

Thanks again, Oscar M. Lopez!

[olopezm]

Hi Lewis,

I'm glad you found out what the problem was. You can check the following webpage, in which you can write your vehicle's VIN to ensure proper fit or replacement parts, you'll be able to see some diagrams and part numbers as well.

http://www.fordparts.com/Default.aspx

The EGR thing, make sure the green hose on top of the EGR valve is OK at the entire lenght, from the valve towards the rear of the upper intake manifold. When I had a problem with mine (can't remember the exact code) the solution was to reconnect such hose to the back of the manifold.

Another possibility is a faulty DPFE sensor, located at the front of the engine compartment (you'll see two hoses running from the exhaust manifold towards the sensor). This sensor is known for being faulty in many Ford vehicles.

Oscar.