Supply List Help

[SOLOITR2001]

I read the tutorials and still had some questions. I am going to the hobby store today and want to pick up some supplies to get started with my Fujimi 1/24 Integra Type R. I dont have anything yet so I need some help. I will be picking up an exacto knife and really thin paint brushes.

I ordered from Hiroboy.com my Honda/Acura Long Beach Blue Pearl paint (B-510P) and a set of Metal Honda Emblems. So while I am waiting for that to get here I still need some primer and glue before the final paint is needed.

I tried to figure out what kind of glue to get and wasnt to sure. I saw on Hiroboy.com a Glue N Glaze for clear parts that I know I would use on the headlights and tail lights but wasnt 100% sure about using it on the rest of the build.

And lastly if anyone has a set of 1/24 Volk TE37 17" and 18" (like to have both sets) please hit me up if selling them or if you can make me a copy of them. They are sold out everywhere.

Thanks everyone for your time and info.

[drunken monkey]

From the FAQS.

Originally Posted by willimo

Adhesives:
· Plastic cement. This is a chemical solvent used to attach plastic parts to each other. It melts the surface of the two parts at the seam, and as it sets and cures, the plastic is joined as if it were one part. The type in a toothpaste-type tube is rubbish, get the thin, clear kind in a bottle and use the brush in the cap to apply it.
· Superglue. Some small parts, or parts that do not stay on their own long enough for cement to set, may be attached with superglue instead of cement. Be warned – superglue joints are nowhere near as strong as a cured cement joint, and super glue vapors tend to “fog” parts, so use as little as possible, and only if you must. Remember, a tiny bit goes a long way, “a little dab’ll do ya.” You will find the type available at the hobby shop will be superior to the type at the drug store.
· White glue. White glue, or any clear-drying glue (there are some hobby specific types that dry super duper clear) is useful when attaching clear parts like headlight lenses and so forth. Most people have this around the house.

Plastic cement.
This is your common use bonding agent for plastic kits.
As the faq describes, what it does is melt the kit plastic so that the two parts bond. That is why I am careful not to call it glue because it does more than that.
What members here tend to use is either Tamiya's Cement (or Extra Thin Cement) or Revell's Contacta Professional and a few of use use a "proper" chemical solvent that some modelling/sculpture stores sell.
I myself use something called Plastic Weld which is essentially dichloromethane in a bottle.

Superglue.
What I use is Zap-O Odorless Pacer.
It is a gel type and is relatively slow set depending on how much you apply.

White Glue.
This is pretty much what you mentioned for use on clear parts.
I use Formula '560' Canopy Glue.

[SOLOITR2001]

Nice. Thanks for that info. Now for the primer. I went to the local craft store and picked up some Testors Spray Enamel 1237 Flat Gray Primer. I bought as I said from Hiroboy.com the Honda/Acura match paint. I wasnt 100% sure if it would be ok to use for that base coat so I thought I would ask before using it.

And other question is, do you guys sand the cars down right out of the box before primer or no? Thanks again for all the help and info.

[klutz_100]

Please take this question the right way but you do have an airbrush, right?

It's just that some of your Qs are for rather basic stuff and it entered my mind that maybe you weren't aware that Hiroboy paints are for airbrush use only.

If I am barking up the wrong tree here, it's done in good faith

[SOLOITR2001]

Oh no big deal. I have access to a airbrush from a buddy of mine. And yes I know that the paint from Hiroboy is for airbrush use. I just wanted to get all the primer stuff done so when the paint gets here we can tackle it with the airbrush.

[klutz_100]

Good-O
In that case, enjoy!

[drunken monkey]

Originally Posted by SOLOITR2001

And other question is, do you guys sand the cars down right out of the box before primer or no? Thanks again for all the help and info.

again, from the FAQs.

Originally Posted by primera man

Sanding

Make sure you sand the car well...removing molding lines etc. Start with 600, then 800 then 1000 and finish off the whole car with 1200 grit paper. The mold lines are very small raised lines that usually run along the side of the roof line, down each pillar, along the edge of the hood/boot and carry on down though the lights and bumpers.

This is the very first thing you do to all car bodies
Due the nature of the manufacturing process, there will always be mold lines on the body that you do not want.
It also helps primer to adhere to the body better but remember, the smoother and more even the sanding the better the primer will be on it and the smoother and more even the primer, the better the paint will be on it.


As for your primer question... never used anything other than automotive and Tamiya sprays so not much help I'm afraid.

[rsxse240]

DON'T USE TESTOR'S PRIMER!!!!! It isn't a true "primer" in that all it does is make your craft project all one color so as to avoid blotchy looking paint. It does NOT "prime" your car for anything but acrylic and TESTOR'S ONLY paint. not to mention, it's an enamel base and will take for EVER to dry and gas out. it's basically gray paint...and it isn't even really a flat color when it's dry. go figure.

I agree with the previous statement in that only automotive primers and those from tamiya, MR. Color, and other "REAL" paint companies should be used. I've had limited success with Krylon and other store brand primers, but they too are an enamel based flat paint used to seal and make a surface all one color.

[SOLOITR2001]

Well then, I guess I will be taking back the Testors Fake Primer than. LOL. Thanks for the info. It really helps.