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  #16  
Old 03-21-2003, 07:35 AM
seth 90DX/ZC seth 90DX/ZC is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by sastanley
Unfortunately dude..that is half the issue...D-series motors rotate counter-clockwise...the bolts only get tighter as we drive the car - I think that is why they are so difficult to get apart
NO! Take it off just like you would take off any other bolt! Left man go left~! Also you might want to try a pully puller after you get the bolt out. It took me 3 hours to get mine off the ZC, 3 hours with a 500lb impact wrench and I have a compressor that puts out more than that.... Sooo, good luck man.
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  #17  
Old 03-21-2003, 09:31 AM
4-Door Flunky 4-Door Flunky is offline
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You gotta try everything. First, spray some penetrating fluid around there, and give it a few minutes to soak in. Even WD-40 will work. The molecules of the bolt and the surrounding material have interlocked, and that'll help ease things.
Now, this next technique is called, "Warming it up". That means beat it with a hammer. You don't want to screw up the bolt where your socket won't work anymore. You do want to beat on it, and hard, using something like a half-inch extension. This beating process will help stop that interlocking process.
There's one more technique, requiring extreme care, and that's heating it up with the torch, but seriously, don't burn up your car or yourself.
Then try the 8-foot cheater pipe over your ratchet with three friends standing on it. You should be able to get a socket onto the bolt, and have an extension going into it, sticking out of that little hole in the plastic piece in the wheel well. You may need to get a piece of wood just the perfect length to stick underneath the head of the ratchet, to keep it from falling off and bending the ears off the nut while you're standing on it.
If none of that works, take it to a shop. I do recommend using a Snap-On socket and ratchet. Or at least a Craftsman, so if it breaks, you can replace it. Try to use a 6-point, so you don't ruin that bolt.
Flunky
PS-I spent three days on one of these on a Mazda 626. I had to get the 10-foot cheater pipe, and then I dangled from it, yanking my whole body up and done. Neighbors loved it.
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  #18  
Old 03-21-2003, 01:23 PM
ev0lution7 ev0lution7 is offline
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Talking

well last night about 2am we got it off we stuck the breaker bar on it with a cheater bar and hit the starter a few times and then we stuck the impact on it and BLAM it came right off in like 2 sec then everything went pretty smooth from there... i got my fan working (wires were cut) then i put some water in and blam fan works and holds water and it runs like a champ only NO NO i did was i put the same OLD ass Timming belt back on but then again this is my temp motor (DPFI) for my DOHC ZC that will kick ass hopefully i will have it in in the next month
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Crxce- theoretically if u laid a starter on a table and hooked up the wires would it run???

BLU CIVIC- no...it doesn't have any legs
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