Bolt On Mods To Beat A 5.0 Mustange GT?

[cero]

Originally Posted by vtec_lude

Yes i know what you mean, i am really trying to stay away from that NOS, so if it comes down to it then i may go for it, but is there anything you can think of that will keep me N/A, and that will give me some hp without rebuilding my head too much..i am really iffy about this cam idea, because it takes LOST O $$$ which doesnt grow on trees...so if you experienced luders could help me that would be great...look above at what i have..thanks

vtec_lude, you seem to want information, but, you don't listen to the people giving it to you.
J_Spec_NiTeMaRe had the best answer here. Driving skill is what makes you quick. If you can't improve your driving skills, then improving your car is only going to help so much. A 'small' dry shot of nitrous is probably going to be less detrimental to the longterm engine strength than a cam is, simply because it won't always be stressing your engine unnecessarily. I wouldn't generally recommend a cam swap unless you are going to build the head. on top of that, most cams are tuned to work with each other. if you change the intake cam, and not the exhaust cam, or vice-versa, your overlap is going to be completely off.
Perhaps you should consider investing your money into going to the track and perfecting your launch techniques, and getting your shiftpoints exact, while lowering your shift times. I've seen drivers take as much as 2 seconds off their e/t, by practicing; no mods whatsoever to their cars. Get to know your car, THEN start modifying it.
Just my $ .02

[dbebesi]

thank you cero

[Matrix_Blue]

When u r runnin you probably do like i used to do and rag the shit out of it til the redline then shift....not a good idea you will blow it up. I have a spec book here that says if you have a h22a1 you need to shift at 6800 rpm to acheive the max hp of 190 and if it is an h23 shift at 5800 to get 160 hp

[SiGNAL748]

Originally Posted by Matrix_Blue

When u r runnin you probably do like i used to do and rag the shit out of it til the redline then shift....not a good idea you will blow it up. I have a spec book here that says if you have a h22a1 you need to shift at 6800 rpm to acheive the max hp of 190 and if it is an h23 shift at 5800 to get 160 hp

does shifting at 6800rpm keep you above 5200rpm in the next gear?

if not, he'll be falling out of vtec. in turn being slower than if he shifted at 7400rpm(redline).

[lazysmurff]

just to throw in my bit of knowledge. the best way to take a stock (im assuming) 5.0 in a vtech lude with what you have and staying NA as you seem adimant about doing is to, as several people have said, learn to drag. unfortunatly, its not just a pedal mash and go. i can back up what these guys are saying. i went from 10.9's to 10.4's (eigth mile, and a 3rd gen 2.1) in just one week of working on my launch and shifting.

second....bore the throttle body, then get headwork done. without going forced induction, its really all you have left. a basic port and polish...and if you never wanna go forced induction, go ahead and get it shaved to raise the compression ratio, a five angle valve job, etc etc etc.

a racing fuel pump might also make a difference

the throttle body should be between 150-200 bucks...take it out yourself and it will probably be cheaper.

the rest is hella expensive.

good luck

[redleaf786]

okey well i think u should get some new pistons, some beafed up cams, stronger rods, and just build up the head... u can do a lot to the vtec head, unleash its NA power fuck all the turbos and nitros, but if u wanna go FI get a supercharger, with like 8psi boost per gear and the vtec hitten at the 4800 rpm ull destroy the stang, but i think u should just put up the compression beaf up the pistons and cams, and build up the head.. all u nead bud

[SiGNAL748]

skunk2 stage 2 cams + type-s 11:1 pistons = teh win

[KrNxRaCer00]

month old thread w/ out him even replying...

closed.