Windstar trans- any techs> know if

[wiswind]

I would replace any "normal wear" items around the area that you have apart.
I would also put a new in-pan filter in......it is the "felt" type, not just a screen.
The OEM pan gasket is re-usable and of very good quality.
I also recommend that you install a magnefine filter in the cooler RETURN line, the one that fluid flows INTO the transmission through.

You might give my transmission fluid exchange series of pictures a look (the link in my signature will take you to my windstar pictures).
In there, I show detail about how the gasket on the neck of the in-pan filter sticks up in the transmission......

When the transmission seriously acted up in my '96, back in about 2001 with about 100K miles on it......I did a LOT of reading, which is when I found out about online forums.
From many hours of reading, and feeling that I would like to keep my vehicle, I had my local FORD dealership install a FORD remanufactured transmission.
I got another 9 years out of the vehicle and over 120K miles on the replacement transmission before I sold the vehicle last spring.
I can certainly hear you on a shop being reluctant to do much repair and have the risk of a return for another problem in the unit.
Some of those shops that offer "rebuilt" transmissions at 1/2 of the cost of the FORD unit only replace what is defective.
My reading back when I was in the market for a replacement found me a LOT of unhappy customers of the cheap way out.
FORD replaces normal wear items and also makes updates as appropriate (1995 was the WORST year for windstar transmissions, and they were improved a number of times after that).

FORD issued a couple of TSB's that indicate that a major cause for come backs on transmission replacements is junk that has become lodged in the transmission cooler(s), located inside the radiator and (for vehicles with auxillary coolers) in front of the radiator.
This junk then flows back into the transmission causing the replacment unit to fail.
THIS is the reason that I recommend a magnefine filter in the return line from the cooler(s).
Also, the magnefine filters to a nominal particle size of around 30 microns, where the best of the best in-pan filters go down to around 80 microns.
Clean fluid is critical in keeping those solenoids in good shape.

[03lxblue]

UPDATE!!!!
Well today I started to put it back together with the reman ford torque converter.
Total of 13 hours from when I took it apart till tonight when I drove it!!
So recap, torque converter splines did strip out, change converter , seal,filter and refill unit total cost was $370.00 Trans shifts great so I will be keeping it for a while!! Thanks to those on here for their input it was a big help.

[kevink1955]

That's great

Can you give us a quick writeup on how you did it.

How did you hang the engine while you removed the trans
Did you drop the entire cradle or just 1 end
Did you pull the trans out from under the vehicle or just down enough to swap the converter

Any thing else that would help someone else doing the same job

[03lxblue]

I did drop the cradle out. I left the axles in the trans and pulled them out of the spindles. I also unbolted the srtuts and took them right out so I could have more room to slide trans out. when I did this I unpluged the ABS sensors at the frame since pulling them out of spindle leads to breakage. I unbolted brake calipers and wire tied them out of the way. I used a engine hoist to support motor using a 2 inch 3000 lb Car hold down strap around oil pan and not touching exhaust manifolds so they would not crack.
Worst parts to do... Steering rack nuts frozen, sway bar mounts frozen but I only took 2 bolts out on driver side and 1 on pass side just enough to get to rack nuts.
And the worst part was putting it back in, Aligning the trans with the block must be perfect since not much play in converter studs and the block dowel pins Almost 2 hrs. 2 floor jacks with a piece of 3/4 plywood 12" wide to steady trans.

Good luck if I can help more just ask.. Todd

[kevink1955]

Thanks, just what I was looking for. I hope mine never goes but it's good to know how to do it if it does. The strap around the engine is a great idea as is leaving the shafts in the trans.

Hope to keep mine going another 2 or 3 years, the spline striping out without any warning does scare me. Nothing worse than being far from home and having troubles that you know you could fix if you had your shop and tools.

Had a trans problem a few years back, was 900 miles from home and it felt like it was sliping in and out of OD even if it was not in OD. The tach would jump up about 100RPM and settle back to normal then repeat about 15 seconds later. Was sure I was done and would be junking it out of state and flying home.

As a last resort I purchased 12 quarts of Mercon V a gas container and some hose. Did the cooler line flush in the motel parking lot and it cured it. I now do it once a year, reminds me it's due to be done this month.

Thanks again, hope it's the last time you get to see the bottom of the van for a while.