Low Heat/Gurgling Noise Behind Glove Box

[brian97ls]

Hello All,

I have been searching and reading through the forums for about the last hour and although there are a ton of 97 blazer 4X4 heat issues none seem to be exactly what my problem is so here goes:

Initial Problem: Cold air blowing out when heat was on.

I recently just got my system flushed and then backflashed twice within a month actually to see if that helped my heat issue. It did initially but heat did not last very long....I think first day after getting blazer back heat was ok....then ever since then I noticed the heat just wasn't what it should be. Took it back to mechanic w/ same results. He did say my system was pretty clogged up and that the flushing should help but unfortunately it did not. He thought maybe the heating core was going bad....So frustrated with the result and freezing my ass off in Erie, PA on my daily commute, I wanted to exhaust ever possible thing before replacing the core. So here is what I can tell you:

Car takes awhile to heat up 15-25 minutes at idle....will warm up right around 140-160 and then two ticks below 210 when I get moving. Car will blow warm air for about 10-15min and then air slowly gets cooler. Along with that I hear a gurgling noise behind the glove box once I accelerate for the first time. Gurgling sometimes goes away and others it remains. I'm not sure if the two issues are related but I just would like to get some heat in my blazer.

Was considering replacing thermostat to start with and I read on the forums to try a new radiator cap for the gurgling issue. Both are cheap places to start, so if anyone has any thoughts I'd greatly appreciate it. thanks.

[laxman21]

Gurgling noise is air in the heater core.


Go here.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=469926

[brian97ls]

Update.

Seem to have rid the gurgling noise with the supplied link----thank you. Also replaced the tstat but same issues....Heat for about 10 minutes then slowly goes cold again???? Checked the two lines going into fire wall and both seem almost too hot to touch(meaning heating core is working?) Not sure where to go from here and the weather keeps getting colder!

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by brian97ls

Update.

Seem to have rid the gurgling noise with the supplied link----thank you. Also replaced the tstat but same issues....Heat for about 10 minutes then slowly goes cold again???? Checked the two lines going into fire wall and both seem almost too hot to touch(meaning heating core is working?) Not sure where to go from here and the weather keeps getting colder!

If heater core is flowing good one hose should be cooler than other.

Double check heater core for restriction.
Pull return hose and see if it has good coolant flow out of it.
On a part clogged heater core I have reversered hosed and let it flow backwards to help flush it out.
Also make sure engine heat/stat is holding good tempt on the road.

[brian97ls]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

If heater core is flowing good one hose should be cooler than other.

Double check heater core for restriction.
Pull return hose and see if it has good coolant flow out of it.
On a part clogged heater core I have reversered hosed and let it flow backwards to help flush it out.
Also make sure engine heat/stat is holding good tempt on the road.

I plan on rechecking this this weekend.....One question is it better to check the heater core right at the firewall where the two hoses come out or trace those to where the connect to engine??? Also (newbie question) is the return hose the one on the right or left? Thanks.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by brian97ls

I plan on rechecking this this weekend.....One question is it better to check the heater core right at the firewall where the two hoses come out or trace those to where the connect to engine??? Also (newbie question) is the return hose the one on the right or left? Thanks.

Return hose will be the one with coolant coming out of heater core and usually goes to water pump.

The pressure or heater core in hose is usually hooked to top of intake and should have coolant flowing out of engine into heater core.

Can be left or right.
Trace the back to engine.

I alway pull hose where is is easy to get to.

I pull the return hose and stick it is rad or coolant tank and watch flow with engine running.
Let us know how it goes.

[brian97ls]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Return hose will be the one with coolant coming out of heater core and usually goes to water pump.

The pressure or heater core in hose is usually hooked to top of intake and should have coolant flowing out of engine into heater core.

Can be left or right.
Trace the back to engine.

I alway pull hose where is is easy to get to.

I pull the return hose and stick it is rad or coolant tank and watch flow with engine running.
Let us know how it goes.

UPDATE: Flushed out the core on Sat. orange little crystals (harden dex-cool I presume) can out but I had clear water flowing from the ends of both tubes by the time I was done. Put her all back together, topped off my fluids and still not very warm at all. What still confuses me is my temp gauge.....Even with new thermostat it doesn't get anywhere near 190-200 degrees unless I keep accelerate really fast but then immediately dips done to around 160-170.....unless this is normal but I never remember the cars normal operating temp. being that low. Unfortunately the heating issue is now the least of my problems....after X-mas shopping my last night the car will not shift into reverse anymore....it will only go into drive

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by brian97ls

UPDATE: Flushed out the core on Sat. orange little crystals (harden dex-cool I presume) can out but I had clear water flowing from the ends of both tubes by the time I was done. Put her all back together, topped off my fluids and still not very warm at all. What still confuses me is my temp gauge.....Even with new thermostat it doesn't get anywhere near 190-200 degrees unless I keep accelerate really fast but then immediately dips done to around 160-170.....unless this is normal but I never remember the cars normal operating temp. being that low. Unfortunately the heating issue is now the least of my problems....after X-mas shopping my last night the car will not shift into reverse anymore....it will only go into drive

Sorry to hear your bad news.
Reverse gone is bad news.

Have you checked the fluid level engine hot running in park.

If fluid level good and reverse gone it is internal damage and about time to trade it off or rebuild or find a good used transmission.

[brian97ls]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Sorry to hear your bad news.
Reverse gone is bad news.

Have you checked the fluid level engine hot running in park.

If fluid level good and reverse gone it is internal damage and about time to trade it off or rebuild or find a good used transmission.

To be honest with you no, but only because I checked the fluid level....a couple of weeks ago and it was ok after I stored the boat away for the winter.....checked underneath and didn't see any leaks as well.....yeah not good.....

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by brian97ls

To be honest with you no, but only because I checked the fluid level....a couple of weeks ago and it was ok after I stored the boat away for the winter.....checked underneath and didn't see any leaks as well.....yeah not good.....

Confirm good fluid level first.

They can spring a leak and dump fluid on the road and lower fluid level.
Low fluid will knok out reverse first and then other gears.
Hollidays is a bad time for heat or transmission to blow.
How big is the boat you been pulling?
Have you been towing it in overdrive?
Good Luck on how it goes.

[brian97ls]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Confirm good fluid level first.

They can spring a leak and dump fluid on the road and lower fluid level.
Low fluid will knok out reverse first and then other gears.
Hollidays is a bad time for heat or transmission to blow.
How big is the boat you been pulling?
Have you been towing it in overdrive?
Good Luck on how it goes.

It is a 20ft. boat....No, I have not been towing in overdrive.....should I have been???? Also if the fluid is low, could just refilling it solve the problem?

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by brian97ls

It is a 20ft. boat....No, I have not been towing in overdrive.....should I have been???? Also if the fluid is low, could just refilling it solve the problem?

Big load is best towed in just drive and best to use extra HD transmission oil cooler.
Can not say on low fluid But.
If fluid is low fill her up and see what it does.
On your heating problem confirm that engine is up at 195 degrees operating tempt.
Use a digital thermometer on engine.
And feel both heater hose for hot to touch.
In should be hotter than out if heater core is flowing good and putting out heat.

[brian97ls]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

Big load is best towed in just drive and best to use extra HD transmission oil cooler.
Can not say on low fluid But.
If fluid is low fill her up and see what it does.
On your heating problem confirm that engine is up at 195 degrees operating tempt.
Use a digital thermometer on engine.
And feel both heater hose for hot to touch.
In should be hotter than out if heater core is flowing good and putting out heat.

UPDATE: Transmission Clutch locked.....need a rebuild. $1100-1200 for the fix....looks like an expensive holiday. Thanks for everybody help...will probably get fixed but still will have heating problem. Double Wammy.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by brian97ls

UPDATE: Transmission Clutch locked.....need a rebuild. $1100-1200 for the fix....looks like an expensive holiday. Thanks for everybody help...will probably get fixed but still will have heating problem. Double Wammy.

Thanks for posting back.
On transmission repair check the repair place out real good.
Beware of chain stores and places that give you a price without tearing it down and checking it out first.
And make sure you get a good written out warranty.

Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.

[laxman21]

Find out who the local .gov uses for their fleet.