Junkies 97 RS Rebuild(1st timer!)

Ok, For anyone viewing, it's a 97 RS obviously, and I will be attempting to remove the engine, rebuild, and re-install. Have plenty of money now thanks to financial aid, so now i'm gonna try to make my first build thread. Wish me luck. :naughty:

Btw, i'll have pictures up tonight(when my gf brings my freakin camera back home) and i'll bring everyone up to speed where i'm at in the process.

Ok, figured out how to get the transmission off thanks to silver, I see what you meant about removing that lower cross member mount so that you can get to those 2 bolts...

I just dont have a 17mm wrench(this is the correct tool for the job right?)...need to run to the store tom. to get that.

I've got some pictures, let me figure out how to upload them properly sized.

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/5553/p1010955y.jpg (http://img87.imageshack.us/i/p1010955y.jpg/)

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/6661/p1010956f.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/p1010956f.jpg/)

Sorry, just playing with imageshack to try and find the right size.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/7766/p1010958h.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/p1010958h.jpg/)
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/2240/p1010959s.jpg (http://img192.imageshack.us/i/p1010959s.jpg/)
http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/9703/p1010960a.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/p1010960a.jpg/)

So far i've removed the following

battery
ic piping
ic
radiator and hoses
down pipe

Next I think I might try to remove the turbo and manifold together, although the bolts for the manifold are giving me a problem getting to...and I can only get an open end wrench on them and mine keep slipping off

After that, I was gonna try to get the trans off, Which i'm guessing I only need to remove the cross member under it, and then the 4 bolts on the bell housing(correct me if i'm wrong please).

My wrench set only goes up to 16mm and the bolts are bigger than that so...gotta buy a few more wrenches....and thats where i'm at right now.

Looking good so far. What kind of rebuild are you doing? Stock?

I already have JE pistons and eagle rods, just gonna keep them if they are not damaged...but umm...i'm not really changing anything for that matter...

The only thing im unsure about is the mounts. Should I purchase just inserts, or whole new mounts? or...?

Also, I noticed the inserts for the front trans mount are like...decrepid...how do I find new ones of those?

Take out the bolts from the trans to the block, dont take out the bellhousings to trans bolts. If you spun a bearing then your probably going to need new rods.

Ok, got the turbo off, and the manifold, and starter. Got a few of the bolts on the trans loose just so I know I can get to them...so no problem there. I took some pictures but the camera died. So when its charged ill post. Tom. I will completely unbolt the trans and move it over, and I guess start unplugging shit.

:naughty:

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/653/p1010961x.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/p1010961x.jpg/)
http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/4882/p1010962u.jpg (http://img64.imageshack.us/i/p1010962u.jpg/)
http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/5590/p1010965.jpg (http://img46.imageshack.us/i/p1010965.jpg/)
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9913/p1010967r.jpg (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/p1010967r.jpg/)

First two photos are obviously the equipment I bought, and the next two photos are me getting that pesky turbocharger and manifold off...

And silver, what do I look for to tell if the rods are bad?

If you spun bearings then you should probably replace then. Im betting you did if you ran it low on oil and it was knockin

Ok. I was hoping to avoid spending another 350 bucks but, oh well. I would ask what a spun bearing looks like, but I suppose i'm about to find out.

Yea you will know when you pull the rod caps off. You may just be able to replace one of them, just have to wait to see the damage on the inside before you will know

$350 on bearings? I got good ones and paid $85 for the whole set

No no...350 for a set of rods lol

Ok, I got the engine out. F*ck man...lol

Now, I will spend tom. cleaning up and getting everything well organized in my work space fromt he mess I made today, and thursday I suppose I will begin tearing the engine down. I gotta admit it all looks really intimidating now..:eek7:

So, when I went to hoist the engine out, I noticed the trans was still connected and wasnt coming off. So I got underneath and pulled out the flywheel bolts and the engine slid right out easily. Was this what I was supposed to do?

Pictures of my adventure up tom. when im well rested.

Oh, and thanks silver, big help!

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8608/p1010972i.jpg (http://img687.imageshack.us/i/p1010972i.jpg/)
http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/6044/p1010974r.jpg (http://img203.imageshack.us/i/p1010974r.jpg/)
http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/7250/p1010979j.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/p1010979j.jpg/)

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/7186/p1010975.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/p1010975.jpg/)
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/9220/p1010980.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/p1010980.jpg/)
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/7995/p1010981q.jpg (http://img693.imageshack.us/i/p1010981q.jpg/)

http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/634/p1010984dk.jpg (http://img19.imageshack.us/i/p1010984dk.jpg/)
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/8523/p1010985f.jpg (http://img693.imageshack.us/i/p1010985f.jpg/)
http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/8154/p1010986b.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/p1010986b.jpg/)

Your still running a modular clutch, yea that was fine to take it off that way. Glad to see you got it out. Getting it back it is probably twice as hard. :)

I'm sure it is.

Question...when I get ready to put it back in, do I do so with the clutch bolted to the flywheel? or do I stick the clutch into the trans and just bolt the flywheel back to it when the engine is back in?

Also, the TOB I noticed just slides right off, so when it goes back on, you just slide it right back on and thats it?

I'm sure it is.

Question...when I get ready to put it back in, do I do so with the clutch bolted to the flywheel? or do I stick the clutch into the trans and just bolt the flywheel back to it when the engine is back in?

Also, the TOB I noticed just slides right off, so when it goes back on, you just slide it right back on and thats it?

TOB is loose. Just make sure it clips on the clutch fork.

I don't know how you got that off with the motor still connected. Weird. It has to be torqued on the crank so you need to get it on before the motor goes in.

I'm just as surprised as you are, lol. So, bolt up the clutch before insertion? Ok, I just got the flywheel off and boy was that fun. Took three of us(I don't have any air tools or anything that make it easy). So I hope the rest of the bolts that come out of this thing are more friendly. Im going to start the tear down process tom. and i'll put up some more photos. This is really fun btw. :iceslolan

Actually the modular clutches are made to be taken off like that, its so you can change clutches without pulling the motor or the tranny, you can just break them apart and slid another clutch in. What you unbolted was a flex plate, not the flywheel. You can put it together either way, which ever is easier for you.

Wait...the big disc with 8 bolts holding it on, and like 70 some odd teeth, wasnt the flywheel? Then wheres the flywheel? Sry that just confused me :eek7:

Thats the flex plate, kinda like auto tranny has a flex plate that bolts to the torque convereter. Its because of the modular clutch setup, the flywheel is what bolts to the flex plate

Ok, ill figure it out next time I look at it lol. I dont understand, so the big disc I took off was the flex plate? And the flywheel is where now? Bc I dont see it...is it inside the block or something? lol

I took the intake off, and also the mount that was attached to the block. Tom night I will take the vc and head off, and get the block onto the stand.

As for the timing belt, water pump, and pulleys, is this ok?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-MITSUBISHI-ECLIPSE-2-0-420A-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a48b5a7acQQitemZ2 50327967660QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcc essories

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/4782/p1010993e.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/p1010993e.jpg/)
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2063/p1010994q.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/p1010994q.jpg/)
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/9568/p1010995f.jpg (http://img144.imageshack.us/i/p1010995f.jpg/)

When I took my car to have the oil changed once they told me my oil filter housing was loose, but not leaking. Here in the pictures, I demonstrate how it can move back and forth. There's a nut inside it where the oil filter screws on, and it was loose when I got the oil filter off...can anybody tell me whats going on here? Is it supposed to do that? do I just need to torque it on really hard or what? I slammed the oil filter once when I hit a pothole, causing the oil filter to rupture. Could this have damaged this filter housing? How could I fix it?

That's an aftermarket oil sandwich adapter. I hate those, like passionate about hating those. That nut needs to be tightened good. Is the O-ring in the adapter still there and good?

Yea tighten the hell out of it and i always put some silicon on the oring to help keep it from leaking

Yeah I don't like it very much either, seems like nothing but problems with it so far. I'll check on the o ring. So, that link I posted witht he pulleys, timing belt, and pump, is that safe to buy?

I have problems with timing belts not being from the dealership, but it's your call. Seems ok, says they use name brands.

For the sandwich is that the feed/return for the turbo or an oil cooler?

Oil cooler feed and return.

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8593/p1010990u.jpg (http://img63.imageshack.us/i/p1010990u.jpg/)

Here's a photo of the port fueler if anybody's interested in how they look/work.

Ok, if im going to remove the head fromt he block, then I need to remove the camshaft correct? Or what do I do first...and do I need to mark the cam sprockets at the top center? I cant seem to find anything about this in the manual...

No, you don't need to remove the cam....and no the cam gears should be marked.

Ok, couple questions.

1)If im going to be taking the head and block completely apart, do I need to mark anything on the cam gears or anything like that?

2)I ran into a problem trying to get the timing belt off(and cam gears, and that plastic cover that covers the cam gears), do I have to pull the crank pulley off first? And if so, do I need to get a special tool to do it?

3)Does that plastic cover need to go back on? I just see where some people leave them off...

It's easier to take the head off with no cams installed. Easier to get to the head bolts and don't need and angled heads or anything

Cam gears are already marked. Only fit on the cams 1 way.

Crank pulley has to come off first. The plastic cover has numerous hidden bolts all over. The pulley will need a special tool. You can always cut the TB since you're not reusing it anyways.

You don't need to put the cover back on, but I would recommend it (even though mine is off). I'm designing a custom metal lower cover for mine. Just think, 1 rock can get in the timing belt by the crank sprocket and screw up your timing/motor.

Ok, which special tool do I need, is it the 3 jaw puller?

I have never worked on a 420a but you shouldnt need any type of puller. Just take the bolt(s) out and yank on it.

I used a crowbar on the first pulley, but destroyed the plastic covering. There's a special tool you should use to pull it. It's a 3-jaw puller. Dont have the part number handy right now.

Ok, I bought a puller, Which then made me wonder how im supposed to get the pulley back on...

Also, Im reading and reading...and can't seem to figure out what im looking for lol. Im just thoroughly confused about something. If I take the cams out(with the cam gears attached) and then proceed to take the head off, and then finally the internals out, when I go to put it all back together, do I just put the internals back together, put the head back on, and just lay the cams right into place? Or is there something i'm missing...like Im confused about the placement of the pistons and everything when I go to put the cams back in...and its making me nervous lol

:uhoh:

Ok, just tried to use the puller, and the crank didnt budge at all, all that happened was the puller chipped the sides of the pulley...guess im gonna need another one of those.
Is there a trick to it? Does the nut in the center of the pulley have anything to do with it?

Boy have I got an interesting story to tell...

So, First of all, We got the pulley off, but only the outer rim of the pulley that the belt touches, the pulley pulled apart, and the center of it is still stuck on the crank. Ill show you pictures below. But thats whats going on with that, still cant get it off and its holding everything up for me.

Next, which is the best part of this post, is that fact that I easily identified the problem when I removed the oil pan. Ill give you a hint, I grabbed the rod to the rights end cap, and was able to shake it back and forth easily...

Pictures coming

http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2529/p1010996g.jpg (http://img40.imageshack.us/i/p1010996g.jpg/)

Here my friend points out the rod cap on the right side, and how it was moving back and forth since there was absolutely no more bearing

Didn't you say there was a nut in the center of the pulley? Did the manual suggest pulling this bolt out to pull the pulley off? One would think this is your problem.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6815/p1010998b.jpg (http://img43.imageshack.us/i/p1010998b.jpg/)

Heres what we found sitting nicely on top(and inside of) the oil pick up

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1284/p1010999l.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/p1010999l.jpg/)

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/2476/p1020002m.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/p1020002m.jpg/)
Here, if you look closely you can see the jagged piece of bearing still stuck on

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/9366/p1020003f.jpg (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/p1020003f.jpg/)

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/5950/p1020004h.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/p1020004h.jpg/)
What we could find of the bearing

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/6407/p1020005z.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/i/p1020005z.jpg/)

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8096/p1020007k.jpg (http://img31.imageshack.us/i/p1020007k.jpg/)

Ok heres whats left of the pulley...and this thing WILL NOT COME OFF. 5 of us, mechanics included, try everything we could....so what could I possibly do that we might not have tried yet? Anybody? I wanna use c4 at this point

[/URL][URL="http://img684.imageshack.us/i/p1020008a.jpg/";]http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3576/p1020008a.jpg (http://img684.imageshack.us/i/p1020008a.jpg/)
As you can see, it didn't budge...after a 300lb friend of mine using the jaw puller and other tools(and heating it, and beating it silly), couldnt turn the puller hard enough to pop it off...

I would soak it with pb blaster all over the point where the shaft meets the pulley. Then I would use a Dead blow hammer or equivalent on the 3 spoke parts of the pulley. Jason or Dave might have some suggestions once they see the pictures.

Ya you used the wrong puller. The one that's supposed to get used attaches to the inside, not the outer. First time I tried that, mine cracked as well.

Spray it with WD40, let it sit, spray again. Take a torch, and heat it up really good and hit it. You can also take a crowbar and wedge it between the pulley and the block, like in that last pic right at the very top, and put some force on it. Turn the crank 1/3 way, crowbar it again, and keep doing it. It should start to move slowly but surely. Once it budges... it'll start sliding right off.

Ok, well since its destroyed, would now be a good time to switch to one of those bomz lightweight pulleys I see advertised? Or is that not a good thing to do? Bc I found a stocker on ebay, which is slightly more expensive than the lightweight one...