WIP: 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”

In the words of Monty Python…and now for something different…..my 2CV “Rock and Roll-Bar”.

Originally this was meant to be a OOB build with detailed engine but while searching the web for reference material for my Tamiya 2CV kit I came across this picture and it for me it kind of summed up this wonderful and iconic little car. It seems that there are hardly any factory fitted 2CVs left in the world! All of them have been cut up, rebuilt, repainted and driven all over the world by their infatuated owners :p I came across pictures of 2CVs on top of the Himalayas, in the middle of the Sahara and on the race track!

I just had to try and recreate this “essence of 2CV”. Since it’s my first venture into kit modification – I wasn’t sure whether or not to post a thread on this because I’d say there’s a greater than 50/50 chance that it’ll bomb but……

My goal:
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7901/rockandrollbar020bb.jpg


I will be trying to scratch build the ingenious suspension system as well as the older style frame seats you can see in the photo and of course the roll bar.

Starting point:
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1206/2cv010yg.jpg

I decided that I will first make the new parts before I start cutting things off the kit and destroying it. First the suspension using aluminum tube, steel rod and lolly pop stick cut into slices. Here are the components and a dry fit test:
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3641/2cv024es.jpg

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/1899/2cv031bm.jpg


Next I made a making tape template of various panels and transferred it to drawing paper fixed to foam board. Nails are used to help shape the brass rod into basic shape:

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9249/2cv044jb.jpg


I want to make the roll bar removable so this is my strategy for fixing it to the body using larger diameter tube (front and rear):

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8184/2cv059vr.jpg

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/3392/2cv069rg.jpg


First test fit. Not too happy with the scale of the roll bar frame. I think I will need to make it again with thinner tube/rod. Also soldering is harder than I thought it would be!! :banghead:

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9874/2cv077dn.jpg

Time to burn my bridges :naughty: . Off come the doors and boot flap. I’ve decided to leave the rear window a) so I have somewhere to fix the roll top roof and b) removing this would mean putty work beyond my skills – this way everything is removed along existing panel lines. I used styrene girder for the upright stays in the door frame.

http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/7223/2cv087hm.jpg


Since I was cutting things off, I decided to try and make “working” sun visors. They were cut off, a hinge made out of bent wire and drilled out styrene rod will be fixed to the body to provide a pivoting point.

http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/8991/2cv092gz.jpg


I did a test drive using masking tape and it works!!!!!! Hurrah

http://img116.imageshack.us/img116/6296/2cv100qy.jpg


Comments/ideas/suggestions and motivation gratefully received.

Thanks for looking!

WoW!!!! I don't have any suggestions. Kill that french car! Good luck with this....looks really funky. Is that a steering rack in the 4th pic?

lol... this is different...

Hi Steven,

wow, a tremendous project !!!!!!!!

I agree with you that the tube of the outer cage are a little bit oversized. Further- compared to the 1:1 car, the cage should be closer to the body.

Great with the nails to bend the rods !!!!!!!!!!!!

the trick to soldering brass rod (or any metal, besides aluminum) is heat. you must get that brass really super hot then let IT melt the solder, not the soldering iron. and remember to use some soldering rosin, it helps to flow the solder onto the surface you are joining. and it just takes a VERY little rosin (a slight film, if you will)

here is how I do it

1) after your desired shape is achieved, clean the brass with whatever you have on hand (soap, or windex, doesn't matter) then wipe with alcohol.

2)figure out where exactly you want your solder to be, and coat the area JUST around the joint with your rosin.

3) heat up one piece and "tin", or coat, the part with solder. then do the same with the other piece. this gives you a ready to go solder joint.

4) now situate the parts how you are going to have them when finished, and get a small blob of solder on your iron, and join the parts together. this accomplishes a very clean joint that will need very little cleanup and if done right will not need any filler.

TIP: if you "tin" the inside of brass tubing and basically solder from the inside, you can have a nearly invisible joint.

TIP#2: a small butane torch works really good for this application.

Thanks for comments on this "different" build :)

Is that a steering rack in the 4th pic?Stop putting ideas into my head!!
Actually it's one of tha main suspension dampers that run along the side of the chassis in this car.
The picture below will probably show better what I'm trying to do here - basically I want a "metal" suspension
http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/9672/2cv132qb.jpg

sportracer02 - I agree with you that the tube of the outer cage are a little bit oversized Definately, started a new one last night with 2mm brass rod. this seems much better. we'll see.... :)

rsxse240 - Thanks for those tips!!!
I tried to read up on soldering on the net but the gap between theory and practice.... :loser:



Looking at the instructions again, I noticed that the dashboard and parcel tray are actually fixed to the door panel parts – which of course aren’t there anymore :banghead: so I’ve cut off the relevant parts from the panels and they will be fixed inside the body and all should be OK.

Also since the whole car will be open the floor needs some work – and carpet flocking is not an option :evillol: .
I filled 64 (j/k) ejector marks and also descided to fill in the spare wheel well to create a flat floor. I’m now thinking that actually I will try and make some kind of “anti slip” metal floor surface. I’ll either use cigarette foil or maybe some textured styrene if I can find some.

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/4227/2cv116vb.jpg


thanks again for looking

The old 2CV. The car that the French designed to carry eggs in baskets across farm lands etc… Or so I read, and watched on the discovery channel. They are much loved by there owners, but I saw one the over day, and it looked to be restored to its former glory. Was like it had just rolled off the assembly line, totally agree, the car is now an iconic classic, and surly along with the beetle and mini will never be forgotten, and will be recited to the younger generation by thousands of granddads around the world..

Anyhow, your build is certainly ambitious and good luck with it. I’m sure you will make a nice job of it. Certainly something different, bit like Monty Python - “And now for something totally different” as you have already quoted..!!

Cooooool

Update (or more accurately back to basics)

My initial roll cage was obviously out of scale so I started again using thinner brass rod but gave up on that medium too as I’m obviously not ready for it yet. Then I remembered that this is called PLASTIC modeling and went to styrene.

I re-made the side fixing mechanism on the side of the car. This method is what I had in mind from the very beginning but I tried to cut corners a bit. Lesson learned – do it properly first time round. I want a fixing mechanism that I can take off for painting and replace in exactly the same position - the fixing pins will do this - then the roll cage will not require any last minute re-fitting after painting (I hope)

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/4561/2cv151sk.jpg


http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2581/2cv166ms.jpg


This is the beginning of the new roll cage using styrene rod with a metal core. I think this is looking much better that the previous one.

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6725/2cv185ms.jpg


Started making “slot on” type front bumper from styrene rod my favourite material of late – drilled out lollypop stick. :biggrin:

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/708/2cv192ci.jpg


This is where I am up to after last night’s work. Next stage will be to start fixing cross members and the front of the frame.

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/2379/2cv206th.jpg


I hope to start on the seats this weekend.

Does anyone have an old, scrapped 2CV kit? I need a spare wheel to hang on the frame and can’t find one anywhere

Thanks for looking and comments and ideas for contrasting colour scheme gratefully received – remember that I’m colour blind!

Hi,

looks better now!!

Is the front bar thicker ?

Those French.. :grinno: when everybody else put the rollcage inside the car, they of course have to do it in their special french way :grinno: ..
"Oui Jean-Paul, ze röölcage .."
" We not do like everybödy else. We put on outside of car!! "
"Ahh, we French be ze smartest, Jean-Paul!!"

Now that's cool!!:eek:

WOWWWW! It´s a different kind of car!!! hehehe Nice Build!

:lol2: That´s probably the most crazy thing i´ve ever seen here, but i like it! Good luck on the cage! :bigthumb:

Those French.. :grinno: when everybody else put the rollcage inside the car, they of course have to do it in their special french way :grinno: ..
"Oui Jean-Paul, ze röölcage .."
" We not do like everybödy else. We put on outside of car!! "
"Ahh, we French be ze smartest, Jean-Paul!!"

That's sooooo funny :) LOL it was worth posting this build just for that comment :bigthumb: I officially name this car Jean-Paul! God bless all who ride in her!

I'll take the other comments as compliments - after all guys, how many bloody 300kmh cars can we look at? j/k

BTW I was serious about being colour blind, if you have any suggestions for a different colour scheme I'm listening.

Thanks again for looking in.

You're getting there... if it were me I'd paint the rollcage a metal type of colour, but I'm not sure about the body.. Metal rollcage and black would look cool..

But it's your model, I'm sure you will find a good colour..

BTW - if you're colour blind, why did you make a comment about my 300ZX being "cherry".. It is cherry.. Not sure how colour blind totally works.. Can you tell what colour is erm colour.. For example what do you see white as? I work in IT, and I had to engineer a colour blind computer build once.. She could only see white if it was green...!!

You're getting there... if it were me I'd paint the rollcage a metal type of colour, but I'm not sure about the body.. Metal rollcage and black would look cool..

But it's your model, I'm sure you will find a good colour..

BTW - if you're colour blind, why did you make a comment about my 300ZX being "cherry".. It is cherry.. Not sure how colour blind totally works.. Can you tell what colour is erm colour.. For example what do you see white as? I work in IT, and I had to engineer a colour blind computer build once.. She could only see white if it was green...!!

mick, as far as I remember you said it was cherry red :) I can see that it's red but whether it's cherry red or tomato ketchup red is a different story. I was actually being a bit tounge-in-cheek 'cos you already new that I have bit of a problem with colours :)

Colour blindness - in my case at least - isn't a total inability to see all colors, it's the inability to differentiate between some colours. The classic case of course being red/green which is why traffic lights in the UK have a very specific sequence so that c-blind drivers can still tell at night from a distance if the lights are changing from red to green or from green to red.

I have a moderate degree of c-blindness. I can distinguish most basic colours at full intensity but problems really start as they lighten or darken. For example I don't actually know what colour my Cobra "really" is - I know what it said on the can and I know what I see but I don't see a big difference to the Boxster which I "know" is black.

About once a month my wife won't let me leave the house because I screwed up with suit/shirt/tie mix - makes me feel like a kid when she does that LOL

I remember when I was diagnosed. It was a bit scary actually because I had no idea untill then that I had a problem and when the doctor asked me what number was on the card and I couldn't see jack s**t ....:)

sorry for the digression, but you asked :)

Yeah, I do remember reading about you saying you was colour blind.. But what I read and what I remember of what I've read can sometimes be a problem..

I think they call that ADD. Or at least that is what a doctor once called it to me.. Don't know, I wasn't paying attention..!! :lol2:

Yeah, I do remember reading about you saying you was colour blind.. But what I read and what I remember of what I've read can sometimes be a problem..

I think they call that ADD. Or at least that is what a doctor once called it to me.. Don't know, I wasn't paying attention..!! :lol2:

:lol:

meh, everybody has problems, i myself develop a twitch whenever i'm nervous, or anxious. doctor put me on pills, they did bugger all but make me angry, i stopped them, so now i just live with it.


are you going to make the bike for the back as well?


as for colour, purposely do a dodgy paint job, make it look like Jacques had too much wine and went crazy with some spray cans.

do it in the typical French colours, Red White and Blue, like their flag.

Cool build, Stevenski! I'll be watching with interest. I like your scratchbuilt suspension dampers- nice touch, I'll be looking forward to seeing them painted up.

Hafta say with the roolbar idea, I'd be seriously tempted to add a caged roof rack, like in Tamiya's Rally Mini Cooper. Put in it another set of tyres, a suitcase, a set of skis, a keg of beer, and a habachi, and do a World Rally version of the CV2. :sunglasse

are you going to make the bike for the back as well?


I'd like to put a bike or smthg on the back but I don't think I'm up to making one :) A friend in Germany put me onto Preisner railway accessories and they have some 1/24 bikes but they cost 20euros each!! :uhoh: in the meantime I'm scouring various sections of ebay and other auction sites hoping something will turn up.

Biggest prob right now is to source a 5th wheel to hang the frame. I was even thinking of trying to cast one out ot modelling clay and putty but I could only do a "one sided" wheel that way and God knows how I would do the tyre :). Maybe Il'll find on old die cast model somewhere.

That's an interesting idea on the tri-coleur concept! Now, which color is which? :loser: j/k
I wasn't moaning about the c-blindness. It's not such a big deal at all, just looking for some creative input - which I got, thanks! :bigthumb:

MPWR: - I've got mixed feelings about painting them up. If I do, then I won't be able to admire my metal work ;) on the other hand, they "should" be painted. If I do decide to paint 'em, I might use the opprtunity to try out some weathering for the first time - chipped paint, rust, gunk etc.
About the rest, I look forward to seeing them on your 2CV :evillol:

Hopefully I might have something worth posting tomorow. Roll cage is tarting to come together just having some problem figuring the front part out and there's the "slight" issue that I bought too little styrene rod and the LHS doesn't have any more of the same thickness. :banghead:

Could always look around on ebay for another 2CV kit, might be cheaper.. You get the parts you need.. Just an idea that's all..

UPDATE

I finally figured out what the “2” in 2CV stands for….you have to re-make everything at least 2 times :biggrin:

Managed to get about 80% of the roll cage finished. The front section in these photos is just dry fitted so it might look a bit “wonky”. The front bumper is still in progress and will be bent some more around the front.

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/7073/2cv215oj.jpg

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/3778/2cv227ol.jpg



I think it is much better in scale now and fits much closer to the body. In fact in a couple of places I’m afraid that it might be too close.

The metal filled styrene rod doesn’t glue together for love nor money, so in a couple places I had to use a “rod in tube” strategy to get a strong join. This will have an extra benefit though in easing overall assembly (I hope).

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/7894/2cv233wp.jpg

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/3931/2cv245yd.jpg



I managed to do the old style seats this weekend and I am quite happy with the results as they exceeded my quite low expectations. Made from 1,5mm brass rod hand bent around a design drawn out on graph paper and nails (as per the roll bar).

First I made the 3 major sections: vertical, horizontal and the “middle” leg (oops! That doesn’t sound too good :biggrin: ).

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/462/2cv251lf.jpg



Of course I buggered up – when I measured the car to get the width, I measured at the floor level. I kind of forgot the fact that car bodies slope inwards as they go up so of course when I test fitted, the seat was too wide.

Not to worry, I just cut out a section of the horizontals and slid the ends into 2mm brass rod cut to the right length. In hindsight this would have been a good way to do it from the start – it’s very easy to get everything parallel and it was damn awkward bending the seat in one whole piece Here’s the almost finished seat – it still needs an upright in the middle.

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/7002/2cv267ni.jpg

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/8545/2cv274av.jpg



Just for fun and self-motivation, I used some Tamiya masking tape to mock-up the fabric and see how they’re coming along. I put the original kit seat next for comparison. They aren’t perfect but I’m quite happy.

http://img92.imageshack.us/img92/5880/2cv285kf.jpg



Thanks for looking. A bientot!


.

That rear seat idea is fantastic. :smile: I might use it some time.

Yeah, the seat is great.. That's really cool. Great work... You want to be careful, you'll have someone asking for this in a transkit before long...

Keep going..!!

mini-update:

Spent a couple of hours this morning playing with Jean-Paul and couldn't resist posting this pic. I'm beginning to feel that it's coming together even though there's still another 80% to go :)


http://img365.imageshack.us/img365/9563/2cv292ac.jpg


Thanks for the feedback Jurva - Although it is actually a front seat bench :iceslolaneven though it doesn't look like it

Mickbench - Yep, I can just see the Outer Mongolia Plastic Modelling Society lining up for these :rofl: :lol2: :smokin:

Excelent job Stevenski!

The seat making idea is super

This is a wild little project, very cool.

You might want to try using 2mm OD styrene tubing, which has a 1mm ID, and slip some 'stem wire' inside to hold it's shape when you bend it (I got mine in the craft section of a department store)

This is looking fabulous already, no need to build it further, it would take away from all the work done to it!

Simply amazing what is coming out of your little garage!

Olivier

Great idea and progress. Especially love your seats.

UPDATE: Jean Paul creeps forward.

Last couple of months have been bad for modeling (no time except to buy more kits). However, last couple of weekends have been a bit more forgiving and I have managed to actually do something instead of just thinking about it!

First thing has been to really finish all the parts for the roll cage. Here it is, and next stage will be to prime and paint it. I’ve decided that I want to try and make this build look as if it has been well used so I’ll be looking at chipping, rusting and bending it all (True story is that my painting sucks and it would look like that anyway :grinno: )

http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/2549/rollbar26wi.jpg


Since I had finished the roll bars, it was time to address the issue of the spare wheel that’s supposed to hang there. I couldn’t find a suitable part anywhere so I bit the bullet, bought some RTV silicone and resin and made a mold and cast my own.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/3465/casting_wheelsandmold_01.jpg

Not bad results for my first try (disasters along the way of course). Will use the separate tyre and rim to make painting easier. Will use surplus casts as “luggage” for the trunk.



I’m trying to prepare all the parts before I start painting anything, so next up for no particular reason was the headlight guards. I scratchbuilt these out of wire, nail and spare P/E sprue and parts.

First, to make the rings, I wrapped some wire around a nail to make a series of coils:

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/6682/headlampguards027rd.jpg

I then removed two of the coils, flattened them and used CA glue to close the gap. I then took thin wire and glued it in place to make the mesh.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/1948/headlampguards032en.jpg

This didn’t work too well for me, so in the end I used some scrap P/E mesh cut to size and glued in place. The fixing bars were made out of P/E sprue ben and gled into place.

http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/2385/lightguards37wy.jpg


After my reasonably successful attempts at “metal work” with the dampers and seat, I decided that I wanted to try making a metal exhaust as well. In the picture below, you can see the kit part next to my 90% finished metal one made out of brass and aluminium tubing. The fixings are lollypop stick drilled out and a piece of brass wire.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/4868/exhaustkitvsscratch8xw.jpg
First attempts at bending the alu tube was disaster as it “kinked” all the time then I remembered reading about putting wire inside plastic tube to ease bending so I put some solder inside the alu tube and…MAGIC!!! Virtually no kinking!. Here’s the exhaust dry-fitted in place.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/8617/scratchexhaustinplace6ef.jpg


Now for something you youngsters have probably never seen in 1/1  - A crank handle!!
The 2CV can actually be started by manually cranking the engine and it doubles as a wheel spanner. I scratch built it out of some brass wire and a styrene rod which I carved to shape and drilled out.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/4589/crankhandle_02.jpg

The radiator was drilled in the middle to allow the crank handle to be inserted.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/4907/crankhandle_03.jpg



One of the last things for the interior (I hope) was the non-slip flooring to cover all the mold holes. Since I can’t get hold of styrene diamond plate and it is damned expensive anyway, I decide to try and make my own. Here’s how:

Make a pattern of the floor with masking tape.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/4149/diamondplatetemplate_01.jpg


Transfered this to plain styrene sheet, cut it out and covered this with some plastic netting I found in my workshop.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/6435/diamondplatetemplate_02.jpg


I then covered this with some Belgian chocolate wrapping foil (yum, yum). This is excellent material BTW – thin but very strong.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/9489/diamondplatetemplate034hb.jpg

After the foil was glued on, I rubbed it down all over with a cotton bud to get the embossed effect of the netting.

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/396/diamondplatetemplate046ft.jpg

This method worked very well – but now for the catch.... Don’t use styrene cement to fix the netting to the styrene sheet :banghead: !!! The next day the whole thing distorted and curled up like a pancake. Next time I would use white glue and CA the foil to the back.

Luckily I didn’t throw my template away and was given some PE diamond plate that AMV modellers use. I cut this out to shape (hard to do well) and this will be my real metal floor (painted, of course)


Here are some shots of a test fit to see how it’s working and to catch any bif problems:

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/765/testfit012cr.jpg


http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/7775/testfit026iv.jpg


http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/5475/testfit055hy.jpg


Sorry for the long post all in one go.

Next steps are to start putting the engine together and then painting – arrrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhh – I guess I can’t keep putting it off ;)

Hope you like some of the above and thanks for looking. Comments/suggestions always welcome


Stevenski

Nice nice and nice, you are full of the good ideas, I will copy some if you don't mind :D

Looks sweet man!

Wow, it looks great! I really like this project, marvelous work!

Stop it!

before it gets too good!

Oli

Hi,

nice progress, clean work !!!!!!!!!

As a full grown Citroën maniac I can't but just love this build. It'll look fantastic when finished....well, it already does.

Niclas

I'm speechless!!

Thanks guys for the encouragement - it is much appreciated!!


Posted by sjelic - 10-10-2005 at 02:38 PM
Nice nice and nice, you are full of the good ideas, I will copy some if you don't mind

Sasa - you gotta be kidding me!?!?!? :) It is me that copies from you! but just in case, feel free :lol: Sasa, I still looking for that wine :smokin:

To all of you - greetings from sunny Monte Negro and Croatia!

This is some very creative work. You are producing some nice idea in your little shop of model cars..!!

The metal flooring looks so good, great work. Very impressive work. Considering you have little time, your time you do have for model building is put to great usage.. Big thumbs up from me on this one.

I gotta say the progress looks stunning, i excpecially like the exhaust and light gaurds. Great scratch building.~!

Looks like terrific work, Stevenski! And to think it was only earlier this year that you claimed to be a beginner....

My wife has finally found herself a reissue of this kit. Now that I have see it in person, I can even better appreciate the work you've put into it.

Looking forward to seeing it painted up!

Very nice work on a very unique subject! I love your attention to detail and clean building style. I can tell this will turn out a masterpiece.

Cool project !

just breezed through this thread. Its a shame I didn't take time to open it sooner. Your attention to detail is amazing

ha, awesome, btw im also colorblind, although i cant see only one color purple

I did not see there were 3 pages ! I am amazed even more ! You scratch-builded a complete bench ! My compliments ! Yet, it is not built correct. Sorry about me being very critical. If you like, I can make pics of an original bench frame for you in ca. one week. Also the headlights are to high on their supports. Should be (much) lower. And the 'radiator' (it isn't actually a radiator, more of a plate-steel box to guide air trough as the 602 cc 29hp boxer engine has air-cooling) is too square.

Sorry if I'm a nitpick (or whatever you call those nagging persons), but I can provide pics of any 'flaw' in approx 1 week.

Yet: I prefer to see a 2cv with 'wrong' details than no 2cv at all ! You are very skillfull, my compliments ! I am amazed to see those awesome teeny-tiny wire meshes you made for the headlights. They look perfect, and also in an (in my opinion) impossible scale ! :thumbsup: :worshippy :bigthumb:

Also, don't worry about rust or bad paint jobs. All 2cv's look like that, except mine wich is one big lump of painted plaster on wheels :tongue:

I did not see there were 3 pages ! I am amazed even more ! You scratch-builded a complete bench ! My compliments ! Yet, it is not built correct. Sorry about me being very critical. If you like, I can make pics of an original bench frame for you in ca. one week. Also the headlights are to high on their supports. Should be (much) lower. And the 'radiator' (it isn't actually a radiator, more of a plate-steel box to guide air trough as the 602 cc 29hp boxer engine has air-cooling) is too square.

Sorry if I'm a nitpick (or whatever you call those nagging persons), but I can provide pics of any 'flaw' in approx 1 week.

Yet: I prefer to see a 2cv with 'wrong' details than no 2cv at all ! You are very skillfull, my compliments ! I am amazed to see those awesome teeny-tiny wire meshes you made for the headlights. They look perfect, and also in an (in my opinion) impossible scale ! :thumbsup: :worshippy :bigthumb:

Also, don't worry about rust or bad paint jobs. All 2cv's look like that, except mine wich is one big lump of painted plaster on wheels :tongue:

Hey 2CV!

I absolutely do not think you are nitpicking at all! It's obvious that you really know your subject and I think I'm lucky that you are offering help. Big thanks.

I would be very interested, to see some real bench seat shots although I can't promise you that I will hve the nerve to start afresh ;) The ref I used was a very nice '60s advert photo I found on the web. To be honest, I may have been paying more attention to the blonde's legs than the bench seat. :))

Also thanks again for the engine references you sent. French, 2 cylinder boxer engine wiring is way out of my frame of reference! Although Fiat 126s do have a little in common:))

Blonde's legs? Where?

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7901/rockandrollbar020bb.jpg

I don't see any blonde's legs....

Stevenski, are you holding out on us?

Hey 2CV!

I absolutely do not think you are nitpicking at all! It's obvious that you really know your subject and I think I'm lucky that you are offering help. Big thanks.

I would be very interested, to see some real bench seat shots although I can't promise you that I will hve the nerve to start afresh ;) The ref I used was a very nice '60s advert photo I found on the web. To be honest, I may have been paying more attention to the blonde's legs than the bench seat. :))

Also thanks again for the engine references you sent. French, 2 cylinder boxer engine wiring is way out of my frame of reference! Although Fiat 126s do have a little in common:))

I'm not amazed the wiring in a Fiat 126 is pretty much the same as the wiring of a 2cv. I've seen a Fiat 500 (technically almost identical to the Fiat 126) with a 2cv engine in the rear !

I've taken some pics of the bench. Unfortunattely, the batteries of my cam are empty now so I can't transfer them to our PC. But I did do a little measuring: The width of the frame is 1065mm and the outside diameter of the tubing is 22mm. I will post them for you when my camera is alive again.

I don't know who said it's strange that the rollbar is outside the bodywork of the car, but it makes perfect sense to me: if the car rolls over, the bodywork doesn't get damaged. Only a few scratches on the rollbar. And that's much cheaper to repair ;) The thing I find strange is that there is a rollbar. A 2cv is impossible to tip over. No matter how fast you go trough a corner or bend. I do know a thing or 2 about 2cv's and I also know some stories about it (including a 2cv getting hit by a big truck without the 3 passengers (dad and young 2 kids) getting hurt) , but I only heard twice in my life about a 2cv tipping over. Unless it was hit by another car.

Klutz_100, if you want to know more or want pics of details: let me know. Do not hesitate to PM because I have a bad memory.

Blonde's legs? Where?

http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7901/rockandrollbar020bb.jpg

I don't see any blonde's legs....

Stevenski, are you holding out on us?


Dude! Have you no discretion?!?!?!? :shakehead

We are behind the bushes!!

:rofl:

hey mate what a great project!! i love the gig u made for bending the bars :thumbsup:

this is a super-interesting build you have going. Im enjoying this progress thread, thanks for sharing w/ all the pics!

looks good but I don't like the 2 cv :wink:

looks good but I don't like the 2 cv :wink:


now that's respect.. Doesn't like the real car but will take the time to comment on your already great work..!!

Can't wait for the next installament..

Can't wait for the next installament..
yeah Stevenski... what's up with this project? work excuses won't work any longer mate! ;) j/k looking forward for your progress.

thanks guys - nothing like KITA for motivation ;)

Truth is I HAVE been really busy lately with only time to buy even more kits! LOL (just picked up a Revell 850i Premium kit yesterday) to go with the Delahaye that Roy "tricked" me into ;)

Naional holiday wekend in Poland so I'm hoping to get smthg done....we'll see :)

Thanks again for the ecouragement, you know it helps!

Please do take advantage of that free time and show us some progress.

Niclas