Ferrari 288GTO Revell + Fujimi 2 in one 1/24

Sorry I've been away from here so long... I was just concentrating on this project.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UspLVpYgSe8/T_gZXTzl5KI/AAAAAAAAAIQ/GYDPOR-GFRw/s1600/2012-06-12+15.11.12.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5Acl-Yncgec/T_gZmaMCDgI/AAAAAAAAAIY/x7EhzKSb3AE/s1600/P7051527+-+Copy.jpg

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8T_WfJzOSIY/T_gau47KuVI/AAAAAAAAAIg/_CQONKdkErU/s640/P7061548.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aauylpiFskQ/T_ga3TDYofI/AAAAAAAAAIo/gtpyVOxpwEU/s640/P7051535+-+Copy.jpg
*Body, chassis & dash board: Revell
*Engine, interior, inside the front bonnet, wheels and tires: Fujimi

I'll mention the steps one by one from the beginning soon.

See you later... :)

I made Fujimi's 288GTO already (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076240), but I thought I would be able to gain more on my favorite Ferrari.

*I've chosen Revell's body and chassis. Overall, I prefer the lines of it than Fujimis. Ms. Fujimi is too fat...
Pros and cons on Revell's.It's only my point of view.

<Pros>
*Good shape on rear and side section
*Atmosphere overall is good (Less emphasis)

<Cons>
*Face doesn't look similar (Too right-angled edges on Light covers, bonnet. They are also too close to the front edges.)
*Rounded edges on front and back on doors

OK, I'll sort those cons out!

Face Before
... I nearly throw this kit away because of this appearance. Look at these shape of edges of light lids and bonnet.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i6l0WU4HpGI/T_hEGaX52FI/AAAAAAAAAJE/F5r_quCyr1M/s1600/DSCF2154.jpg

Compare with the real one. I also have to think about louvers.
I don't actually like to make louvers from scratch,, but only to 288GTO...

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-boWzRZdVBa4/T_hE6QfCNbI/AAAAAAAAAJM/-DCWGK3-uwg/s1600/288GTO_20.jpg



I cut all those away and applied 0.3mm plastic papers.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yahbsuXgdOM/T_hGPB2NKpI/AAAAAAAAAJU/GsfE0aVCFPM/s1600/DSCF2292.jpg



And filled the putty...

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7phiXfo1Xgk/T_hG3t1ro4I/AAAAAAAAAJc/VIVKK3-_SRM/s1600/DSCF2294.jpg



Then sanded. OK, I feel much better now!!
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MySKVSvtOFc/T_hIGN78ytI/AAAAAAAAAJk/G85Y-KfMJbo/s1600/DSCF2304.jpg



Oops.. ... I was too bad to apply holes... (These following photos are before the works on light covers and bonnet)

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-25h3ZYb1QsI/T_hIoxwQqKI/AAAAAAAAAJs/Sb_9bVLBkfA/s1600/DSCF2215.jpg



I have to sort my terrible works out...
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9lC9GmG_sUk/T_hJgI0E4WI/AAAAAAAAAJ0/CbmqOStC38E/s1600/DSCF2222.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XiHCBUHpP9c/T_hJqnrBjlI/AAAAAAAAAJ8/w7Fml0oxVU0/s1600/DSCF2232.jpg

Putty was applied. Then sand up... yes, acceptable. Don't pursue the perfect.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1xBe-1NPtQI/T_hJ8hoxRrI/AAAAAAAAAKE/Px-r-3v3KnM/s1600/DSCF2238.jpg



I felt those driving light lenses are too big. To apply Fujimi's lenses, I put plastic board on the area and made the area smaller .
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D5MbuY2FlEU/T_hK6_FkezI/AAAAAAAAAKM/50cTKLH3uUk/s1600/DSCF2269.jpg



Rounded edges on front and back on doors
Before:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aHjJS32ao7Q/T_hB-LIBr3I/AAAAAAAAAI0/v4l5UCAK1HE/s1600/DSCF2112.jpg



After:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-97cOEBg7J98/T_hCRJ8TJQI/AAAAAAAAAI8/CMfLXEUt79E/s1600/DSCF2277.jpg
(This photo is before the changing the shape of bonnet and light lids.)
The doors were sanded up to make straight line from front to back.
Can't see the deference...?
The ｌoubers on front section was also removed. To check the deference, I spray the surfacer from time to time.
That's all for today. Thanks for visiting! :)

Quick post...

Edge up and gathering the body-color parts.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6ryIUfuQU9g/T_llXvVSxTI/AAAAAAAAAKY/UIkjQKuHEoQ/s1600/DSCF2198.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k0EyN9NmLVM/T_llp7HhXZI/AAAAAAAAAKg/vCWYkHHu28k/s1600/DSCF2211.jpg
To edge-up, I put plastic strings and put the putty on, then sand up.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xkaQ4rsjs4k/T_lltFDXEUI/AAAAAAAAAKo/O3e5USwU3QY/s1600/DSCF2213.jpg
Some volume-ups on fenders. Yellow putty is Tamiya's epoxy, gray ones are normal putty. The ones which have the transparency are Tamiya's Light-curing putty, but I didn't like it. Because it's edges are easy to come off even if I sand the body before applying. In my point of view, I recommend epoxy and normal putty for these works..
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JBjBYRUbMXA/T_lmDgxEUxI/AAAAAAAAAKw/1a90ZpKwzCY/s1600/DSCF2256.jpg
Rear bumpers have to be removed, 'cause I don't like masking on this bumpy surface.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V8-YZQaRNHs/T_lmHzDZ-LI/AAAAAAAAALA/BiRhsWw6E_Y/s1600/DSCF2261.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-D4FqAHlL4XA/T_lmFhlCHYI/AAAAAAAAAK4/40NSRbDbPRA/s1600/DSCF2259.jpg
The gaps are filled and glued with plastic papers.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MKkII5uzt8o/T_lmrfT5CCI/AAAAAAAAALI/8PLdpMJNAsM/s1600/DSCF2284.jpg
As mentioned already, front bonnet was removed. What a thick plastic body! Though this thickness strengthen the body. Yes, I like Revell's.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T_8u5zQ_MAo/T_lmxMqbuZI/AAAAAAAAALY/7xUB3qPPT50/s1600/DSCF2305.jpg
I think I'm too picky, but last section of front fender has to be this shape (I cut off the edge).
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4_h7x_LE4nI/T_lm0jxMPuI/AAAAAAAAALg/B3jM0CxVg5s/s1600/DSCF2324.jpg
'cause I don't like the gaps on body, I cut this last section of chassis off.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-03uLpaAgQBo/T_lm3QnRldI/AAAAAAAAALo/AALyvzAK2hU/s1600/DSCF2331.jpg
Then glued to the body. Gaps are filled with putty (then sand up).
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9uN0cMrjrAc/T_lm7L2_UgI/AAAAAAAAALw/PERQUUFO5wk/s1600/DSCF2333.jpg
This interior part is from Revell's. I cut the rear window section off.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g6L63-IphAM/T_lnnioPeII/AAAAAAAAAMA/gNxaeiQM2TA/s1600/DSCF2490.jpg
Then attached and glued to the body. I attached plastic papers from the back side of the body as supports. This was a bit tough work and has to be treated very carefully not to be taken off throughout the paint works, but I prefer "no gaps and no uneven body color:shakehead".
Oh, doors and lids (fuel and oil) were removed already.

That's it for today..! Thanks for looking.

Let's have a good sleep for happy Monday. :icon16:

You must have a great hart to get a Revell GTO ( in the Netherlands we call revell: rehell:evillol: ).
I've build both the fujimi and the rehell kit.
The fujimi was better on every part in scale, the rehell kit is to wide on the rear and to small on the front:nono:.
They took the front of the 308, or it looks like they did.

my opinion is that this is one of the most beautiful ferrari's ever build.

You must have a great hart to get a Revell GTO ( in the Netherlands we call revell: rehell:evillol: ).
I've build both the fujimi and the rehell kit.
The fujimi was better on every part in scale, the rehell kit is to wide on the rear and to small on the front:nono:.
They took the front of the 308, or it looks like they did.

my opinion is that this is one of the most beautiful ferrari's ever build.

Thanks, denman2 from Netherlands!! I really like your daughter's CB750F (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=963073). I think my daughters never make scale models like me (they love art things though). Oh, I love your CB750F (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=979884) as well. It's really neat!

I know Fujimi 288GTO is very good kit (I was actually thinking Fujimi's was better and I've completed it (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076240)), but many Japanese modelers are thinking Revell 288GTO has better looking (Once again, Fujimi did excellent work, Fujimi's parts such as engine are sharper, I admit). Please look at these pictures and comments:smile:. (These are just my opinion:iceslolan)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IH5eOeJYotg/T_rFjVlgNeI/AAAAAAAAAMU/PrYg_HY0L64/s1600/1984_86_Ferrari_288_GTO_Rene_Staud_021.jpeg
Looking this real picture above, I can find it doesn't have so wide section as I thought.

....And, this is Fujimi's 288GTO I made (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076240). Even I did lots of modifying on body, still too fat and the front section is too big, in my opinion. It is beyond the deformation.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1QwPtVK_wWw/T_rHeCIP9yI/AAAAAAAAAMc/HeJtJx0LrI8/s1600/2011-10-28+01.43.41.jpg


Another picture of real one.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7BF9FOIEchY/T_rIDBVrS8I/AAAAAAAAAMk/UaM46cpIXHg/s1600/P015Web.jpg

And, Revell's body from almost the same angle.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-88sQSgcfd1A/T_rIbiFWwLI/AAAAAAAAAMs/9_o5v8j5cYw/s1600/DSCF1670.JPG

Over there is Fujimi's GTO I was making (Don't think I was widening the Fujimi's body, looking the putty applied. That was only because I widened the wheel arches so the width on each fenders went narrower).

I believe you can find the Revell's body has more accuracy overall (of course not perfect, though).

I also found good sample of Revell's completed work (From http://blogs.yahoo.co.jp/renaisssance90/60554683.html ; sorry, this is written in Japanese but you can see the pictures).
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Sad7Sbi6Ho0/T_rKOAirG9I/AAAAAAAAAM0/gtQ3nd4BZvE/s1600/img_1503046_60554683_0.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JzVCxhNETfY/T_rKUVd5dyI/AAAAAAAAAM8/yxugcam71KA/s1600/img_1503046_60554683_8.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MlvHeRSkXPg/T_rKl_NRHwI/AAAAAAAAANE/j758ZqFCWiE/s1600/img_1503046_60554683_2.jpg
Tires and wheels are from Fujimi, but most of the parts are from Revell. I think this is one of the best 288GTO kit ever made.

....These are why I decided to use Revell's body and chassis with some (many) mods.

Soo far I am happy with my decision. (Though I did lots of mods. I'll mention them one by one)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-47zz_qRolO8/T_rNvag5nQI/AAAAAAAAANQ/wWTimf5Ea78/s1600/DSCF2982.jpg

I just want to have MY BEST 288GTO, because I love it!:wink:

Wow, I wrote too much... But I was thinking someday I want to mention why I chose the Revell's body once again:p.

Have a good night! (Oops, in Netherlands is it Morning now??:evillol:)

See you again and happy modeling!!

nice to see another great work from you. the attention to detail is great!

nice to see another great work from you. the attention to detail is great!
Thanks nugundam93; MITSUBISHI freak!

I really appreciate your comment:) I'll let you know (through AF) about the progress. I myself is looking forward to seeing the result!!


And, eugene78 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=556269) , thanks to your "Thanks":iceslolan. I really like your clean finish such as http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=952033, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=974123, http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1061771. It's good to see your very neat, tidy finish!! :smile:

Wooow... I am exhausted working hard... :crying: but I'll post just quickly!!! Yet sleepy ...zzzz
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xAgTwXV_jqU/T_wQTbpniJI/AAAAAAAAANc/aotrnmMlCVs/s1600/DSCF2336.jpg
One door was separated. Mmmm, thick body. But it means strong enough!

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--wgCvAyRqzc/T_wRLulEqwI/AAAAAAAAANw/K9NqSfcNA94/s1600/DSCF2427.jpg
Holes are applied as you can see... (Section under radiator). After this picture, front suspension's section was discarded and replaced to Fujimi's because I want the front wheels steerable.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eX9xYUyy8tw/T_wSP4DcC9I/AAAAAAAAAN4/yncI2zy4gRQ/s1600/DSCF2428.jpg
Left one is Fujimi's chassis, and right one is Revell's. I never know how the real one looks, but I thought Revell's could be more real. Could be a though work, but I decided to incorporate most of Fujimi's parts; engine, front suspension and so on, to Revell's chassis. Yet it is easy to fit the prompt chassis to Revell's body, it shows the great fit!! Thanks, Revell!!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lXPNhYTHMQs/T_wT2zurAVI/AAAAAAAAAOA/q_Rk-_qXejo/s1600/DSCF2437.jpg
Are you ready to be cut..?

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-__nbje1Nx0I/T_wUEgJ80iI/AAAAAAAAAOI/ywBtrwcHp3A/s1600/DSCF2438.jpg
Ready or not, I've cut this section to fit Fujimi's suspension unit in.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CR_IFZ4noPA/T_wUghvnyvI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/0eQAt-k3rfw/s1600/DSCF2456.jpg
Once I set the circular saw on the rotary tool, I become a cutting addicted.
I believe the same things may sometimes happen to you too.


But I think my decisions were right.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5K-e8-1_LN4/T_wV4c_ltmI/AAAAAAAAAOY/9C-SUv9VOpA/s1600/DSCF2461.jpg
Black interior tub is from Revell, gray parts are from Fujimi. Of course there were lots of cuts and pastes.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-p7hgnU85_g0/T_wWVqAIwMI/AAAAAAAAAOg/zuIPwMtUSsM/s1600/DSCF2471.jpg
To make the lid removable so that I can see the engine from cockpit....

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-suB-p0RpPkQ/T_wW0hh6JrI/AAAAAAAAAOo/G7vgCLCd0Po/s1600/DSCF2470.jpg

Mmmm.... I am noww soooo sleeeepy and my fingeeers areeee not leavingg frooom thhe keysss.....


Alloww meeee to sleeeep......

See you sooon

I feel better today... :) Thanks, my co-workers for helping a lot!!
Let's start posting for today..!!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CvnByQDVZ1M/T_1K16ORPgI/AAAAAAAAAPE/HXHclHBu4H0/s1600/DSCF2124.jpg
The shape of air intake is one of the weakest point of Revell's body. I have to do something here...

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y66xxDqxbZ4/T_1IJSNySvI/AAAAAAAAAO0/DMge-nDaDuA/s1600/DSCF2134.jpg
Firstly, I edged up..

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fS-b9cx_WJQ/T_1JT6DS-EI/AAAAAAAAAO8/9R1rXFAnffQ/s1600/DSCF2493.jpg
Then I tried to cast inside with epoxy putty with the silicone tip (curved; following picture)

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UEytyzhe0-4/T_1LpexP0TI/AAAAAAAAAPM/a1XjN3BfAnI/s320/DSCF2482.jpg

The result is...

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jULKHicNiMU/T_1MudWuiNI/AAAAAAAAAPU/axps3ThXIoE/s1600/DSCF2496.jpg
Terrible. :disappoin

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lvr2aIKPLKY/T_1MwQWrGzI/AAAAAAAAAPc/swG-e_ZvDGs/s1600/DSCF2510.jpg
After all, I need to fill normal putty and sand up inside. This is the picture on the way.
I didn't actually need the silicone tip, I think. If I try the same kind of work next time, I will just fill up with the normal putty and make a hole with the rotary tool, then sand up.

By the way, before I saw this picture I hadn't thought I could sand up such a tiny tiny place as the air intake.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0ea8Hpe5AD4/T_1QBMm10RI/AAAAAAAAAPo/LvzAdFsQqXE/s1600/DSC_00031.jpg
(from http://modelers-press.main.jp/?p=4976#more-4976 (http://modelers-press.main.jp/?p=4976#more-4976))
Sand paper is applied on the tip of toothpick with double-sided adhesive tape. But I myself set the sand paper with CA glue, because with double-sided adhesive tape, it was very easy to come off.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GJ4hLf33nA8/T_1Srha4r5I/AAAAAAAAAP0/6C9aLLrSZnw/s1600/DSCF2511.jpg
This is the result so far (still some "KAIZEN"; improvement needed)

Oops, I didn't say anything about side-skirt (how do you call this part?)
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Qa_Qgehbruo/T_1VFFK_tZI/AAAAAAAAAQM/Cu6WyO8Hkdo/s1600/DSCF2245.jpg
I cut this off because this was just about to come off when I was cutting out the door.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CJod3DPRF_Q/T_1Vq47prXI/AAAAAAAAAQU/h1jygytDEvM/s1600/DSCF2244.jpg
I thought it was good to edge-up this intake under door.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-K6bFSH7f7GM/T_1VsLrCXlI/AAAAAAAAAQc/XNtEYqoX5XQ/s1600/DSCF2248.jpg
Then, plastic paper was glued from the back.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Ns-GV9hjYo/T_1Vtvts6WI/AAAAAAAAAQk/zGxgBf6xOWA/s1600/DSCF2250.jpg
The plastic paper is the rim under the body. Rear section of the paper was cut after this photo.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Inq5s6Jwg2c/T_1Tp9n_ztI/AAAAAAAAAQE/4BMCTUJ25Ng/s1600/DSCF2513.jpg
Another plastic paper was applied on the edge of.... what can I call this part?? just before the front window.

Lots of works are still remained....

That's all for today, thanks for looking!!

incredible work.

very nice, keep on posting !

A very strong modifications..

Waiting for update. ^^

incredible work.

very nice, keep on posting !

Thanks lovegt40, I saw your work here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=977143&page=4) and it is a wonderful built..!! You should post it on the completed gallery :p !


A very strong modifications..

Waiting for update. ^^

Thanks briansin, I'll keep posting :smile: (and keep building my GTO. ...Now I'm sort of too much concentrating to post, not to built it:uhoh: )

OK, I'll start posting for today :)

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-59TCa3BsYr4/T_6r2JA1SHI/AAAAAAAAAQw/cbxiQmXFRQg/s1600/DSCF2518.jpg
I use a special gadget to connect the body and chassis. This is essential if I make a full-open (door open) model to place them exactly the same position every time.

This is the special gadget.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WtaGoYn3-TA/T_6tT36xlrI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/0CvMF4B13S0/s1600/DSCF2526.jpg
Miniature connector. I think you can find several type of connector in PC shops.

*Mr. Koji Kappa (famous Japanese modeler: http://www.cims.jp/sun/kappakoji/index.html (http://www.cims.jp/sun/kappakoji/index.html)) told and gave these to me, many many thanks!!!!
Also look at this stunning, astonishing work of him !! http://kappakoji.untokosho.com/gallery_Miura.htm
http://kappakoji.untokosho.com/GAZOO/Miura/Miura_SV_051.jpg (http://kappakoji.untokosho.com/gallery_Miura.htm)
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MEQkbzZggQU/T_7CaEnxpfI/AAAAAAAAASg/anE6RXhIRDM/s1600/Miura_SV_051.jpg

Now back to my work.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KloYY-Vm-pI/T_6wKbR41VI/AAAAAAAAARI/61rgD5Kx_8Q/s1600/Connector+.jpg
I fixed them with CA glue and putty never to come off.
Wow, body's back side is so ugly... I'll fix it with rotary tools after a while.

Now starting the jobs on chassis.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YIpmQ5M6thA/T_6xCSPTeaI/AAAAAAAAARQ/_Wfu2bB8D8M/s1600/DSCF2564.jpg
I am going to make the engine section detachable. Holes are applied on the chassis, engine flame are extended forward to fit in the holes. And the connector are applied as following...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-F_oFlwrma_U/T_6z5M1glhI/AAAAAAAAARc/MzmxZgJYiik/s1600/DSCF2522.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9NfCQyFDAzI/T_60GJU5dhI/AAAAAAAAARk/p5pWQJ3waFw/s1600/DSCF2527.jpg
(On this picture, the connector was applied on right hole. )

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZjH134mqsiM/T_60jLgjovI/AAAAAAAAARs/GjrIaD0GSDs/s1600/DSCF2528.jpg

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lb30Dh3ypHs/T_605WcKqRI/AAAAAAAAAR0/N_bUTqPn5CU/s1600/DSCF2592.jpg
The engine stands are cut from Fujimi's chassis. Holes are applied as the real cars have them.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mD8MzEc1OgU/T_6086iy3mI/AAAAAAAAASA/lkp6IcfMcxc/s1600/DSCF2597.jpg
Then glued to Revell's flame.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rSOgcisSyK4/T_60-nF6jvI/AAAAAAAAASM/qRjYPLVfKyM/s1600/DSCF2609.jpg
To fit Fujimi's engine horizontally, applied plastic boards.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Mr8ijdTBXmw/T_62T7Y7g_I/AAAAAAAAASU/eSXdRwdUnB0/s1600/DSCF2596.jpg
I feel it's a perfect fit! It's position seems good. Cool!:sunglasse

By the way, the real works just in this post took about 4-5 hours or more... Now I'm getting used to taking time to pursue the reality. For this project, I'm going to forget about the time.

That's all for today, thanks for looking :) Other body works come next...

using the connectors is a neat trick. fortunately i have a stash of those from one of my classes, will try to use them the next build.

your build's definitely moving along nicely :)

Sorry I didn't post yesterday.... it was Friday night.

Today's will be a bit longer because I took day off for posting yesterday.

I want to express this; the hollow of the body for emblem.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WIOcqCI_hB8/UAFBSgPjd4I/AAAAAAAAATM/dWu_FYD3mQI/s1600/a4.jpg

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-euQS1gTtqVY/UAE_HTpkzVI/AAAAAAAAAS8/gBuTjvNXfq8/s1600/6.jpg
I placed the PE emblem, then traced around by scraper.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UVc0te9Qzp8/UAE_J5YijgI/AAAAAAAAATE/Ccfx-0doTyA/s1600/8.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NpabH-D4jFI/UAE_CAtvFqI/AAAAAAAAASs/-iax2d5vE8Y/s1600/10.jpg
Traced, traced and traced, then scraped inside by the rotary tool.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n_FIL8Pwbk0/UAFEi_6nF6I/AAAAAAAAATY/x1JOqPw0Z7U/s1600/4.jpg
Considering the thickness of paint, the hollow was made a bit larger than the emblem.

The PE emblem was from MUSEUM COLLECTION, but I think many manufactures are making the same kinds.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3JuRlvDiN4c/UAE_E6cH9II/AAAAAAAAAS0/GkcKWbqX0UY/s1600/5.jpg


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Wsl5o5a1Obk/UAFGMR_VM0I/AAAAAAAAATg/0v8mvYsLls0/s1600/11.jpg
And the front fender's lower part was reshaped as shown above... sorry, I didn't take the "before" picture. "Before" was too narrow on the bottom.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hmgr6So09Cg/UAFHIar4JXI/AAAAAAAAATo/MH5LbSnlyOk/s1600/12.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jxCHV89Jt54/UAFHJ3_sXXI/AAAAAAAAATw/zMnMHYnB7H0/s1600/14.jpg
I filled the gaps between the body and the interior with plastic boards.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CClNjWyLMsM/UAFHMAwGcoI/AAAAAAAAAT4/IHkQ7anUuWw/s1600/16.jpg
Then applied another board and reshaped.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ma80OTqL16w/UAFHQbYFMYI/AAAAAAAAAUI/lVPRlhQ3RS0/s1600/22.jpg
OK, the the door fits in proper position.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6eq8I5buNHc/UAFHSwT1BCI/AAAAAAAAAUQ/9oMyCl73J0w/s1600/24.jpg
I am happy with the straight line of the door as well.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bY2RCiqsGH8/UAFHOHsT54I/AAAAAAAAAUA/POm8JAYwZDU/s1600/18.jpg
The light covers are from Fujimi. The widths were narrowed and fitted.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KaWkLD3zsfU/UAFJuGx4H-I/AAAAAAAAAUY/9JvCz2rIcLQ/s1600/26.jpg
I was afraid of this troublesome work... but I started on the door movable sections. This base part was cut and sanded out from a runner.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r_cCcogXT1E/UAFJwn7NXMI/AAAAAAAAAUg/Y0unKcLS7M4/s1600/28.jpg
I made 2 types pf base, one has long hands and another has short hands to see how the door moves smoothly without hitting the body. In this case I chose the left one.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3mr48bZhawg/UAFJ1TLKYyI/AAAAAAAAAUw/qD2suLc0-Gc/s1600/32.jpg
This picture shows how it works. The blue cord is just a temporary one, later on it'll be replaced to the brass rods.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ry_HhFWKPxE/UAFJy-lfTsI/AAAAAAAAAUo/81BIGbZKFHY/s1600/30.jpg
The base was glued to the body.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BW0Ds4sNTJw/UAFJ2xnGLUI/AAAAAAAAAU4/gKY0EITq-9s/s1600/33.jpg
The brass rods are removable so that I can take doors off when needed.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-654JAosRkZg/UAFJ5C__PVI/AAAAAAAAAVA/SkQDECIKzyY/s1600/34.jpg
Hmmmm, it's cool!!

...But I think this is better solution. From http://www.geocities.jp/factory_chikasitsu/diary/2012-02/diary_2012_02.html . He uses 0.5mm brass rods and plastic boards. I found this much later than I finished the work on doors.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5PYFQXZF1Tk/UAFZDgnlRHI/AAAAAAAAAXE/shGLqR0E_4A/s1600/120205-12.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HNsMVCLWASs/UAFZGG__JZI/AAAAAAAAAXM/rYH3Zt7xZz8/s1600/120205-13.jpg
This is much easier and could lead better result, I believe.

Now move to engine hood.
I decided to use Fujimi's engine hood, because I want to use PE louvers in the kit. The louvers' part didn't fit to Revell's (I tried and tried to fit the PE part to the Revell's without succeeding).
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6CNx2cnvI1s/UAFNRdrwiOI/AAAAAAAAAVc/eNKyJbX1nac/s1600/42.jpg
This is the PE louvers. It took a few hours to make them the same angles using the design knife.In the instruction Fujimi says it's 90 degree, but I think it'll be 45 degree.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yUWACvobRK8/UAFNLl24Y0I/AAAAAAAAAVM/ZiOy9bskX7A/s1600/38.jpg
Making the PE louvers 45 degrees, I had to thin up the hood part so that the tops of louvers come to the right place.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PVlmpH74DXs/UAFNPCIBt4I/AAAAAAAAAVU/hfceu9kHUbA/s1600/40.jpg
Since Fujimi's hood is shorter than the Revell's, I have to lengthen it.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Saba2OTIDqc/UAFNT5L1fCI/AAAAAAAAAVk/ON87vgMm2j4/s1600/44.jpg
I have not suffered in vain. The result is good!!!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-q8EPdGeCoRQ/UAFQ1-iqwAI/AAAAAAAAAVw/RFjWx-YPDok/s1600/68.jpg
I thought I have to edge up this line. I use masking tapes and sand up beside it.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HyLI7xQAlmc/UAFQ35eN-WI/AAAAAAAAAV4/CRGddfTmX60/s1600/70.jpg

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--MWKRGoD6aA/UAFTNIE-prI/AAAAAAAAAWA/xxlc-Cf53z0/s1600/72.jpg
For the louvers on front fenders, I used 0.3mm plastic papers. Firstly I fixed the side ribs and marked 11 dots to fit the louvers (real GTO has 11 louvers) . I put the middle dot firstly, then other dots by freehand.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d6Dc21WEDxI/UAFTO9p2Y_I/AAAAAAAAAWI/f4_5rmzRhuk/s1600/76.jpg

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o_42fORlw4o/UAFTSro0puI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/Ps3EnL1FSAs/s1600/78.jpg
It went bumpy when I did this work in the evening. So I discard them all once and retried in the afternoon in the sun. We need sunshine, indeed.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XgHppKtBBc4/UAFTcFLvfjI/AAAAAAAAAWY/0i4ax8RIEsA/s1600/79.jpg
Front bonnet. The curve for wipers are too wide, I realized. I applied 0.3mm plastic paper from the back then filled putty to narrow them.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-25LrmQQpApI/UAFTetnJ5iI/AAAAAAAAAWg/U21__lPGD1E/s1600/80.jpg
The louvers. The same process as front fender's. But to make them a bit curvy, the width of louvers are just a bit wider than the bonnet's.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OkrS1IrNuxE/UAFTiyyL-nI/AAAAAAAAAWw/Sc9Q01GxHnM/s1600/84.jpg
I am happy with the result.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gysVF_JKu70/UAFbMOb5d9I/AAAAAAAAAXU/RU1YB4Uv4ig/s1600/92.jpg


Body works last so long... seeing this thread it seems like I didn't take time so much, but until this page I took more than 2 month since starting. Especially "putty and sand again and again" takes time...

This is the first time to pursue the reality so deeply. But I believe this experiences improve me to do the same thing faster next time.

That all for today! Have a nice weekend :)

Superb modifications! I can't wait for the next updates :)

Superb modifications! I can't wait for the next updates :)

Thanks Rob, I bet you are one of the best modelers in the world and I am lucky and proud to have you in Australia!!!:smile:　
I can't wait to see your 935 turbo (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=928307), too. And I found any other jobs of you are beyond my word. I have ITALERI 250 GT California spider, seeing yours (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=677058) now I'm in a mood making it (but I am planning to replace its engine to GUNZE 250SWB... I have to think about it for a while).
I hope someday to look at your outstanding jobs with my eyes. I'll keep updates and working on my 288GTO.

I hope you're having nice, sunny Sunday:smile:

Just a quick and short post today... sorry I had a lot of things to do today and Monday is coming closer...

Inside the bonnet.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3frCAA4Zdzg/UALLErhUJQI/AAAAAAAAAYk/j5sXSftwJYE/s1600/48.jpg
I cut Fujimi's part...

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Nw_DIEvcn6U/UALLGmVnBGI/AAAAAAAAAYs/ryCMphnbqbs/s1600/50.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1JF9eLf_3kc/UALKy1qKm0I/AAAAAAAAAXg/EzgYvDQsSBQ/s1600/178.jpg
Ok, I can see the battery.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Xu3yK2V3oU/UALLLyZcxgI/AAAAAAAAAY8/uRoQR9SX8sA/s1600/54.jpg
The ducts are made from springs (they have wires in them), and equipments are made from plastic boards and rods.
Later on this picture, I replaced the radiator coolant tank to a bigger one.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ij1PcdWnFjg/UALK3evydgI/AAAAAAAAAXw/dKYYXv52_BI/s1600/208.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NL5eye8JsWw/UALK50JWoSI/AAAAAAAAAX4/pvbPFAvw_W0/s1600/210.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2r-xVcCRUFI/UALK7jgFe9I/AAAAAAAAAYA/rap0P-exmIM/s1600/212.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7k0UhcN-23A/UALLAEVFMzI/AAAAAAAAAYU/Est1eGx7f-I/s1600/216.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1hxP4DQgDmU/UALK-M6H1vI/AAAAAAAAAYI/VQ1YvQ1Hr7c/s1600/214.jpg
To replicate the radiator coolant inside the tank, I splayed light blue + white, then white + beige + thinner.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qAx-Q8R0UvE/UALK1YHgZ-I/AAAAAAAAAXo/Ei9WefqCWmE/s1600/206.jpg
As the spare tire part is too dull (you can see it left-up side in this picture), I cut the tire itself (from spare box of Fujimi GTO).

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QkbgdlMqAzE/UALLCsJQG4I/AAAAAAAAAYc/I03Fs74IX_o/s1600/218.jpg
... On these parts, I reckon I could do a bit better and made some mistakes, but I couldn't wait to proceed to engine section... (The belt for the spare tire will be fitted later once I found a good material.)

Sorry today's post is too rough, I know..... but please think it is better than nothing.:tongue:

Have a good night... :) zzzzz......

wow. you're the first person i've seen to simulate the coolant in its reservoir. very good attention to detail :)

Great work! The spare tire looks fantastic.

wow. you're the first person i've seen to simulate the coolant in its reservoir. very good attention to detail :)

Thanks nugundam93, my regular!!:wink:
I think it could be better to make the reservoir with clear plastic boards painted inside in light blue and white from outside:sadwavey:.
And, here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=928307&page=5) we can find astonishing job on reservoir: not only the reservoir:eek2:!
Anyway, I'm really enjoying making my GTO:) Please look forward to my next post.


Great work! The spare tire looks fantastic.

Thanks Emilssi, I was amazed with your fantastic jobs like this (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=6989709#post6989709) and this (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=970985), what clean mirror finish paints and enthusiastic details. (I posted a comment to your Boxster (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=6989709#post6989709), I am too afraid to make my Boxster in my stock after seeing your fantastic job...!:runaround:)

Oops, I've got to tell the progress on spare tire...
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-amzY9VVdRro/UAQCgpGoglI/AAAAAAAAAZI/K5Tgn_1e1TY/s1600/244.jpg
I painted the center of the spare tire wheel with MR. HOBBY's SM08 (PLATE SILVER NEXT). This is the first time to use it, I am so happy with the result!

See you next time :)

Radiator assemble....
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0Ic6f1UF2lQ/UAQEVHp2WXI/AAAAAAAAAZY/i7AMVt0N1jE/s1600/196.jpg
Of course I used Fujimi's PE. I thought twists were needed on the fins.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sQa4z5y-JlQ/UAQETGXyc2I/AAAAAAAAAZQ/Yl1aLtInXaQ/s1600/194.jpg
Because of the twists, bases were made and glued.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--7iK0233ao8/UAQEXUsT5nI/AAAAAAAAAZg/oJv23xTAjr8/s1600/198.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5cPohq6e8wo/UAQEZIVe0PI/AAAAAAAAAZo/rUDwqulF6kU/s1600/200.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xZRK1OY3z4s/UAQEcXFqxcI/AAAAAAAAAZ4/zC7m6vatD_Q/s1600/204.jpg
Regardless of my hard work, without any exact reasons but it seems like... not real. Even I can see it Katy Perry's bikini. Maybe I'll spray thinned flat black over these parts.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Dq4EwjSHWUQ/UAQEaxTKWpI/AAAAAAAAAZw/XbT6gagfesU/s1600/202.jpg
But the other side looks cool. I glued nickel silver rods (CA glue), after metal primer and semi-gross black applied.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-i_o9-uvGVf4/UAQEisOrkqI/AAAAAAAAAaI/N94zMLwKRNQ/s1600/242.jpg
Yes, it comes to the right position!
I'll sort out the bad shape of front intake, though.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7LCCQBc-Yck/UAQEkRJJoyI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/fsJKc0Azi-Y/s1600/246.jpg

It's a bit short today, but I'll go to bed...

Have a good night.... :tongue:

Fantasic Work

Fantasic Work

Thanks mrgixxer, your comment raise me up.:rofl:

I am looking forward to seeing your Land Rovers (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=909025)to be completed!!

Body work continues...
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iXnJN7pH1_g/UAU1F6UjxgI/AAAAAAAAAa4/cmf2LX9wmhY/s1600/56.jpg
A bit of works on doors. (0.5mm plastic board)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PDEazm8RLns/UAU1Lo7sVvI/AAAAAAAAAbI/n2jcnlCjaFE/s1600/62.jpg
Rims on windows are made from 0.3mm plastic papers x 3 plies. I'll try to sand 0.2mm clear plastic board as windows after a while.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kN6qHJcCCEU/UAU1OO9Ro0I/AAAAAAAAAbQ/Sk-27TmN4rs/s1600/64.jpg
I just temporary painted black on the rims to see the atmosphere. I reckon I should sand more to make them thinner.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6iAi0CHfqns/UAU06HWNoII/AAAAAAAAAag/qNkAThtNGBc/s1600/66.jpg
I checked the balance overall. It is going good, I reckon.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6B-xznzHdS0/UAU1VTjTTpI/AAAAAAAAAbg/vGfoKvWmFrk/s1600/88.jpg
Still a few works needed, but I feel fine with this body.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ex8GdDWeMJo/UAU1Djg9QZI/AAAAAAAAAaw/qrCITrDhrFE/s1600/102.jpg
Once again, these slits are edged up. After I got a good hexagonal mesh, I'll apply them.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6zVxU4m2AQ4/UAU1ZJF_B9I/AAAAAAAAAbw/w5cAderpzFI/s1600/94.jpg
Oooops....!!! The bottom of air intake under door chipped out.... I was nearly crying for 5 minutes:crying:.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pa4j3hRptTg/UAU1ajMWsNI/AAAAAAAAAb4/CpNnS7ozRVs/s1600/96.jpg
But I am too old to cry... I glued plastic papers on bottom.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OhVMgCkN1FM/UAU1ctDeUuI/AAAAAAAAAcA/jgt_9-LcGRY/s1600/98.jpg
Then another paper on body and cut on the brown line shown on this picture.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jKfA7gEuo5Q/UAVBbVtwztI/AAAAAAAAAcM/6uPckfa6VCQ/s1600/100.jpg
I feel fine now, though a bot of sanding needed.

Now head to engine bay!!
I'll use Fujimi's engine parts.
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7DyAf-67tx8/UAVB2faBJOI/AAAAAAAAAcc/p9jJ5CDSUgA/s1600/104.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FosZ_BLO-jI/UAVBzw_s8QI/AAAAAAAAAcU/_6jFQzBWz-M/s1600/103.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yt04Db5gdEI/UAVB3ujkr5I/AAAAAAAAAck/ckpp0X__Iz4/s1600/106.jpg
These white parts are from 0.3mm plastic boards. These works are the matter of patience. I've got lots of tries and errors.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pzR02ALzODA/UAVB5MHJueI/AAAAAAAAAcs/4m4jn9CfG9I/s1600/108.jpg
This is the nut part on the white parts above. 4lbs fishing line are coiled and glued with CA glue on 0.5mm nickel silver rod. Good fusion of my hobbies...!!!

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SISgKv4xG74/UAVB7i3jfOI/AAAAAAAAAc0/_nJDRL4WHkA/s1600/110.jpg
Still lots of tries and errors.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dv1jMoQJTTY/UAVB9f25DaI/AAAAAAAAAc8/cArde3WKv8E/s1600/111.jpg
OK, I feel good.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5OOIdwNUsKw/UAVB_d0TbpI/AAAAAAAAAdE/6KbhHMau0wI/s1600/113.jpg
White ones are 0.5mm plastic rods. And the small Ferrari logo was cut from MUSEUM COLLECTION PE (http://peaceloveandmodelcars.blogspot.com.au/2012/07/ferrari-288gto-revell-fujimi-7-work-in.html). This is one of the most important sｙmbols of 288GTO, but this Fujimi's part doesn't have it (EDITED: Fujimi's box had inlet mark for it, I found the very tiny Ferrari logo much later).

That's all for today, thanks for looking!! :wink:

WIP threads that can be used as reference are the best thing about AF.

Keep it coming!

WIP threads that can be used as reference are the best thing about AF.

Keep it coming!

Thanks drunken monkey, I was looking your amazing works in AF. I can't take the photo of my models on the white paper like you, because it enhances my bad jobs...:crying: I mean, your works are just, just splendid!!! Your 288GTO (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1053228) really moved me, I like your paint work and detailed engine, and... everything! I can learn so much from your works.

OK, let's start posting for today now.:sunglasse

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0ZsWsTMy-rI/UAavc2M6mXI/AAAAAAAAAdQ/ig8sy6AJ-Wo/s1600/114.jpg
I chose and pealed the smallest cavallinos from HOBBY DESIGN 1/24 Ferrari Metal Logo (B) for 512BB & 288GTO & 250GTO (HD01-0023); The third photo in this post.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bKsXFR7nSZ4/UAavhAf6YvI/AAAAAAAAAdY/yKwyuM6ZreM/s1600/116.jpg
3 ribs were pealed from this injection head parts (don't say the real one has 2 ribs left, mate!) because of the size of the cavallinos. Then the prancing horses are glued with clear bond. This glue can be replaced to woodwork bond, I reckon...?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kx9dp1FctLI/UAavjt57z5I/AAAAAAAAAdg/qH3Qd1IXLIY/s1600/118.jpg
This is the one, the HOBBY DESIGN's logo set.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Zccxgx5g3uM/UAav7alkm6I/AAAAAAAAAeY/H0kXOlTrm54/s1600/132.jpg
Flat red was applied. I use the old brush to paint these part to replicate rough surface. After this photo, once again I tapped with semi-dried semi-gross red (complicated expression?).

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ym0D2EcPWaU/UAavm5R5VII/AAAAAAAAAdo/EM1wVBSTJUE/s1600/120.jpg
I felt this oil filter was a bit too small.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6LRHq8RdGxM/UAavqrminQI/AAAAAAAAAdw/2yKL9chTNZc/s1600/122.jpg
So I replaced to a runner to make it thicker. I used CA glue to make rounded head.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-c8pbaLmr3wQ/UAavxcCyM_I/AAAAAAAAAd4/fTId20AntQs/s1600/124.jpg
The chassis number plate was applied. This is from Fujimi's box and it was not the chassis number plate actually, but there was no choice because I didn't have it. If it gives atmosphere, I feel fine here. It is just a tiny part and I can hardly read it..!! The flames of PE plate were cut after this photo.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iIWIrqKBLUE/UAavzwcoX4I/AAAAAAAAAeA/mgui0bWjjng/s1600/126.jpg
Red plug cords were applied with black CA glue. I used ancient MODELER's 0.45mm plug cords, but I bet you can find several types of cords. This was a really troublesome, frustrating tiny work... Of course lots of tries and errors were there.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VF6WWIYTqd8/UAav2XYDMAI/AAAAAAAAAeI/o_s1llbzRko/s1600/128.jpg
I was wondering if I would use these tiny, small stays of inter coolers, but seeing the trial on above, there was no choice but used them.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UZVzEsyl5Kw/UAav5lMLicI/AAAAAAAAAeQ/kKOazQyEAH0/s1600/130.jpg
I applied all the PE parts on left. The difference was really big. The PE parts were painted in flat silver after this photo.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t3_2u7rmo_0/UAav9kIPpeI/AAAAAAAAAeg/2kfT7CZKL6U/s1600/134.jpg
2 pries of 0.3mm plastic paper was applied on differential box, because I felt discomfort to the original parts.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ONekiYvvizA/UAawHqxflfI/AAAAAAAAAe4/1YmdFDsaS5E/s1600/140.jpg
This is how I paint the rough surface. Semi-dried paint was applied on bｒush and I tapped on the parts.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FAo3l0z2D5E/UAawERWjEfI/AAAAAAAAAew/fvIjIvghgvM/s1600/138.jpg
I used the same method on these parts.


Now I've got to go to bed.... Thanks for looking always and see you tomorrow, guys!!! :wink:

always a pleasure to see your work here, umihito. not only do we see what you did, but a good explanation on how you did it (even though i can only dream of having the same skill set to do the same thing, LOL). looking forward to more updates from you :)

always a pleasure to see your work here, umihito. not only do we see what you did, but a good explanation on how you did it (even though i can only dream of having the same skill set to do the same thing, LOL). looking forward to more updates from you :)

Thanks, my regular!! Actually it is not the matter of skill, but of the equipments, patience, and how I like the car:wink: I didn't do the same thing to other cars but to this 288GTO, and I have never thought I would do these kind of detailed works before I started this project. I am the one who is surprised that I am doing these kind of detailed works...!!:rofl:

Hi, thanks god it'll be Friday tomorrow :)
Post for today!

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MhjoRNGk-j8/UAfReOtpKII/AAAAAAAAAgE/ZuvinLxgN3E/s1600/144.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uWFWeU1MhOc/UAfRgjcF2MI/AAAAAAAAAgM/D8TgKrw2KMI/s1600/146.jpg
Nuts and "burnt" color (mixture of TAMIYA enamel clear orange, flat black, clear and flat base; I can't remember the ratios, but maybe 8:8:8:1, I used the brush) were applied to the exhaust pipes.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TCasi7UWwUo/UAfRiAAV_KI/AAAAAAAAAgU/MziQYITF6V0/s1600/148.jpg
I don't even know what this part is for, but I thought I needed to make this. They are, maybe 1.5mm (2mm?) plastic rods and the blue pipe is my daughter's broken hair band; light blue applied.
And the hose clip is from KA Models, also insect pin as the nut which was cut after this photo.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1gPNkJMXP8o/UAfRjWa0TSI/AAAAAAAAAgc/89sfmGmxebA/s1600/149.jpg
I believe this part gives mechanical atmosphere to the engine bay. Please someone, tell me what this pipe is for and where the blue hose goes???

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AsIRt84XQGY/UAfRl6OmLLI/AAAAAAAAAgk/X0qaswdguQM/s1600/150.jpg
Plug covers were from 0.7mm (inside is 0.5mm) brass rods so that I could put 0.5mm plug codes and painted in black.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-35MosujrMbQ/UAfRn0ov0lI/AAAAAAAAAgs/rOVDLjQ_gBQ/s1600/152.jpg
This is Fujimi's frame. To be fitted horizontally to Revell's chassis, 0.3mm plastic boards were fitted; white part.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DtDrWmPg7FU/UAfRpwaqb3I/AAAAAAAAAg0/Pfm-m8VPC6c/s1600/154.jpg
...Once I started to use the insect pins, I became insect pins addicted. The black hose was from price tug bands attached to my daughter's shoes. Maybe some hair bands have the same textures.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n100NS_nJeA/UAfRsylfkkI/AAAAAAAAAg8/JWfP-CRObwQ/s1600/156.jpg
Using plastic rod and the bands... (small holes were applied on rods so that I could attach the bands easily with CA glue.)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C-4uY4fSAS0/UAfRv8Aal0I/AAAAAAAAAhE/K1p91jL6BTU/s1600/158.jpg
Now you can see what this part is for. I used the same bands for both sides of the rod. The silver lines are aluminum foils and silver paints.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zvBTGhmmQew/UAfRxwvbkwI/AAAAAAAAAhM/B2zUIxL5vxw/s1600/160.jpg
Fujimi has this part actually, but this time it could not be fitted in because it was too short (also because I adjusted the bank angles. Fujimi's instruction says their angles are vertical, but I believe they incline a bit to outsides).

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wipK6GNP6II/UAfR6q080hI/AAAAAAAAAhs/7yecDA_SL0w/s1600/170.jpg
Fuel injection pipes were inserted as shown on top in this picture. It took more than an hour to set and adjust the plug codes to the brass rods (plug covers).

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2lFl9QoNq50/UAfR5IkUU7I/AAAAAAAAAhk/qZ3RBpgUz7A/s1600/169.jpg
Radiator hoses (?maybe) had dull molds, so I carved it to be seen as two hoses.

Please someone tell me, where the long red code as shown in the bottom in this picture goes to??? ( Is it actually needed???)

Oops, I haven't mentioned about exhaust pipes from engine.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fEkhP2XgNrc/UAffzscFnxI/AAAAAAAAAiA/7xkISOGGRKk/s1600/136.jpg
No wonder Revell's exhaust pipe looks better. so I did lots of cuts and pastes to fit it to Fujimi's engine.
(...I reckon the engine won't get high power with Fujimi's exhaust pipe.)

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-19jkDPk-C_0/UAfR3gpwidI/AAAAAAAAAhc/1UYVtrqb2U4/s1600/163.jpg
The engine was temporary set in the frame to raise my spirit. Wow, they look really cool!!!

But I found the bolt on the frame that you can see on right-top was not in the right place seeing this picture. I fixed it after this photo. It is good to take photos to find mistakes that my old bare eyes couldn't find..

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kXo1i6vkEiI/UAfkXzTwPxI/AAAAAAAAAiM/jqLm5QEzTQc/s1600/P5251240.jpg
For this part, I used the insect pins for 4 nuts, metal seal from Fujimi's box (actually it was for head cover, but I didn't use it for that purpose) and the biggest bolt was from ancient MODELER's plugs & connectors sets. If I didn't have the MODELER's sets, I would use... well, some machined bolts, I would find.

That's all for today. Thanks for looking!! Looking forward to the weekend...:iceslolan

you do have a good point there - if you like the model you're building, you'll definitely make it your best...until you find your next favorite car, that is. LOL!

nice updates, btw. :)

Still I'm looking forward to the answers where are the hoses goes to... I know it'll be a difficult question though.

Post for today:wink:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fv878bNwJN4/UAlJuxNP3WI/AAAAAAAAAiY/4CFK9ag__24/s1600/171.jpg
Heat shields under the inter coolers were made from 0.3mm plastic paper.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7HbF254yWH4/UAlJxcZ1e5I/AAAAAAAAAig/RcYDqnqQTWE/s1600/172.jpg
The hose clamps (KA models) were also attached.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KOmkgZfXA5A/UAlJ0TmCJNI/AAAAAAAAAio/a3w2U3AvPeY/s1600/173.jpg
The band (same as the last post ones) was applied to this part. Connector parts were from ancient MODELER'S plugs and connectors set and plastic rod.

Still, I don't know where this black pipe goes....

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UkQ0H5OWfX0/UAlJ3YF5KrI/AAAAAAAAAi4/b2xGcXTGoIc/s1600/176-2.jpg
Every pipe has nickel silver rod or pin hole to be settled together in proper position. Without this works, I don't think I could assemble these pipes with enough strength. These rods were also convenience when painting. Of course they were cut short when assemble.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-brMb_6QdNwE/UAlJ2KM80WI/AAAAAAAAAiw/Bx3SfKmc7r8/s1600/175.jpg
Hose clamps were from ancient MODELER'S "Metalook". Of course we can find several foils like this now.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2zNYt2AYkDk/UAlJ_HCIvuI/AAAAAAAAAjY/L0tG-vlRSbU/s1600/176.jpg
These were also troublesome and irritating works:banghead:, but now I got used to these kind of works. Once you think 1/3 to 1/2 of trials will be the mistakes, you would never give up when making mistakes.:sunglasse

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XJIzpbygAf4/UAlJ5GQUqDI/AAAAAAAAAjA/67PAuye2p_s/s1600/176-3.jpg
Plastic rods were applied and cut to set the inter coolers horizontally. Heights and stay positions adjustments were needed.

For the piping, I decided to set the inter coolers firstly, because those are the most impressive parts in the engine room and have to be settled in proper positions. Then the other pipes were adjusted according to the inter cooler's positions. Of course there were lots of cuts and pastes on the pipes.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RD6RGzQfb80/UAlJ6Y5rZwI/AAAAAAAAAjI/8FFfI8BLol8/s1600/176-4.jpg
I checked the position not to touch the engine hood. It was OK.

...Sorry, I didn't take any photos during the piping, since I was too serious to assemble them.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dpnGpdKotzs/UAlKD0J5uWI/AAAAAAAAAjo/iud4MqPi4EU/s1600/181-2.jpg
This is an accent (yellow parts; from plastic rod and paper), though I don't know what this is for. The pipe itself was cut short to be set in.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YxGb_rvTuBY/UAlJ9SK5cMI/AAAAAAAAAjQ/tRwaoqzOHdU/s1600/176-5.jpg
Other pipes were applied. Nickel silver rods, brass pipes, steel wire, plastic rods and so on. I made holes for every pipes to be settled. Sorry, I know this expression is too rough but I was concentrating too much to take pictures.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xn9Q7uXasbo/UAlKBXPtl3I/AAAAAAAAAjg/p46-YmwxXDY/s1600/180.jpg
The black pipe from gearbox is from MODELER'S plug hose (painted in black).

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Ack8q42oiuk/UAldA-ByOEI/AAAAAAAAAj8/wxUYrrz_OY4/s1600/176-6.jpg
The progress so far.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-FJ1X40GN1ww/UAlbTwOUNHI/AAAAAAAAAj0/5A7AMrDID1o/s1600/179.jpg
The looks through louvers... cool..!!! I was reworded for the hard works.

That's all for today. Have a nice weekend!! :rofl:

Let's start today's post:)

Sorry for low definition for first 4 photos, 'cause I couldn't connect my camera to my PC and I had to take those photos from the camera's screen.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-U6Tm5__DUKc/UAp20GxpvEI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/6lww_zaJyoE/s1600/P7211556.jpg
Air cleaner units are from Revell. I believe Fujimi's (left, gray one) has more accuracy, but Fujimis' didn't fit to the air intakes of engine hood because of their sizes. But I thought I could do something to Revell's parts. Firstly I cut them with saws...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RgNSqw8MdoA/UAp23fkaW2I/AAAAAAAAAkY/VWZKG6ybCAE/s1600/P7211557.jpg
then drilled inside, glued and reshaped with sand paper after this photo.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5iTx-mSxe-A/UAp283Ccr3I/AAAAAAAAAkg/sIuOfrm4hnQ/s1600/P7211563.jpg
and the pipes are from Fujimi. You can see the hole at the end of the pipe above. I set the rod to be inserted on another pipe to be set to this hole, I didn't take its picture though.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ICzet80ej34/UAp3BbJwb8I/AAAAAAAAAko/QVTYJtUXzQw/s1600/P7211565.jpg
This crumpled aluminum foil (just the kitchen foil) was for heat shield plates beside the air cleaners. This was applied on 0.3mm plastic paper with CA glue, but it was still easy to be removed... Maybe some epoxy glue could be better?? (I kept going 'cause I didn't have epoxy glue, besides I should only be carefully)

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--wOEXEXoHjg/UAp2v81PuBI/AAAAAAAAAkI/nqScMrYp89M/s1600/177.jpg
The heat shield on the back (PE parts) was cut short to be fitted in Revell's body.
* To settle the pipes; sons of a gun, I used clear bond (http://www.bond.co.jp/bond/diy/detail.php) to set temporally then CA glue with CA glue hardener spray (http://www.hobby-wave.com/LINE_UP/materials/data/gp07_kst/index.html) (sorry the link is Japanese, but I believe you can find several types of same kinds). Without them, I could hardly assemble the pipes, I reckon.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_MjKb3-5alo/UAqBLI3SvBI/AAAAAAAAAk0/i6dimKOH_0Q/s1600/178.jpg
I glued and removed the air cleaners maybe 3-4 times to set them in proper positions.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-by8zwxzbn_4/UAqWT6wxQqI/AAAAAAAAAl8/CBuJmpCigqc/s1600/181.jpg
This picture is of the last one (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1076240)'s I made. It's clean, but I feel it's so called... simple. I indeed reckon, I got a progress (just slowly).

At this stage I felt engine itself was done.


But I felt something was still left...... even I tried not to even think about it.
That was......

Throttle levers.......

I firstly (at the time I was starting this project) thought they would be omitted feeling they were beyond my skill. but I couldn't help thinking about it at this stage. But there was very small spaces left to set them in....


I considered, thought and thought, worried and worried, but I decided.
My answer was....,
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rTKsSk1xUKk/UAqdW6Mm77I/AAAAAAAAAmY/dJtSmhnKTZk/s1600/182.jpg
0.3mm plastic board and 0.3mm nickel silver rod was prepared for the throttle lever.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7gY7eywHwB4/UAqc_fT64cI/AAAAAAAAAmI/z0zIsrmKqDQ/s1600/304.jpg
Centre part was from 1mm(?) plastic rod. Seeing this picture, the surface was a bit rough but please consider this was just 7-8mm part and would be painted over. Besides, I can hardly look at it being covered by fuel injection system (I know this is my excuse).

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OPITQ2aoIUY/UAqBW2qfWeI/AAAAAAAAAlU/D4HwoThQYPE/s1600/306.jpg
The throttles themselves were from brass rods (flattened by the pliers), and the rods were 0.3mm nickel silver rods. The brass rods were so easy to be cut, flatten and bent because of their softness.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mm14yBH3vHU/UAqBYZ2DAyI/AAAAAAAAAlc/iCaE-rwOhb4/s1600/308.jpg
I used the "G clear bond then CA glue with hardener" method here, too. The top on throttle was cut from 0.7mm brass rod.
It was a very hard job to set these tiny parts in very very tiny space after the settlement of all other parts. I nearly showed the finger in the process with lots of tries and errors, to be honest.

But now, I feel just terrific !!

That's it for today, my bros!! :wink:

Post for today :)

Assembling the shock absorbers.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rUIaqsXJ8qs/UAvuZeT9wJI/AAAAAAAAApY/Ao8jT78rP2w/s1600/220.jpg
I replaced the spring section to 0.3mm nickel silver rod, the dumper to 3mm plastic pipe and 1mm brass rod. Just because I thought these works were as easy as masking and painting, and would lead a much better result. (This picture is for the front suspensions)

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_79vC2P0ROY/UAvt1iIOFEI/AAAAAAAAAoo/2wXz1tfzFTg/s1600/221.jpg
I coiled the nickel silver rod to plastic pipe, then stretched and cut to a certain length.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PN0gzMesLrw/UAvt3LedtVI/AAAAAAAAAow/baiV1axcA9s/s1600/222.jpg
Then painted in these colors.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VEHtGn4NtOg/UAvt4SlGKRI/AAAAAAAAAo4/hPwMd3vRvcU/s1600/223.jpg
I didn't glued the brass rod and pipe but only the end of the spring so that this part has the mobility to fit in the right place without adjustments of its length. Right one is the original part.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vwtOwQdV5F4/UAvt42syYuI/AAAAAAAAApA/3pD2MWH9Mv4/s1600/224.jpg
And the rear ones.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a_Y05kvbWYQ/UAvt68iziwI/AAAAAAAAApI/7RtLVgj2gxc/s1600/227.jpg
The rear shock absorbers were fitted. I had been afraid if they would obstruct the air cleaner pipes, but they didn't. Lucky me. The upper arms and the brake system sections are from Fujimi. Fitting the tires and looking the balance with the body, I tried several times to fit them to the right place.


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gOoVsrUOgxw/UAv453HyXnI/AAAAAAAAApw/Diwar7ohrTE/s1600/256.jpg
The process of fitting rear wheels... at the beginning, the wheels came outside and forward.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pNXSnNjeb9I/UAv5rFGAdpI/AAAAAAAAAqY/0-31y4Eurwo/s1600/252.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B1AKHrP9oi0/UAv46wMlr1I/AAAAAAAAAp4/sP3Xh1JGQv0/s1600/258.jpg
So I had to peel off the brake disks so that I could shorten the width of the centre part on this picture. I should do this before I glue and paint these parts properly... but I don't care to redo the same jobs.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HCWU2bDPz7A/UAv47kiLcHI/AAAAAAAAAqA/XFe1-68yITQ/s1600/260.jpg
And this part had to be cut short to fit the shorten part on picture above.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgObo8cBFUo/UAv49D9kElI/AAAAAAAAAqI/s4vQfVe6Zy0/s1600/262.jpg
The shapes of the brake disks deformed by being peeled off. I used these clips to set the discs while the glue dried out.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R9TWRiA0XMU/UAv4-TZPxnI/AAAAAAAAAqQ/YLeFVdEkqRA/s1600/268.jpg
I use "Post-it" papers to adjust the heights. The suspension parts were glued just a bit backward. The wheels were set to preferable positions.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PYymF0saEck/UAvt9XBpamI/AAAAAAAAApQ/Xm1_EaSw9R8/s1600/229.jpg
Being applied lots of cuts, pastes and removals cycles, some paints were getting bold. I have to treat them later on.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tb6rDShk0t4/UAv2KhpnTYI/AAAAAAAAApk/oYPAByn1XyM/s1600/228.jpg
Some decals have to be applied, but almost of all jobs were done on this section. I enjoyed so much (It was a hard time as well).
Don't you think GTO's engine is really beautiful, do you?

Thanks for looking and see you next time :wink:

What an excellent work are you doing here Umihito. You're techniques are clearly written in your WIP, thanks for that. Though I'm no Ferrari enthousiast I will follow your amazing work.

Eric

Thanks for your "thanks", eugene7 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=556269) . I was amazed by your BMW507 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1063358) , if I were the owner of the real car, I would buy it for more than 5K! :wink:

What an excellent work are you doing here Umihito. You're techniques are clearly written in your WIP, thanks for that. Though I'm no Ferrari enthousiast I will follow your amazing work.

Eric

Thanks for your comment, Eric :) I am really looking forward to seeing your 911S to be completed!! I respect your sense of capturing the shapes. I found your work on 935 Turbo (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1057063) is stunning!! I can't believe it is a quick build, it contains lots of modifying....!

Today I got drunk having met my good old friend.... I'll post tomorrow, sorry...!!:icon16:

Sorry for yesterday, I still had hangover this morning (but of course I went to work).
Now I'm fine and let's start the post today!

Assembly of front suspension section.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--CKUG2z1EuE/UA5-0uchQGI/AAAAAAAAAsU/DSzjpmWwPso/s1600/238-1.jpg
Mainly out of box of Fujimi. I of course used PE brake disks. The gates (seam lines?) on parts were treated after this photo... taking photos, lots of mistakes are shown on them.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-p3Igfoyloi8/UA6IiG_oTzI/AAAAAAAAAsg/0aMfERtLpa0/s1600/238-3.jpg
To fit into the width of Revell's body, I sanded this parts about 1mm on top and the second-top to set the brake disks in narrower position. Mmmm, hard to explain. Anyway, I had to make the width narrower about 2mm in total.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TbU5i68NsGY/UA57Mvc1w2I/AAAAAAAAAsE/teaMVQX9Vaw/s1600/238-2.jpg
On top of battery, I attached EVER GREEN "H" plastic strip. I cut it in the shape of "T" then applied. On each end, I put insect pins. And the codes (MODELER'S 0.45mm) applied.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J_5vlz12oBQ/UA52S67Dv8I/AAAAAAAAAqs/6q_DAx5CIXM/s1600/238.jpg
Now ready to temporary set to the chassis.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mK6Chf6uRZs/UA52VBWeQZI/AAAAAAAAAq0/1dplnrGVSo8/s1600/239.jpg
PE brake disk and modified suspension gives good atmosphere.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rs2qM1Efbks/UA59kdCycPI/AAAAAAAAAsM/a2wN3Slz2Ks/s1600/240.jpg
The battery came to the right place. Inside the battery, I set a small magnet so that the rid (it also has a magnet) can be settled without glues.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9owVECvsDrQ/UA52XYM5n3I/AAAAAAAAAq8/Z36tXY7g850/s1600/264.jpg
The height of front section was adjusted by sanding the chassis.

Today's post is a bit short... sorry I feel so sleepy now ;)

See you later... :)

love that engine bay with all the details. :)

Sorry for having day off...

I thought I have to treat the gaps around front bonnet.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nBOde67Zqrw/UBO3B4yENQI/AAAAAAAAAtM/_bgKmmvp_7Y/s1600/235.jpg
I glued 0.3mm plastic papers on both sides, then fulled the normal putty.


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QC10oNHqsv4/UBO3DMikcFI/AAAAAAAAAtU/2upbFzp8PFk/s1600/236.jpg
You can see the difference of colors on right and left edges. Don't say I've got to treat them earlier. (Of course I should)

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iT4de6dmYTo/UBO3AqoC5KI/AAAAAAAAAtE/dKa9R_gleDc/s1600/234.jpg
Then I applied moving section on bonnet. This picture is the temporary one, I will cut the upper excess parts on bonnet.

Followings are how I made these moving parts.
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ok-QywjFZ70/UBO28HvF2PI/AAAAAAAAAss/yyUnIkxoG5s/s1600/231.jpg
I made 0.5mm hole in a 0.7mm plastic board, then inserted the 0.5mm brass pipe. This part will be glued to the body. From my experience, this part should be as front as you can, so that the moving width would be bigger (so that the body and the bonnet wouldn't hit each other).

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S5nLzxioRf0/UBO29g9Ly1I/AAAAAAAAAs0/RDpwYBu3rq4/s1600/232.jpg
This (right small one) is the part on bonnet. The 0.5mm nickel silver rod will be inserted into the pin hole. I am using the number plate part from Fujimi's box, just thinking it is thicker than 0.5mm plastic board.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KIiJIkiB9VI/UBO7jB9eOeI/AAAAAAAAAuI/IE1GaxarMrs/s1600/230.jpg
I made lots of tries and errors on this stays (0.5mm nickel silvers). If they were too narrow, the bonnet and the body hit. If they were to large, the bonnet wasn't fit in the right place...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dB5H7dJZdS0/UBO2_DTSTgI/AAAAAAAAAs8/JfG4FN-DjDY/s1600/233.jpg
After some attempt, I found the right place to fit them in. Now I think I could use 0.7mm rods and more thick pipes for more strength, but I don't have guts to redo this job now.


Move to body modifying..
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KnXm9umEghQ/UBO-UvQSGYI/AAAAAAAAAu8/tjFknB4c4Ps/s1600/284.jpg
I should do this works earlier, now I can tell.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Qh8A3TgIVZM/UBO-WaQzXJI/AAAAAAAAAvE/4OCwJR8PHL8/s1600/286.jpg
Using 0.5mm plastic board...

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-alxem23Cp5Y/UBO-aVF_6mI/AAAAAAAAAvU/IgSzyFO8XUs/s1600/292.jpg

Then glued and sanded to the right shapes.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0xQohie-aqY/UBO-Yv7swzI/AAAAAAAAAvM/sDRCb7QA6-k/s1600/290.jpg
These parts are not only the gum packing inside the doors, but also they give strength to the body. Oh, I should make the ceiling parts as well... still long way to go.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0m0JUPLjSi4/UBPBeUWY5_I/AAAAAAAAAwI/-JAVAcAeQmI/s1600/300.jpg
The interior tub had to be sanded to fit in the packing parts. Again, I should do this job earlier to make things easier.
Anyway, things are proceeding little by little :)

That's all for today, have a nice Sunday!! :wink:

Happy Monday? Let's start today's posting.

Revell's interior tub looks fairly good, especially the foot mat's detail. But it seems to me too square. So I decided to make the mat from scratch.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2TKz83WPOKQ/UBZVu86oxpI/AAAAAAAAAw8/IEu5H0PqY4k/s1600/296.jpg
Firstly, I replicate the shape of mat to silicon replicator.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2LYJWqNm_Fc/UBZVypOAA4I/AAAAAAAAAxE/iAkWeX2SRms/s1600/298.jpg
I filled the black CA glue with glue hardener. These were so fragile, so I made some spares.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L29INlzWKzM/UBZV0C1SqUI/AAAAAAAAAxM/dPcB_11GgC0/s1600/348.jpg
They were applied onto the 0.3mm plastic paper (edge curved)

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GKRbQGhHomo/UBZV437z0oI/AAAAAAAAAxc/mrLiXWm5xJ0/s1600/356.jpg
Then KA MODELS Flocking powder (soft gray) was applied. To apply, I coated the woodwork bond (diluted with water) on the preferable area, then sprinkled the powder by fingers.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uykvKwubJuc/UBZV1TeA4OI/AAAAAAAAAxU/aRDE8vOKfMY/s1600/355.jpg
These white plastic papers are to fill up the gaps between interior and engine bay. I traced the rear window, body's pillar and the side walls. Without these, I could see the engine bay from the cabin (I couldn't believe it, but Fujimi has also the same problem!).

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9QfXYUglSbs/UBZV8O1l5II/AAAAAAAAAxk/cl58MlDJW24/s1600/358.jpg
I applied the colors onto the flocking powder. Floor and back of seats are flat black, the higher part is flat gray (black and white). The colors were diluted with thinner to spread to flocking powder easily and evenly.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HoIqEe6FsPU/UBZmVBvPfII/AAAAAAAAAyY/85xuZxROhO8/s1600/398.jpg
These pedals are from Fujimi's box. The surface of pedals are PE parts from Fujimi's box as well.
The top of the part was cut because it hit the Revell's body.

That's all for today :)
It's still Monday, but still enjoying my life...! :iceslolan

Sweet progress.

Great job! It is a real pleasure to watch.

Maybe you already know this site: http://www.eurospares.co.uk/index.asp
Check the spare parts catalogue for your GTO and it might help you with some issues, like what goes where. =)

Good luck with your project.

great update!

btw, is that oyumaru that you're using to duplicate parts?

Sweet progress.

Thanks for your comment! I'll someday try race car with lots of decal like your Opel Astra (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=967283).

Great job! It is a real pleasure to watch.

Maybe you already know this site: http://www.eurospares.co.uk/index.asp
Check the spare parts catalogue for your GTO and it might help you with some issues, like what goes where. =)

Good luck with your project.

Thanks so much!!!!!! I didn't know that site.:runaround: It really helps me. I couldn't help watching every page for hours... I've got to know a bit earlier, but I don't mind..! I'll fix some of my jobs:sunglasse
And, I found your Malibu (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1062738http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1062738) , it's cool!!

great update!

btw, is that oyumaru that you're using to duplicate parts?

Hi, my regular!! Oh, you know OYUMARU. I am using KATADORIKUN (http://www.plarepair.net/katadori.htm), but I think it's similar one :).

Just a quick report of small progress :)

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uodCL4wT2k8/UBfN0WZuhMI/AAAAAAAAAzg/wW3EX8UsCQE/s1600/399.jpg
I made seats rails from EVER GREEN "H" rod (cut to "T" shape).
And the stays are cut out of square rods.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XLDaH5qontw/UBfN3U0od_I/AAAAAAAAAzw/oFekK3KVo5I/s1600/401.jpg
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JFfTUDaAZmA/UBfN15VWQjI/AAAAAAAAAzo/7xOQhd2dMvs/s1600/400.jpg
The rails were applied by normal plastic cement; Tamiya's, fitted with the rails of following picture's seat.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u6vutWDz7bY/UBfN4rruQSI/AAAAAAAAAz4/ugzaCcMYJ4M/s1600/402.jpg
I cut the "H" rods to "C" shapes this time. These "C" shapes mate to "T" shapes.

I chose Fujimi's seats, but I am planning to modify the seats' shapes. I feel both (Fujimi & Revell) of the seats seem like very hard and uncomfortable.... so I'll try to express the feeling of softness. Modifying of the seats will be the last thing to do, while the body paint dries out.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MtdbTc9RtTQ/UBfNxiMLbxI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/xAUGukG1fRM/s1600/364.jpg
These small magnets were set in the seats. And I dug rectangle dents under the chassis below the seats and put the magnets without glues; movable, so that the seat can be detachable and move forward and backward (to fit to my short legs:screwy:??). I'll be able to see the engine from the cabin detaching the seats and engine cover :)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3O4fav1BoQk/UBfNyjGn5bI/AAAAAAAAAzY/DkJl08t50UA/s1600/366.jpg
I could easily set the magnets 'cause the seats had already rooms for magnet underneath :) I applied 0.5mm plastic boards from the bottom.

So far so good... See you later!

Thanks for your "thanks", eugene7 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=556269) . I was amazed by your BMW507 (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1063358) , if I were the owner of the real car, I would buy it for more than 5K! :wink:
Thank you Umihito! I don't follow WIP threads on AF very closely and don't write too many comments, but I just keep being amazed by the quality of your work. The level of detail you put into this model is extraordinary, and the descriptions are very clear. I learn something from every post.

yours is the first build i've ever seen to put adjustable seats. nice!

i used to use kataomoi for duplicating parts but of course it got old and tough and couldn't mold well so tried looking for a replacement. 1999.co.jp and rainbowten didn't have em in stock anymore and fortunately, a friend recommended oyumaru and best of all, a shop at a local mall sells a ton of them. :)

Stunning work! I've marked your thread as reference, very helpful and informative! Love the insaneness for accuracy. Keep it up!

Wow this is impressive! Thanks for all the pix and information - so much for me to learn!

I love the idea of using magnets for some parts to avoid making parts permanent! this is amazing work I cant wait for the next updates!

Stunning work! I've marked your thread as reference, very helpful and informative! Love the insaneness for accuracy. Keep it up!

Thanks so much for cheering up! You also helped me to put the pictures up to AF:smile: I envy your skills, especially on paints..! I bet your mini cooper (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=536868)is the best one I've ever seen!! I'd like to know what you chose for the rims of head lights.

Wow this is impressive! Thanks for all the pix and information - so much for me to learn!

Thanks for your comment!! I feel so happy to hear from you, from the first post of mine!

I love the idea of using magnets for some parts to avoid making parts permanent! this is amazing work I cant wait for the next updates!

Thanks for your comment!! Receiving the comments, I can feel someone is looking at my thread:iceslolan!

Today's Friday!
I had a bit of alcohol... but I'm in the mood of posting. I may make lots of mistakes on glamor, no, grammar.

Assembling the dashboard.

I thought and thought... and I decided to use Revell's dashboard, because the 3 meter's (fuel, temperatures) atmosphere seemed better and I thought that Fujimi's meters couldn't be modified easily on that part.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gsaowDj6aDA/UBvGld-6L9I/AAAAAAAAA1k/S8dJRICvB9U/s1600/316.jpg
Firstly, I sanded the meter cover (over the console) to round shape.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rwmlckaCaxw/UBvFGfMM1eI/AAAAAAAAA08/sXENxOyyDJM/s1600/322.jpg
I dug the hall on console panel. The outlets of air conditioner on right and left were dug by the scraper (free hand was the best way). PE from Fujimi's box will be used on 3 outlets on centre (you can see on the left one).

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x-DcQbVWBPo/UBvFI_vJX-I/AAAAAAAAA1E/8Tt9orCn0KE/s1600/324.jpg
For the digging, I usually use these kind of tools. Left one is Hasegawa's scraper and right is rotary tool (0.5mm drill attached).

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LK2-xz7R78A/UBvGx5AONxI/AAAAAAAAA1s/JA1YJxvhGX0/s1600/334.jpg
Left bottom is Fujimi's PE, centre is Fujimi's meter panel (holes applied) and right one is 0.3mm plastic paper (Revell's meter decals were cut and applied; ). Between the PE and meter panel, I applied 0.3mm clear plastic board. I used the clear bond (Konishi's "G clear") to glue these parts, because when I tried with CA glue, the clear parts went cloudy. I made lots of tries and errors here as well. :)

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jXiS0fa9I9g/UBvGyyV59-I/AAAAAAAAA10/g00stkVm4Tc/s1600/336.jpg
This was the result for meter panel. I like the colors on Revell's decals (the famous "red on black"). I got headache after cutting and applying these tiny small decals on panel.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-slI-PaR5tGk/UBvFOjVZISI/AAAAAAAAA1M/XSIssstm1Fc/s1600/326.jpg
The white parts are from Hasegawa's 328GTB.... I decided to use the handle stay (on the right) because the chassis plate was molded on it. I'll somehow make it up when I make 328GTB... Now is the time to concentrate to 288GTO.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-77HtLp3nOEA/UBvFTKHSpbI/AAAAAAAAA1c/3lFz-eb-MtI/s1600/332.jpg
To fit Hasegawa's handle stay, holes were applied. You can see holes, holes and holes.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-w5rZdHbKyfc/UBvTtHCP9DI/AAAAAAAAA28/dVLU0wuEIPM/s1600/342.jpg
I couldn't do this job without loupe. Under half is Revell's ('cause Revell has just under half. Why???) and the upper half was cut from Fujimi's decal. I could choose Fujimi's decal for whole, but again I didn't like its atmosphere. Besides, Fujimi's decal are too fragile for these works (If I put the decal coat, they won't fit to these small section). The color is different in upper and under, but I thought this was the best solution.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-p2NeJ-hz0YE/UBvG0T8BwiI/AAAAAAAAA18/5aC55PkrXJc/s1600/338.jpg
To fit Fujimi's meter panel into Revell's dashboard, it took looong time for adjustment.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3PCsUkhAUyQ/UBvWO3Jd9iI/AAAAAAAAA38/ld-L5Xnw_UM/s1600/344.jpg
Then the KA Model's flocking powder and enamel flat black + white + thinner was applied (the method was the same as the interior tub; before the last post). Maybe this looks a bit exaggerated, still I think it would be better than other ways of painting (of mine). Of course, this job had to be before applying decals on centre consoles....! The way you can do these kind of jobs much easier...

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CrCAETTKf3Y/UBvWSiSiQzI/AAAAAAAAA4U/kFf4cbHVZ5Q/s1600/390.jpg
I chose Revell's steering wheel, just because it seemed cool to me. Revell's details are sometimes attractive, seeing the prancing horses, wipers, etc.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4_pbPoemV4Q/UBvWT-HCgPI/AAAAAAAAA4c/A2rX8YOdigY/s1600/391.jpg
The centre aluminum (stainless steel?) section was thinned by rotary tool and sandpapers, and horn button was sanded away.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zYEw_ohEo8I/UBvZZ1aHdbI/AAAAAAAAA5s/qapZ7nBNXEM/s1600/394.jpg
For the horn button, I used one of these.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y4i7uC7Sdx8/UBvWOO_r7YI/AAAAAAAAA30/GhMkOHhxu4U/s1600/343.jpg
I put 0.7mm brass tubes (black CA glue applied and shaped on top) as ｌevers. And, once again a hole was applied through the handle stay. I made the steering wheel steerable; not linked to the front wheels though.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-99fyGJpG3X8/UBvWP21uqqI/AAAAAAAAA4E/5qjXS7l3wg0/s1600/345.jpg
I bought a red, polyester training shirt from K Mart ($8 only on bargain) for only this purpose. I maybe use this shirt for the seats as well. The white plate is from 0.5mm plastic boards; 2-ply.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aw8hJzS-BeM/UBvWVunj09I/AAAAAAAAA4k/be90PbEFV9E/s1600/392.jpg
The PE chassis plate is from Hobby Design (I couldn't find the right one, but still OK to me). I changed the shape on the lever on right; light witch, I reckon, from plastic rods. The rings on centre 3 meters were made from 0.3mm nickel silver; coiled and cut. Enamel clear was also applied on the meters.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NlEL6Q2RMcI/UBvWYItN_RI/AAAAAAAAA4s/bb5HZd2cxPs/s1600/395.jpg
The left side pocket was assembled with 0.3mm plastic papers, colored in flat red and attached.
The GTO logo on right is from Fujimi's box, applied with CA glue after being set in the right place.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M2--BBCCBsU/UBvWZ5ZypvI/AAAAAAAAA40/e_IwnxLV9mA/s1600/396.jpg
Oh, you can't see from these pictures, but the key hole was from Fujimi's box. I'll treat the key holder (Fujimi's PE) during the body paint dries.

That's all for today:)

Have a nice weekend!!! :evillol:

wow. nice work on the dash!

amazing build up. surely one of the nicest and more accurate I've ever seen.

Long time no see... Sorry, my work (to live) is now getting harder and I caught cold...
Anyway, let's start posting.

Inside the doors.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4X1ZVQMCJz4/UCeJ2sDK9CI/AAAAAAAAA6k/00XixAv8MLI/s1600/350.jpg
I chose Fujimi's, 'cause the speaker's PE fits to the hole, and their sizes were a bit bigger than Revell's. The sizes had to be bigger because they had to fit to the doors, not to the interior tub.
I cut the upper section to make coloring and shaping the handles in a accurate way easier.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FZWOyKGBroM/UCeJ3ozJdcI/AAAAAAAAA6s/2FsIc5ZJ5tU/s1600/352.jpg
Since I thought the side pocket mold of Fujimi was too big, I decided to make the pocket movable instead of just scraping another line.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-da0bqml6FqE/UCeJ4zGljAI/AAAAAAAAA60/86FL0ABDyo8/s1600/354.jpg
This time I can't stop these ridiculous works... The light on the handle. I made a hole, the light clear part was from my junk parts, shaped smaller than grain of rice.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7Od_-bbwoBs/UCeJ6tu1uJI/AAAAAAAAA68/2i9gCe1pue8/s1600/407+%25282%2529.jpg
Then sanded to apply flat black.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nru6fyh6a1A/UCeJ9m7e9CI/AAAAAAAAA7M/TZDgiVzXLQg/s1600/409.jpg
Same flocking powder were applied on upper parts, the back of the lights were colored in chrome silver; Tamiya paint marker.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-akGn-L_05D8/UCeJ_Rvm_ZI/AAAAAAAAA7U/05KbWMggI1c/s1600/410.jpg
I made door handles from 0.3mm plastic paper and 1.5mm plastic rod. I could leave them as power window version, but I couldn't think my GTO has power window. Even, I haven't put air-conditioner! (just because Revell's dash didn't have that mold)

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-64ox2PVPgSg/UCeKCa3F-JI/AAAAAAAAA7c/4Vzqrs1KxnU/s1600/412.jpg
My camera couldn't focus to this tiny handle...

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eDEVcl6YP9s/UCeKFHGVW8I/AAAAAAAAA7s/tXOjN90aJtk/s1600/416.jpg
I put the lip to prevent the pocket going into the board. On the bottom of the pocket, I glued 0.3mm nickel silver rod with CA glue. Of course flat black was applied on the lip later.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cA9omEqs2Xc/UCeKDmq7lHI/AAAAAAAAA7k/lpeLeR3skAk/s1600/415.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O_E-lnSZqMs/UCeKJOIHs3I/AAAAAAAAA8E/mzGC7Ao3fgg/s1600/421.jpg
I don't like to show the back... but this way, I hold the pocket. The back-up white plastic paper was 0.3mm, so the 0.3mm nickel silver was ideal for the stay. For my excuse, I don't care where you can't see...!

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m1Iu-jeZ0Xo/UCeKGolh-uI/AAAAAAAAA70/Lx91vIoGRxs/s1600/419.jpg
The outline was cut and sanded to fit to body.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rvdNlYRebHg/UCeKHlwCURI/AAAAAAAAA78/TlYx5hgg5Ms/s1600/420.jpg
So far so good. If I found good decal on speaker (black "Ferrari GTO" letters on yellow), I'll put it.

I think I can proceed to the body painting soon. Still a long way, but surely approaching to the finish line :)

See you soon!

Take a look at this link,maybe it can be helpful

http://www.modellismo.net/forum/1037081-post1.html

Fantastic work you are doing! Looks amazing! Very good description on work too

Take a look at this link,maybe it can be helpful

http://www.modellismo.net/forum/1037081-post1.html

Thanks!!!! I can't stop looking at those pictures :smile:

Fantastic work you are doing! Looks amazing! Very good description on work too

Thanks for looking :) I think someday I'll make American muscle car like yours. Your Camaro (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1059277) looks really nice, well detailed and clean work!!