Turbo ecu

K I feel like I just wasted alot of money on putting a turbo on my RS 420a. I was told by a few people that a turbo ecu for a 420a arn't even made. Thats the only thing I need to get the turbo ready for my car.

So what computer do I use? I hope there is a way around this. Is there a piggyback made I can use?

Thanx

It all depends on your setup. If you're running a FMU and not running more than 8lbs of boost, you technically don't need anything.

You can use a SAFC but will only help lean out the car, not richen.

Other others include a standalone AEM EMS or the more popular for the 420a, MegaSquirt.

What are your goals and what is your setup?

Thanx for the reply dav:)

Basicly I just wanna run on 5 to 8psi right now. I just bought a FMU and a FPR. So as long as I run low psi a can run on stock ecu?

P.S IM praying the FPR is the right one for my car. I bought one for a gsx on ebay, but in the discription the guy said it will also work with 95 rs.

You don't need a FPR. I suppose it would work to drop down the static fuel pressure, but really not needed. The FMU will take care of everything you need. My old setup just had the FMU. Granted the FP sat at ~47psi at idle which is high, but for a basic setup that never saw over 8psi it was fine.

Which FMU did you buy? What size disc?

12:1. Was going to get the 10:1 but researched online and seen the most demanded was the 12:1. So your saying IM fine without ecu? Sorry if I keep asking same question, just want to be sure.

Well dang on the FPR. So it won't hurt to go ahead and put it on also?
Thanx

12:1 is the better choice. Technically you could run a 10:1, but that seems a little too lean to me.

You can still use the FRP. I would set static presure to 30psi at idle.

Then with the FMU:

baseFP + (boostPSI x 12) = boostFPpsi
((8*12)+30)= 126psi
This means at full boost (8psi), your fuel pressure is at 126psi.

I ran my setup with just a 12:1 FMU. Base FP was ~47psi which comes out to 143psi FP under full boost. That starts getting alittle high there.

You don't need anything such as a piggy-back or standalone for that.


I do want to make sure you replaced your fuel pump as well.

Sweet. Just got to wait for everything to come in. Was going to ask about a fuel pump. Any suggestions on what to get? Was thinking a Walbro 255.


And of ya. I also got 400cc injectors, should that be ok?

Stock injectors work fine. You can still use the injectors, but you're more likely to run super rich and probably start losing power. Stock injectors are good up to about 11-13psi of boost.

Get the 255, you will need it. Don't run the car without it once it's turboed. I made that mistake. Pretty sure the motors life span got cut down because of it.

K thanx dav. You took ALOT of weight off my shoulders. I got the injectors free anyway. Friend upgraded and just gave them to me. But thanx for all the help.

I came out pretty good just buying on ebay.

Walbro 255 fuel pump/ $49.99
Oil Return line/ $45.95
Downpipe/ $49.99
12:1 FMU/ $59.39
Turbo Manifold/ $115.00
FPR/ $77.98
Total/$398.30 all on ebay..hehe
The intercooler and piping, turbo, BOV, I bought from friend for $500.00, so basicly spent around $900.00 not to bad I guess. LOL think I still need the fuel lines though.

No problem. That's cheap as hell for the Walbro. Do you have a boost gauge? If not, get one. Also, what wastegate do you have?

Now I guess the next question I have to ask is what turbo are you going to be using?

It's a T25 with the gate already on it. Ya the boost gauge came from buddy when I got the intercooler along with a air/fuel ratio.

It's a T25 with the gate already on it. Ya the boost gauge came from buddy when I got the intercooler along with a air/fuel ratio.

T25s have a Mitshubishi flanged housing You'll need either an adapter or a new exhaust housing on the turbo for it to work with the T3 flange on the exhaust mani.

Also, if you're still going to use the internal wg, you'll need to block off the external on the manifold. Most interal gates however, are set at ~12psi or so, which is going to be too much for you. With an external, the smallest spring you can get is generally a 7.25lb spring.

A/F gauge is useless.

5 bucks says that is not a real Walbro. I'm concerned with the FPR price as well.

This is the pump.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Walbro-Fuel-Pump-95-99-Mitsubihi-Eclipse-Talon-255-LPH_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45e8db657aQQitemZ30 0259435898QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories

The reason I got it so cheap is cause the one I bought from him doesn't have the Pump Harness, or holder cup which is ok. My buddy has one of each cause he bought one for his other gsx but never put it on.

His pump come up missing but whoever took it left the Harness and cup.
We already planed out closing the external wastegate hole and getting a flange which I hear is pretty cheap(I Hope). But IM going to take a few pics of the turbo and post it on this thread cause there are to open bolt holes that I have no idea goes there, want to see if anyone on here knows.
Thanx guys. Ill be back with pics I hope.

K here is the link to the pics. I just added them to my myspace under "Turbo" folder. Forgot my photobucket pass.

myspace.com/nasviarou6us (http://www.myspace.com/nasviarou6us)

Wow please delete those others. I did not mean to do that! The page kept freezing so I went back and hit send again. So SORRY for that guys! I tried to delete them but site running really slow.

5 bucks says that is not a real Walbro. I'm concerned with the FPR price as well.

The FPR was posted up in another thread I believe. It was a ebay brand one. Again, it's not needed, but would lower static pressure.

I would personally get an external wastegate instead. Like I said, the internal springs on the turbos are higher boost than I would recommend using.

Looking around... looks like it's 10psi, but I may be wrong on this one. Still a little higher than what I would run on stock.

Anyway I can get away with the stock WG right now? Running low on cash..hehe Dav did the check out my turbo pics to see what the bolt holes are for? Not sure if u saw link. This site was acting crazy for about 10 minutes, kept freezing on posts.

Ya AF must be doing some updates. I can't even delete the double posts or anything right now.

That turbo is water/oil cooled. I see the oil feed line is still hooked up, so the others are for water. You don't have to run the lines, especially at such low boost, but find a bolt to plug them up.

So as long as I run my Oil return drain line IM ok? Bought this. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380131244405&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT The manifold I got coming uses 35/38mm WG. So hopefully the stock will last till I get a external.

I wouldn't run more than 6psi or so no the FMU setup. That really is a terrible fuel system to run on the car. If you want to run more boost I would recommend upgrading to a SFMU and putting in those 450 injectors, the SFMU will allow you to lower static fuel pressure and lower the rise rate of the fuel pressure so you wont be so high. I dont remember the exact graph of the walbro 255 pump but above 80psi it doesn't flow as much fuel. The FMU may work for a little while but I woulnt plan on running it forever.

I also agree with Dave ab using an external WG. To use an internal you will have to add a spring to it to lower the pressure down some, I tried to run this method a few years ago and never had much luck. Boost pressure was never consistent.

I know it may end up costing you more money but your setup will be much safer and you shouldn't end up with a blown motor in a few months.

Agreed. The oil return line (also has the feed in there too) is fine. I replaced all the fittings from mine but I needed to for other reasons. They hold fine as is though.

I really never had too much problems with the FMU and the pump. Only time I would run out of fuel was when the boost controller wasn't working properly and boost was spiking.

What year is the car?

Its a 95 rs. Just was hoping I could use the Internal WG for now and just run at 5psi. Not looking to get any serious speed till I get better internals.

Used wastegates can be found for under 100. That is the route I would go. Also mine came with a 5psi spring in the kit. Would be perfect for your setup. Don't buy a cheap ebay wg if you decide to run external

Ok, I asked on the year to see if you would need a Missing Link or a FCD, but you'll be fine.

Ok, I asked on the year to see if you would need a Missing Link or a FCD, but you'll be fine.
So the setup I have right now will be ok till I upgrade?
Thanx alot for all the help guys. It was really needed. Ill keep ya updated just incase I need alittle more help. Hopefully will start in a month or so.

Ya I believe you got everything. Seems to be good from what I've read.

Oh ya 1 more thing. When putting the intercooler on, do I have to take the stock 1 out? Or would it be fine to just leave it in? Or do people take it out basicly for weight reduction?

NT don't have intercoolers

Yea you either talking about the radiator or AC condenser

lol ya it was the condenser. I can't get over how small the fuel pumps are. Fits in the palm of my hand...lol my girl said it was cute. Cause the cavalier fuel pump I put on her car was ALOT bigger.

Hey I forgot to tell you when order that flange adapter, make sure you order the gaskets as well. Will need 1 Mitshubishi turbo flange gasket and 1 T3 turbo flange gasket.

I e-mailed the guy on e-bay to see if he is sending any. If not I found both on ebay. But if all else fails can't I use a tube of gasket maker? Will I need gaskets for the DP and WG if they don't send any?

You cant use gasket maker, it wont last any time. Yes you will need gaskets on everything. If they dont come with them you will have to order them.

K got the gaskets for T25 and T3. Am I going to have to change the type of oil IM using now? I been using Valvoline 10-40 since I could drive and never had any problems. Some of my buddies run 5-20 or 5-30 can't remember. What would be best?

K got the gaskets for T25 and T3. Am I going to have to change the type of oil IM using now? I been using Valvoline 10-40 since I could drive and never had any problems. Some of my buddies run 5-20 or 5-30 can't remember. What would be best?

It really doesn't matter. I run 5w-30 full synthetic. Really depends on the weather. You probably shouldn't use synthetic though. I have aftermarket cams which 'need' that.

Yet another question..lol The nimple on the BOV that goes to vacuum line, right now it is closed tight. How far open does it need to be?

I'm confused on what you mean by closed?

Right here. I can turn it till its totally tight or screw it off.
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/020400_193200.jpg

Oh that adjusts how stiff/soft the BOV will be. Not sure on those where the right place is. When it's set to stiff, it takes more 'power' to open the valve to blow off. If it's set too stiff, the BOV won't open and then the compressed air will flow back into the turbo causing compressor surge. If it's too soft, it won't hold any boost and be letting off air every chance it gets.

Oh that adjusts how stiff/soft the BOV will be. Not sure on those where the right place is. When it's set to stiff, it takes more 'power' to open the valve to blow off. If it's set too stiff, the BOV won't open and then the compressed air will flow back into the turbo causing compressor surge. If it's too soft, it won't hold any boost and be letting off air every chance it gets.

Guess I'll just have to keep hitting the gas till it feels or sounds right. Oh hey would I need high heat paint to paint the turbo?

Guess I'll just have to keep hitting the gas till it feels or sounds right. Oh hey would I need high heat paint to paint the turbo?

Start off with a soft setting. Too soft you'll feel it being open at idle. Too hard you'll hear compressor surge. Just some trial and error.

I painted my compressor with high temp paint, but it's peeling off and looking like crap. If you know how, I would say polish it. Or get it ceramic coated. If you paint, make sure it's 100% clean before hand. Maybe do some light sanding too while at it. You can't paint the exhaust side. Will fall off right away.

Touch the turbo after a few pulls...






DON'T! KIDDING!

You would need some pretty high temp stuff to do it, and I've never seen it look good.

I do hope you're logging your car when you're "hitting the gas" to set things up.

FWIW, TurboXS (garbage) blow off valves adjust with washers by unscrewing the top portion. That nipple needs to be on as tight as it can go, and the vacuum line should be zip tied to it.

What MAF are you running with that vented valve?

Ya I already wiped it down with just a wet rag and got all the grime off, looks better than it did. Wonder if crome polish would work? Believe IM just running a MAP.

Hell touch the turbo after it's been idling... my arms are full of burns from these things. No fun.

Lando, it's the 420a platform, so no MAF, just the MAP.

Damnit. Foiled again.

When hooking up the Oil feed line, I just run it to a new hole in the oil pan oil lvl high? Or anyone got the mesurments to high the line goes on the oil pan? And where do I tap into the block for the oil feed line for turbo?

Oh dave can u send me the link again to that custom made 420 DP please.

The OIL RETURN LINE goes to the oil pan. Ideally you want it mounted to the shorter height side, rather high up. The OIL FEED LINE gets tapped into the back of the block. If you lay under the car, looking upward on the back of the block, there's 2 things going into the block. Knock sensor on closer to the passenger side, oil pressure senor closer to the drivers side. I broke the oil pressure sender off and then unbolted it from the block. Then T-ed it all together.

You can kinda see what I'm talking about here: Left of the alternator is the knock sensor. Then farther left and little above is my T with the oil pressure sender and line to the turbo
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/david-b/Motor%20Build/1024091334Medium.jpg

My DP setup is in the tech articles section.

K the shorty height side of oil pan, meaning the driver side of pan? Will the crank shaft sensor or (knock sensor the same thing?) be anywhere close to where im putting the feed line so I can get a idea of where IM looking? So basicly I break off the plug end off the oil sensor and tap it from there? Basicly it will be ezer to just jack the engine out to do the feed line correct?

The crank position sensor tells the ECU where the crank is at, the knock sensor picks up detonation in the cylinders. They are not the same thing. The knock sensor is in the center of the block on the back and the oil pressure sending unit will be on the left side. You dont have to break it just get a wrench that will fit it. Then like Dave said put a T on the block and run the oil feed from that, I recommend getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. The stock sensor is just a pressure switch and is useless. The oil drain just needs to be above the oil level in the pan, it doesn't matter where you put it just mount it as high as possible.

The crank position sensor tells the ECU where the crank is at, the knock sensor picks up detonation in the cylinders. They are not the same thing. The knock sensor is in the center of the block on the back and the oil pressure sending unit will be on the left side. You dont have to break it just get a wrench that will fit it. Then like Dave said put a T on the block and run the oil feed from that, I recommend getting an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. The stock sensor is just a pressure switch and is useless. The oil drain just needs to be above the oil level in the pan, it doesn't matter where you put it just mount it as high as possible.

K sorry IM a bit lost here. So I just screw in the T where the oil sender was? Then the oil feed line on one side of the T and a Gauge on the other side of T? And the oil return line doesn't have to be low where the oil sits in the pan? Thats where IM lost. If the oil isn't hitting the return line, how does it get sent to the turbo?

The oil return line returns the oil back into the oil pan. If the line is below the oil level of the pan the oil won't drain back into the pan. You need to get an electronic gauge and put the sending unit on the t. I have a pic ill post up later so u can see it

Mighty fine looking T there!
I think the oil feed fit that you had bought came with the fittings? If so, you only need an adapter or 2 to get it in the block. I want to say it's 3/8" fitting on the block. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

And ya you don't have to break off the oil pressure sender. It was just much easier to do. It's in a very tight space with the motor in the car. Just have to come up from the bottom.

Just to clarify, the return line is returning the oil from the turbo back to the motor. Oil flows out of the turbo, down the return line and back into the pan. The Feed Line is doing just that, feeding the turbo with oil. The oil pump is moving the oil around, will go through the line and to the turbo. Then again, back down the return line into the pan.

More pics of the position on the block. First one I didn't have the oil pressure gauge sender installed.
Dead center it knock sensor. Left of that is the oil hole.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/david-b/Motor%20Build/1004091614cMedium.jpg

With gauge sender installed.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/david-b/Motor%20Build/1024091333Medium.jpg

Here is everything that came with the kit. There is like some 4way looking adapter in there.
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11095.jpg

You should probably just go to lowes and buy some Ts like what me and dave have done. I dont really see anything in that kit that will really work for the back of the block. Best thing to go is to pull the oil sensor out and take it to lowes to get the correct fittings.

You should probably just go to lowes and buy some Ts like what me and dave have done. I dont really see anything in that kit that will really work for the back of the block. Best thing to go is to pull the oil sensor out and take it to lowes to get the correct fittings.

I had the same fittings in my kit. Just had to buy the adapter to fit the smaller fittings.

I have some fittings in my shed I'll go out and try to find them and get you the right sizes you need.

K thanx dave that will be usefull. I just left autozone just checking to see if they had the T but they dont. But I did buy the Nylon tubing kit for the turbo. We have a pretty good hardwear store here in town. IM sure they have a T I need.

You have the T. We talked about this. You just need the adapter to go from the smaller piping to the larger, which I said I will get you the right size.

You have the T. We talked about this. You just need the adapter to go from the smaller piping to the larger, which I said I will get you the right size.

K wasn't sure cause silver said he didn't see anything that I could use. Was just making sure.

Just got WG in. Two things. It came with 2 spings. How do i know which one will run 5psi? One spring is taller than the other. Where Do I run the line from the WG to?

WG runs to the compressor on the turbo.

Taller spring should be the stiff one