Turbo ecu

K thanx. Fixng to leave out for my buddies shop now. Dave I left you a private message on here just incase u didn't get my aim one:)

For the wastegate you can either dump it to the atmosphere it or dump it into the exhaust. No real advantages of one over the other. External dumps if dropped in the engine bay may raise engine bay temps up some. They're also louder since there's no muffler or anything. If attached to the downpipe, the exhaust gas flows out with the rest once it bypasses the turbo.

Look up pics of wastegate dump and you'll see how they go.

Well after a week of putting th turbo in. It was WASTED money. First we crank the car up and it was smoking white smoke like no other. It took 15 gallons of oil to even make it home. I get home, pop the hood and the WG was on fire. My buddy said the seals in that part of the turbo that goes into the manafold has bad seals so the oil is just sitting there burning.

Oil pressure would be good at 45 to 50psi then would drop to 20 in a matter of seconds. Just going back stock, save money again and just buy a gsx. Just got to try and sell all the extras I bought for the turbo.
Thanx for all ur help anyway:)

Tryin to rotate the turbo cause I have the feed line facing to radiator. Thats prob the problem with my oil. I got all 4 bolts loosen to rotate it, hit it (softly) with a hammer and can't get the turbo to rotate at all. Any other way to get it to move?

Ok ya you have the feed line on the drain. When you're able to rotate the center section, you want to rotate (or "clock") it 90* TOWARD the front of the car. This will put your current oil feed facing downward. Take that off, move up to the top. The oil drain line then goes where the feed was... on the bottom. Again, you want it straight up/down. The oil goes into the turbo, lubricates it, then drains down in one quick motion. You don't want the oil sitting there.

I couldn't find any more info on clocking the turbo, but keep working at it. Try pulling the center section while trying to turn. Even a little bit of tapping toward the drivers side on the center section may help as well.

From the beginning of this I knew it was not going to end well. It just seemed like you needed to do more research before tackling such a project. Dave sent me the pics of your car and you did infact have the oil feed line on the oil drain and the oil drain line connected to one of the water feed lines. Im sure the car was pouring out oil so you shouldnt have driven it like that. Fortunately you did have an oil pressure gauge and thats what saved your motor from running out of oil. Fix the problem like dave said and it should be fine.

Did it really take 15 gallons of oil or quarts?

and to rotate the turbo you need to take the bolts out and pull the center section out the housing, you wont be able to spin it when its seated inside the housing.

and to rotate the turbo you need to take the bolts out and pull the center section out the housing, you wont be able to spin it when its seated inside the housing.

My bad. On my Garrett and Turbonetics I just loosened and was able to make the changes. Anyway, it still needs to get done.

I can't take the bolts out at all, maybe 1. There being stoped by hitting the turbo. I called the guy that sold me the turbo and he said he had is oil lines hooked up the same way. That I just need to rotate the turbo cause with the return line is sideways, so oil is unable to drain back to the pan.

It's just getting it to rotate..lol There are 3 holes plus a line that looks like a small brake line. Two are pretty big which I was told is for the water. Another is shaped like triangles facing away from each other(best way I can descibe it) and the other is a brake looking line I'd say in about a foot long. Ill try and get some good close pics tomorrow in the day light and show u my setup. :)

The hole facing the radiator is the oil drain. This needs to be connected to the oil pan. The fitting straight accross from that is the feed line. The rest are water lines that should be capped off. Loosen the bolts as much as possible and tap the turbo out of the housing some. As it starts to separate you will be able to take the rest of the bolts out. Just be careful not to damage the wheels on the turbo when you take it apart and put it back together. Make sure there is no more oil leaking before you drive the car again

Any reason why my external WG was shooting out flames?

How did you dump the WG? Did you have it going back into the downpipe or dumping externally?

How did you dump the WG? Did you have it going back into the downpipe or dumping externally?
Its running externaly. I just bought the WG tube like 10 minutes ago. Could it just be raw exhaust burning out? Plus IM not sure the WG is doing its job. Every spring we put in I couldn't get over 3psi. They did send me some disks with the WG(pic below) guess its to stiffen the spring up more. BOV wont even go off.

Silver you were right about just tapping the turbo out. I did that it came right out. Got 3 of 4 bolt out. The 4th one if rounded off really bad. Just tryin to get it off now.

http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/021600_112200.jpg

Can you post some pics of the setup so we can see what's going on.. I thought you were running the internal wastegate. Did u block off that wastegate hole in the manifold

I bought an external Obx. K i'll post some pics

I think IM running to many vac lines. Would that cause problems? You can see on the Valve cover, burn marks from the WG.
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/021600_120502-1.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/021600_120503-1.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/021600_120500.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/021600_120501.jpg

Wait wait wait... you had the wastegate with no tube on it? Dude...

When you hit full boost that opens up and bypasses the exhaust around the turbo. No wonder you had a fire! Oil shooting out + fire from exhaust could have been a much worse then just a small fire!

I would have the BOV on it's own vacuum line. Did you adjust the Hard/soft on the BOV? You should be able to feel the air being blown out of it at idle when revving.

And what is the line running from the compressor toward the firewall?

So getting the WG tube would fix that problem? That line is the oils feed line ruuning to the back of the block. Ya I ajusted the BOV but I couldn't tell if it helped cause it never would go off. IM just going to mess with it once I get all this other stuff done. First I got to file down this bolt head so I can get it off to rotate the turbo.

Why would you drive it without the WG tube? Idling is ok with it off, but it sounds like your initial test drive (15 gallons worth of oil) was near cross country. Don't drive it until everything is installed and working properly.

I'm talking this. What is this line going to/from and why?
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g291/david-b/whatthe.jpg

Wow ok those vac lines are a mess. Your problem with your bov not working properly is because you have it tapped into the compressor housing. This is wrong. Heres how to run the lines. Run the wastegate from the compressor housing. THATS IT. Run the bov and AFPR from the intake manifold. The bov releases when it sees vacuum. There is no vac coming from the compressor housing. Also why are you running an AFPR anyways. You dont need it but you can use it, better have removed the stock FPR though. Are you running the FMU unit as well?

I see no fans either thats going to cause problems later on.

Also is that the oil feed line that runs towards the radiator?

Also is that the oil feed line that runs towards the radiator?
Ya thats the feed line. I finnaly got to turbo rotated and bolted tight. Now that line facing the radiator in facing up. The compressor housing is the nimple in the turbo right?

Ya thats the feed line. I finnaly got to turbo rotated and bolted tight. Now that line facing the radiator in facing up. The compressor housing is the nimple in the turbo right?

The hole facing the radiator is the oil drain. This needs to be connected to the oil pan. The fitting straight accross from that is the feed line. The rest are water lines that should be capped off. Loosen the bolts as much as possible and tap the turbo out of the housing some. As it starts to separate you will be able to take the rest of the bolts out. Just be careful not to damage the wheels on the turbo when you take it apart and put it back together. Make sure there is no more oil leaking before you drive the car again

From the beginning of this I knew it was not going to end well. It just seemed like you needed to do more research before tackling such a project. Dave sent me the pics of your car and you did infact have the oil feed line on the oil drain and the oil drain line connected to one of the water feed lines. Im sure the car was pouring out oil so you shouldnt have driven it like that. Fortunately you did have an oil pressure gauge and thats what saved your motor from running out of oil. Fix the problem like dave said and it should be fine.

Ok ya you have the feed line on the drain. When you're able to rotate the center section, you want to rotate (or "clock") it 90* TOWARD the front of the car. This will put your current oil feed facing downward. Take that off, move up to the top. The oil drain line then goes where the feed was... on the bottom. Again, you want it straight up/down. The oil goes into the turbo, lubricates it, then drains down in one quick motion. You don't want the oil sitting there.

The hole that you had facing the radiator needs to be facing down.
And yes the compressor is the "cold side" of the turbo, the part where the air flows in. That nipple goes straight to wastegate.
Where did you mount the FMU?

What ab the AFPR. You need to answer the rest of our questions so we can help you straighten this thing out. Where is the oil leaking from?

K I'll rotate it again. My fmu is screwed in the firewall behind the intake. The reason I thought that line nfront of the radiator went up cause of pics like these I found on the net. The all have that line with same adapter running from what it looks like, back of block. Why IM confused.:banghead:
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/Untitled-1.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/4.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/420aTurboCandyredenginefromtopview.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/carwork105.jpg
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/hahn_eclipse_420a_kit_s1.jpg

What ab the AFPR. You need to answer the rest of our questions so we can help you straighten this thing out. Where is the oil leaking from?
I took the vac line off the stock fpr. The oil wasn't leaking anywhere from what we saw cause we checked everything.. It had to of been burning somewhere. The car smoked so bad I couldn't hardly see anything in my rearview mirror. My rear bumper is caked in sut. My girl was about a mile or 2 ahead of me and can see my coming cause the smoke. It was so bad people behind had to back waaaay off.

As Professor farnsworth would say from futurama "Good news everyone" ha. I put 5 quarts of oil in the car, unhooked that top oil line to see what it was doing, had my girl hold it while I cranked the car and oil was shooting right into the turbo whoohoo. I turned the car off unhooked the bottom line and oil was draining out going to the oil pan.

The oil was draining slow but IM sure that will pick up when driving the car. So hopfully the oil lines are right. Now I just got to figure out how to get my boost where I want it. Oh and get that WG tube.

Those are different turbos than the one you have. Thats why they have a flange on the top and you dont. Sounds like you got it right now, I bet what was happening is the oil couldn't drain out the turbo and you where pushing the oil out the seals in the turbo. You need to check all of your intercooler pipe I bet its full of oil. You may have been lucky and it only pushed oil past the turbine seal but I doubt it. If you drove it long like that you may have blown the rings in that turbo, once you get it all straight if it still smokes you will need to rebuild it.

Now for the AFPR you dont need this. I would advise taking it off and run the stock FPR as long as your running stock injectors. You could set it to the stock fuel pressure and leave it on there but there is no use for it at this point. It would also be nice to have a fuel pressure gauge inside the car to make sure the fuel pressure is rising with boost.

Took a load of my shoulders when u said it sounds like I got it right:). I checked the cooler piping and all is good. When I cranked it to check that oil line there was NO smoke..whooo. I got the WG tube on its way and I had to get a new feed flange cause that cheap piece of crap broke when I tried retighted it.

Ya without that tube, on my way home my car was filling with exhaust smoke (cough). The tube is 15in long so should I still have it welded to the downpipe? Cause I hate the way it sounds. To dang loud. As far as the FPR goes I will go back stock. Just hate I spent the money on it. Plus less vac lines to run.

Ya without that tube, on my way home my car was filling with exhaust smoke (cough). The tube is 15in long so should I still have it welded to the downpipe? Cause I hate the way it sounds. To dang loud. As far as the FPR goes I will go back stock. Just hate I spent the money on it. Plus less vac lines to run.

The bypassed exhaust wasn't being routed anywhere so it was just flowing into the bay, so of course it's going to be smokey and loud. The tube that you bought sounds like an external dump. It would just throw the exhaust down below the car. It will of course be quieter, but if you don't like that you could always weld it into the DP then.

Even with no dump the wastegate shouldnt be letting out that much exhaust. It should only open at full boost which should be around 7psi or so. Is the WG leaking the whole time your driving? With the fire and you said the exhaust was filling the cabin that seems like it may be dumping the whole time.

Is there another spot on the Wastegate to hook up a line to, like lower down on it? I was looking at the pics and trying to find a pic of the same one with no luck. Almost looks like the compressor is hooked up to the spot where the boost controller would go.

Im trying to figure out why your valve cover is black, it looks like the WG is dumping away from the VC. Do you have any exhaust leaks? Also you need to take that line off that runs to the VC breather. You will be pressurizing your crankcase everytime you hit boost

Even with no dump the wastegate shouldnt be letting out that much exhaust. It should only open at full boost which should be around 7psi or so. Is the WG leaking the whole time your driving? With the fire and you said the exhaust was filling the cabin that seems like it may be dumping the whole time.
I think it is dumping at all times. Have no idea why. Wonder if it is cause I had the vac lines hooked up wrong? You can crank the car and let it idle and when u turn the car off there is smoke coming from the WG. Trying to find some instructions on the web about it. My valve cover is black cause thats where the flames went when it came out of WG. What is VC Breather?

Is there another spot on the Wastegate to hook up a line to, like lower down on it? I was looking at the pics and trying to find a pic of the same one with no luck. Almost looks like the compressor is hooked up to the spot where the boost controller would go.
Nope thats the only spot on the WG to hook line to. That pic I posted a page or 2 back shows some disks and a ring that came with the WG. Think the disks are to help stiffen spring. Don't know where the ring goes.

Here is my WG. If this don't help I will take it off car and take pics. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180444156678&viewitem=

that ring is the seal for the wastegate. Thats why you have a big leak. Thats also what makes the valve seal.

that ring is the seal for the wastegate. Thats why you have a big leak. Thats also what makes the valve seal.
K will put it on. The reason I didn't was cause my buddy said it wasn't needed. Guess I need to find a new car buddy.

You know what silver, ur right. There are 2 holes for a vac line. One on top of WG which I had hooked up. And 1 on the bottom of WG.

You need a disc in there. As Silvr said, it seals everything up. Install that in and it will seal up. If not sure where it goes, there's plenty of diagrams online. Just search and they'll show a break down of it.

You want that vac line hooked to the bottom of the WG. It should be closer to the manifold. With it hooked to the top, you were feeding air on the backside of the WG that is then causing it to stay open. Although without that ring in there, technically it was doing nothing anyways.

Glad to see we're working out the problems one at a time.

Actually Dave with the boost line connected to the top of the wastegate it wont open at all. It will just hold the valve shut and wont open no matter how much boost you put to it.

If he had hooked it to a vac line then yes it would have stayed open but he had it running from the compressor housing

Well, I think WG is right now. I hooked the vac line on bottom of WG and put the ring in and there is no smoke coming from WG and it is so QUITE now..lol. Ya the top vac hole on WG has noway pushing air into it cause the disk on top on the spring is covering it up.

So just waiting on feed flange to come in for my feed line, then hopfull ready to go. Oh ya what did you hook your gagues to for the lights? The parking lights?

That kit had a feed fitting for the turbo..

Glad the WG is working right. The fact that it was loud when the car was running should have been a sign that it wasn't working right from the beginning.

I have all my gauges (except one)hooked up to the ignition wire off of the dimmer switch. It has 3 wires on it, forget which one is the right one but easy to test out. That way the gauges will only be on when the parking lights/headlights are on.

Bad news. The car still smokes the same. After I put in the softest sping it tells me im -20 instead of -5 at idle(which my buddy says is good). I checked all my clams on my cooler and there fine. When I drove the car home it was at -5. Could the sping change make that much difference? And if I do have to rebuild turbo, how hard is it and is it cheap to do?

Now I have water in oil, white smoke and coolant dripping out of tailpipe from what it looks like. Headgasket? Cause my idiot buddy put the stiffest sping in waste gate. And I wasn't getting the right reading on gauge cause turbo wasn't on right. But man turbo sounded good spooling up, and BOV was hitting right and sounded good.

Your talking about the boost gauge correct? You should see ~18 in.hg at idle. Did you boost the car when you first turboed the car? When everything was messed up on it? Whats the most boost you have hit so far? I doubt you hit hardly any boost with the first setup when the wg was leaking so bad.

Coolant in the oil is no good. Sounds like a headgasket. I would do a compression check on the motor is I was you. That about the only place to start.

Your talking about the boost gauge correct? You should see ~18 in.hg at idle. Did you boost the car when you first turboed the car? When everything was messed up on it? Whats the most boost you have hit so far? I doubt you hit hardly any boost with the first setup when the wg was leaking so bad.

Coolant in the oil is no good. Sounds like a headgasket. I would do a compression check on the motor is I was you. That about the only place to start.
Boost hits 5psi now. We couldn't tell what boost was hitting when we first cranked it cause we found out the first gauge I had was no good, it was around 10yrs old. Only after I bought the new boost gauge it was showing around 12psi cause my buddy was retarted and put the stiffest spring in. Thinking it may of been part of the cause.

IM going to take it to this good shop we have in town. He has worked on my car before. But if the turbo seals are blown, is it cheap and pretty easy to do?

Start searching online for turbo rebuild advice. There's a guy on Myspace and on tuners that does a great job rebuilding if that's what you need to do. I can find out his info again if you want it.

Turbo rebuilds aren't exactly rocket science, but I would say to pay someone to do it for you.

Start searching online for turbo rebuild advice. There's a guy on Myspace and on tuners that does a great job rebuilding if that's what you need to do. I can find out his info again if you want it.
Yes that would be great ned. :)

wow 12psi, your fuel is running out at 7psi. Wouldn't be surprised is if the headgasket is gone or possibly even the motor. You need to do a compression check to see if there is any damage to the motor.

Does the turbo have shaft play? Look at the compressor wheel and exhaust wheel, if you see any oil then the seals in the turbo are leaking. If the turbo passes all these test then its fine.

wow 12psi, your fuel is running out at 7psi. Wouldn't be surprised is if the headgasket is gone or possibly even the motor. You need to do a compression check to see if there is any damage to the motor.

Does the turbo have shaft play? Look at the compressor wheel and exhaust wheel, if you see any oil then the seals in the turbo are leaking. If the turbo passes all these test then its fine.
The fuel it set at 45psi. IM taking the car to the shop next monday. Sucks cause he is the only guy in town that works on imports.

You're fuel pressure may be 45psi, but when boosting you will run out of fuel. 95s were able to handle higher boost a little longer but still running it at 12psi would do some damage.

Compression tests are pretty easy, can buy them for ~$20 or rent them cheap from Autozone. Easy to do.

You're fuel pressure may be 45psi, but when boosting you will run out of fuel. 95s were able to handle higher boost a little longer but still running it at 12psi would do some damage.

Compression tests are pretty easy, can buy them for ~$20 or rent them cheap from Autozone. Easy to do.
I just sent the turbo off to get a rebuild. The Shop that does it is only 6 hours away, so i'll get it back faster. Rather it's bad or not, I still want it rebuilt cause its been on 2 different cars. Like silver was saying about my cooler piping. I rechecked it and there is oil all in the piping. He is only charging me $425 for a high performance rebuild. Here is the site if anyone else thinking on getting one. http://www.gpopshop.com/index.html

Not sure if we welded the internal WG good, cause it looks like oil was coming from there.

Holy shit 425 for a turbo rebuild! Thats insanely high dude. The parts are only gonna cost like 75$. Honestly man it would have been a lot cheaper just to buy another turbo, t 25 turbos are a dime a dozen man.

Holy shit 425 for a turbo rebuild! Thats insanely high dude. The parts are only gonna cost like 75$. Honestly man it would have been a lot cheaper just to buy another turbo, t 25 turbos are a dime a dozen man.
lol ya I just noticed. I found some rebuilt ones online for $500 :( I was going to pay $325 for just the basic build, he said it was so high cause he uses Carbon seals. Oh and it comes with 12month warrenty. Right now he is just going to check and make sure it needs one. Haven't paid him just yet. Think I'll just have him send it back.

:eek7: $425 to rebuild a t25!!! :eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:
New big E16G are ~$550. I don't care what kind of seals he's putting in, you won't be anywhere close to maxing out that turbo on your setup or even come close to putting it through a high stress level.

:eek7: $425 to rebuild a t25!!! :eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2::eek2:
New big E16G are ~$550. I don't care what kind of seals he's putting in, you won't be anywhere close to maxing out that turbo on your setup or even come close to putting it through a high stress level.
Ya I know. IM hitting myself. I checked online looking for other prices and alot are around the same price. or maybe 100 cheaper. It's to the point IM tired of tryin to get this right. Got to get it on the road. Need it to get to work. Other than turbo bad and headgasket, its ready to go. Just waiting on these to get finished.

Have you dont a compression test on the motor yet? Right now your just throwing new parts at the car and have no idea whats wrong with it. The turbo may not have even been bad and yet you were gonna shell out over 400 to have it rebuilt. The oil in the pipe may have come from when you had it hooked up wrong. You should clean all that out and see if it still is leaking oil past the seals.

Do a compression test on the motor and then get back to us

Have you dont a compression test on the motor yet? Right now your just throwing new parts at the car and have no idea whats wrong with it. The turbo may not have even been bad and yet you were gonna shell out over 400 to have it rebuilt. The oil in the pipe may have come from when you had it hooked up wrong. You should clean all that out and see if it still is leaking oil past the seals.

Do a compression test on the motor and then get back to us
No I cleaned the cooler pipes out after I saw the oil. After a day of driving there was oil back in it. Ya I had a compression test done and headgasket is ok(Thank God)! The punk that sold me the turbo new it was ******. Pisses me off when u think people are ur friends, but when it comes to money these days some will do anything. Sad he would do that to a friend for just $30 bucks, and people u meet online you have never met help you all they can like u guys, which is so appreciated! I'll get this sorted out one day. IM sorry for all the hectic posts. Sorry guys. I should of just bought the whole kit and had a pro do it. Just wanted to do it and learn more about this stuff. I grew up working on cars just nothing turbo. Wanted to take that next step.

Here is a vid of the smoking after turbo rebuild.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xD0wqKsJ_Ss

So what is doing it?

This is whats in my tailpipe. Don't think compresson test was done right or something. Cause it still looked like signs of headgasket.

http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj322/import1978/SDC11134.jpg

Wow that's a lot.

It's kind of hard to screw up a compression test. Pretty simple. What were the numbers again?

Holy shit man thats a lot of smoke. You deffinately messed something up. What were the compression numbers numbers? Your suppose to do the test hot with the throttle floored. You can do the test cold and will still figure out if something is wrong. Looks like a HG to me also right now but a compression test should tell. Are you loosing any coolant?