Turbo ecu

K i can't get a hold of the guy that did the test to ask him to do it again cause I don't remember the numbers. What do I need to buy to do it myself?

When I take the DP off, there is oil in it. Like the turbo is pushing some oil in there and the heat is causing all that smoke when burning that oil left in my DP. Thing is when I took the turbo off to get it rebuilt there was oil in it. Not sure if that is the old oil or some new. But does that sound like that could be part of the problem. I have seen smoke from blown headgaskets and they were never that thick of smoke.

You need to buy a compression tester. Most auto parts store sell them. Do this first before you do anything else

You need to buy a compression tester. Most auto parts store sell them. Do this first before you do anything else

K i'll have to wait till payday. But something I thought about is the first time we cranked the car after the turbo was put on was the first time it was cranked since I pulled it in the shop and it was smoking right off the bat. So there was no time for anything to happen to the engine in just seconds i let it run.

Cause I just let it idle and never touched the gas pedal. I let it run for just about 10 seconds cause I saw the smoke and shut it off. While IM waiting on payday IM going somehow clean the oil out the DP. Water hose if I have to. See the way the turbo goes on the car wouldn't let the exhaust housing on (was hitting radiator). So instead we had to make our on flange and bolt the DP right up to where the exhaust housing bolts up to.

Was there something in the exhaust housing that kept oil from running in DP?

No. The DP should never see oil, so nothing to 'collect' it.

So it didn't smoke before you turboed? And when you put it on, then it smoked?

No. The DP should never see oil, so nothing to 'collect' it.

So it didn't smoke before you turboed? And when you put it on, then it smoked?

Yup as soon as we started the car for the first time after turbo install it was already smoking. Here is another vid with DP off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_U8wNRzqr94

Pic shows where the oil is coming from. If you look where I have the square is where some left over fresh oil sits. Somehow oil is being pushed out the turbo into my DP. Fixing to call the guy that repaired it and see what he can tell me also.
http://i552.photobucket.com/albums/jj322/import1978/SDC11135.jpg

Well, I called the guy that rebuilt the turbo and I found my problem. The oil return line is way to small. The guy said I need at least a 5/8. The line is so small that the oil is building up in the turbo and that why it's being shoved in my DP. The line I have on there now is about the size of a pincel.

Man I hope that was the hole problem all along.

Just now I went to autozone and they don't carry any 5/8 lines. Biggest they had was 3/8. The line thats coming from the return end of the turbo looks like a 1/4, really small, going into the 5/8 line that came with my oil feed line kit. But They never sent an adaptor to go from that 5/8 to the turbo. What do I do?

Didn't we already go over that earlier in the thread that you oil drain was to small? I don't know what fitting you are running off the turbo but you shouldn't even be able to hook up that small of a pipe. But yes that would be your problem.

Didn't we already go over that earlier in the thread that you oil drain was to small? I don't know what fitting you are running off the turbo but you shouldn't even be able to hook up that small of a pipe. But yes that would be your problem.

There is no fitting. Well, the fitting already flared to the line is the only thing going into turbo.
Just now I went to autozone and they don't carry any 5/8 lines. Biggest they had was 3/8. They never sent an adaptor to go from that 5/8 to the turbo. What do I get?

If I have to, I will take the turbo off tomorrow and get a pic of the return line hole.

This is the line I need. But where do I get one?
http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/ImagesProcedures/Images-Turbo/TurboGarrettT25.gif

No that is not the line that you need

This is the oil drain.
http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ellen/forums/IMG_3248.JPG

What is this? This is what they guy gave me with the turbo. If that is the oil drain line, I will have to rotate the turbo. Would that hurt the seals turned the other way?

http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11138.jpg (http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/?action=view&current=SDC11138.jpg)

Oil drain.

Maybe you should have someone else look at your car...

K lets start over. This is how the lines run.
I have the oil feed line hooked up to this
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11097-1.jpg (http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/?action=view&current=SDC11097-1.jpg)


Reason why is cause the feed line adaptor lookes like this.

http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11095-1.jpg (http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/?action=view&current=SDC11095-1.jpg)
So they matched. Now if I rotate the turbo I can hook this up where the feed line was.
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/th_SDC11138.jpg (http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/?action=view&current=SDC11138.jpg)
But why is the adaptor I got the feed line hooked up to called a "feedline adaptor" if I can't even use it for the feed line?
So now I just use what is circled to hook the feed line up?
http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11095-2.jpg (http://s914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/?action=view&current=SDC11095-2.jpg)

Oil drain.

Maybe you should have someone else look at your car...

To broke at the moment..lol

I'm having trouble with your pics and descriptions making sense, but if you never clocked that T25, I'm thinking you had the feed hooked up to the drain...

NA->Turbo guys, please verify.

We've been over the clocking thing before. I think we got it right the last time. Why do you want to hook the drain line up to the feed?

The one you have 'boxed' in the pic is the feed line. In that same pic, of the 3 blue fittings, the one farthest on the right is screwed into a silver fitting. That's the drain fitting.

And now that I think about it... I know why you're turbo is smoking. You NEED the restrictor on the turbo. Right now, the fitting you have circled is feeding the turbo, right? That hole is too big. Look at that fitting adapter and check out the pin-sized hole on the other side. That PLUS the small drain lines were over feeding the turbo.

Dave Im confused with you post but that piece the dude gave you with the turbo IS THE DRAIN LINE!! You are feeding the turbo threw the oil DRAIN! This is why your turbo is blowing oil past the seals. We have been over this before, clock your turbo so the oil drain is facing straight down. Cut the pipe off like the oil I have in that pic so you can slip a hose over it and run that to the pan. The fitting directly accross from the drain is the feed. If your oil line kit didn't come with the right fitting to connect the line up here you will need to buy one.

You probably should also run a restrictor like dave said.

Dave Im confused with you post but that piece the dude gave you with the turbo IS THE DRAIN LINE!! You are feeding the turbo threw the oil DRAIN! This is why your turbo is blowing oil past the seals. We have been over this before, clock your turbo so the oil drain is facing straight down. Cut the pipe off like the oil I have in that pic so you can slip a hose over it and run that to the pan. The fitting directly accross from the drain is the feed. If your oil line kit didn't come with the right fitting to connect the line up here you will need to buy one.

You probably should also run a restrictor like dave said.

Well, I clocked the turbo. Hooked the drain line up he gave me and seems to be no leaks so far and no smoke, just alittle from running rich. Now I just need an adaptor for the feed line. I bought a 1/4 in compession fitting and it hooked up fine, just some leakage. I teflone taped the hell out of it and it still leaks, plus it's pretty short. And ideas what is a good fitting to use? Still thanx for all this help guys. If I was rich I would pay you all..lol

Please quit running the car without oil being fed to the turbo.

I swear there's a restrictor and adapter in that kit you snapped pics of...

Also, the suggestion about cutting the accordion out of the drain is a good one. I've had too many of those break to use them anymore.

Please quit running the car without oil being fed to the turbo.

I swear there's a restrictor and adapter in that kit you snapped pics of...

Also, the suggestion about cutting the accordion out of the drain is a good one. I've had too many of those break to use them anymore.
Trust me I don't run the car without the feed line hooked up. Thats how I know it's leaking. I have no idea what piece is the adaptor in that pic. If it's the one I circled up in that pic. We used that on the 3way adaptor on the back of the block. What is the restrictor and how do you use it? This is what I been the adaptor for.
http://i28.tinypic.com/oh4ydy.jpg

K I found this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260570869952&viewitem=&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26its%3DI%26otn%3D2&category=33742. Thread spec is 4AN and 1/8 NPT. Will that fit on mine?

You need to find the thread size for the t25 then buy an adapter. Im not sure of the threads on it since I have never ran one of those turbos.

You need to find the thread size for the t25 then buy an adapter. Im not sure of the threads on it since I have never ran one of those turbos.

Restrictor came in today. No smoke what so ever coming from anywhere. No leaks either. But Some reason IM pushing 7psi now..lol Will that be ok? And is it normal for my vac line from WG to turbo getting really got. Almost to hot to touch.

Well, here it is. Video is short cause I was in a hurry (busy highway) But not smoke as u can tell. Just need alittle ajusting to BOV.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=syQDLTG_G-A

The lines will get hot just from the heat from the motor/turbo. Just make sure it doesn't end up cracking. I used fuel line once and it cracked and leaked badly.

Glad it's working good now. Looked good driving. Must have the 7lb spring in there. You can keep that no prob. Ran mine like that til it blew. But if you want less try the other ones. Just make sure you don't go over 8 (just to play it safe).

Congrats tho!

The lines will get hot just from the heat from the motor/turbo. Just make sure it doesn't end up cracking. I used fuel line once and it cracked and leaked badly.

Glad it's working good now. Looked good driving. Must have the 7lb spring in there. You can keep that no prob. Ran mine like that til it blew. But if you want less try the other ones. Just make sure you don't go over 8 (just to play it safe).

Congrats tho!

Thanx. lol ya I took the front bumper off to show off the cooler. Theres guy in a yellow golf turboed with his off, so I would show him out...lol

It wouldn't hurt to invest in a wideband o2. Just so you know your getting the fuel you need.

It wouldn't hurt to invest in a wideband o2. Just so you know your getting the fuel you need.

Ya some1 told about that. Going to look at getting one tomm. I started hearing some clicking sound yesterday when driving it, got worried and it turned out being my dump tube from my WG. Haven't got it welding to downpipe yet.

But something I have been meaning to ask. Will my tranny keep up with the turbo? Cause when I get on it, it feels like the trans is over reving or something. It sounds and feels just like an auto when it's slipping. Tranny should be in good shape cause I had it rebuilt. LOL and I still can't seem to get the BOV right. It's starts blowing at about 5 grand, way before I even shift. So I should harden it more?

Ya 'harden' the BOV just a little. Only turn it a 1/4 each time. Test, try again.

Not understanding the 'trans over revving.' The trans are good for a decent amount of power amazingly. It's the clutch that will die long before the trans itself. It's it's slipping than the rpms will go up without the car moving. If that's the case, it may be why the BOV is letting go so early too as there's no longer a load on the motor when the clutch slips, causing the motor to go to vacuum and lose all charged air.

I just changed that clutch to. Hope it wasn't a bad one. Oh off topic, but today when I was driving and the speedometer stoped working, but the stock tack still works. Do they run off a different fuse and not together?

Speedo is a seperate sensor on the top of the trans below the batter tray. They're known for the little gear to break off. That may have happened. But check the connector to it first make sure it didnt pop out or anything

Speedo is a seperate sensor on the top of the trans below the batter tray. They're known for the little gear to break off. That may have happened. But check the connector to it first make sure it didnt pop out or anything

K I'll give it a look today. There is a guy in town who tunes cars for $200.00. So next week hopefully IM going to have him tune it for me. Any other suggestions on keeping everything cool under the hood? I can drive to work which is about 10 minutes away and it gets pretty hot.

The closest (big) city from me is like an hour and a half away but not sure if heat would be an issue not to drive so far.

How do you plan on tuning it? You don't have any fuel management.

Engines get hot. That turbo gets up to couple hundred degrees on the outside. Boosting or not. They make turbo blankets that wrap around the exhaust side which is supposed to help, but I've never used one.

You really shouldn't have to worry about the temps in the bay. Just keep your eye on the coolant temp and make sure it doesn't start raising up. With the FMIC and the A/C, you're blocking air from going to the radiator, so really just keep on eye on it. You have both fans in there as well or no?

Yea there is no way to tune your car at all. You have absolutely no adjustment in that fuel system. Thats why I said buy a wb02 and just make sure your putting enough fuel in the motor and you will be ok. The trans are good for ungodly amounts of power somehow. People are putting down 500+whp on the stock tranny. I guess its bc its fwd and it just spins the tires instead of really loading it up. Your not pushing that much power so the clutch shouldn't be slipping but I guess it is possible. Like dave said if the rpms go up and the speed doesn't the clutch is slipping

Yea there is no way to tune your car at all. You have absolutely no adjustment in that fuel system. Thats why I said buy a wb02 and just make sure your putting enough fuel in the motor and you will be ok. The trans are good for ungodly amounts of power somehow. People are putting down 500+whp on the stock tranny. I guess its bc its fwd and it just spins the tires instead of really loading it up. Your not pushing that much power so the clutch shouldn't be slipping but I guess it is possible. Like dave said if the rpms go up and the speed doesn't the clutch is slipping

Wait IM confused. I have an FMU. Or is it a different thing? Been meaning to say I have an MSD, just never got around to hooking it up. Would that help make the car run better in some ways?

You have an FMU. All it does it raise your fuel pressure 12psi for every pound of boost to force fuel into the motor. There is no adjustment on it to tune.

You mean like an MSD coil pack? It may help some by giving the motor better spark. Also did you change your plugs when you turboed it? You should be running brk7e or bpr7e plugs. one heat range colder than stock.

You have an FMU. All it does it raise your fuel pressure 12psi for every pound of boost to force fuel into the motor. There is no adjustment on it to tune.

You mean like an MSD coil pack? It may help some by giving the motor better spark. Also did you change your plugs when you turboed it? You should be running brk7e or bpr7e plugs. one heat range colder than stock.

An MSD ignition system. Sorry should of said that. I have 10mm plug wires by Magnecor running now. What is the difference between brk7e and bpr7e? Which is better for stock? And where is the best place to purchase them?

Which MSD ignition? the DIS 2? You really dont need that right now. The stock timing maps are fine for low boost. Both plugs are basically the same. Some places only carry one or the other tho. Any parts store should have them. If they say they dont then just tell them you want a plug 1 heat range colder than stock

Advanced Auto carries NGK BPR7ES plugs for $1.99 a piece. my .02 cents

Which MSD ignition? the DIS 2? You really dont need that right now. The stock timing maps are fine for low boost. Both plugs are basically the same. Some places only carry one or the other tho. Any parts store should have them. If they say they dont then just tell them you want a plug 1 heat range colder than stock

Ya dis 2. But why is my idle at 2rpm? I adjusted it and it will not go down at all.


http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac348/420Aspeed/SDC11300.jpg

2k rpms? A motor can only idle high for one reason. Its pulling in to much air at idle. This can be caused by a few reasons, vac leak, IAC is bad, throttle cable adjusted wrong, etc

And you dont need the DIS 2 either. Stock ignition timing is fine for low boost. You need it above 15psi which you wont be able to do unless you build the motor, but even then you will need to upgrade fuel and most of us run megasquirt which does ignition timing also so if that was mine I would sell it for a couple hundred.

The only reason you should keep it is if you are planning on building the motor and running portfueler to tune the fuel with.

Ya I thought about selling it. I Have a brand new IAC just never put it in. I'll try that first and see if that fixes it.

How bad would it be to run W/O my FMU? Just fuel line from firewall to rail? Cause my FMU leaks bad on the part from the fmu to the rail. Is it ok just just run w/o it until I can find a hose barb to put on my fmu?

Uhh, doesn't an FMU account for boost (rising rate)?

Stop half-assing stuff.

No it's not fine at all. For every pound of boost you hit, the FMU raises fuel pressure by 12psi. Obviously if you NEED the FMU when going turbo, taking it off is not going to work. You'll run lean, hit fuel cut, and blow up your motor.

Don't drive it and get the proper fitting or whatever is leaking.

How bad would it be to run W/O my FMU? Just fuel line from firewall to rail? Cause my FMU leaks bad on the part from the fmu to the rail. Is it ok just just run w/o it until I can find a hose barb to put on my fmu?

I picked up some barb fittings from lowes that worked fine. On another note how did you install this FMU. You didn't put it on the fuel rail feed line did you?

At this point I'm expecting the oil drain...

Yep, I may be a bit harsh in my last couple of posts, but half-assing, doing without thinking, poor decision making...all of these help to further hurt the DSM rep. AS someone who's been in the scene for 13+ years, it hurts when I see this stuff happen.

I picked up some barb fittings from lowes that worked fine. On another note how did you install this FMU. You didn't put it on the fuel rail feed line did you?
Ya I cut the hose running from the fuel rail to the fire wall in half and put the FMU in between. Just hard to get the hose and the hose clamp on the FMU where the fuel rail goes to, cause the nimple on the top of FMU is to close to the FMU causing me not to get the hose on good. Well, I wont drive it till it fixed.

Can you put your car and mod list in your sig so we know what setup its running. I was trying to find the yr of your car to see if the fuel reg was on the rail or on the filter. Now back to the FMU IF it is tapped into the fuel line on the driver side of the rail then this is wrong and its not raising your fuel pressure at all. If your car is a 95 and has the FPR on the rail then there will be a return line on the passenger side and if you tapped into this line it would be correct

IIRC, it's a 95, and I believe after some time trying to explain, it is hooked up on the proper line.

Rule #1 on hoses... must on and clamped perfectly. No exceptions. Especially when it comes to fuel so it's such a thin fluid.

The passenger side has no fuel line at all I can see. The 95 has it on the driver side, directly from the fire wall to the rail where I have the FMU. I called mitsubishi to make sure. I also checked my haynes book.

I finnaly got a hose barb and have no leaks now. There is a HUGE difference in the pick up when I hit the gas. Feels real good.:rofl:

K IM driving down the road and the car dies like not getting any fuel after about 10 minutes of driving. But I have looked ALL over the passenger side and can't find any kind of fuel hose to rail. Only on driver side. I just went and looked and there are 2 lines on the driver side. One line from the firewall to rail which where I have FMU and a line from the rail to my filter. Just to double check, the line I have it on is correct? Where is ya'lls located? I have seen a few people put there FMU under the car, under the passenger seat. Mine is under the hood. Silvr you get my PM?

The 95s have the send/return on the drivers side. You got your stuff hooked up right on there. 96+ have to have the FMU in the back.

I forgot to get back to your text yesterday. It sounds like the turbo is seizing up. Something may not be right with it.

I called the guy that rebuilt it and he said it sounds like something is going on, on the inside. I asked if i had a warrenty but I don't. Which I was told I would. He said I can tighten it myself but there are some torque specifications on the nutt to the turbine wheel. Any1 know it?

Could you explain what the problem was again? I don't have the texts anymore. I thought the wheel was seizing up? Is the nut not on tight then? I'm confused

Could you explain what the problem was again? I don't have the texts anymore. I thought the wheel was seizing up? Is the nut not on tight then? I'm confused

The turbo was making a grinding sound like it was dry. But yesterday I took the feed and the return line off to make sure oil was being cycled and it is. Now it makes a whining sound. When I gas it, it doesn't go over 0psi. I can grab the turbine wheel on the side where the cone goes and it wiggles almost freely. I can grab it and pull it in and out the turbo, not far but it moves pretty ez. When I called the guy who rebuilt it, he said it's not suppost to move in and out at all. He also said if the nutt was loose that to tighten it, it has some torque specifications. Plus he said he put JB weld on it. That doesn't sound to safe to me at all with the JB.

First time it messed up is when the wheel wouldn't move at all. I had to take my finger to get it started. Checked all my cooler piping to make sure nothing was loose and it was fine.

He probably just put jb weld on it to keep it from backing out. The turbo should have no in and out play. Look at the housing around the wheel and see if there is scraps where the wheel has hit the housing.

My turbo seized a couple times because there was a kink in my oil line. I was able to break it free though and luckily it's not damaged. Sounds like it may have been starved and did the same. As Silvr said, should be no play at all. The side to side AND in and out worries me. Even if just the nut were loose, it would just have in and out play, not both.

The guy is going refund my money. I went ahead and bought another t25 JDM. It comes with the internal WG set at 8psi, so I might use the internal instead so I might need some advice on how to set it to 5psi. Like silver said about turbo prices. I paid $500 for that rebuild and hell I bought this brand new JDM for $425.

What's a JDM t25?
$425 for a t25? Wow... still very pricey.

Well glad he's refunding the money. You can't drop the psi below the wastegate spring. So if the spring is for 8, you can not get it below there. And it's very hard to find an internal spring smaller than 10.

Hopefully "JDM" doesn't mean "off an RB25" or you just made more work...

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