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01-16-2003, 03:30 PM
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#1 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2002
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Question about brake line upgrade
Another thing that failed the crappy Maryland State Inspection was my brake rotors, which isn't that important since im gettin new brakes anyways. Im ordering the brakes tonight, im gettin the EBC Slotted/Dimpled Rotors, Green Stuff Brake Pads, and Goodridge Steel braided brake lines all the way around. My question is, when i take off my old brake lines and replace them with the new ones, do i have to drain out all the brake fluid? Or can i just pinch the ho's? Plz let me know how i'm suppose to do this, as im a brake virgin. Also, how long do you think it will take to replace the rotors, pads, and lines all the way around (front and back)? Thanx all.....again.
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Born 2/19/85: Thats right ladies, the BMan is Legal!! ;-) Totallin My 89 CRX Si: +$2700 Buyin It Back From Insurance: -$50 Buying a 90 CRX Si: -$2200 Gettin to start over with more money and knowing i screwed insurance w/out trying: Priceless It doesn't matter if you win by an inch or.........wait, thats been said already. On the road of life there are passengers and......no, thats been done too. Dang, all the good sayings have already been said, ohwell. -BMan original |
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01-16-2003, 03:39 PM
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#2 | |
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AF Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2002
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You will need to bleed all the brakes. When you take the lines off fluid is going to drip down from the hardline and air is going to get into the lines. What you need to do is get a flare nut wrench and remove the brake lines from the hardline that sticks out of the body. Put a rag over it to stop the dripping. Then unbolt the brake line from the caliper. Then do the reverse to install the new lines to the body and caliper. Once you have done that to all the brake lines you need to bleed them. If I was you I would buy a Mity-Vac from Pep Boys or a Vacuum Gun from Sears. It will allow you to bleed the brakes yourself and much easier than the pressing the pedal method. Get some new fluid DOT 4, Castrol GTLMA is pretty good. Use the vac to suck out all the old fluid until the MC is dry and all the lines have no fluid. Then fill the Master Cylinder with the new fluid and bleed the lines, always make sure the MC is at least half way full. You get the point. Go to...
http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/reardiscswap.html It deals with brakes and bleeding them and how to do it and anything.
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http://www.fourthgenhatch.com FOR SALE: Get this stuff out of my house! -Stock hood (red) $30 -Stock Rear Spoiler (red) $30 -Stock mirrors $30/both -Stock side front and rear side glass $30/piece |
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01-16-2003, 03:41 PM
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#3 | |
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AF Enthusiast
Join Date: May 2002
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You'll have to bleed the brakes after replacing the lines so you might as well replace all the fluid in the system. It's cheap insurance. Brake fluid absorbs water which lowers the boiling point which affects your braking performance. Moisture in the fluid is also a major cause for wheel cylinder failure.
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01-16-2003, 10:45 PM
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#4 | |
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AF Regular
Join Date: Dec 2002
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what he said
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