good hobby clear...?

[Ferrari TR]

I've got a few projects around that are ready for clear.
A couple are in MM enamel and there's one in lacquer FNP while yet another is wearing a coat of HOK's Kustom Kolor enamel.
I hope there is a single clear that will work well on all of them. I can get Tamiya, Gunze and MM/Testors in enamel, acrylic and lacquer. I really would prefer something in a bottle to shoot though one of my AB's, though I will decant a rattle can if I have to. Let me know your fav's.

[MPWR]

Well, if you want one clear that will go over all of them I'd go with Tamiya acrylic clear. It's easy to airbrush (thin it wiht Tamiya acrylic thinner!), and won't react with enamel or laquer.

[rsxse240]

well all of the paints described are enamel clear safe. I have been quite satisfied with the Testors colors by boyd high gloss clear, though it's hard to find anymore. it lays down nicely (I use about a 50/50 mix of clear/model master airbrush thinner for mine, and spray a couple heavier coats, being careful not to run/drip), I have never had any luck with any other clear.

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by MPWR

Well, if you want one clear that will go over all of them I'd go with Tamiya acrylic clear. It's easy to airbrush (thin it wiht Tamiya acrylic thinner!), and won't react with enamel or laquer.

I second that motion.

Tamiya waterborne acrylics are bottled, so no decanting is necessary. I thin the clear about one to one. I also agree about Tamiya thinner. It's a lot more expensive than water (Who knew?) or a water/alcohol/detergent mix, but it doesn't cloud the clear and I think it levels better and has less tendency to sag and run. (That's just my highly unscientific observation.)

If your color coat has been sanded and is free of orange peel, and you spray just to the "wet point," the Tamiya clear will give you a great shine with little or no polishing.

If you spray too heavily, you can quickly put the model under warm running water and "hose off" the fresh clearcoat. As you do that, brush gently with a soft toothbrush. If you spot any fresh dried clearcoat, scrub it off with the help of some alcohol. Let the model dry completely and try again. Can't do that with enamel!

Let us know how your projects come out, Ferrari TR. Your work is beautiful!

Didy

[mrawl]

What's the acrylic clear like to polish? You couldn't wet sand it surely? And even a compound would rip it up wouldn't it? Also, is there any problems with little bubbles/pricks in the clear? (I get that from time to time when ab'ing acrylics)

[Mr. Me.]

TAmiya TS-13 from can. the best, I think.

[Ferrari TR]

I was leaning toward the Tamiya acrylic before I asked.
A bunch of my local club mates use Duplicolor clear decanted but I really hate to do that.
I've used the MM boyds clear before, Though I got good results it is a bit to 'amber' in color for my taste and the MM thinner is just too expensive.
I normally thin enamels with rather hot lacquer thinner.
As for the bubbles/bumps in acrylic I've always found that the most common cause is too much air pressure. I know from experience that I almost always under thin clear paint regardless of the type I'm using.
Has anyone used the MM acryl clear?

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by mrawl

What's the acrylic clear like to polish? You couldn't wet sand it surely? And even a compound would rip it up wouldn't it? Also, is there any problems with little bubbles/pricks in the clear? (I get that from time to time when ab'ing acrylics)

Tamiya clear cures to a pretty hard finish. You can polish it after it's cured for a couple of days. I've never had problems with bubbles.

Try it and see what you think.

Didy

[MPWR]

Yeah, Tamiya acrylic clear polishes out just fine. I'll dig out my pics of my 996 again if anyone wants to see.

Put it on with plenty of thinner, relatively low spray pressure, in lots of very thin light coats.

TS-13 over enamels on the other hand is an excellent recipie for disaster.

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by mrawl

Also, is there any problems with little bubbles/pricks in the clear? (I get that from time to time when ab'ing acrylics)

Pricks? Sounds like a case of fisheyes - "holes" where the paint/clearcoat didn't adhere to the surface. Once that happens, I don't know of any solution except to remove the paint and start over, starting with a scrubbing with soapy water - and complete drying - before every coat. Skin oil from handling is the worst offender, but mystery droplets (insect excrement?) can fall out of the air and contaminate the surface.

Didy

[patoffspyder]

I used lots of types of clear, but since I started to use Urethane Clear, this is the only thing I use. This stuff is so shiny, there is no need to polish it.

But it smells pretty bad, you need a mask and a well ventilated area.

[jmwallac]

Originally Posted by Ferrari TR

Has anyone used the MM acryl clear?

I can't really add anything else so I'll comment on this: I have used it and the X22 and prefer the Tamiya. Can't really explain why, but it just seems to go on easier and has a better shine. The MM took about 4 coats and didn't look like I was ever going to get a shine out of it.

I thin the X22 with 91% and get no clouding. Never tried the Tamiya thinner. If you look at MPWR's 996 you'll see how nice it can look. (The flat base, however, clouds up with any thinner I use.)

Here is a thread I started with examples from MPWR and Cifnet showing acrylic clears: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=702576

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by patoffspyder

I used lots of types of clear, but since I started to use Urethane Clear, this is the only thing I use. This stuff is so shiny, there is no need to polish it.

But it smells pretty bad, you need a mask and a well ventilated area.

Tamiya is very good stuff, but you're right: two-part urethane automotive paint is the best of the best.

How much do you thin it? I tend to shoot it too thick, but I'm afraid it'll lose adhesion if I reduce it too much. The guys at the paint shop say not to thin it at all, but they're talking about pro sprayers and 1:1 cars, not shooting a 1/43 car with an airbrush.

You're right; there's no need to polish it. It goes on very evenly, with no tendency to run or sag. Aside from the toxicity hassle, using it is a true pleasure.

The same is true of Dupont ChromaColor urethane color base. I get the stuff that body shops use for small jobs; it doesn't require a separate hardener. The automotive paint shop will mix 2 oz. of any color in the DuPont books for about $14. You have to reduce it 1:1 with some noxious stuff called UR40.

After having gotten pretty sick from foolishly using urethane-based paint with no protection, I only shoot these paints outdoors, and always wear a professional respirator specifically for paint. I literally don't open a jar of paint or reducer without wearing my respirator!

It's a bit inconvenient; my area gets breezy in the afternoon so I can only shoot in the morning. But it's worth it.

Ddy

[patoffspyder]

I use PPG Urethane clear. The ratio I use is 31 (clear:hardener:thinner)

It's a bit expensive at first, but you can clear so many cars with a 16 oz kit.

[Didymus]

Originally Posted by patoffspyder

I use PPG Urethane clear.

Can you get those 16 oz. kits online?

Didy