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#1
08-20-2002, 10:45 PM
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2002 BMW M3 Oil change
I tried to change the Oil and filter myself between scheduled factory recommendations last week. I got under the car, removed the plastic cover and could not find the oil drain plug!
Does anybody know where? I'm going nuts. Thank you. 
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#3
02-22-2003, 06:12 PM
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I found it
Yes, don't bother removing the large cover up front.
Under the car, look further back and you'll see a small plastic cap. Flip it off with a regular screwdriver. Then, bingo, you'll see the oil drain plug. Changing he oil filter is easy since it's up front. Make sure you use the Castrol 10-60 oil. Good luck.
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#6
09-05-2004, 07:09 PM
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Many thanks for your reply Antiburn...
I had a quick look at the weekend...First oil change i've done on my new car (3000 mile oil change, in between the standard BMW service intervals). Not sure if our German friends have changed the stud for the 2004 models...as when i removed the small cover to reveal the sump plug, it appeared to be just a circular stud with no outside hex to get a socket onto it. Although i did try various different allen hex and star drives which were either to small or to big... I guess i need to take a closer look... I'll post my findings back.. Cheers Mark
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#7
09-06-2004, 05:40 PM
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BMW E46 M3 2004 / OIL & FILTER CHANGE INSTRUCTIONS
Finally got there and have now compiled the following instructions which i hope will be of some worth to others..... 1.Drive car until water/oil reaches normal operating temp. 2.Jack the car. 3.Lever the small drain plug cover off with a screwdriver to reveal the sump plug.(no need to remove the large belly pan cover. Look much further back to find a small plastic circular shaped cover). 4.The sump plug on my 2004 M3 is a circular alloy stud with no outside hex to get a socket onto it. It is removed with a 6mm hex bit. With it being only 6mm, ensure that the hex bit is pushed thoroughly into the stud when removing or replacing. Remove the sump plug and drain oil. With the sump plug at the very rear end of the sump, I found it best to have the front of the car slightly elevated. This will ensure maximum oil drain. 5.Whilst the oil is still draining from the sump, remove the oil filter cover by using a 13mm socket.(easliy found at the top/front of the engine bay).Filter is best removed whilst oil is still draining because when the oil filter cover is released, further oil flows from the oil filter housing back into the sump. 6.Replace oil filter(part no: 11 42 7 833 242) in oil filter housing. 7.Replace sealing ring in oil filter cover, sealing ring and new washer on bolt,as supplied with replacement oil filter.(lightly lubricate the new seals with some engine oil.(this will aviod seals twisting/kinking whilst torquing back up). Torque bolt to 25nm 8.Once oil has fully drained, replace sump plug with new copper washer, as supplied with replacement oil filter. Torque plug also to 25nm 9.Fill up with 5.5 Litres of Castrol TWS(Ten W Sixty). 10.Checking Level on dipstick will most probably show high at the moment because of the oil filter housing being empty. Adjust Level after engine has been run/driven for a few minutes/miles. 11.Happy days...Job done.... Drive safe... Regards Mark (England/UK) Last edited by m3head; 09-07-2004 at 06:32 PM.
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#8
09-06-2004, 06:21 PM
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Re: 2002 BMW M3 Oil change
He doesnt say dont burn yourself with the 200 degree oil while it gets all over your hands. Thats happened to me a few times and its not that fun at all.
I just dont see why drive the car around and get it warm? All the oil would be spread all over the engine when its warm. If its cold all the oil should have flowed back down into the oil pan. Correct me if Im wrong but wouldnt it be better if the car was cold instead?
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#9
09-07-2004, 06:29 PM
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Oh yes.. and wear protective gloves if you dont want hot oil over your hands!
I've always ensured i only drain oil when the engine / oil is at normal operating temperature. Just a personal habit i've aquired over the years. I've based this on few factors. 1. IF you do have to start a cold car and move it to a position on your drive to do the oil change then i would prefer to get the oil hot and thinner which would be much better than trying to drain cold higher viscosity oil. 2. Every time an engine cools from nomal operating temperature there is a build up of condensation inside the engine and I would just prefer to get the oil circulating so as it picks up any rubbish, and get it hot so it easily flows back in to the sump and into your drain container.. Comparing my oil change with a dealer oil change... My oil change show cleaner every time. I believe this is because when you drive your car to a garage/dealer, you park it in thier parking facilities. The engine and oil cools for several hours until someone gets around to working on your car. They don't warm the engine/oil correctly which keeps the oil of higher viscosity and thus prevents a full drain. Add to that... the fact that they want your car in and out of the workshop asap, so can't wait for the final slow 1/0.5 Litre. So in my eyes a cold drain is never a full drain. So righly or wrongly, hot oil or cold oil?..it's just my view on how an oil change should be done. Anyone else have any views on changing oil? Any tips etc? Regards Mark
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