Tamiya Polycarbonate Spray paint

[exhaust smoke]

Hi all,

I was wondering why Tamiya's polycarbonate spray paints cannot be used on injection plastic kits? Can anyone shed any light on the reason why it cannot be used?

[RallyRaider]

They're formulated for use on clear lexan bodies. They don't stick too well to polystyrene plastic alegedly. Never tried them on 'styrene myself so I'm just going by commonly held wisdom. I seem to recall one guy who used the flourescent pink on a Stohl Focus. Worked okay with some care. Would be better options around in 99.9% of cases if you look.

They are still very useful however. I use them to colour ribbon for seatbelts and the clear fuel resistant top coat (acrylic in a bottle) for coating tyres after the decals. Great stuff where you need some flexability.

[SteveK2003]

I cannot comment on their application on other surfaces either, but I think if you prime it, you might be OK. They go over bare Lexan/polycarbonate, and have a flex agent so they will not flake off as the bodies flex and rattle around (Regular enamel just peels off on it's own). I was told by some guys who painted R/C wheels with polycarbonate paint (Pactra I believe) that it melts the plastic a little, so definitely prime it.

Also be warned that it dries flat, so you'll have to clearcoat it.

You might be able to find the color you need it Parma's Faskolor line: That is basically Createx, possibly with a flex agent depending on whom you believe.

[Twowheelsrule]

I have used PS-46 iridescent purple/green Tamiya Polycarbonte paint over Tamiya plastic model primer. I followed the color coat with Tamiya clear to achieve a wonderful gloss. The car was the Aoshima VIP Lexus 430. I had no problems what so ever and I would definitely do it again.

Mark

[MPWR]

It's really not formulated to be an outer surface- it's intended to be painted from the inside of a clear plastic shell, so the shell itself provides the 'finish'. Sure, it probably can be done- but why? If you try hard enough, you can also probably get a passible finish on a model car with house paint. If there's a color you gotta have, or if being unconventional gives you a rush, go for it (I understand toothpaste can also be used for filler!)- but as mentioned above, there is almost always a better option.

[SteveK2003]

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

[Gridgirl]

Originally Posted by SteveK2003

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

Oh Goody! It's AF Hints from Heloise.

[klutz_100]

Originally Posted by Gridgirl

Oh Goody! It's AF Hints from Heloise.

[exhaust smoke]

Thanks for all your responses. Sounds like with a little preparation, it is possible to apply these poly paints to plastic.

I will definitely have a go... especially using toothpaste as after dinner mints (!)

[tonioseven]

Originally Posted by SteveK2003

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

Sigged! Oh, to answer the topic question, yes they can be used. I've painted several models with Pactra P/C paints succesfully by priming the surface with automotive primer. I personally just wanted to see if it could be done.

[KTem]

Originally Posted by SteveK2003

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

haha!

[gionc]

I'm also courious abt the green/purple PC finishing.

I'm used with those on RC cars/trucks (1/8and1/10) but I think Pactra is better: Tamy kind is reeeeaaally laaaazy to dry and mantain a "soft" appeal fo some time: on lexan bodies this's not important due to the fact that bodies're paint from inside: be aware also from Tamy PC smell: terrible (also outdoor) ! If you're impressed from some TS smell PC kinds just not made for you!

[Technoman]

I used to build RC cars all the time and would regularly use the PC paints to paint the plastic spoliers and/or mirror that came with Tamiya RC bodies. I used to prime with Tamiya primer, paint with the PC paint and then clear with Tamiya clear, never had a problem and always came out perfect. I agree however that if there are other non PC paint options you should probably explore those first.

[exhaust smoke]

Seems like the PC paints do work on plastic, but probably not ideal for plastic use.

I normally do use automotive paints. I have an airbrush, but am not that good at doing the thinning of paint so that they can be airbrushed, etc. Also, time is another thing that I do not have much of, so for now I am after a simple spray can

[Twowheelsrule]

What is so hard about primeing with Tamiya, painting with the PC color coat, and clearing, all with Tamiya paints. I clear almost all of my work anyway. It did not take anymore time then any other Tamiya paint job I have done.

If clear coating is too much work then, how much work are you willing to do on your model? I spend about at least 24 hours on each of my models so, what would be the point of blowing the paint job because of time.


Mark