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| WIP - Street Post topics for any "Works In Progress" street vehicles projects in this sub-forum. |
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#1
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I bought this model in EBAY and finally i have it. Model really hard to find.
![]() What do you think of painting this model with a cover of tamiya clear paint? With the pass of the time won't it be made yellowish? Model is in clear plastic. Patron decals are included but I donīt like it. (brown light decals) Color decals are very strange. Generally are black or similar. Regards |
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#2
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Re: Ferrari F50 Full view.
I think it's a very cool model. If you spray the outside AND the inside of the clear body, the yellowing will take quiet a while. Most important thing is not to scratch it
![]() BTW, are you painting the mirrors red like on the box?
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#3
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If I was going to build it all clear, after removing the seam lines inside and out and sanding out the push pin marks in the inside, I would dip each part in Future acrylic floor wax. Shouldn't ever yellow. On the other hand, having built Tamiya's F50 recently (almost to entirety!), I wouldn't do the body entirely clear. I'd pick a body color, and paint parts of the body opaque, and leave clear others. This kit screams out for a 'cutaway' type effect- but if you leave it all clear, there are parts that will look entirely not right- like the back sides of the inside door panels. You'll also have to CF alot more of the car, like the cockpit tub- if you use CF decals. And yes, the kit decals do look really strange- choose your favorite aftermarket, and use the kit declas as a shape guide.
So- gonna start it soon? Why is it that there are so few builds of this kit here?
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PHOTOBUCKET SUCKS |
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#4
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If it's clear plastic....
Why even paint it at all? I've used the same technique for polishing paint jobs on every window piece I do, sanding kit, polishing compound, followed by carnuba wax. If you fix the mold lines and push pin marks, then polish the whole body out, it will look great and never yellow.
As to why the kit is so rare, when released, it was like a $20 premium over the standard kit. I saw the prerelease at the IPMS show in Dallas in July 2000, and the factory rep said they spent a small chunk of change making the tool perfect for the clear body. The assumption would be now that it didn't sell and they didn't make that many. |
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#5
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Re: Ferrari F50 Full view.
I like this model and the other Tamiya 'Full-Views'. But I don't think any of them are really rare. The F50 does seem to be the hardest to find of the 4 original ones they did (911 GT1, CLK-GTR, TS020 and F50). I snagged a clear CLK for $15.00 just yesterday which was worth it just for the sportswear decals! It's harder to find the regular sportswear version than it's clearview counterpart.
Personally I would leave it clear and polish all the imperfections out and leave it as it is. This one looks great with the tinted windows that it comes with (diffferent to regular kit) but the kit CF decals are awful. Doesn't SMS make a CF kit for this?
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Not so recently completed, I will get another done soon...: |
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#6
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Re: Re: Ferrari F50 Full view.
Quote:
That means that leave the plastic without clear paint ? I agree with you, CF decals are awful. What CF decals recommend me ? Scale motorsport ? if you know reference number part. do I need something more in order to paste the CF decals? Last edited by Jaimenew; 04-26-2005 at 11:45 AM. |
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#7
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Re: Ferrari F50 Full view.
Nice kit. It would be nice to see it paited a bit.
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#8
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Possibly I would paint half of the car and leave the other half clear. Then the other side of the car would look realistic and the other side would show what's inside. They have cars like that sometimes in the bigger international car shows.
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OPEL Performance In progress: Caterham Super Seven 1:12 etc. Real cars: Pontiac GTO (Holden Monaro), Opel Calibra Turbo 4x4 (13.7s 1/4 mile), Opel Vectra GT 16V (16.0s 1/4 mile) |
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