Supercharging 100,000 mile GS-R?

[PiNoY GsR RaCeR]

I was thinking lately of getting the Vortech Supercharger for my '94 Integra GS-R. The thing is that I just reached 100,000 miles on it. I don't drive it hard or anything and the car still runs pretty strong. I was wondering if it is okay for me to put in the Vortech Supercharger in a 100,000 mile GS-R. I really want to gain power and I will have this car for a long time so I want to make it fast in the long run. Will it run okay with the stock internals?

Also, do I need to buy or upgrade anything for my engine? I know most of you will say internals like pistons, rods, valves, etc. I'm just wondering if my engine can stand the Vortech SC with stock internals besides i/h/e. Thanks!

[drift]

according to Vortech, the system should be compatible with a stock block.

as for 100,000 miles, it really depends. get a leakdown and compression check on your motor. if compression in all 4 cylinders is 180 or higher, with less than 10% deviation for all four cylinders, and you have less than 3% leakdown, i say go right ahead.

if this is not the case, then i reccommend a rebuild prior to supercharging.

i turbo'd my prelude with 90,000 miles on it and for the most part, it has caused no problems.

[PiNoY GsR RaCeR]

Where can I can a leakdown and compression check at? Will any repair shop be just fine? And how much will the test cost?

And as for a rebuild, does that mean new pistons, rods, connectors, camshafts, cam gears, valves, valve springs, etc.?

Btw, will the Vortech Supercharger put a lot of stress on my engine thus shortening the life of the engine dramatically? I know that adding F/I will put stress on any engine but I just want to know how much and for how long my engine can maintain that.

[kane2g]

accoriding to theoldone.com

Raising your rev limit by 1000RPM will cause more damage than boosing it w/ 10PSI.

so you can safely run the SC w/o any worry.

Leakdown test can be done by any decent shop, and if they dont know what it is, walk out and never go there again. compression test is very easy and you can do it yourself. Its a gauge you screw into the sparkplug hole and have a friend turn ocer your engine, it can be picked up at any auto parts store.

Buildup of the bottom end is very crucial when going w/ FI or high power. The more you make the bottom end "bulletproof" the more life and reliability you will get from it, so dont be worried about spending some money on it, its going to a good use. Most common is to change the pistons/rods, but adding a blockguard and even bluerinting and balncing is good. when you change the pistons, you might want to get the cylinder overbored .020, that makes sure that the cylinder walls are perfectly round. and it cost about 100 for all 4 cylinders.
Knifeedging the crank is done also, but its not required. If you want to go all out dry sump oil pickup system is a good way to go, but thats probably too much.
The more work you do at the machine shop, the better deal they will give you.

Hope this helps

[PiNoY GsR RaCeR]

Ok, with building the bottom end in mind I want to know if that changing to aftermarket pistons and rods will still make my engine smog and street legal. Do any of you know of any smog and street legal pistons and rods that give good power? Aod for how much for the parts and install?