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#1
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Buildup of B18C1 vs. frakenstein engine
I've got a 2000 Integra GS-R (B18C1) basically stock, and I'm looking to buy another engine/tranny/ignition/ECU and build it up.
Goals: 250hp @ wheels, all motor higher redline (9000-10000 rpm) looks/sounds as close to stock as possible still tolerable and reliable enough for daily driving safe to put a 15psi turbo or supercharger on later I've seen a lot of banter back and forth about putting B18C heads atop the B20 block, using a B17 crankshaft, etc. I'm trying to gather as much as possible about the ideal crank/block/head combination, with no price limits. I'm expecting this project to end up at about $10,000 US. Thus far, the general idea is to make the following upgrades: Bottom End: clutch (clutchmaster) flywheel (ITR or clutchmaster) connecting rods (ITR or crower) pistons (98 ITR - 10.6:1) Tranny: limited slip differential (undecided - any advice?) JDM Type-R final drive (4.78:1) Perhaps a less aggressive 1st gear want to look at stronger CV's - I snapped 5! in my old 4g civic Head: camshafts (skunk2) adj. cam gears (aem) valves/springs/retainers/sleeves (JUN and skunk2) milled head mugen metal head gasket port-matched exhaust to Spec-R pulleys (unorthodox) alternator pulley (if unorthodox doesn't come w/ one) Electrical: ignition (crane) ECU Mod (G-Force custom-programmed) w/ 9500rpm redline, better A/F mixture mapping Intake/Exhaust: AEM cold air (long-throw) intake manifold - not sure yet individual breather cap for crank case ITR 4-1 headers ITR cat. converter skunk2 Invidia cat-back suspension/brakes/wheels: any given 17x8 wheels yokohama AVS tires to match koni adj. shocks eibach pro-kit springs slotted rotors in front old front rotors moved to rear I'm wondering if there's a better block/head combo than the B18C1 to start with here. Since I'm looking to buy a completely separate engine, I'm open to anything. Is there anything hideous and awful I'm including or missing? |
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#2
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I don't know which Frankenstien swap you are refering to, there are many of them. If you mean a type R head on your B18C1, that is a possibility of course, although probably not a dramatically beneficial one. However, I do know that any swapping of heads might make your car a little unbalanced, even unreliable. But done correctly, you shouldnt have that many problems. If you are talking about 15 psi of boost however, I would reccomend getting low compression pistons and more fuel delivery. For 15 psi of boost, I would stay with the B18C1 for reliabilty purposes.
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#3
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you want to rev to 10 grand, huh? well a stroked ass b20 aint gettin the job done.
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My cars: Civic coupe EJ1. B16A, EG6 cluster. Wrecked/parting. CRX DX ED8. DOHC ZC, I/H/E. ![]() EJ1 Civic Si . Screw Hatchbacks. Coupes just look better. Period... |
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#4
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Oh yea if you want to rev 10k, you can increase the gear ratio of your final drive gears. This will make you rev higher and reach your redline faster, but you will top out at a lower speed. It's a trade of acceleration and revs for top speed. However, this shouldnt matter too much if you are just going to be racing 1/4 miles.
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#5
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Quote:
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2004 Sonic Blue Ford Ranger XLT 2001 Liquid Grey Metallic Ford Focus ZX3 1995 Integra GS-R - Parting out |
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