Future Clear-Coating runny

[crab]

Has anyone else used Future to apply the clear-coat? On one of my projects, Future simply 'ran' off the body after being applied on Tamiya spray paint that has been polished and waxed -- sorta like how water runs off a slippery surface. So i'm wondering, do most ppl just apply clearcoat after spraying the model (no polishing / no waxing), or is this specific to Future and tamiya's clear will stick to anything?

Thanks.

[DSM-Mark]

I think the biggest problem here is that you applied it after waxing. Wax causes any liquid applied to bead up a lot easier, and simply 'roll' off the surface. Never apply anything (paint or clearcoat) to a surface after it has been waxed. I have also had bad experiences painting after polishing, but that may be because I did not clean the surface well enough, as I know other people have done that and been fine.

[mike united]

Originally Posted by DSM-Mark

I think the biggest problem here is that you applied it after waxing. Wax causes any liquid applied to bead up a lot easier, and simply 'roll' off the surface. Never apply anything (paint or clearcoat) to a surface after it has been waxed.

Agreed !

Mike

[freakray]

Future won't adhere to wax, as was mentioned.

If you've already done with polishing and waxing, a coat of Future or any other clear is pretty much overkill.

[proosen]

As already stated, you can not put Future nor other paints on wax. The surface will actually become like the backing paper of a sticker, non sticky so you can lift the sticker of it. You may even get problems to put any kind of paint on already after polishing. Something in the rubbing compounds contaminates the surface and you'll probably end up with fish-eyes in the following paint layer. So my tip is: No rubbing or waxing as long as you're not finished painting...just sanding between paint layers and you'll be just fine with future paint jobs. Be careful with Future as it's very thin and runs easily, there is a thin line between a wet coat and running Future. Otherwise it gives a very shiny finish if you succeeds with it.

Good luck!
Niclas

[Marianitem]

How about clear over the entire body through an airbrush?
How should I thin it, if needed?
May I wetsand/rub/polish after future clearing or would I mess it up?

I guess I got to this forum just to make thread revivals. At least I try not to open new threads about the same thing :/

[stevenoble]

My advice is to not use Future. It isn't a clear at all, it's a sealer for floors. You would do a lot better to use a proper hobby clear or an automotive clear. Why people use this stuff as a clear coat is beyond me. It was never intended as such and is a pretty poor alternative to a 'real' clear..

[Helico]

I used to be a believer in Future until it started to crack on some of my projects. I still use Future to clearcoat small parts, but for body parts, I strongly recommend proper hobby clearcoat. Future is also useful for gluing small and clear parts.

While I don't recommend Future, here are my experience and precautions with Future. Read ahead if you must.



1. When I apply Future on top of Tamiya acrylic, over large surface, it always cracks few month after polishing. This cracking issue has nothing to do with primer underneath the acrylic coat or the drying time of acrylic coat. Specifically, I applied Tamiya grey primer, dried properly for days, applied acrylic, dried for at least 1-2 weeks, sprayed Future, dried for at least 1-2 weeks before polishing.

I don't know the exact reason for cracking. My (non-sense) guess is that the acrylic layer, although dried, absorbs some H2O from Future and dries at a slower rate than Future.

2. Under the same preparation, Future does NOT crack if I spray over lacquer (Tamiya TS spray) or enamel. To prevent cracking on acrylic paint (if this is a must), I premix a little bit of Future into acrylic paint. The ratio is 1 part Future, 2 parts H2O, 1 part isopropanol and 6 parts acrylic paint. Once dried, apply Future normally as clearcoat. No cracking has been seen for 3 years now.

3. You can dilute Future with H2O or isopropanol. Stock seems too thick for me and I prefer to thin Future for spraying. The ratio I use: 1 part H2O, 1 part isopropanol and 8 parts Future. Adjust the ratio of isopropanol according to temperature and humidity to speed up or slow down drying. Drying too fast gives orange peel, while drying too slowly, it flows like flood.

4. Future does NOT dry when sprayed as thick coat. Also oddly, it occasionally does not dry over resin parts I casted even though I primed the parts properly. This is must likely due to the my resin parts.

5. Once dried completely (I usually put it aside for weeks), you can wet sand, polish and wax Future. One word about wet sanding, Future is not as tough as lacquer and 2-part clearcoat.

6. Future is completely safe on decal and other paint surfaces unless you add too much isopropanol.

7. Future never yellows.

8. Future is not toxic and smells nice.

9. Future is damn too much work to use

[935k3]

I have gotten good results for years by wiping Future on in thinner layers. I use disposable round cosmetic pads. I dip in future then damp off some on a paper towel. The technique must be practiced, pressing too hard causes dry streaks. Futures natural thinner is Ammonia not alcohol. It can be safely removed with ammonia. The only thing ammonia removes is Tamiya Acrylics. Areas can be reworked with a 50/50 mix of ammonia and Future. Also the only wax i have used over Future that does not remove it is Zymol brand which deepens it's gloss further. Small areas can be done with a Q-Tip. Every thing you want to know about Future is at this link http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

[Tibi Keke]

I use future just for two things:
- make clear parts clearer and nicer,
- helps under the decals if they are bad and make silvering.
For the rest i use Automotive 2 K clear or Gunze Acrilic clear B 501.
If you clear with Automotive 2 K clear, you get the best results.