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#1
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drivetrain oil change
Ok, so tomorrow, I got nothing to do, and I have noticed that my shifts are a little harder then normal, so I think it's time to get under the car and change the gear oil. My main question is what do you guys recommend/prefer to use.
I am going to be doing the transaxle, transfer case, and rear. This is what I got from Jeff Lucius' site: GL-4 Gear oils (transaxle and transfer case): Red Line MT-90/MTL (50/50 or 67/33 mix), BG Synchro Shift II, GM/Pennzoil/Quaker State/Texaco Synchromesh (synchromeshfluid.pdf), Valvoline Synthetic, Mobil 1 synthetic. GL-5 Gear oils (rear differential): Red Line 75W90, Valvoline Synthetic, Mobil 1 synthetic. I'm leaning towards redline. I don't know if I am really motivated enough to mix the MT-90 and the MTL(apparently it helps bring the viscosity down closer to the 85 recommended by Mitsu) My main goal is to get improvement on the shifting. As I am sure all of you know, our cars aren't the easiest in the world. On top of that, 4 or 5 times this winter, my car REALLY did not want to shift into gear when I started her up. Also, after storing it for the last 2 months on the way home there were a few red lights where it was tougher to get it into first when it turned green. So I really want to improve the shifting. What do you recommend? Also, this is the first time I am doing this. Anything you recommend or this I should be wary of. Obviously I know to make sure I open the fill plug prior to the drain plug so I don't end up SOL. But should I get new metal O-rings ahead of time? stuff like that. Thanks, Geoff
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#2
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Hard shifting is perfectly normaly when its cold out. The oil need times to warm up.
Trans and transfercase I currently have GM sycromesh in mine, but many people have said that 10w30 synthetic works better, so thats what im going to try next. Rear end Just using gear oil. |
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#3
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Re: drivetrain oil change
I've heard good things about synchromesh, except that its like 10 bucks a quart...
I attribute most of the problematic shifting early on this winter to the weather but on the way home, I had been driving the car for over 3-4 hours, and when I got off the highway and took normal roads for the last 20 mins I had some trouble getting it back into first after waiting a min or so at a red light. I don't think that's the cold weather.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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#4
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Re: drivetrain oil change
Just wanted to update you all. I drained my rear and put in mobil 1 synthetic 75w90, and swapped penzoil synchromesh in my transaxle. I didn't do the transfer case, because it was so close to my downpipe, so I am just going to wait until I swap downpipes then do it then. But I took it out for a quick spin after changing the rear and transaxle and shifting was SOOOOOOO much smoother. You can definantly tell the difference.
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96 3000gt vr4 -K&N FIPK -Proboost mbc -Cusco front + rear strut bars -Greddy type-s -ATR downpipe -no cats -15Gs, 3sx aluminum pulley, FMIC, SAFC, walboro pump, EVO 560ccs, and Meth Injection Kit all waiting to go in shortly. Your 1996 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 is the 92nd out of the 315 that were made that year. Only 21 of which are exactly identical. |
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