1993 Camry LE Idling problems

[compmatt]

I was having idling and hesitation problems the other day. I replaced the plugs and cables, which completely took care of the hesitation while accelerating, and the idling problems were gone as well.

Today however, the idling problems are back. They are very sporatic, but usually I idle at about 900-1000 rpms. The engine will dip down to about 750 or so, shake a little from this, and go back up to the regular speed. It will do this sometimes once every 5 seconds... and sometimes about 2 times a second at its worst.

Someone suggested I might also replace the distributor cap and rotor. I have never had engine problems at all. I was concerned perhaps I did not preform the part replacement properly, but as I said it worked fine right after, and sounded perfect.

any ideas? Thanks.

[Parmenides3]

How many miles since the rotor and distributor cap were replaced?

[compmatt]

I honestly do not know.
The car had about 280K miles on it when I got it. Now it has 295K. A lot I know. I have never had any problems at all before recently.

I have never replaced the rotor or cap. And I have no way of getting the information from the previous owner.

[Parmenides3]

The little I know about engines fits in one posting. Perhaps a real tech will respond soon. I change the rotor and distributor cap every 30k miles, a common recommended interval. You could take off the cap, pull the rotor and look at it. If the electrical contact looks like a crumb from an Oreo cookie, then you might have your culprit. The parts are inexpensive and need to be replaced eventually. Don't be surprised if the rotor you buy doesn't look exactly like the old one. The advice I've gotten is to make sure that the new cap is oriented correctly when I put it on (it's easy to put in on upside down, on some cars). Some like to remove the old one with the wires still attached, install the new rotor and cap, and then remove the wires from the old cap and put them on the new cap one at a time. This prevents messing up the timing, with the wires in the wrong positions. (If this is nothing knew, sorry to take your time.) Parmenides3

[compmatt]

Ok, today I had the rotor, distributor cap, and fuel filter replaced. They also made sure the spark plugs and cables (that I replaced myself the other day) were in properly. They said everything was good. (I also found out the timing belt had been replaced shortly before I got the car)

I get back in my car, and although it drives much better now in general, it still has the _same_ idling problem. I ask the guy, and he says that it will do it for a little while, until the computer re-learns the engine.

I just don't know very much about this stuff.. Is this correct? It just sounds weird to me. Thanks.

[Joe W]

Yes.This is correct,but only for a day or two.(Depending on how much driving is done). Another area to look at is the check engine light come on?This would indicate a sensor problem.

[compmatt]

The check engine light has never come on. I will go ahead and wait a few days and see what happens. I may post back here. Thanks!

[fredbros72]

hey matt, one possibility is if the timing belt was done , it may have been set up a tooth off, which could give you these problems, have you had the timing checked, also is it a 4 or 6 cyl
need to remove upper timing cover, and make sure the crankshaft gear is lined up with the camshaft gear,
just an opinion

[compmatt]

Well it (the timing belt) would of been replaced almost two years ago when I got the car. I never had any problems until I first was having problems with smoke coming from the hood. They said it was an oil problem, and switched out my pcv valve and some gaskets. Then no more smoke.. but the idling problems etc..

after 24 hours of getting it back.. I have about 50 miles on it.. it seems even worse than before with the idling (just in gear mainly it seems), I will give it another day or two, then i'll contact the company that worked on it i guess

[fredbros72]

hey matt, any luck with the idle,
couple of things to check, egr valve could be sticking , usually causes stalling, but could effect the idle, , check the timing with a light, specs should be on a sticker on the underside of the hood, , giving the throttle body a good cleaning and lubing the iac valve, small hole on bottom of throttle housing, , and lastly , you can adjust the idle air control valve motor to bring the idle up a bit, if you would like some instruction, let me know

[compmatt]

Well I only drove a little yesterday, but It did seem much better. Could be sporatic though. They did say to wait a few days.. So I will see how it goes by monday or so. Thanks for asking. I will post back.

[compmatt]

Well It is still doing it. I took it back, and they said it was from too much compression in the crankshaft and that it was confusing the computer. They said it is running great otherwise, and that it will get me where I need to go.

They said an engine rebuild could fix it, but not worth it.

Think it is still just as safe to drive (on long trips for example) without worrying about it? Or does anyone have any tips on other things to help ?

Thanks...

[Brian R.]

"they said it was from too much compression in the crankshaft and that it was confusing the computer"

"They said an engine rebuild could fix it"

This sounds like BS to me. If you haven't tried it, clean your injectors. Make sure your fuel supply is adequate (pressure and flow - regulator and filter/fuel pump).

[compmatt]

Considering I know very very little about engines, and don't even know where those parts are.. I doubt it's something I should try myself.

So you think it would be worth taking somewhere else?

[Brian R.]

Yes, take it to a mechanic that is recommended to you (or Toyota) and ask their opinion. If they give you an expensive answer, go somewhere else.

If no one can properly diagnose it, ask someone you trust to check the fuel pressure, and if that is satisfactory, clean the injectors. They have to be removed from the engine to do an adequate job, as far as I know. Not an expensive job, maybe $100 if you have a 4 cyl.

There are alot of cheap possible fixes that you have to try before you get expensive. This sounds like a cheap problem to fix. Not necessarily easy to figure out, but cheap.

While you're at it, get a compression check on all the cylinders. If one is bad, don't waste your money without serious consideration.