Idler arm questions?

[VaderX]

I couldn't quite find any good answers to these questions can yall help me out.

Which is the best way to strengthen the idler arm?

Is a calmini or AC brace the way to go or is a truss such as SLR's the solution?

What exactly does the idler arm brace do?

What exactly does the truss do?

I am about to do a lift and I wan't to do my best to patch up the weak points on the X.

[Toy Man]

Here is my take on it.

The truss is a set of two plates that bolt onto the idler arm and reinforce it. (Sort of squeezes the arm) The truss is not compatible with the A/C brace without doing some cutting on the truss. Rick Starr has the A/C brace installed and was going to try installing the truss also. Haven't heard how that came out. I assume the truss will also interfere with the Calmini brace.

The braces anchor and support the idler arm 'pivot'. (or whatever it's called.)

I had the truss installed. Took it off when I installed the A/C brace.

Toy Man

[ToeJam]

Toyman - You went from a Truss to the brace.. is the brace better?

As I usually put in my posts.. I dont' know squat about cars... but this looks like a cheap piece of protection. The brace is fairly inexpensive and looks easy to install. Will the bracket shift your 'stuff' enough to require an alignment.

Who has the Truss for sale? Can you post a link, I can't seem to find any pics.....

[rrdstarr]

http://4x4parts.com/FrNewPro.html

Scroll to the bottom of the page. $29.95

No Senior Hamilton I have not tried to install the truss! I need to get hold of SLR for some instructions? I hold it up to the idler arm and can't make heads or tails of how it goes on?

[Toy Man]

IMHO the brace is better.

I have the A/C brace but the Calmini looks much better.
(Wasn't available when I ordered the A/C brace.)

Rick: Take the truss apart and try fitting one side. As I recall
(probably faulty), the end that sticks out the furtherest (hows that
for a description) goes on top towards the idler arm pivot point.

[fee_nx]

Another option is to look at the Moog Replacement Idler Arm. It's has grease fittings and is much stronger than the stock part.

[Schludwiller]

Originally posted by fee_nx
Another option is to look at the Moog Replacement Idler Arm. It's has grease fittings and is much stronger than the stock part.

Who's carrying that?

[FSRBIKER]

Just about any auto parts store Schlud, check the prices though as i was quoted $62-76. I could not visually see any bend in my idler arm but knew i still had some wobble in my steering after replacing the centerlink and the tie rod end bolts still did not have much clearance to the frame, after the Moog install this increased the clearance by 1/3-1/2" and the wobble is almost all gone(the rest is my Swampers).

[xoc]

Originally posted by FSRBIKER
Just about any auto parts store Schlud, check the prices though as i was quoted $62-76. I could not visually see any bend in my idler arm but knew i still had some wobble in my steering after replacing the centerlink and the tie rod end bolts still did not have much clearance to the frame, after the Moog install this increased the clearance by 1/3-1/2" and the wobble is almost all gone(the rest is my Swampers).

Wouldn't this mean the centerlink is now no longer parallel to the ground ?

If one end now has more clearance, I would think that means the taper fit is too deep and the center link is sitting too low on that end.

For $62 it's a great deal considering the Nissan idler arm is only sold as a complete unit for $99. They do not sell the bushings like Toyota does.

Is the Moog rebuildable ? What material are the bushings ?

[FSRBIKER]

Ian my centerlink was probably not parallel to the ground before the installation of the Moog idler arm as the Nissan arm does have a slight bend in it, plus a little play. I checked the clearance between the tie rod nut and the frame on my truck now vs another X with adjusted torsion bars and I can not see any difference, they are within a 1/16-1/8" of each other. I did not take the Moog unit apart to see it's construction but it looks well built, it's stamped with the saying "The problem solver" which for me it did just that.

I think if you add a idler arm brace and the SLR truss you will have a pretty stout setup but design wise the Moog unit is much better. They drop the pivot point which makes the arm straighter and reduces the twisting stress on the idler arm pivot itself, they also add a grease fitting to keep it moving freely. I have a feeling that some of the centerlink problem is occuring because the idler arm is bending and developing play which then wears on that bushing in the centerlink, unfortunately it is very hard to see visually but for $62 it fixed my problem.

[Toy Man]

Ian: The Moog web site has a good cut-a-way drawing of the idler arm.
Don't remember the exact URL

[xoc]

FSR, thanks for the reply.

I've been "studying" the centerlink wear problem for a while now. Before GOX, I replaced mine. It was shot within 7 days.
I replaced it again last month before Moab, but left my steering stabilizer off, and the relay rod seems fine.

Forces against the tire and wheel have to find a way to dissipate. On over-built Jeeps, the steering components are strong enough that the steering box mount itself fails.

On the Xterra, it seems that having a steering stabilizer absorbs too much force, and directs it to the weakest link, which apperas to be the idler arm pivot on the centerlink.

The idler arm bushings wear pretty quickly as well, but aren't replacable, which is why the Moog looks like a good replacement. My only concern is whether a stronger idler arm will pass even more force to the idler pivot like the stabilizer appears to do.

[Philosopher]

Originally posted by xoc

On the Xterra, it seems that having a steering stabilizer absorbs too much force, and directs it to the weakest link, which apperas to be the idler arm pivot on the centerlink.

My only concern is whether a stronger idler arm will pass even more force to the idler pivot like the stabilizer appears to do.

I completely disagree with this. The centerlink problem isn't unique to those folks who have a steering stabilizer. I understand that you are saying you think the stabilizer shortens the life of the centerlink but if it's properly installed it should do no such thing ...

You toasted the joint on the idler arm end of the centerlink in 7 days? Were you disconnected for that week or something?

[xoc]

Originally posted by Philosopher
You toasted the joint on the idler arm end of the centerlink in 7 days? Were you disconnected for that week or something?

Yes, I was disconnected all week at GOX.

My theory on the center link still stands. Force will find the easiest way out, and the idler end of the center link is the easiest, being nothing but a plastic bushing. The ball joints on the tie-rods have no give, neither does the pitman arm link, since it too is a ball joint. The steering box has a little bit of play, but by design.

By stopping, or reducing force anywhere along the centerlink (by using a stabilizer), that force will find it's way out somewhere, in this case, the idler pivot bushing.