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#1
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Here's the update on my Girlfriend... Yeah my motor is my girlfriend. It's like the real thing, it takes all my money and never puts out.
![]() This is take while I was gapping my plugs and putting on the wires and redoing the gasket on my valve covers. I didnt like the way I did it before so I redid it better. Now I can actually get the bolts into the holes! Here's the final deal with the valve covers bolted down, all the wires hooked up and of course the headers. Weeee aren't I just badass?.... Ok so I'm not.. but my motor is slowly getting there. Pretty soon... the list of things needed is drawing to a close. Since the motor will be done before the car is ready for it. I'll probably spend some money on having the motor broken in and professionaly dyno tuned so I can get an accurate baseline.
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2003 Chevy 1500HD - Hauler 1971 Chevy Camaro RS - Track Car User Guidelines It's important to read, like the Bible. But unlike the Bible we will strike you down if you jerk off around here. |
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#2
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question: what entails a professional break-in?
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#3
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do they run in on one of those machines at a certain rpm for a while or something to simulate miles?
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#4
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Well, basically get it started and allow it to run at idle and under a light load for about 15 minutes. Shut if off, and retighten all the bolts like the heads, headers, oil pan, valve covers... that sorta thing.
You're basically making sure there are no leaks of fluid. You can do this in the car, but if the motor is out of the car it makes it that much easier to get to bolts to tighten them.
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2003 Chevy 1500HD - Hauler 1971 Chevy Camaro RS - Track Car User Guidelines It's important to read, like the Bible. But unlike the Bible we will strike you down if you jerk off around here. |
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#5
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Looks pretty nice
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More photos and Info/website! 1994 Cobra -off road h-pipe -superchips power chips -mac cold air induction -BBK aluminum underdrive pullies -pro-m 75mm bullet MAF -18" konig wheels with nitto 555 zr tires -Ford Racing 65mm throttlebody -Ford Racing king cobra clutch -Ford Racing 3:73 Gears -Ford Racing Aluminum driveshaft -Bullit suspension/ springs,shocks,struts -Aubrun HD limited slip Diff. 2002 subaru Impreza RS - stock 1989 Toyota pickup 4x4 -K&N
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#6
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Look sweetas mate!
Not bad for dynosaur tech though j/k Ahhh the memories of the Chev V8 and that distinct sound.
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You don't own a Skyline, then don't cry to me about it! 1992 Silver R32 GTR tickled to 450hp. - Sold when I left NZ in 2004 Arguing on the Internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded. Never confuse kindess with weakness. AF user guidelines, Please remember to abide by them ![]()
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#7
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Quote:
Ah yes... but my Dynosaur tech motor is making nearly as much as yours without the aid of hair dryers. Hehe Friendly bashing aside... ![]() I'll be upgrading the technology factor of the motor in due time. Probably the first thing to get swapped will be valve train. It'll take just under $1000 to do the swap on the entire valve train to a roller camshaft. But the power gains are incredible. For another $2000 I can convert to EFI. Those two upgrades alone should be enough to push the motor to 500hp N/A. After all that I think I'll save up for Aluminum Heads, I can sell my Iron heads for some cash. So it wont be as hard of a hit. THEN... After ALL that is done. hahaha. I'll rip the motor out, and rebuild it with forged pistons (Yeah I know the forged pistons should of been in there to begin with... doh!), bring the compression down 1 point to 9.25:1 and slap on a Procharger Supercharger. That with all the rest of my goodies should put me at about 650hp on low boost.
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2003 Chevy 1500HD - Hauler 1971 Chevy Camaro RS - Track Car User Guidelines It's important to read, like the Bible. But unlike the Bible we will strike you down if you jerk off around here. |
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#8
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Sounds as though you have it sussed out! My first small block I had done in my 72 Vette was pushing @425hp mark, and I thought that was the bees knees aye. It had a fair bit of torque and in that Vette with the lighter weight went really well. Have you thought about pro-jection ( I believe that is what it is called) in stead of carbs? Or the possibility of running a tunnel ram with a twin 600 cfm setup? Should give you a well balanced inlet charge over a large single. I went to twin AFB 500 Carters and noticed a huge difference though we had to rejet them smaller as I wasn't burning all the fuel. Cam profile makes a huge difference also.
Hey you mention swapping over to ally heads, why? Other than weight for what you are trying to acheive there isn't much in it except overal cost. A really good porting job with 185/202's providing you are using the heads off an early 70's 350, perferably that off a Vette with fuel injection. They had slightly larger combustion chambers, can't remember the cc rating off hand.
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You don't own a Skyline, then don't cry to me about it! 1992 Silver R32 GTR tickled to 450hp. - Sold when I left NZ in 2004 Arguing on the Internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded. Never confuse kindess with weakness. AF user guidelines, Please remember to abide by them ![]()
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#9
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Have you thought about binning the mechanical fuel pump and water pump? I've never been a fan of that mechanical fuel pump as it puts a hell of a beating on that cam lobe, and if you go eletctric water pump you can also run electric fan(s) which is another thing I've been a fan of. I've considered on going to eletric fan on the R as I hate clutch fans full stop, plus I can preset at what temp level to come on.
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You don't own a Skyline, then don't cry to me about it! 1992 Silver R32 GTR tickled to 450hp. - Sold when I left NZ in 2004 Arguing on the Internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded. Never confuse kindess with weakness. AF user guidelines, Please remember to abide by them ![]()
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#10
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Very nice looking engine even if is a Chevy
350ci, not a stroker? FI are a lot better for the street, but that is pretty much known. Sorry for pointing out the obvious. What cam you got in there? What Compression? You Chevy boys run 2.02 and 1.85s, we normally run 2.02 and 1.65.
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R32 GTR w/351w .020 forged, 8.9:1, PTK T76, Turbosmart 40 BC & 45 WG, Tial 40 BV, AFR 205s 310/245, 228/228 550/550 114 Hydro, 1.7rr, Isky RLs, 4" HKS exhaust, ARC 30x16x4 IC, 8 point cage, C2 gauges, 2 step, C4 3200 stall w/ R Manual & Hurst Ratchet shifter, 17" Panasport G7s, CSU 750 & bonnet, Vic Jr intake, 3.63 gears, Corbeau Carrera seats, Custom wide body, Bomex side skirts and rear 1/4 caps, Tommy Kaira bumper. |
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#11
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Quote:
Come now Matthew, you know you want to...Quote:
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There's no replacement for displacement...No, not even a turbo. |
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#12
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Ahhhh Solid roller cam. I can hear that sweet ticking noise now. And everyone will tell you need oil cause your valves are ticking lol
Looks real good Redneck... But the distributor belongs on the front of the engine!
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R.I.P. Hypsi- Andy your one of the best people I ever had the priviledge to know. AF and the world has lost one of the truly wonderful people...
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#13
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Pardon my lack of knowledge about cams and valves and all of those unneccesary things (
) But what's the difference between a solid roller cam and..well..a normal cam i guess?
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#14
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Really not sure on what they would flow, though Tom Baum in Chicago did them. He reckoned they would be fine for up to 650hp.
You don't have to go solid roller cams to get good hp though self. We used to get 500-600hp all day long out of a small block 350 with the right combinations using mechanical roller cams. 242deg/250deg, .580/.625 lift cam, harland sharp roller rockers, mechanical roller lifters are a good base.
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You don't own a Skyline, then don't cry to me about it! 1992 Silver R32 GTR tickled to 450hp. - Sold when I left NZ in 2004 Arguing on the Internet is like competing in the special olympics. Even if you win, you're still retarded. Never confuse kindess with weakness. AF user guidelines, Please remember to abide by them ![]()
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#15
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RazorGTR, the main reason why I want to go to Aluminum heads is for cooling. Weight isnt much of a big thing for me. The aluminum heads as you may know dissapate heat much better than iron. Thus helping the fight on detonation. I'm running 10.25:1 compression now with the Iron heads... on the verge of being not street friendly.
Now some of you may point out that LT1's and LS1's have high compression and dont have a problem. This is true, but I've got a very old school motor. The LT1's and LS1's have a reverse flow water pump. Meaning the cooled water flows through the heads first before going to the block. This coupled with aluminum heads keeps detonation from not being a problem. My motor is a standard rotation water pump.. thus Heat is a problem. And before somebody asks... no you cannot do a conversion. I know.. sucks. I'm also going to buy me a Aluminum radiator and dual electric fans to help keep the temperatures way down. I want it to run off of pump gas... I dont want to have to buy Race gas. Also, the power of a tunnel ram and multiple carbs would be fun... but I'm trying to keep it all under the stock hood for the "Sleeper" effect. Self, The block is .060" meaning its technically a 388. ![]() Current Motor Specs: Blue Printed and Balanced 388ci or 6.3liters 350 4 bolt main Bored .060" Over w/ 3.75" Stroker Crank Comp Cam Extreme Energy Hyd. Cam .477"/480" Lift, 224*/230* @.050 268*/280* Adv. Dur., 110 L/C Comp. Cams Roller Tip rocker arms Dart Iron Eagle Heads 200cc Intake Runners 2.02"/1.60 Valves Edelbrock RPM Airgap Intake Manifold Holley 750 CFM Carb Double Pump Mechanical Secondaries MSD Distributor and Ignition w/ 6000rpm Limitor Hooker Headers Competition Headers The long block is advertised to make: 423hp @ 5500 RPM 437ft-lbs of Tq @ 4500 RPM Thus with Roller cam and Fuel Injection I should gain another 60-70hp. And one hell of an ego.
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2003 Chevy 1500HD - Hauler 1971 Chevy Camaro RS - Track Car User Guidelines It's important to read, like the Bible. But unlike the Bible we will strike you down if you jerk off around here. |
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