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#1
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resin molds
hi im trying to model in 1/76 scale, and i wish to try to use resin to cast small parts, could i use milliput to make a mold and pour the resin in, or would i have to use summat else? i dont wish to spend a fortune on buying supplies when i want to do 1 or 2 pieces at a time
plus seen this resin kit on ebay, is it worth buying? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOULDCRAFT...item3a7673acee also saw this one on ebay:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Polyuretha...item414d224a09 wonder if this is worth buying as its cheaper and only need to do a couple of small items cheers and thanks for any help Last edited by mbwoods; 01-21-2013 at 12:10 AM. |
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#2
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Re: resin molds
I made many parts for my 'bucket-case' Tullius (Airfix 1/24) E-Type coupe by casting pieces from the Sangyo High detail kit to replace countless missing bits from the Airfix kit. I even had to make the Dunlop style wheels. (I'm still looking for some wheel nuts, and rear light clusters)
I used good old plasticine to make the moulds, and ordinary car resin. Worked a treat...... In the pics you can see, I made the wheels, engine cam covers, airbox and carb assembly, bodged a dash and steering wheel from an old Burago toy, made the front light internal 'tubes' and printed all my own decals. Yes, I know Tullius never raced an E-Type coupe, but I liked the colour scheme. Roy. ![]()
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#3
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Re: resin molds
milliput is okay, but what i use is ooyumaru, like this: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10179829
it's a reusable silicon mold in different colors that you can reshape by dunking it in boiling water until it softens. i bought mine from a local store that sells japanese goods (funny enough, they had this stocked along with pencil erasers - they must've thought this was also a pencil eraser).
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olly olly oxen free |
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#4
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Re: resin molds
anymore help guys? i'll try using plasticine, and is automotive resin cheap to buy?
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#5
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Re: resin molds
I use Alumilite high strength 3 for mold: http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail....20Strength%203
It has low viscosity, is easy to pour, and captures very fine detail. The high tear strength makes one-piece mold possible. For resin, I use Alumilite Amazing cast: http://www.alumilite.com/ProdDetail....asting%20Resin Hope this helps. |
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#6
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Re: resin molds
sorry mate its american, im in the UK
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#7
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Re: resin molds
Get a hold of flyonthewall if you can, he knows a lot about casting resin and making molds. Taught me most of what I know (the rest I learned by trial, error, stupidity and practice).
Since flyonthewall is in the UK, I am sure he can help you source supplies, etc too.
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#8
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Re: resin molds
These are available on Amazon and eBay. Alumilite has some useful tutorials on its website.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130629334718...84.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alumilite-Su...item1c2f08e353 |
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#9
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Re: resin molds
Quote:
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#10
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Re: resin molds
even thou they cost a fortune! those 2 items on ebay only costs £3-4 each plus postage
the one with double sringe costs les than £4 inc postage, while the other one in 60g bottles costs £7 inc postage but u get more in it, just that i'd like your reccomendations on them. anyway what about moulds? someone mentioned plasticine to make moulds, i mentioned using milliput, but i think once ive made a mould, then it'll harden and i may have trouble releasing the castings from it. ive done what i needed to do, but in future if i need to make some more, i should have ideas on what to get and use, and thanks for any help here guys. |
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#11
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Re: resin molds
Quote:
my first kits were: alumilite mini cast set, and the super plastic casting set, for larger pieces ...both were excellent for learning by ...be specifically careful with your amounts to mix, and have everything ready at hand to start for moulds, the key is to not have any under hung areas, then you are forced to tear at the molds to release ....on occasion, I have learned a precisely cut line at that location, allows the mold to open for the under hung portion, but still be usable ...admittedly, my first molds were designed with in mind that one 'face' of the part would be the unfinished top area, and positioned accordingly (like the bottom side of a valve cover) then sanded/trimmed after to complete don't expect your parts to emerge ready to go IMO, there is always some finishing required later on you'll then be confident to make a 2 piece mold, for more full form parts lastly, use some solid containers to pour your mould into ...I keep old items, solid plastic trays, even small containers from the knickknack dollar store ....then when I de-mold a part, I can take the entire mold out of the tray, and allow it to flex (without tearing) to remove, and insert back into the tray, so it is held firmly in place for the next casting ...give your mold more thickness on all sides for a more stable result, mine are at least 1" thickness for support good luck! Last edited by JeremyJon; 04-16-2013 at 08:58 AM. |
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