Quick question about Passlock system.

[Maui Beach Bum]

Hi all,
I just need to know if the engine will still turn over if the passlock is active.
From what I can tell,the passlock turns off the fuel if the incorrect key is used,but there is no mention of whether the engine will still turn over.
The system in question is on a '96 Sunfire.

Thanks for any help with this question.

[jdl]

I looked at the 2.2L, starter system wiring. Yes, it should crank, even if problem with security system. You need to make sure the battery has a full charge. Any questions about the diagram, holler.

[Maui Beach Bum]

Originally Posted by jdl

I looked at the 2.2L, starter system wiring. Yes, it should crank, even if problem with security system. You need to make sure the battery has a full charge. Any questions about the diagram, holler.

Thanks for the reply,
I'm very confused at this point. I'd think a scanner that cost as much as the Snap on Solus costs would at least point a guy in the right direction. But the scanner shows nothing.
This car did run,I even drove it home from where I bought it. However,it needed starting fluid to get it started,and it wouldn't run over 3k rpm.

Now it will not run at all,and I believe that I've now burned up the starter trying to get it running.

The security light did go off for about 5 minutes,but is now back on for no apparent reason.
I must say that my living right on the ocean is not a good thing for this car. If I can find anyway of getting it down to the boat ramp its going for a swim!

I haven't a clue what's up with this car,and I've been building cars for 40 years. This is day 4 and I'm no closer to finding what the heck is wrong.

One thing is for sure, I've had enough of these GM theft protected EFI systems.

Does anyone by chance have a schematic of the passkey 1 system that they'd be willing to share?
I've found several threads on the 2nd system wiring and how to bypass it,but I can't find anything on the 1st system that doesn't use a chip in the key. I've pulled the dash out and disconnected the sensor from the IP. When testing the sensor mounted at the switch I get a reading of 301 ohms between the white wire in position #1 and the black wire in #3 and 296 ohms between the #2 and #3 black wires. These seem like good readings.
I'm just not sure which wire needs to have a resistor added in. The white #1 or the black #2. I'm pretty sure that the #3 black wire is the common,or bulb test wire. There is no small black wire in the switch harness,at least not one that makes a connection with the key sensor,or is of the same gauge as the sensor wires.
Of course I maybe preforming the test wrong. Not having any information at hand leaves me in a situation of using guess work. And this I do not like at all.


Thanks again for any help. You could be saving an otherwise nice Pontiac from a swim in the ocean.

[jdl]

You don't need a scanner for the starter. Check the starter issue first. In the diagram, the purple wire at the starter solenoid should be hot, with key in the crank position. If it isn't hot, backtrack the circuit. Could be the neutral switch or other? If you think it is a starter issue, take the starter off and have it tested. Some of the national brand autostores will test it for you.

To me there is a difference between a code reader and a scanner. The code reader will just read codes. The scanner will show live engine data, plus read codes. I don't know which you have?

I can't help you bypass the security system. Have a good day.

[FishFind]

It will crank and turn over. Sometimes will start for 1-2seconds then cut off.

[jdl]

Originally Posted by FishFind

It will crank and turn over. Sometimes will start for 1-2seconds then cut off.

If you start your own post, I think you will get more activity. I don't know your year--make--model--engine size?