Questions about Passlock I

[davidd31415]

Hi:

I'm installing a Bulldog remote starter and have learned that my 1998 Sunfire uses the Passlock I Anti-Theft system.

I can order a #791 bypass module but if it is possible to simply disable the Passlock I I would prefer to do that. If someone steals this car I wouldn't exactly be sad.

http://www.newsgroups-reader.com/alt.../art42621.html

Does anyone have comments about the procedure detailed in the above link?

I did find a thread on here that discussed disabling the system in a similar manner. I am curious exactly how this works?

If I am reading the procedure correctly, I need to start the car with the Passlock I system functioning normally, and then break the yellow wire sending the Passlock I signal to the BCM. At this point the SECURITY/THEFT SYSTEM panel light will illuminate and the vehicle can be stopped and restarted without using the Passlock I system until such a time that the battery/alternator power is removed from the system.

Is this system designed to function this way? The only reason I can see for the system behaving in this way is that it recognizes that the car was started properly and it also realizes that the system has started to malfunction so it stops using the Passlock I system all together. If the Passlock signal was simply removed while the vehicle was not running the BCM would not be able to differentiate between a malfunctioning Passlock I system or an attempt to start the vehicle without turning the cylinder....

Can anyone verify this or explain why the procedure does work?

I'd like to understand it a bit more before attempting to implement it.

Thank you,

David

[ponchonutty]

Well, I'm not sure if it'll actually work on the pk1 setup but it will on the pk2. On the pk1 the bcm is set up a little different that's why you can't just do the resistor trick to bypass them. Also, if just cutting that yellow wire DOES work if your car's battery ever goes dead (and there's a 80% chance it will because of the bulldog remote start) your car won't ever start until the security code is properly read by the bcm.

[davidd31415]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Well, I'm not sure if it'll actually work on the pk1 setup but it will on the pk2. On the pk1 the bcm is set up a little different that's why you can't just do the resistor trick to bypass them. Also, if just cutting that yellow wire DOES work if your car's battery ever goes dead (and there's a 80% chance it will because of the bulldog remote start) your car won't ever start until the security code is properly read by the bcm.

The procedure did mention that if the car battery goes dead then I would need to change the switch position to start the car. Otherwise I would think it would suggest to simply cut the wire as you stated.

What has my attention now is your opinion of the Bulldog remote start. Can you elaborate on the 80% chance of the battery going dead? I will return it and purchase a more reputable brand if I can get some information and suggestions.

Thanks again,

David

[ponchonutty]

Well, it's kind of the same with most any DIY kit you see on the shelves. A few years back Directed Electronics who is world known for their Viper, Python, and Clifford brands to name a few had a DIY kit. It was made so poorly that authorized dealers like me hated to sell it. Granted, in a way it made a little more $$ for us but it was a real PITA for us and the consumer.

I just put in a delux Bulldog kit in a '06 Equinox for a customer about 2 weeks ago. It had the 2way remote control and all kinds of extras. It was a little different to get it to work but I managed. When you go to remote start it, it'll turn everything on for about 10 seconds then shut it off then do it again then cranks the starter. I have no idea why or how to correct it. Now, the customer called me stating that when they use the remote to lock the car the car's lights stay on for 5 minutes. Again, I have no idea why.

[davidd31415]

Ahh, so it doesn't exactly work as one would expect?

I was thinking about skipping the wiring of the lights since the car is loud enough for me to know if it has started.

I became concerned for my starter after reading about how it functions.

The instruction manual states that in tach mode the device will crank the engine for 6 seconds; this is for difficult to start vehicles. When using the positive line to sense a voltage increase the unit will attempt to restart up to 4 times. The latter method did not state a cranking interval; it looks for a voltage increase from 12 to 14-15V, IIRC.

The "6 second crank" is what caught my eye. I shudder at the thought of my starter being cranked for 6 seconds. I imagine that could not be good for a starter when the car starts after a few seconds.

The manual did state that the tach mode was for "difficult to start" vehicles so I guess I would end up going with the voltage-sense mode. I'm worried here because when my engine is cold the battery light illuminates for several seconds when the car is first started; if the starter were to continue cranking throughout this time it would probably be just as bad as the 6-second crank. My alternator has been recentley replaced so the only thing I suspect that would be causing this is the battery (it has been jump-started many times). I'm assuming here that the alternator light turns on when the voltage drops below 14 or so volts...


Dave

[davidd31415]

I'm starting to wonder if I even have Passlock 1. I receive an insurance discount for anti-theft but I do not see an indicator light on the instrument panel. I am sure none of the lights that illuminate when the car is started are related to security.

I'm also curious what other methods can be used by remote starters? I discussed the starter with a few guys I work with and one of them said his alternator does not turn on until the engine has been running for a few seconds (not sure if this is true of mine or not, I'll have to watch the voltage while starting the car).

Also, what brand remote starter would you recommend? I've researched the Bulldog enough to convince myself to return it because of the burned-up starter stories alone. I did see quite a few battery run-down stories as well.

Thanks again,

Dave

[ponchonutty]

Yes, the bulldog units really suck ass. I am 100% sure you have pk1 on that car because I help DEI to rectify the problems they had on their early pk1 bypasses years ago.

It'll be hard to find something at a local store that I'd recomend as a good DIY kit. I love Compustar stuff but not sure if there's a dealer near you. Scytek stuff is pretty decent especially for the price. Directed's Valet isn't bad for the price either if you stay away from the 2way remotes.

[davidd31415]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

It'll be hard to find something at a local store that I'd recomend as a good DIY kit.

I don't mind ordering off the internet- or are some units only sold to dealers to help ensure consumers don't mess up the install?
[/quote]

[ponchonutty]

Well I know DEI and Compustar try to keep their stuff from being sold on the net but you can always find them. Don't look for the Compustar Pro stuff because you'll need their special programmer to get into all of the programming stuff.