95 LeSabre Harmonic Balancer Replacement Questions

[CarDude225]

I've just discovered my wife's 95 LeSabre (80,000mi) has a failing harmonic balancer as about 5 miles ago it has begun chattering at idle. I can also turn the pulley a little bit on the balancer, and some rubber has begun peeling off of the balancer.



I would like to ask some questions, please.

Q1: Which way do I need to turn crankshaft bolt to loosen it?

I have had to replace the HB replaced on an old 90 Buick Century twice. I believe I used a brand "Dorman" which lasted 45,000mi / 4 years the first time. I am considering to use the same brand listed here for $105 with lifetime warranty (part # 594-004).
There are also 2 grades (standard and heavy duty) of brand "Pioneer" for $120 and $150 each, and have to be special ordered.
Q2: Is there any reason why I should not use a Dorman?

Q3: What is the trick with the starter I can use to help loosen the crankshaft bolt?

Q4: What is the torque spec to tighten the crankshaft bolt to?

Thank you very much for any insight.

[CarDude225]

I just answered Q3 with this youtube video. This is a must-see for anyone preparing to change their HB for the first time!

[HotZ28]

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BTW, the torque for the balancer bolt is 110 Ft. Lb. + 76 deg. (Approximately 150 Ft. Lb.)

[CarDude225]

I've just completed the HB job on my 1995 Buick Lesabre Custom. The following are some notes I think everyone should be aware of. I am providing this write-up for the benefit of everyone, since I have not found much detail in any single post during my research into how to change the HB, a job I had once attempted on a 90 Buick Century, then gave up when, in retrospect, I had simply used an incorrect puller.

1. Remove the serpentine belt.

2. Jack up the front of the car and support on jack stands.

3. Remove right tire. Remove splash cover to reveal harmonic balancer.

4. Confirm keys have been removed from the ignition.

5. Removing the harmonic balancer bolt:
I first attempted to rotate HB bolt counterclockwise using an electric impact wrench and a 15/16" socket that was multi-sided. I later used the engine starter to turn the bolt head as shown in this must-see Youtube video. DON"T USE A MULTISIDED SOCKET; the multisided socket began to spin on the head of the HB bolt eat at & subsequently wear down the bolt edges which is not good for obvious reasons! DO NOT USE A RACHET. Use a breaker bar instead. I used a Craftsman rachet and quickly DESTROYED it from the forces involved with cranking the engine.
I ended up using a 15/16in HEX (6 sided) 1/2in drive impact socket. THIS CAR'S HB DOES NOT TAKE A 28MM SOCKET contrary to what I thought based on reading a post that did not indicate the LeSabre year! That post had me on a wild goose chase looking for a very rare-to-find 28MM socket!
I continued to try to use the impact wrench to try to loosen the bolt. I used this in combination with PB blaster as well as a MAPP gas torch, with no success.
I then attached a breaker bar to the 15/16in socket, and wedged the bar against the frame. I used an 18in breaker bar that was a bit longer than I should have used, and it reached dangerously close to the radiator. I had to exercise care with the positioning of the handle of the breaker bar as not to destroy the radiator or nearby hoses. A 12in breaker bar would have been better suited for this job. I used a long 2X4 to apply downward pressure on the head of the breaker bar, while I was safely out of the way, and I had my helper (wife) crank the engine with short bursts. After a few tries, viola, the bolt came spinning out of the crankshaft!
NOTE: Make sure to have your helper remove the keys from the ignition if you are going to put your hands in there between cranks. Have your helper SHOW YOU THE KEYS!

6. Removing the HB from the crankshaft:
Autozone was able to loan me a suitable bolt-based puller, model 27019. However, as described in other posts, the puller kit did NOT contain the right bolts. You will need a qyt of (3) 1/4in X 3in fine-toothed bolts (opposite of "course"). Last night, after determining that Lowes was closed, and Home Depot was out of them, I finally chased them down at Ace Hardware this morning. I found and used stainless steel. You will also need 3 suitable washers.
I oiled the holes with spray lubricant and attached the puller. One of the holes had some metal structure of the HB partially in the way, and so I held my breath when I inserted one of my bolts crooked into the hole, using a wrench to turn it. I would come to find, however, that it held just fine.
I worked the pulley off of the crankshaft using the center bolt provided in the puller kit. The HB came right off.

7. Inspect the crankshaft for debris (there was none), and clean it thoroughly. I applied motor oil to the crankshaft head and the new HB orifice.


8. I lined up the HB with the key on the CS, and it slid on a bit.

9. Getting the HB pushed all the way onto the CS:
I did not have any tools to push the HB onto the CS as has been suggested by the instructions and other posts on the internet. I did read, however, that some people simply use the HB bolt to drive the HB onto the CS. I decided to take that risk, once again holding my breath, but it did pay off. As I turned the HB bolt, it pulled the HB smoothly onto the CS. I also started the car several times during this process to check for HB wobble, and I was pleased to find that there was no wobble.
I could "feel" when the HB was in its final resting place because the HB bolt got hard to turn, and I confirmed visually that the HB belt pulley was lined up to the engine accessories (alternator, water pump, etc.).

9. I then attempted to torque the bolt, but the CS spun turned with each of my attempts. So I removed the flywheel cover (easy), and used vice grips to hold the flywheel in place. Be sure not to pierce the oil pan!
I torqued the bolt to the 111 ft lbs I read it should be. Then I turned the bolt perhaps 45 of the 76 additional degrees that I read should be done. I was a bit weary of turning the bolt a full additional 76 degrees. I hope that decision won't come back to bite me.

10. Put the belt back on, confirm no wobble and proper operation. Put splash cover back on. Put RF tire back on. Remove jack stands and lower car.
ALL DONE!

Here are some more pictures

If you look closely & carefully at the old HB in this picture, you will see the rubber brittle and separating from the outer ring.




What a mess, but it is all done now!

[Jrs3800]

Good work... Hard to tell for certain, but it looks like that 95 has the freak of an L27 Tuned Port 3800... 95 being a very odd ball year for it...

[HotZ28]

Thanks CarDude for the detailed feedback of this procedure, we may move this thread to our "Buick Tips & Maintenance Procedure" forum. BTW Don,, the '95 LeSabre only had one engine option, which was the (L27 Tuned Port 3800). In addition, '95 PA Ultra L67 retained the same Series I L27 nomenclature. 1996 was the first year of the Series II VIN-K engine in either of these cars.

[Jrs3800]

What I meant was that the 95 L27 was different... It was in its last year of production, as the new series II had been placed into production already while the series I L27 was still being produced..

Most of the L27's for 95 used the Series II 2170 Light Weight crank, Series II oil pan and gasket, Powered Metal Forged main caps... And due to the lighter crank GM shaved the weight pad off the top of the connecting rods... Just a very interesting engine for 95...lol