No wipers, A/C blower, power windows, no TC lockup, and ABS light on

[jdmccright]

Went to take my truck ('95 C2500) for it's annual emissions test the other day. I had replaced the battery beforehand because I left the underhood work light on and drained the old one DEADDEAD...could not be revived.

When I went to get in, the remote locks didn't work, nor the remote start (both are Viper brand aftermarket install). The truck started okay but I did not have any power windows, the A/C blower didn't run, no windshield wipers, and the ABS light was on. The power locks at the door worked. Concerning, but still driveable, so I went to get tested.

While driving, the brakes were fine but ABS did not work when I tested with a sudden stop. Also, the torque converter would not lock up at highway speeds.

I'm guessing a bad ground but don't know where to look for it...hints? Any other possibilities? Thanks for any help!

[777stickman]

Maybe some fuses blew on the batt change, so check those 1st. If it cranks and starts fine then most likely not a batt grounding issue. Try disconnecting the batt grnd for a couple of hours and see what happens. I don't have a '95 wiring schematic so I'm in the dark to help with what powers what.

[Bob B]

Hi,
If your truck is like mine, (97 K1500) then there are two cables on the positive post that often don't make good contact. I had to remove the battery post bolt and really clean the wire ends. I also replaced the bolts with new ones from the auto parts store. While there I saw and bought a special small ratchet wrench for the little bolt heads, 6 sided 5/16 so I could tighten them better.
When it was failing, I could grab and move the cables to get it to work for a short time.
Bob B

[jdmccright]

I didn't check all the fuses, but I did check the wiper fuse when I noticed it not working and it was fine.

I did take a wire brush to the negative post bolt, but could stand to do the positive one, too, I suppose...yes, it has two cables. Doesn't make sense for some stuff to work and others not. I'll have some time tomorrow to look into it more.

Any and all help is appreciated...thanks!

[777stickman]

With the ign sw in the "run" position check all fuses on both sides for 12v using a test lite.

So, this all happened with a simple batt change??

[jdmccright]

Did the fuse block check with ignition on and got no power from the circuits affected. So I'm thinking it is a fusible link or the ignition switch itself.

If it is the ignition switch, can that be replaced while keeping the keys? I recall it being two separate yet connected parts, but would like confirmation.

I don't think it was the battery dying itself that caused this. My guess it was the attempts to recharge it with the battery charger that did it in.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

Did the fuse block check with ignition on and got no power from the circuits affected. So I'm thinking it is a fusible link or the ignition switch itself.

If it is the ignition switch, can that be replaced while keeping the keys? I recall it being two separate yet connected parts, but would like confirmation.

I don't think it was the battery dying itself that caused this. My guess it was the attempts to recharge it with the battery charger that did it in.

the ignition switch is just that an electrical switch.

the key lock cylinder is linked to the electrical ignition switch..this is a separate part..common failure at this age the switch..

locate switch make sure connections are secure not burned up ..then replace switch.

[jdmccright]

Pretty expensinve for "just an electrical switch". But yes, it is old...16 years and 204k miles. Guess I can add this to my garage "to do" list. Thanks.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

Pretty expensinve for "just an electrical switch". But yes, it is old...16 years and 204k miles. Guess I can add this to my garage "to do" list. Thanks.

last time I got an ignition switch it was 30.oo ...not for your truck ..

how much for your vehicle ?

[jdmccright]

It's about $116 new at the parts stores...wouldn't trust a used part from a yard in this case. Hopefully, I can time it with a good coupon to bring it down $30-40. Thanks.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

It's about $116 new at the parts stores...wouldn't trust a used part from a yard in this case. Hopefully, I can time it with a good coupon to bring it down $30-40. Thanks.

what I have seen is the springs break in the switch. contacts then do not wipe properly.

[jdmccright]

Got more time to dive into this and got to where the switch is loose but will not come out/off from where it connects just under the key lock. Any advice on how this comes off? I can pry it about 1/4" away before something springy keeps it from coming out...I don't want to pry too hard.

[EDIT] The key lock is still in the steering column, as is the upper column shroud, as some sites say you don't have to remove it and others say you do. I'd rather not fool with it if possible.

All I know is that it's the rainy season here in MD and having no wipers or ABS is bad....everything else not working is just a nuisance.

[jdmccright]

Turns out you need to remove the key lock because there are two screws that hold the switch in place and one is hidden by the upper column cover. Trying to move it out of the way isn't enough. To be continued....

[jdmccright]

Got the new ignition switch installed a week or so ago and was not the problem. All the fuses look good, so it leads me to believe it is a fusible link. But I can't see them anywhere in the engine compartment. Are they covered up by the wiring harness sheath?

FWIW, I pried open the old ignition switch. The springs looked fine but the contacts did look oxidized. At least I only paid $45 for the new one.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by jdmccright

Got the new ignition switch installed a week or so ago and was not the problem. All the fuses look good, so it leads me to believe it is a fusible link. But I can't see them anywhere in the engine compartment. Are they covered up by the wiring harness sheath?

FWIW, I pried open the old ignition switch. The springs looked fine but the contacts did look oxidized. At least I only paid $45 for the new one.

The fuse box gets power from battery threw a fuse link wire.
If it was bad you would not start or run or have power on any fuses.

First confirm good 12 volts to all fuses and also threw all fuses in fuse box.
Like check both sides of fuse for good voltage.
Maxie fuse no. 5 feeds ign switch for wiper and AC/heater and blower.
Make sure it has power on both sides at fuse box and is feeding power to ign switch and threw it.
Auto zone online used to have some wiring diagrams.
Maybe still do.