Turbo Upgrade

[NhGreenTeg]

I am getting a 98 eclipse GSX, and am putting on an HKS downpipe, n-tercooler,and exhaust.
MY questions are what kind of exhaust do you reccomend, I was thinking HKS or Apexi, and is there an easily installable turbo upgrade, i.e a larger turbo

[turbo2nr]

i would recoment the hks hiper exaust because you are gettting the hks downpipe, i suggest that you get a b.o.v. and also get a boost controller like a apex-i afc, as for the turbo upgrade a greedy td-o6 is a bolt on upgrade for the 4g63 engine jus make sure its the 16g turbo not bigger because i think you might have to modify your exaust mainfold to fit something bigger then a 16g,

also hears another route you can go instead of upgrading the turbo take that money and put it into modifying you fuel system and enhance your ignition.. with that plus the added air form a intake and intercooler and a free flowing exaust you can turn up your boost to around 14-16 psi on the stock turbo, because even if you upgrade to a td-06 yes you will make more power but you wont bw making the full pontential of the turbo because you dont have proper fuel mangament and ignition system.. the choice is yours

good luck

1

:flash:

[Spectrum]

T28 would be the easy way to go for a 2G, true bolt on

[turboawdgsx]

Originally posted by sr20det2nr
i suggest that you get a b.o.v. and also get a boost controller like a apex-i afc, as for the turbo upgrade a greedy td-o6 is a bolt on upgrade for the 4g63 engine jus make sure its the 16g turbo not bigger because i think you might have to modify your exaust mainfold to fit something bigger then a 16g,

Dude what are you smoking? Please don't just dish out random stuff you've read. The Apex AFC isn't a boost controller, it's afuel controller. All he would need for boost control is a simple 50$ Manual Boost controller, the digital one is the AVC-R.

NhGreenTeg: Get an Apex N1, those have nice mellow tones. Or you could get a Thermal. Either way I recommend a 2 1/2" DP, 3" cat-back exhaust with a test pipe to eliminate the cat, this will help prevent some boost creep.
You're going to need to upgrade your stock BOV from a 1g T/E/L b/c your stock one leaks above 15psi. I'd recommend getting a stock turbo from a 90-94 T/E/L. Those are bigger than the stock T-25 you would have & the TD05-14b has been proven to run 12's. LOW 12's!!!!!!! If you've got any more questions, ask away.

Rob

[turbo2nr]

you learn something new every day

thanks

i ment the avc-r but yes teach me more about dms tunning need to get away from sr20det the madness!!

[zer0bot]

don't get too far away from that wonderful sr20det motor

[turbo2nr]

wonderful 4 drifting not for the 1\4 mile

but i wont.....

[DirtBike1128]

can the 14b really run 12s, especially low 12s? im totally not raggin on you, i dont need proof, but like that just seems too good to be true! does the car need to be gutted or somethin? lol

[kjewer1]

I ran a 14b to mid 12s in a full weight 2g, lightly modded. Stock injectors, stock pump (dont try that at home kiddies), stock intercooler, etc. One guy in a well prepped 1g ran 11.84 on it. Its a good turbo, ont only because it has potential but still spools very fast, but because you can get them cheap. I paid 125 for mine

I wouldnt recomend getting a 3" catback but 2.5" DP just because of boost creep. It should be taken care of the right way, by porting, rather than making a compromise on the DP size. Also, with a full 2.5" ehxuast, I still had boost creep to 22 psi on a 14b, so porting will have to be done either way. I would avoid the N1 catback just because its flimsy flex sectoin is known to fail. I know I sound like a broken record, but the single most expensive part in building a DP is the flex section. Leave it to the "name brand" companies to skimp in that area. Its also the most imortat piece of the DP I would avoid name brand exhaust parts altogether, unless you can confirm before that it does NOT nexck down to the stock cat flange size. You'd be surprised how many people will buy a DP that shrinks down to the stock cat, and expect to see some gains. Same goes for people that buy 3" catbacks that have stock 2.25" flanges on them to bolt up to the stock cat. Thats fine, but when you try to go full 3", its going to take some cutting and welding. Its important to think about this stuff right from the start. I always recomend buying the full catback all at once from a DSM specific vendor. The 2.5 or 4" turbo backs from Buschur Racing are great examples of what a DSM exhaust should be. Thier 2.5" has run low 11s, but I wish I went 3" to avoid having to buy it twice. I made my own 3" modeled after the bushur exhausts for cheap money, using a RRE downpipe. I'm rambling again..

Here is my humble advice, and you can take it or leave it. I always recomend maxing out the stock turbo, then making a small initial upgrade, to something like the 14b. ITs much better to learn how to tune on a turbo that isnt quite as likely to blow the motor up when you make mistakes (and you will). Screwup on a 20g or larger and you'll know it. Also, avoid the bling blang name brand parts. Take the money you save to buy more parts. Youre will be faster, and your wallet will be happier. Also, start datalogging and tuning early on. In fact I would get the logger and AFC (or DSMlink if you are going that route) while you are still on the stock turbo. The earlier you start to tune, the better.

That being said, its all about airflow. Do the full turbo back exhaust, and an intake. I ran 14.3 on pump with these mods. Next do a hard UICP (now that the stock airbox isout of the way) and put a 1g BOV on it (40bucks, good to 20-25 psi). By this time you'll need a clutch. These mods will max out the stock turbo. Upgrade the pump, and if you cna afford do a 255 with an aftermarket regulator and get it out of the way. A 190 will run low 11s though on race gas. I would then do a small turbo upgrade, along with a GOOD FMIC. Again, avoid name brand at all costs. I can point you in the right direction when you are ready to buy, but to get an idea, check out www.victoryperformance.com, and www.indyracecores.com. 24x10x3.5 is the smallest one should get. Big enough to run 10s on. Mod right, and mod once. Thats the trick to doing this in a cost effective manner. After doing fuel system upgrades, youre ready for any of the usual big turbos.

This is a good general plan for any 2g owner. Hope it helps.

[DirtBike1128]

wow, i copied that shtuff down for when i get my dsm! how much POWAH do you think youd make with that plan you spelled out (in the 4th paragraph)?

[kjewer1]

For a 2g, 14b will be good for low 12s, and a 16g could potentially do 11s. Just remember the major factor in how much power you'l ake is the turbo. EVERY other thing you do is to support your turbo choice