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  #16  
Old 05-04-2002, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
But how would I get 12v of power to the LEDs, since they can't run off 3.2v? I need them to get 12v of power when they light, but to ONLY light when my alarm LED wire sends a signal to them.
Let me try to answer your question according to the simple but clearly understandtable schematic CXHatchback drew (great job CX !!). However, CX made a tiny mistake on the description on the schematic. The terminal on the "coil" side that connects to the alarm LED should be the negative side instead of the positive.

A relay in this case is connected in series with the 3.2V alarm LED and used as a singal (or power) to electrically charge a coil of wire.

When the coil wire is electrically charged, it will create a magnetic field that pulls down on the "common" terminal metal plate and connect to the normally open terminal which carries negative (ground). This way it will provide ground to the 12V LED that connects to the battery voltage and turns on the LED.



Do you mind telling us what is your project with the LED?
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  #17  
Old 05-04-2002, 06:42 PM
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You must have missed this part, I covered that.

Quote:
Originally posted by CXHatchback
This is assuming that the alarm LED is constantly grounded and is connected to a power source onyl when the alarm is activated. IF it's the opposite, that is, it's constantly connected to the positive end, and is only grounded when the alarm is activated, then you have to switch the terminals on the coil. Instaed of grounding it, connect it to 12V+, and the other end connect to the 3.2V LED negative.
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  #18  
Old 05-04-2002, 07:07 PM
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CX--You beat me on the post right after SilverY2KCivic ask about the explaination.

There seems to have a problem on the power supply to the project LED that silver is working on.

Quote:
This is assuming that the alarm LED is constantly grounded and is connected to a power source onyl when the alarm is activated. IF it's the opposite, that is, it's constantly connected to the positive end, and is only grounded when the alarm is activated, then you have to switch the terminals on the coil. Instaed of grounding it, connect it to 12V+, and the other end connect to the 3.2V LED negative.
In this case the relay will be connected in a parallel circuit and will only allow the 12V LED that you are working on to light up when the alarm LED lights which will turns on and off the power to your project LED (flashes).

Acctually the flashes will occur on my theory also (assuming your alarm LED is the constantly connected to ground type).

If you want your project LED to have constant power when you turn on your alarm, you should not connect it to your alarm LED wire. This will require another way of wiring and different voltage of relay.

Let us know if you need constant power to your project LED when the alarm is activated.
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  #19  
Old 05-04-2002, 10:54 PM
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I think it all depends. I know what you're saying, but sometimes there are flashing LEDs. We just have to find out if it's a flashing LED or if power is being turned on and off to the LED. Most likely it's a flashing LED and the schematic will work well. Has he tried it yet?
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  #20  
Old 05-05-2002, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CXHatchback
I think it all depends. I know what you're saying, but sometimes there are flashing LEDs. We just have to find out if it's a flashing LED or if power is being turned on and off to the LED. Most likely it's a flashing LED and the schematic will work well. Has he tried it yet?
Ok, screw it, it'll be better figured out if I just tell what it is. I'm trying to hook up a pair of washer nozzle LEDs to flash with my alarm. These LEDs are meant to be constantly on, and not flas that I know of. But any LED can be made to flash, because I used to have a pair of screw LEDs attached to my mesh grill, and they flashed with my alarm (but worked when tapped into my alarm LED line) and they were also made to just be on constant, but they flashed just fine. I have a Clifford G4 alarm, so I dunno how the LED for it works, weather it's constantly on till the signal is to it, but when my alarm is off, the LED is off, and when it's armed, the alarm LED blinks. Wait, so that means it DOESN'T get a constant signal. LOL! I'm such a doof. Ok, so it's only constantly on when I have my alarm in valet mode, but that's irrelivant since the washer LEDs would be activiated when my alarm LED is activated to light up. So alarm LED blinks when armed, off when disarmed, and constant on (no blinking) when in valet mode. Damn I hope this info helps you all out to help me figure this mofo out. :alien2:
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  #21  
Old 05-05-2002, 09:45 AM
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That's perfect. So you need to use regular LEDs (not flashing) for your washer nozzle things, and since the alarm LED is regualr too, just connect them like the diagram shows and you should be fine.
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  #22  
Old 05-05-2002, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CXHatchback
That's perfect. So you need to use regular LEDs (not flashing) for your washer nozzle things, and since the alarm LED is regualr too, just connect them like the diagram shows and you should be fine.
Cool then, thanks d00d!
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  #23  
Old 05-06-2002, 03:51 PM
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It would be really cool to get an inverter and somehow hook it up to one of the lights so they blink like a railroad crossing.

I'll have to figure that out
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  #24  
Old 05-06-2002, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 93speed
It would be really cool to get an inverter and somehow hook it up to one of the lights so they blink like a railroad crossing.
That's not an inverter you want, it's a relay. Or possibly series of.
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Old 05-06-2002, 07:43 PM
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I just used the word inverter to keep it an original idea

I'm in an electronics class at school so I'm sure we could figure something out.
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  #26  
Old 05-06-2002, 10:16 PM
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CXHatchback:

I sent you a PM< but not sure if you got it or not.

For the relay that I need to get, do I need a specific kind, or type, or will any 4 prong 12VDC automotive relay work for this? Thanks.
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  #27  
Old 05-06-2002, 11:41 PM
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I already replied to your PM, you don't need a 12V relay, you can't use it. You need a 3.2V relay, or something close, that matches the voltage on the alarm LED.
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  #28  
Old 05-07-2002, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by CXHatchback
I already replied to your PM, you don't need a 12V relay, you can't use it. You need a 3.2V relay, or something close, that matches the voltage on the alarm LED.
Ok, I'll get the one in the link you posted up then, I was just thinking 12v relay because of the 12v line that will be going into it. But you're the expert here.
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2002, 11:09 AM
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Hehe, cool. Yeah, as far as I know, that should be perfect.
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